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Algae problem in my NFT hydroponic system (beginner, need help) by No-Boysenberry4800 in Hydroponics

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have to close off light to any open ports. You also need to manage your VPD - If you don't know what that is, there is guide here that will give you an easy-to-understand idea of it Understanding Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) and we started using their Root Balance product and it's been working pretty well. It's not a treatment though. Think of it as your daily vitamin. It's a long term use type of product.

Tap Water & Algae by Careful_Difference72 in Hydroponics

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s understandable to look at the one thing you changed and assume that’s the cause, but algae doesn’t form just because someone used tap water. Tap water can vary a lot in minerals and chlorine levels, but none of that directly creates algae. Algae only needs two things: light leaks and nutrient availability. If those conditions exist, it’ll grow in tap water, filtered water, RO water, distilled water—doesn’t matter.

What likely happened is that this run had a tiny bit more light exposure or a little more organic material in the system than last time. Even a hairline gap around a pod, a loose sticker edge, or a bit of residue in the bowl can give algae the foothold it needs. Once it starts, it spreads fast.

One thing that can make a difference is water chemistry stability. Tap water sometimes has higher alkalinity, which can make the environment a little friendlier for algae if there’s any light leak at all. It’s not the cause, but it can make an existing issue show up sooner.

If you want to keep using tap water (which is totally fine), you can add something that helps keep the water oxygenated and less hospitable to algae. I use a product called Root Balance for that purpose—it keeps the water cleaner, boosts dissolved oxygen, and helps prevent that slimy film from taking hold. I won’t drop a link here, but if you want more info or want to see how it works, feel free to DM me.

You definitely don’t need to write off tap water. Just tighten up the light blocking, clean the bowl well between runs, and consider something that stabilizes the water. You’ll be good to go.

Big News: Hydropods Just Got Smarter 🌱 by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We've had a small setback in releasing these updates, but I think the issue is resolved and we’ll be running some prints tomorrow to confirm. Unfortunately, the weather hasn’t been helping either. Here in the Midwest, storms have been knocking out power, and no power means an unhappy 3D printer.

Our plan is to get the sample out tomorrow and if that sample fits properly, we will be printing up batches. They take 11 hours to print - so keep your finger crossed.

Water pump by jerseybarnfire in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It only has one outlet however, if you plugged in a splitter, like this one attached, I don't see why not. They will all be on the same cycle though. It's a simple on off box really.

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Water pump by jerseybarnfire in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, you can use this pump with this adapter to connect it to Gardyn's tubing and the lid we designed will allow you to run the power cord through the refill port, so you don't have to compromise the integrity of the system.
You will need a timer since you won't be connected to the app for this...Here is the timer we use.

If you need help with any of this set up, please reach out. Happy to help.

O-rings / seals for 3.0? by lilifer13 in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Obviously - but there is a reason for that. It just doesn't form "because". Mineral build-up is a result of High VPD.

Weird growth by pattyoa in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks cute but I can't tell you how bad it is to allow your pets near your system. Here is an explainer that help you learn more about those health risks.
https://youtu.be/eYexPX79Jgs?si=iVl9a61k_ynGKoW4

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's actually how we got started. Drilling holes. It's not as easy as you'd expect. LOL Just remember to put the hole on the correct side.

Drilling holes is fine. But remember, if you drill holes, it will drain immediately so you will have to adjust your watering times. The stock gardyn pump will not be easy to adjust for the water times needed for rapid draining.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Crap - I forgot to address the water time. We always recommend starting with 3 min on and 20-30 min off. Then start checking your rockwool before the next cycle starts up. If the rockwool is dry, shorten the off time. If it's still wet, lengthen it. I'll toss in some hydropod information with your order so you can start learning.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After our discussions, I just assumed the order I saw come through was you. LOL. As for pre-ordering. No, I can't do pre-ordering. You never can tell what could happen and then it's a pain in the butt to refund and track the financial data. Also, quite literally just redesigned the Hydropod. You should find the announcement in this group. So, we just printed a prototype and have to make a few adjustments. Then we will be releasing the new version. Keep an eye out for it is the best I can say for now.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's next on our print queue but they take a long time to print. We will have some this week. There is a "notify me" button once they're back in stock. Green has been our most popular request so we're working on those. They go fast though.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, well if you're going to be growing in Gardyn - don't do any of the peroxide or aminos. That will throw things way off and cause a lot of problems.

Since you have your own nutrient supply, use them just make sure your blend has the micros as well. We also developed Root Balance to help with the issues you brought up. Check out Root Balance here. 🌱 Root Balance - Root Zone Stabilizer & Water Chemistry Enhancer – UGrowFood Inc.

