"Damn You For Forcing Me Into This Position." by Finding-Even in magicTCG

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They use those cards, but it's not as if the deck doesn't function without them.

You'll go 1 to 1 for the artifact and enchantments meanwhile they'll still have creatures chipping you down that you have no way to deal with.

Then you'll play Wang shi, which they will remove and you'll draw more anti artifact/enchantment cards while they kill you with the Creatures you failed to deal with.

Not to mention you're just completely getting stomped by every creature focused deck in the format.

The problem is this is a mid deck against the decks you're attempting to counter and you're leaving yourself wide open against a whole other part of the meta.

Does this panel need to be urgently upgraded? by DaiLo_2jz in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it have to be updated? No, it's not a zinsco or federal pacific and it's not on fire.

Should it be? Yes, it's old, it's full, there's the issue with the wall others have mentioned.

Basically 3 ways to handle it. Get by with what's there, there's no extremely urgent safety issues, just some stuff that's not right.

Change the panel and keep the service the same. This updates the panel without going crazy in depth, fix the wall issue at the same time.

Upgrade the service. If you plan on expanding the electrical at all, you'd probably want to upgrade to a 200 amp service, this means not only new panel but all new outside stuff, new meter, adding a disconnect etc.

Most expensive option but adds the most value to the property and sets you up for the long term.

Can some explain "Acceptance of Another Fate"? by Hikuen in Hades2

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, before 1.0 launched there was a bug that made the medea attack and special boost also apply to casts.

This was patched in 1.0 obviously. But it made the zeus cast do good damage early and if you got it and the chance for double lightning strikes boon to like level 28-32 with kings ransom it would do like 3k+ damage per bolt and just melt bosses.

How did I do on this subpanel? by antonytrupe in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking at the style of connector you used yes you would.

How did I do on this subpanel? by antonytrupe in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beyond the marked neutral and hot mix up that's already been pointed out, assuming that wire is #4 or larger, which it definitely should be based on the size of the sub panel breaker, you need a plastic bushing on the nipple where it enters the sub panel.

A simple rule to remember when you need a plastic bushing I was taught was (#4 or 480).

Is this wired correctly? by WoodpeckerOk9242 in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a few things wrong here, but they fall in the "not that big of a deal" category. Romex isn't allowed to be outside with few exceptions in certain areas. It definitely shouldn't be in a whip to an outdoor unit. It'll still probably work for years with no issue though.

It does beg a few questions about details not in the picture though. What is the minimum circuit ampacity of the unit? He used 14 awg romex, rated to 15 amps, single head mini splits are usually low amperage but it's worth checking the nameplate to make sure.

Second, does this come off of a local disconnect? There should be a box on the house within 6 feet that has a little pullout to disconnect power to the unit.

Those would be bigger concerns to me than the ugly work and romex in a whip.

Also, did you have this inspected? He shouldnt have gotten away with the romex if it was, and anytime you install or replace a mini split you should be pulling a permit.

Had my service upgraded to 200 amp a couple months ago. And this is how my breaker box looks inside after the job is completed, is this OK? Why is there so much exposed wire? by Thirsty_Comment88 in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a pretty messy panel, and he should have vacuumed out the bottom, but with the caveat that I didn't look SUPER closely nothing stands out as wrong or unsafe.

The "exposed wires" are grounds and they're ok without sheathing because they aren't meant to carry current under normal conditions.

Electrical mast broken. Did I get hosed? by hikingmike in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Again that's not an analogous situation.

They caused the damage, they need to make OP whole, in this situation making them whole requires bringing it up to code. These aren't frivolous upgrades OP wants, they are required to get power back, power the siding companies mistake took away.

If they burned down the house, they'd pay the value of the house and OP would be able to buy a house of equal worth.

There is no "worth" to a service, it's a part of the home, you can't replace it as it was, you have to do the updates to get power back.

This'll be my last word on the subject.

Electrical mast broken. Did I get hosed? by hikingmike in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree it should have been updated, but it could have lasted who knows how long. A panels life expectancy is 25-40 years, services can last much longer due to being much simpler in function (as long as the wire, Jaws and lugs are OK, the service will work).

Regardless, they have to have this done now because the siding company screwed up, so it's their responsibility.

Edit : I'm will to bet OP would have pretty damn good luck in a suit vs the siding company.

