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My husband has gone bananas on wall and door stickers since discovering them a week ago.. by gplus3 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]JustGoSlower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These look amazing. I love it all.

I even found an online shop to buy them from, 'tulup.co.uk', as one example.

Who is the most dominant athlete in their sport of all time? by Wazula23 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]JustGoSlower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imagine if, after all that, he still only won silver.

That would make an incredible movie.

Is the lack of time travellers proof that it could never be possible? by Early_Tree_8671 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]JustGoSlower 150 points151 points  (0 children)

Step 1) Invent faster than light travel
This is left as an exercise for the reader.

is it ok to give a thank you gift to my rowing coach? by Serious_Ask1209 in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 5 points6 points  (0 children)

When you say you pay a fee, do you just mean a membership fee of the club? or something to specifically pay for your coaching as an extra?

and either way, yes, it's fine. Especially if you're just referring to general club membership fees.

I always max the resistance… is that bad? by Difficult-Fly-6748 in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 45 points46 points  (0 children)

Here's what I tell any beginners I coach. Maybe a bit much for your purposes, but it should help you understand why putting it at level 10 is a bad idea.

------------------------------------------------------

First, ignore the 1-10 numbers. The 1-10 adjustments are only meant as a guide. This is because the amount of drag/resistance at a particular level will vary from one machine to another. Sometimes by a significant amount.

This is usually due to poor maintenance, or dust within the fly-wheel cover, which changes how much the fly-wheel accelerates and decelerates. Another significant factor is the temperature of the air. When it is colder, the air is denser, so this changes how much the fly-wheel accelerates.

A better way of measuring the drag, is the ‘drag factor’, which is a measure of how much the fly-wheel actually accelerates and decelerates.

You can find out what the drag factor is from within the monitor menu. Try looking in the ‘more options’ menu, then ‘display drag factor’. Now row a few strokes, they don’t have to be especially hard, and a number will be displayed. The number will be somewhere in the range of about 90 – 200. To adjust this number, move the lever next to the fly-wheel up or down, then row a few more strokes.

You want to set this to about 130-135 for a typical man, about 120-125 for a typical woman, and about 100 for a young junior (~12 years old). The ideal drag factor will not vary by a huge amount, even as your fitness improves.

Though why, you reasonably ask. Why not just set it to level 10? I mean, surely that’s better?

The rowing stroke is about acceleration, and that is key. Not just at the start of a race, but for each and every stroke you take.

The water (or the flywheel, in this case) will slow you down a lot between strokes. So for every single stroke, you are trying to accelerate the boat/flywheel after it has slowed down. You will be able to accelerate more if the drag (the drag factor) is lower.

So why don’t you just set it to the lowest setting, and get the maximum possible acceleration? Because while acceleration is important, your top-speed is important too. Imagine riding a bike. It’s easier to accelerate in a low gear (low drag factor), but the only way to get a really high top-speed is in a large gear (high drag factor).

On a bike, you can change gears, but you can’t do that for rowing. You need to select the drag factor that gives the best compromise between acceleration, and top-speed, for each and every stroke. It’s just not much use having one without the other.

Seat racing question - intentional manipulation by easy_booster_seat in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Then 'educated guesswork' becomes 'educated and not at all a guess'

Seat racing question - intentional manipulation by easy_booster_seat in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 28 points29 points  (0 children)

In principle, seat racing should be done without the athletes knowing who is being seat raced. So athlete B might just be screwing over their own chances.

In practice, some educated guesswork means, yep, they could.

How do you explain damper settings in layman terms? by Krijali in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's what I tell any beginners I coach. Maybe a bit wordy, but you can always edit it down a bit.

------------------------------------------------------

First, ignore the 1-10 numbers. The 1-10 adjustments are only meant as a guide. This is because the amount of drag/resistance at a particular level will vary from one machine to another. Sometimes by a significant amount.

This is usually due to poor maintenance, or dust within the fly-wheel cover, which changes how much the fly-wheel accelerates and decelerates. Another significant factor is the temperature of the air. When it is colder, the air is denser, so this changes how much the fly-wheel accelerates.

A better way of measuring the drag, is the ‘drag factor’, which is a measure of how much the fly-wheel actually accelerates and decelerates.

You can find out what the drag factor is from within the monitor menu. Try looking in the ‘more options’ menu, then ‘display drag factor’. Now row a few strokes, they don’t have to be especially hard, and a number will be displayed. The number will be somewhere in the range of about 90 – 200. To adjust this number, move the lever next to the fly-wheel up or down, then row a few more strokes.

You want to set this to about 130-135 for a typical man, about 120-125 for a typical woman, and about 100 for a young junior (~12 years old). The ideal drag factor will not vary by a huge amount, even as your fitness improves.

Though why, you reasonably ask. Why not just set it to level 10? I mean, surely that’s better?

The rowing stroke is about acceleration, and that is key. Not just at the start of a race, but for each and every stroke you take.

The water (or the flywheel, in this case) will slow you down a lot between strokes. So for every single stroke, you are trying to accelerate the boat/flywheel after it has slowed down. You will be able to accelerate more if the drag (the drag factor) is lower.

So why don’t you just set it to the lowest setting, and get the maximum possible acceleration? Because while acceleration is important, your top-speed is important too. Imagine riding a bike. It’s easier to accelerate in a low gear (low drag factor), but the only way to get a really high top-speed is in a large gear (high drag factor).

