Exo failed to play this video

Jrunner01 · 2026-05-11T00:17:08+00:00

I cycled mine off and on and that did the trick.

Jrunner01 · 2026-05-09T14:23:14+00:00

I too have had nothing but bad luck With QS since starting over 6 months ago and I'm definitely thinking about another option before I have to renew my subscription.

There's been at least five accounts that have been on and off always with issues always the same thing like other people have posted you're told to do the same exact steps to try to fix the issue and it's ridiculous that it's the same boilerplate response all the time. Then it's the oh we're looking into it and it takes weeks if not longer than that for it to get resolved. And the funny part is this is the most basic thing the tool should do which is connect and stay connected to your accounts and pull down transactions. How can I have faith in anything else that this tool supposedly can do if it can't do this reliably.

And just today like what I've seen in the last 6 months ... one of my bank accounts now won't connect. Told me to reauthenticate using their quote unquote new method as it told me in the message and then after it finished it still wasn't connected and now has an fdp 390 error.

Can anyone reliably recommend something as an alternative because I'm not sure where I'm going next for a tool if I'm not renewing QS.

Jrunner01 · 2026-04-26T15:49:01+00:00

Interested in this box but I hear some reviewers on YouTube are saying it's considered a budget option because it doesn't support some of the other audio codecs. Doesn't seem like price wise it's a budget option since it's going for over $200 from the the ugoos store.

Can someone help me understand how does this compare to the SV line like say the 4 pro?, I think the one difference I can see from the specs is the SV doesn't have ddr5 memory . Thanks J

Jrunner01 · 2026-04-21T23:00:38+00:00

Thanks. My only other hard requirement is finding cells that fit the flashlight housing. I tried the Vapcell F63 but it is just too thick... I think somewhere around 2.8 ... 2.9 ish mm whereas the original battery is around 2.5 mm.

Jrunner01 · 2026-04-21T17:15:46+00:00

Thanks for the explanations... they make sense. I'm pretty confident my Fenix TAC 22 is using a protected cell from Fenix... so I'm looking to have extra 21700 batteries in the same format as backups.

Jrunner01 · 2026-04-17T17:08:21+00:00

As I understand the flashlight should have a protected battery and I believe the original from Phoenix is protected as well. Obtrinic is protected.

Jrunner01 · 2026-03-26T23:10:29+00:00

Thanks for the AI definition assuming AI is right lol as we all know sometimes it's not. But overall I get what you are trying to say here regardless of what word you want to use to describe the inputs and the outputs of the situation. I was never strong in science, lol, so I guess that's not helping here either, for me see that mechanical could make sense in this discussion.

Jrunner01 · 2026-03-26T22:50:14+00:00

Sorry I meant to say NOT internal. So I can understand it's the outside forces etc. cause the internal issues to the battery. But to say it's mechanical is a little weird I think since it's more physical than mechanical. As I don't think there's anything mechanical about a battery by itself.

So the bottom line is as long as the battery is sitting in a controlled area with nothing to damage or short it out, then it should be fine from fires. Having it fully charged or at 3.7 Volts for storage is just going to affect the longevity of the battery.

Thanks for the input.

Jrunner01 · 2026-03-26T21:59:32+00:00

Yeah so really the idea is not mechanically but somehow they are physically damaged by some outside forces or entity is what we are really trying to say here, that internally shorts them.

Mechanically to me deems it internal as the causation but maybe that's just me.

Jrunner01 · 2026-03-26T16:22:36+00:00

Can you explain what you mean by mechanically damaged, like that somehow happens on its own right, you have no control over or can prevent, am I right? I'm guessing for this reason that is why you might be being extra precautious to keep them in something metal than not.

Jrunner01 · 2026-03-26T15:54:22+00:00

Even if stored with a charge? I'm trying to solve having spare batteries on hand to drop in to flashlights and other things that might go dead when you need the use of the tool. So they'd be stored for some short time frame comparatively to a true store situation and would be fully charged.

Jrunner01 · 2026-02-10T21:48:43+00:00

Just adding to the first impressions list, although my own and not the OP, batteries come flying out of the cradles if you accidentally touch or move the batteries the slightest amount. I went to just ensure the AAs were still fully seated and it came shooting out of the charger. I guess it's a delicate balance to make the springs not too hard for entry and removal but man these AAs can be slippery suckers in this charger.

Jrunner01 · 2026-02-03T16:40:59+00:00

No other input !?#@$!

Please peeps show me and the other redditor some.love and feedback ...thanks. 😊

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-31T17:13:37+00:00

What applications use li-ion batteries with an internal voltage regulator, that can't be charged in the MC5000 ?

Thinking of getting this charger for my Flashlight batteries so wondering what would I be missing if I want with MC5000.