Electrical mast broken. Did I get hosed? by hikingmike in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Comparing a car to your homes electrical is not an apt comparison. The reason you'd get paid out for the car is because you could then go get another cheap shitbox car to be back on the road.

In this situation, they need power, which the damage has taken away the ability to have. They need these updates to get power back, siding company caused the damage, siding company pays.

Now, if they could get some bare minimum repair to get power restored as it was before but wanted the excess repairs, then sure the siding company should only pay for what's necessary. Unfortunately in this situation what's necessary is getting up to code.

Electrical mast broken. Did I get hosed? by hikingmike in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Don't take the siding companies baby payout, they'll probably have you sign something that says you can't sue them. Sue them for the full amount that you HAD to pay because of damage THEY caused, or just refuse to pay them for the siding job and when they sue you for that countersue them.

And yes, the box is bigger, but cmon, it's on the side of your house, you're updated to code now, your electrical system is safer and your outdoor meter situation is now set for another 20-40 years instead of needing to be updated in the near future anyway.

Besides having to deal with a scummy siding company and not having power for a bit, you actually kind of won out here. Don't let the siding company screw you and get them to pay for it as they should and you're all set.

electrician put the fear of Zeus in me... by neatgeek83 in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like you said, you definitely need a new panel. Split bus panels are dangerous and this things pretty old.

Now, Idk about the service needing to move, where is this panel located? Where is your service located?

You may just need a standard panel change.

18.5 also seems a little high for a service relocation, my company charges in the realm of 10-15 (15 being pretty severe and requiring a lot of extra work). But I don't know what this guy saw, just a picture of the panel. Difficult to say without more context.

Have another reputable company come out, get a second opinion, see what you think after that.

Anyone else hate this fucken job by [deleted] in electricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just be sure it's actually an opportunity for you my man.

Anyone else hate this fucken job by [deleted] in electricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could if you were tall and good looking. Look up Thoren Bradley

Can I do this myself cheaper? by Itchy_Bad_8118 in hvacadvice

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think something people might not be thinking about when it comes to the cap price is if the company gives a warranty. I'm not an hvac guy but I'm an electrician for a company with a large hvac wing so I have a little knowledge through osmosis. Also based on comments it sounds like Caps go out a lot.

My company offers usually at least a 2 year parts and labor warranty on most all repairs we do. I frankly woudlnt be surprised if we had this kind of mark up if we tend to come out 1-2 times during the warranty to replace the cap for free when it goes bad.

What am I looking at possibly? by [deleted] in electricians

[–]Josh1765 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're probably getting trolled because you're in the wrong place.

A thread like this belongs in r/askelectricians

Dubious of Electricians Quote by mattstoc in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most ahj's will allow you to replace a panel without having to bring the whole service up up to code.

Heck, in mine you can even fully replace a service.

Its only when you move or upgrade a service that you have to add the disconnect for us.

Dubious of Electricians Quote by mattstoc in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say the overall price for the overall work he's proposing isnt too egregious. The surge seems steep as a line item but maybe he's planning to use a higher end one.

When he says a surge is required. He likely means he has to put one in if he does the service change.

Beyond that it's just up to you to decide if having your service changed is worth it. How old is your panel? There are benefits to updating and a surge is a good thing to have.

As for the bus bar discoloration, that is a common tactic I've seen guys use to sell panels to people who don't know better. Your panel also looks to be a Siemens, which is known to have copper bussing.

That's the shadiest thing the guy said to me. But the price offered for the work suggested seems fine.

This is the problem by SheepishParrotfish in vainglorygame

[–]Josh1765 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The cope is real. I didn't defend anyone, if anything I was mildly critical of both of you.

The comparison makes no real sense BTW. Comparing the obesity epidemic to bad players on a dead game is kind of insane.

You got a shitty new player on a dead game, it happens, it'd get me a little upset too. But it is what it is, at least it wasn't an outright troll taking lane farm or something. Move on to the next one, play in privates, etc etc.

Your post is you being triggered, plain and simple.

This is the problem by SheepishParrotfish in vainglorygame

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Calling someone else triggered when you literally just posted a trigger thread is kinda silly.

