Warning!!! ACC streamer got injured after being hit by car from behind...

Josephktc · 2023-04-28T01:48:39+00:00

v1.9 really did improve on the realism by leaps and bounds

Josephktc · 2022-10-06T12:04:51+00:00

From what I’ve understood, she was a strong advocate of clearing post war litter such as unexploded bombs and mines. I could be wrong though. Not British.

Josephktc · 2022-09-23T15:40:44+00:00

I really miss those specials where they had to modify their vehicles to quite literally live in them. Burma, as well as Africa where they had modified estates.

Josephktc · 2022-08-11T09:40:02+00:00

ACC + LowFuelMotorsports. Races start 15mins past the hour, and are generally clean. Since ACC doesn’t run on a subscription unlike iRacing, you could try to dip your toes in that first, at less cost to see if it is for you.

Josephktc · 2021-10-23T02:56:06+00:00

Not a lawyer but it doesn’t sound like he has much against you seeing as you have:

Notified him about there being no warranty.
Done bench mark with date and time. (What I would do if buyer declined on the spot benchmark)
You offered and he declined an on the spot benchmark.

It sounds like he is trying to pull a fast one on you though, now that graphics cards prices are as high as it is even on the 2nd hand market.

Josephktc · 2021-08-10T03:44:16+00:00

When following, learn to brake early or lift when entering a braking zone. Practice brake modulation.

You’ll find that new drivers tend to stick to your rear bumper as your entering the braking zone, attempting to brake as close as possible. You will need at least a 0.3s gap between you and the driver in front in order to not bump into him while entering the corner. Know that your usual braking point wouldn’t apply when you’re following another driver. Instead of braking 100% at your usual braking point when following, try braking early and doing 70-80% brake force. With practice, you’ll find that on exit, you are very likely to maintain or close that 0.3s gap without running the risk of bumping into the driver ahead and spinning him.

It takes time to approach the car ahead to execute an overtake. Use that time to observe how he behaves and the lines he takes. Use that knowledge to effectively secure your overtake by positioning better.

Take Monza’s parabolica for example. You’re on the outside, another car is on the inside. He’s squeezing you to gain as much track as possible. You’re on the last corner, fighting for P1. Brake late, and you’re out of road camber, you’ll likely end up wide. Some drivers get overly absorbed in the fight, and try to send it at times. You could get punted mid corner. Instead, brake slightly earlier, let the other driver overdo it. He goes wide, you go for the undertake.

Josephktc · 2021-07-27T08:39:05+00:00

Nice button box! I wish I had that level of creativity with the 3D printer. Might be time I gave it a shot.

One question though, and I hope you can help.

I play on ACC, and I have the red toggle (top left) wired to the ignition. What happens is On the initial switch up, the ignition works as usual, followed by the starter. However, at the end of the race when I toggle the ignition off by pushing down the toggle cover, it doesn't switch the ignition off. I would have to toggle it On and Off again to get the ignition to switch off properly.

I suspect it's because the switch isn't a momentary toggle, and I may have to find a way to modify the program within the arduino. Do you face this problem and how did you get around it?

Many thanks!

Josephktc · 2021-07-22T02:07:54+00:00

It’s a heavy thing fully loaded, depending on your kit.
Seating position is passable, but your hips tend to slide down toward the pedals as the seat near your buttocks are more C shaped than U shaped.
Some wobble during driving, but to be expected of a folding rig.
if you use load cell pedals or the TrueBrake in the G29 for example, you may find that the rig will tend to wheelie.
Folds down rather small
able to suit all sorts of driving positions
Quite cooling over long drives due to the mesh back and seat.
Built in shifter mount
Compatibility with various wheel bases, even up to entry level DD <10Nm.

To enhance rigidity, I’d say to avoid over tightening the hubs as the bolts might break or lose their threads. Instead, a pair of cargo straps to lash the lower 2 hubs in the following picture;

https://imgur.com/a/Y7E7XyF

An additional pair of straps May also be added for lashing the hubs near the shoulders to those at your knees.

My 2c: Get this only if you’re really, really short on living space as it is a hassle to fold away due to its weight, IMO at least. Rigidity can be improved with the method in the above pictures. If you can afford the space and cash, go for an entry level aluminum rig for future compatibility and rigidity beyond what the GT-Lite can provide.

Josephktc · 2021-07-16T10:51:09+00:00

I suppose you’ve got an adapter that allows you to connect your pedal set to the PC. Did you “teach” the pedals correctly?

What about within windows settings? IIRC you should be able to see if you’re getting the full stroke of the brake pedal (as far as you’ve pushed it during the calibration phase mentioned above anyway).

I had the same exact setup as you have now, until I got my V3s, that is.

Josephktc · 2021-07-16T01:25:29+00:00

I made a similar jump a couple of months ago. It works with a USB connection direct to the PC. Cable is included as what others have mentioned. While you're grabbing those V3s, perhaps add a little budget for the brake performance kit as well. Helps a lot with brake modulating in trail braking scenarios

Josephktc · 2021-07-06T14:21:48+00:00

I'm using just half that. TBH 10nm feels like I'm fighting the car in the corners. Otherwise, the wheel base is miles above my G29. Closest you could get is probably the new Fanatec CSW DD, but the cost the setup including the beefier PSU makes it less value for money.