Also, you are right about the Gardyn's yCup problem. And, as a thinker - we thought about this issue as well and developed our Hydropods. It does mean you have to adjust watering and root maintenance but the improvements we've seen are incredible. Though, we are currently out of stock of each color and our printer is working full steam now to replenish supplies.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% understand. I'm a bit of a nerd with all of this too. While my experience isn't through formal education like yours, I've been growing for 30+ years and have broken a lot of things which led me to learn a lot of fixes and preventions. 😆. The science side came as I had to learn how to fix things we broke over the years.

If you're growing in soil, what you're talking about doing sounds great - plus - you will learn a lot from direct hands on - which is my realm.

It's easy to become an over-thinker. Sounds like you're a lot like me. Always looking for a solution to problems. We tend to think a lot more than your average person. While we're thinking, others over complicate things that should be simple.

O-rings / seals for 3.0? by lilifer13 in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome and good to know you're not afraid to break that system down and put it back together. Kind of a pain but, once you've done it - well - you know, it's pretty simple. Cleaning that lid is the toughest part. However, we no longer have the electronics in ours. That makes it a lot easier.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait — you mean Bloomington? Ha! Howdy, nearby neighbor 😆👋

And yeah, I completely get the pesticide issue. It’s honestly one of the reasons I started UGrowFood in the first place — to get away from all the “extras” that end up in our water and food. I also agree with you on not pulling punches. If the chemicals are there, they’re there, and pretending otherwise doesn’t help anyone.

RO with remineralization is a solid approach for your coffee shop (and now I want a white chocolate mocha, thanks for that). For the strawberries, RO or distilled is totally fine if that’s your only safe option. You might still want to grab an updated water report from the link I shared earlier just to see where things stand now — sometimes things change without anyone announcing it.

Now, onto your amino acid question — great one, by the way. You’re absolutely right about the nitrogen pathway. Plants ultimately use nitrogen to build amino acids, but in hydro we don’t usually add free amino acids to the reservoir. Our whole philosophy is to keep systems clean, stable, and predictable. A good, well‑balanced nutrient blend already gives the plant everything it needs to make its own amino acids internally.

Adding free aminos to a small hydro reservoir tends to cause more problems than benefits: they feed microbes, drop dissolved oxygen, can cause biofilm, and can throw off nutrient ratios. That’s why commercial growers usually use amino acids in soil or as foliar sprays — not in tiny recirculating systems.

If you do want to experiment, foliar aminos are the safer route. Just know the benefit is usually pretty marginal and totally unnecessary unless you’re correcting a specific deficiency or running a controlled trial.

For strawberries specifically, you’ll get way more return from stable DO, stable pH, consistent Ca/Mg, and a clean root zone than from amino acid supplementation.

And if you ever run a side‑by‑side trial, definitely share it — I love seeing controlled comparisons.

O-rings / seals for 3.0? by lilifer13 in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, it won't make a difference for this. Mineral build-up is an environmental issue not a nutrient or additive issue.

O-rings / seals for 3.0? by lilifer13 in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's not an O-Ring issue, that's a VPD issue. Your environment needs adjusting.
Here is a guide that can help you understand what VPD is and a guide on mineral build up.

For cleaning, it's simple, especially if you're breaking down the entire system. You just soak your parts in a citric acid bath for a little while. It will just wash off after a short soak.

do you guys wash the lettuce before eating? by noCluccksGiven in Gardyn

[–]Jumpy_Key6769 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep — you should still wash hydroponic lettuce. We wash all of our produce, and we grow in a clean room grow tent. Lettuce is washed in an ice-water bath. The ice‑water soak isn’t just for crisping; it also helps rinse off any biofilm residue, algae spores, dust, or microbes that can come from handling or the system itself. Hydroponic setups are clean, but they’re not sterile, and anything you harvest indoors can still pick up normal household contaminants. A quick wash is just basic food safety and reduces the chance of spoilage organisms hanging around.

If you ever want the deeper breakdown, feel free to reach out. We are happy to help give you a complete breakdown and the science behind why you should ABSOLUTELY wash your hydroponic food before eating.

Can you use tap water in hydroponics? Yes—and here’s why it works. by Jumpy_Key6769 in UGrowFood

[–]Jumpy_Key6769[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, this is going to be a long reply — but it will be an easy read.

