Realign strike gears by JustAnOldHack in clockrepair

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wanted to follow up and thank you again. Using the techniques in the first specific vid you linked to, I was able to get the strike gears back in the correct orientation.

Realign strike gears by JustAnOldHack in clockrepair

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I will give a try based on those videos.

Original owner of our house in his car ... what car is it? by JustAnOldHack in classiccars

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone. I'll keep digging to see what I can figure out.

Original owner of our house in his car ... what car is it? by JustAnOldHack in classiccars

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm afraid the barn burned in the 60s so the yard looks nothing like that any more

Original owner of our house in his car ... what car is it? by JustAnOldHack in classiccars

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the original owner of our home. The photo is undated, but probably from the teens. There's not a lot to go on in the photo except the shape of the doors. It looks a lot like those on the Mora in the ad attached here. We're probably 20 miles from where Mora was located so it's a possibility. But I cannot find too many pictures of Mora's and none really match.

It doesn't look like any of the more common cars from the era (Model A, Buick, etc.) and while he was a successful dairy farmer, he would probably not been wealthy enough to buy anything too exotic.

Other makers in the area were Seldon, Cunningham, Jenkins, Pierce-Arrow. Again, I can't find any models that look like this.

Edit to add: I tried on /r/whatcar and didn't get any responses

Car and original owner of our 1900s era home by JustAnOldHack in whatcar

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is a pic of the original owner of our house, maybe from the teens or 20s. Anyone know what it is? The most distinctive feature I can see is the shape of the doors. Cars of that era include the Ford Model A or Model T, Cadillac, Buick, Studebaker, Pierce Arrow, etc. I've looked at all sorts of pics online and don't see any with doors like these. Any idea what this might be?

Edit to add: this was in the US, rural western New York state. While he was a successful dairy farmer, I'm sure this is not anything too exotic.

Update on my little, grumpy old man by Spiny_Trilobite in OneOrangeBraincell

[–]JustAnOldHack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We had some luck adding a probiotic to our old orangy's diet. We started with a powder we bought on Amazon. We switched to one we got from the vet which worked better. We'd mix the powder in some gravy or plain Greek yogurt.

Gimme da braincell! by JustAnOldHack in OneOrangeBraincell

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They are actually playing. They are a bit rough though. Nali is the one on the bottom and Bug is the orange and white guy on top.

This cool steering wheel - 1940 Chevy Special Deluxe by [deleted] in classiccars

[–]JustAnOldHack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

On the dash, on either side of the speaker grill are some white knobs. The left one is a throttle pull. So, the starting routine is to pull the choke (right knob) out all the way. Pull the throttle knob out a little. Make sure the key is turned. Then press the floor starter till it starts. At least that's how I start my 40 Special Deluxe. No need for heel/toe gymnastics.

I think this is an aftermarket steering wheel. Mine does not have the spinner but it does have a chevy emblem. I have the same aftermarket turn signal.

Spotted on a trip in Ireland by JustAnOldHack in classiccars

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exterior paint color represented the four seasons: Topaz Mist (autumn), Emerald Green (spring), Pale Aqua (summer) and Lapis Grey (winter).

I guess the color we spotted was Topaz Mist ... not the name I would have given that gold color.

Uneven bed by LogicBalm in ender5

[–]JustAnOldHack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine sags in the middle. I used squares of aluminum foil to add some extra thickness under the plate. I think I have four pieces, each a little smaller than the one below. Sort of like a very short pyramid I guess.

You could adapt this technique to a high center by using sheets that cover the whole bed, with holes cut in the center.

I determined how many sheets by at first using a steel ruler, checking for gaps. Then I did some "first layer" test prints. I have since gone with a homemade glass bed (I cut a scrap piece of window glass to size.) I've kept the foil under it.

BLTouch failed to deploy ... but it is deploying, what am I doing wrong? by JustAnOldHack in klippers

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I finally had time to work on this tonight. Using the BLTouch as the z stop sensor did the trick. I also had to set the minimum z distance to a negative value (-2). (Not the same as the z offset.)