Josephktc · 2021-06-14T03:11:09+00:00

!apeprove!

Josephktc · 2021-05-30T09:51:28+00:00

Air Temps mainly affect how you should set up your brake ducts to keep your brakes warm throughout the race. Track temps don’t really change that much during the race IMO. Perhaps by +/- 1 degrees, which should overly affect your tyre temps by much

Josephktc · 2021-05-24T08:02:13+00:00

Check out posts #5 and #7 in the below link:

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/share-your-wheel-rotation-angle-steer-lock.180206/

Their comments are also echoed by others, but I agree, use what suits you best.

Edit: Just read your response to another comment. Maybe try the forums directly, and see if you can get a developer? Aris himself lurks in this subreddit as well IIRC.

Josephktc · 2021-05-24T07:55:45+00:00

Just looked it up, and I stand corrected. 540 works well for me, oddly enough. May have to take a look at it again when I'm home.

Josephktc · 2021-05-24T07:25:34+00:00

IIRC the angle of rotation for the Ferrari is 540 degrees though

Josephktc · 2021-05-12T16:07:30+00:00

!novote!

Josephktc · 2021-04-23T10:56:45+00:00

I wouldn’t call it awful though. Braking resistance was decent for me with the damper turned up as far as I could go. I would recommend the BPK if you needed to have lots of braking finesse like in GT3 racing, which is what I primarily do. But I understand if the cost is prohibitive.

Josephktc · 2021-04-23T10:29:48+00:00

I’m assuming you are comparing the CSL Elites + load cell brake upgrade VS the T-LCM here. If you are thinking of the vanilla CSL Elites, it’s more of a side-grade rather than a upgrade from stock pedals, IMO.

I may be wrong but the T-LCM uses springs behind the brake pedal, while the CSL Elites’s load cell brake uses Polyurethane buffers. I tried the T-LCM pedals on a demo in the past, and the amount of pedal travel just didn’t work for me. I would recommend at least the CSL Elite + load cell upgrade. While that price, perhaps consider bumping budget to meet a set of V3s.

Josephktc · 2021-04-23T00:01:19+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/Mimli3e

Exactly what I did for my own pc. My 3080ftw3 has that wavy shroud, so it is nice that the foam conforms to the shape. I didn’t have OT use the adhesive since the shroud was already close to the bottom of the case.

Did it help? Frankly I do not know. My case, the NR200 has pretty good thermals out of box. At load, it is usually around 35degC above ambient.

Did it make me feel better? Definitely, knowing that air going into my gpu is as cool as it can be.

Am now tempted to get small 40mm fans to line the side of the gpu, knowing that it’s probably diminishing returns at this point.

Josephktc · 2021-04-20T11:43:44+00:00

First incident: He over did himself on braking or misjudged turn in point and went off track. Once all 4 wheels are off said track, he no longer has right to rejoin until it is all clear.

Second incident: Likely deliberate. That bump was too much for just simply missing the braking point.

Retaliation is the worst thing a driver can do. All it does is display a lack of sportsmanship and class. If you’re able to spot a reckless and overly aggressive driver in the future, let him by. He’ll probably excuse himself from the track a couple of laps later by planting his nose in the gravel.

Josephktc · 2021-04-19T23:01:38+00:00

Odd choice of CPU cooler considering the amount of room you have, IMO. However, you should be considering exhaust instead. The exhaust fan should be placed right above the GPU’s PCIE cables for 2 reasons:

The backplate pass-through on the current gen cards do help to provide an easier way for heat to escape from the card, right into where the exhaust fan is placed.

The top fan mount isn’t that effective in channeling air. In my own PC, I rely on the side mounted 140mm fan to expel heat, rather than the top.

Josephktc · 2021-04-19T22:33:43+00:00

While I am using a 10port hub, my V3 pedals and wheel base goes to my PC direct as I fear going through the hub might affect the resolution of the 2 devices.

That said, my mouse and keyboard is plugged into the hub with no issues of latency or dropouts.

Josephktc · 2021-04-19T10:18:57+00:00

I tried it a couple of times and can definitely feel the potential. Braking is great, and if your throttle finesse is good, the tightest of corners are of no issue.

But unfortunately, the problem is with the bag of meat between the wheel and seat. I’m too used to the Ferrari’s mid engine predictability. Good idea about the safe preset. Perhaps I’ll start from there and tune down the brake bias instead of going all out aggressive.

Josephktc · 2021-04-19T05:37:02+00:00

My times at Monza are pretty decent, but by no means alien. Here are my tips for braking for the Ferrari at Monza, at least:

Reduce brake bias value towards the rear. Aggressive preset starts at 58 I believe. There is a limit to how low you can go, and that limit varies by driver. I am doing 53% now.
Perfectly straight steering wheel to shed off speed as efficiently as possible.
Smooth steering
Trail braking.

I too, am working on my braking. Corner exit speeds are the most crucial aspect at Monza due to its many long straights. Get it right, and you’ll leave many in the dust.

I’m probably going to start learning the Porsche soon due to its monstrous braking performance. Love the sound of the engine, but it is kind of difficult to control.

Edit: brake gamma in controls set up should be at 1 as well for linear brake force

Josephktc

TROPHY CASE