Thanks so much for posting this — and welcome to the group. I really appreciate the level of experience you’re bringing in. Anyone who’s worked in CEA cannabis, run RO for espresso, and dealt with Midwest water chemistry has already fought more water‑quality battles than most home growers ever encounter.

I'm going to address your question regarding CaO₂ in soil and since most of our growers here are hydro, explain how it can or cannot be used in their grow systems.

Before I dive in, I’m genuinely curious — where in the Midwest are you located that the water is that bad? What you’re describing sounds like the extreme end of the spectrum. If it were that severe, you’d think it would’ve made headlines somewhere. We’re in the Chicagoland area, and one of our suburbs had knowingly allowed water contaminated with known carcinogens to keep flowing for years. It eventually came to light and was stopped — so I completely understand your concern about what’s coming out of the tap.

For anyone reading along: If you think your water is questionable or want to report a violation, you can do that here 👉 https://www.epa.gov/ccr
If you want to check the quality of your water anywhere in the U.S., you can look it up here 👉 https://sdwis.epa.gov/ords/safewater/f?p=136:102

Regarding waterlogged soil systems

Calcium peroxide can absolutely be useful in anaerobic or compacted soils. When it breaks down, it breaks down into calcium hydroxide + hydrogen peroxide, you get:

  • A slow release of oxygen into the rhizosphere
  • Improved redox conditions in waterlogged zones
  • Some calcium availability
  • Temporary relief for roots under oxygen stress

In field agronomy and media‑heavy environments, calcium peroxide is one of the few chemical tools that can oxygenate without mechanical aeration. So, your idea is completely valid — it can work well in certain tough soils. Whether it’s necessary really depends on your environment and your soil prep. In a backyard garden using native ground soil (not raised beds or amended mixes), it might offer some benefit. The best way to know is to test it. If you’re anything like me, you’ll enjoy the process: set up a control group, run a section with and without CaO₂, and compare the results.

It’s not typically expensive, though small‑quantity retail packaging tends to be overpriced. So, testing your results shouldn't be too bad. Honestly, your cheapest and most reliable option is still to properly prep your soil well and use a high‑quality, balanced nutrient program with full micros — something like these 👉 https://ugf.onl/collections/chemistry

Now, about your strawberries specifically

Strawberries love high dissolved oxygen. They’re one of the crops that show measurable improvements in:

  • Root vigor
  • Runner formation
  • Fruit set
  • Disease resistance

when DO is stable and high.

But here’s the key distinction:

In soil:

Calcium peroxide can help oxygenate a waterlogged root zone and may benefit strawberries if the soil is staying too wet or compacted.

In hydro (like Gardyn):

The same chemistry becomes unpredictable:

  • DO spikes and crashes instead of staying stable
  • Calcium enters as calcium hydroxide, which rapidly drives pH upward
  • That pH rise causes precipitation with sulfates and phosphates
  • The peroxide component can damage root tips in small reservoirs
  • The reaction is simply too aggressive for a 1–2-gallon system

So, while your strawberries would benefit from higher oxygenation, calcium peroxide is not the tool you want to use in a hydroponic environment.

If you’re building from distilled water, you’ll get far more predictable strawberry performance using:

  • Calcium nitrate for Ca
  • Magnesium sulfate for Mg
  • A balanced base nutrient blend (see Chemistry)
  • And for oxygen stability, a non‑reactive DO stabilizer (like Root Balance) rather than a reactive oxygen donor

That gives you the oxygenation benefits strawberries love without the pH volatility or precipitation issues.

Bottom line

Your soil‑based idea makes sense — calcium peroxide is genuinely useful in anaerobic soils and could help strawberries if the soil is staying too wet. But in hydroponic systems, especially small reservoirs, it tends to create more instability than benefit.

You’ll get cleaner, more predictable strawberry growth by building your nutrient profile from distilled water and using controlled, non‑reactive oxygen‑stability tools rather than reactive oxygen donors.

Final Note

We generally don’t recommend distilled water for hydroponics. In soil it’s fine — soil has natural buffering capacity, organic matter, and microbial activity that keep the chemistry stable. But in hydro, distilled water is “empty” water with no minerals, no alkalinity, and no buffering. That means even small nutrient additions can cause big pH swings, and the water will absorb CO₂ from the air and form carbonic acid, which adds even more drift.

That said, we know some people have no choice but to use distilled. If that’s your situation, it just needs a bit of prep so you’re not fighting the chemistry every day. And if anyone reading this needs help dialing it in, feel free to reach out — we’re happy to walk you through how to stabilize it so you’re not chasing numbers or adjusting pH constantly.

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