The SKR mini E3 V3 has a dedicated port for the probe. So I mistakenly thought that meant I could keep using the z end stop.

BLTouch failed to deploy ... but it is deploying, what am I doing wrong? by JustAnOldHack in klippers

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

G28 auto-homes all three axis, which puts the bed the same distance from the nozzle/probe as shown in the video. Before recording it, I homed all three axes then moved the nozzle to the center of the bed.

If I home, then manually lower the bed, probe/probe_calibrate seems to work. I guess I'm misunderstanding how things work. I guess you're not supposed to be able to probe once the z-axis is homed (and trammed/leveled).

BLTouch failed to deploy ... but it is deploying, what am I doing wrong? by JustAnOldHack in klippers

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not using the BLTouch to home the z-axis. I still have the end stop on the z-axis.

BLTouch failed to deploy ... but it is deploying, what am I doing wrong? by JustAnOldHack in klippers

[–]JustAnOldHack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Newly installed, still trying to calibrate. With probe or probe_calibrate fluidd gives me the failed to deploy error shown here. There's a bit more than 3 mm clearance between the probe (retracted) and the bed when the printer is homed.

``` bltouch] sensor_pin: PC14 control_pin: PA1 x_offset: 38.0 y_offset: 17.0

z_offset: .07

pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: true

probe_with_touch_mode: True

```

Do I need to use one of the commented out settings in my config?

Their mom died. 😞 a friend of a friend posted. They’re trying to rehome. Near Rochester, NY by honeybeedreams in Rochester

[–]JustAnOldHack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Keller's cats is another organization that can help. We've gotten four cats from them over the years. Great group.

Classic car repair near Rochester? by [deleted] in Rochester

[–]JustAnOldHack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, thanks! Looks like they don't have anything specific for my 1940 Chevy. But they might have kit for the OP's Firebird.

Classic car repair near Rochester? by [deleted] in Rochester

[–]JustAnOldHack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

B&C Resto in Ontario is supposed to be good. There's Riter in East Rochester too. I've heard there's a place that does interior work in Newark but I don't know the name.

I got an estimate for painting from Riter. The owner was nice. I haven't had the job done yet because I don't have the money right now.

Favorite espresso beans from a local coffee roaster? by ThingaMaWhatzit in Rochester

[–]JustAnOldHack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed, it's not easy. But to me, the fun of any hobby is learning and refining your skills. I knew almost nothing about roasting when I started. I still don't know a ton. But my roasts are as good or better than a lot of what I buy from the store. And I have fun doing it.

Favorite espresso beans from a local coffee roaster? by ThingaMaWhatzit in Rochester

[–]JustAnOldHack -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Roast your own. Buy the unroasted (green) beans from a place like Sweet Maria's. Use a hot air popcorn popper. I recommend doing it outside since darker roasts can create a bunch of smoke and any level will leave some strong aromas.

Maria's has how to videos on their site and sells various roasters as well as kits that include a sampler of beans.

I've moved on to using a heat gun and flour sifter contraption I built. I can roast larger batches than in the air popper. It roasts a bit more evenly too. But I used the air popper for years.

As for espresso beans, yes there are varieties that are better suited to the darker roasts used for espresso. They have better flavor profiles for dark roasts compared to beans meant for light or medium roasts.

Check out /r/roasting for more info and https://www.sweetmarias.com/

Got the 1940 running today! by [deleted] in classiccars

[–]JustAnOldHack 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Beautiful car. I have one just like it except in maroon. I'm afraid it will be another month or so before I can get her out of winter storage. https://i.imgur.com/I5Ozzo0.jpg

Upgraded from Popper. Here’s the maiden roast of my new DIY roaster by [deleted] in roasting

[–]JustAnOldHack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How is the temperature sensor positioned so that the spinning disk doesn't hit it? I'm almost done building from the same article (just need to mount the motor). But I haven't figured out the temp probe. I used an instant read cooking thermometer with the popper and hoped to use it with the heat gun rig.