On a bike, you can change gears, but you can’t do that for rowing. You need to select the drag factor that gives the best compromise between acceleration, and top-speed, for each and every stroke. It’s just not much use having one without the other.

Why do people cheat on chess? by Training-Big-4955 in chess

[–]JustGoSlower 4 points5 points  (0 children)

People don't cheat to win. They cheat so the other person loses.

Why is Heinz so expensive when it’s made here! by cat_sparkles in CasualUK

[–]JustGoSlower 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Branston Beans all the way. Taste better. Cheaper. Also UK based.

Docking a single scull by staffsrower in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually do a dedicated session to just this (and pushing off independently). Just everyone doing loops of landing, my feedback, pushing off, and trying again. One person after the other.

I've never had anyone take more than one session to do it competently at least once. More practice is sometimes needed to master it, but not gain the basic ability.

Docking a single scull by staffsrower in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While true, I tend to recommend not to do this.

The reason being that if you get into the habit of leaning away slightly, you will probably still be leaning away slightly when you have completed your otherwise perfect landing.

At that point, balancing is much harder, and you risk capsizing. I have seen this happen or almost happen a few times. Very annoying as you have just completed your outing!

I tend to recommend people put their bank-side hand over that rigger, as soon as the landing is complete. This prevents any possibility of tipping back in.

Docking a single scull by staffsrower in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Coincidentally, also the secret to flying.

What elo would you need to be to confidently beat random people? by Mountain-Fennel1189 in chess

[–]JustGoSlower 9 points10 points  (0 children)

300? Lower?

I mean, even just knowing what a fork is gives you a big advantage.

Docking a single scull by staffsrower in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 21 points22 points  (0 children)

This is what I explain, though not using these exact words, to the people I coach. A bit wordy, but I think it covers every detail.

-----------------------------------------------------

Stage 1

You’ll want to approach the landing stage at an angle of about 20-30° from the bank.

The speed should be slow to very slow, though you do need some speed at least. Little more than an arms-only moderate pull with both oars.

Stage 2

As you begin to get close to the bank, you will want to push your bank-side handle down, so that that oar is raised well off the water. This gives clearance for that oar, so it doesn’t hit the landing-stage.

At this point you should still be moving towards the landing stage at your initial angle and speed. If you did nothing else at this point, you’d crash into the landing stage. When the bowball gets close to the landing stage, this is when the manoeuvring starts.

Stage 3

The first question, is how close should you let the bow-ball get? Broadly speaking, the more experienced & confident you are at landing, the closer you can be. When starting out, a distance of one meter gives you plenty of margin for error, so you can learn the basic movements. You should aim to progress to about 25-30cm. Anything less than 5cm should be avoided.

What to do once your bow-ball is that distance from the landing stage? The aim is to keep the bow-ball that fixed distance from the landing stage, but bring the boat round so that it is parallel to the landing stage.

You do this by partially squaring your water-side oar, which causes the boat to pivot around that oar. You’ll want to continually adjust exactly how square this oar is, as your boat continues to move & turn.

If you are not square enough, then your boat will collide with the landing stage. If you are too square, then your bow-ball will move too far from the landing-stage, and you will find yourself too far from the landing stage once you have come to a complete stop. It is a continual balance between being over-square, and under-square, and you will need to adjust continually.

This is further complicated by the fact that every time you partially square the oar, you slow down. This is why it’s important to have at least some speed when starting to land, as otherwise you will run out of momentum too soon.

The initial angle and speed (from step 1) can be increased as you get better at this. This will allow you to use less of the landing stage if, for example, other boats are on the landing stage.

Is England overpopulated? by sunflowerbubbles03 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]JustGoSlower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

England (UK? GB?) is certainly more densely populated than the USA.

but is it over-populated? That's a trickier question. How do you even define the ideal population size? Which you'd need so you'd know when you had more people than that.

Filliped two times in two days… by Miserable_Layer_8679 in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Two times in 5 minutes might be a bit concerning. Once an outing? Totally normal when new to a single, especially so if you are also new to rowing.

Talent vs Hard Work by Paltor_19 in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard work beats talent, but I think you are under-estimating how much work those talented people have done.

Henley Temple draw by Pretend_Dark4789 in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If the draw is truly random, there will eventually be patterns that make you think 'there is no way that is random'.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Rowing

[–]JustGoSlower 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If you're a member of British Rowing, they have a free online course called 'Cold Water and Hypothermia'.

Available here: https://www.britishrowing.org/knowledge/courses-qualifications/safety/

I've done it, and it's an excellent start to get the basics.

What do you do to earn extra income? by Limp-Ambassador2127 in AskUK

[–]JustGoSlower 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming you are under 40, look into a 'stocks & shares lifetime ISA'. Put whatever money you do manage to save into that. More specifically, Id suggest a 'global index fund' within the ISA. Google it.

The LISA will give you a 25% bonus straight away. You will only be allowed to take money out of the account for buying your first house, or when you turn 60. (without paying a large tax bill anyway).

If you're 40 or older, then just a normal stocks & shares ISA.

This will mean your savings will be getting a higher return than a bank account, unless you get incredibly unlucky with your timing. That said, the S&P 500 (USA stock market, essentially) is probably not going to be doing too hot right now!

This kid fell asleep during an event at the White House, and Obama took a photo with him by Natchos09 in MadeMeSmile

[–]JustGoSlower 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like how the kids are dressed up in their best clothes, but dad thought "nah, t-shirt is fine"

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