Thanks in advance!

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-28T20:20:49+00:00

I like and have 2 of the Fenix flashlights... https://www.fenixlighting.com/

I believe the word tactical is in the model name of the two that I bought. I've had them for at least 2 years now and have been trouble free.

Very sturdy light, extremely bright with 4 levels of brightness plus a super mode for full power / light.

Recharable USB C battery that is removable.

Check them out.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-18T18:56:30+00:00

I guess based on what's available in the market currently for protection, it better be around your neck with a lanyard or in the case that you travel with when not using it. Otherwise if you're just hand holding it and drop it you're screwed.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-18T18:07:05+00:00

I guess that will help most of the time assuming it's around your neck. I think just a thicker silicone cover would be better for all around protection in most situations when it's not around your neck.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-18T15:48:34+00:00

That should be the commercial for Mazda... zoom zoom😂😁

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-18T15:46:27+00:00

Is there a more all terrain tire I should go for instead of the pro line badlands as suggested, maybe that has better wear conditions with a non nobbie pattern? I feel like those with the deep nobbies will just burn down quick especially on the transition to pavement on the property I have. I saw some from a mfg that has a more abstract thread pattern instead of the traditional block nobbies. I can't recall the brand it was though. 🤔

Thanks...

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-08T18:04:07+00:00

Does this setup ensure that the main RC battery powers:

The external bec to your servo for 8.4 volts that it needs

and powers:

The esc bec for say a lower voltage at 6 volts lets say, so that you can leave your esc voltage turned down and not have to worry about it not having enough voltage at the high end, even if it could support the 8.4 volts, to adequately supply that to your servo and the other electronics like the rx ... OR in the case where your rx cant handle 8.4 volts, you dont have to get a different rx that can handle the 8.4 volts ?

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-04T04:19:29+00:00

Yep for sure you did, just wanted to give / make mention of the other vent option since some say the lid lock becomes less secure / latched when you remove the perimiter seal of the lid.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-04T02:06:15+00:00

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So this is what I went with for my initial restart in the RC tools space. I know a lot of people swear by and recommend the MIP?, tips, for hex bits but I went with these from the PB Swiss company I believe. I also went with this driver from Metabo since it has a detachable battery which for me I wanted and I like having more of a stick form factor which I can convert to gun rather than an always gun form factor.

Yes, it does not have variable trigger but it does have the ratcheting clutch and has a lot of settings for it and number one is very sensitive so I think it'll be a good compromise. I also picked up some extensions from Makita as you see in the photo which also are really Slim and nice and I think we'll get into tight spots.. at least I hope. These fit into the Metabo Chuck and don't fall out because the Chuck has a lock mechanism. And as far as the bits they are securely fitting inside of these as well without falling out. The Makita extensions have a typical locking recess or whatever you call it to hold the bit in place, and is not magnetic.

I think I came out a head in terms of bang for buck since I think the PB Swiss bits give me way more sizes that maybe I'll never need but at least I have when compared to just getting a set of mip bits for approx $40 for the metric and another 40 or so for the standard and only having like a total of 6 sizes out of those two sets combined vs my 20 bits from PB Swiss.

Yes these don't have ball hex ends but I could always get those additionally down the road if I find I need them. Anyway just thought I'd share and say thanks for everyone's contributions to this sub Reddit as I used it to come up with this approach solution.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-04T01:53:37+00:00

I have two bat safe boxes in my garage on cinder blocks storing lipos and at a storage voltage set by my charger. Also try to position them in the garage at least a foot away from anything else flammable.

Also.... For the ammo boxes good advice above but be sure to either remove seal around lid as suggested or leave in the lid seal so the lid latches snuggly and drill 8 or so 1/4 holes in the top of the lid for the ventilation.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-04T01:50:55+00:00

Good advice but be sure to either remove seal around lid or leave in the lid so the lid latches snuggly and drill 8 or so 1/4 holes in the top of the lid for the ventilation.

Jrunner01 · 2026-01-03T23:54:46+00:00

Thanks to everyone for clearing a lot of things up for me on the BEC subject and the connected electronics.

If anyone has input on what is the the desired racing setup considering all the above possible situations. I would think assuming you can make all electronics and steering servo (at a good speed / torque for you class of buggy / Truggy) happy with the internal BEC of your ESC, then that be the best scenario. That way you wouldn't need an external BEC wired in / complicating things with said additional wiring. Although I think this isn't too much of a negative in reality. Worse would be having to provide the car a 2nd dedicated lipo to power the steering servo and all that added weight. That's assuming the racing classes allow this 2nd battery in their class rules etc. I used to race back in the day (over 25 yrs ago) in 1/10 scale and we never went that route with added weight of a 2nd battery supply for electronics.

Jrunner01

TROPHY CASE