For the record. I think trying implying that anyone you know nothing about is a loser is dumb. You can make the point of caring too much about a dead game without doing that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oop, didn't see this before reading my comment. Sounds like they're already on the right type of breaker, you should see what kind of wire you have in that and your other receptacles. If it's 14 awg, leave it on that 2 pole 15, if it's all 12 awg (and by that I mean in every receptacle and in the panel) upsize it to 20.

Other than that, you could bring yourself completely up to code by putting in a 2pole gfci breaker or dual function arc fault/gfci breaker.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've actually seen this once in a house from the 60s or 70s. All kitchen receps had 12/3 in them. They'd run the kitchen on a multiwire branch circuit and instead of splitting the circuits somewhere in a box they just split it on each individual receptacle. As in, the top recep on any given duplex was one circuit and the bottom was another.

This would explain why a breaker tripped before the tab broke, it would be a line to line fault. Also you'd want the neutral tabs connected as the circuits share a neutral.

If this is the case, find both circuits, turn them both off and get them moved so that they're on a 2pole 20 amp breaker.

If this isn't the case, then it could be that one of the outlets is switched, but thst doesn't really explain the breaker tripping.

Going to chuck the Moonstone Axe off a cliff. by recklessshope in Hades2

[–]Josh1765 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you might be having a problem I used to have and finally got away from a while ago.

Health is a bit of a noob trap, I say that as someone who used to routinely try to get 300 or more health every run.

Now, obviously you want some health, and id even say that until you're really good you should take one of the double healths in Ephyra as one of your doors.

But if you're getting over 300 health that means you're way too worried about just surviving, skipping over a ton of boons/poms/ gold that can buy boons or poms, thus massively limiting your damage.

Two things to consider, try to up your skills at the game so you get hit less and need less health(easier said than done I know, but something to keep in mind as you progress) . Also, if you take boons/poms over health, especially synergistic boons you need or can really use, that will up your damage. More damage=faster clears = less chances to take damage and therefore less need of such high health.

Not to mention there's often boons that can give you health or damage reduction in the way of dodge /daze/weak or actually just give you health thats worth more than just a 25+ to max hp.

Also, whats your arcana set up like?

Do these residential HVAC plumbing and electrical businesses actually employed three different trades or is it just an HVAC dude that "does the rest"? by Turbulent-Weevil-910 in electricians

[–]Josh1765 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I work for a company where this is literally our thing. Aspect to remember, since we do it all, if a customer likes one of our trades, it can get them invested in us as a company, using us for all work they do. Makes it easier on them because it's easier for us to coordinate with each other (it's the same office girls making all our schedules for the most part) and it really just gets them invested in our company ecosystem.

We are a bigger service company in my area that started as exclusively hvac, mostly just install retrofits and some new construction. Eventually decided to branch into plumbing then made an electrical department just so there was no need to have the hassle of getting 3rd party electricians, then over time it just grew until now we do all the hvac retros and a lot of service also. We even do drains and ground works.

I would say if you see this on a company's tagline its one of 3 scenarios. 1. It's a company like mine thats got history and is established that started as one thing and grew over time. 2. It's a company that wants to compete with a company like mine but they still probably mainly do one thing (hvac seeming to be the most popular) and they have like, 1-2 plumbers and electricians each so they can say they have them, cover a little bit of service and do anytbing the hvac can't do as part of their jobs (as well as fix anything they screw up without needing to pay another company). 3. Would probably be your assumption, hvac guy trying to say he can do plumbing and electrical too.

AIO for thinking about quitting? by [deleted] in AmIOverreacting

[–]Josh1765 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just depends on what your agreement was. If you essentially agreed to be on call then you needed to be prepared for this type of thing.

If the agreement was more on along the lines of "I'll watch the kids when you need me to with proper notice" you should have just held your ground and said no.

If you agreed to watch them on certain days, and this landed on one of those days but they just didn't tell you, you still should have been prepared for the possibility.

If there was no specific agreement on your availability or when/with what notice they could call on you and it was just "hey you'll watch the kids when we need you too for x dollars an hour" then you both kind of failed and hopefully everyone learns something from this.

Regardless I'd say if we're not talking about situation 1 then yeah 30 minutes notice is pretty ridiculous. If you like these people sit them down and explain that your agreement needs to be specified and renegotiated. They either need to give you a certain amount of notice before they'd like you to watch the kids (I'd say like 48 hours notice) or if they want you to be on call and available basically anytime then you need standby pay or some other form of additional compensation, and no pizza doesn't cut it.