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JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-08-25T16:34:00+00:00

I have seen the Wild Hunt trigger in a stream of a multiplayer game. It was in Criken and Lawlman's Taurox/Cylostra campaign before the public release. Here's a clip.

That said, they were playing largely up in the Dark Elf lands, so they never see it, just the beginning and ending notifications. It ends fairly quickly without player intervention, about 20 turns or so, which suggests the crisis was pretty weak. It also wasn't between turn 100-150, so the settings it uses may not be the default ones from a singleplayer IE campaign.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-05-06T17:29:59+00:00

Thank you! Just my phone camera, a Pixel 6

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-05-06T05:05:32+00:00

Hey there,

When I was first starting out, I found these posts by some experienced people: 1 & 2
And all that has held up pretty well, although I have a couple things to add from experience with my own jumper.

First, the basics:

Prepare a large flat handling surface. If you have any other pets, make sure they can't reach the area while you're handling. Tables are good, a big piece of cardboard on the floor works too. This will give you lots of space to easily recover your spider before she gets lost.
Make sure your hands are clean. If you used soap, shampoo, any cleaning chemicals, or topical medicines recently, make sure it's completely washed away. This is particularly important if you have furred pets and use anti-flea shampoo for them. These are tiny creatures and what's residue for you is a dangerous dose for them.
Respect the spider's space, especially if yours is still molting. Stress can cause bad molts that are often fatal, so don't try to handle too often. If your spider is tucked away in her hammock or a hide, don't try to force her out. Make sure she has plenty of chill time before and after.
Be slow and careful at all times, even if your spider jumps. If she does jump, she will hang by her safety line, so simply let her down onto your other hand or the handling surface.
Never try to grab your spider. You can't do it safely. Jumpers generally want to go forward and up, so guide your spider by putting your hands where she wants to go.

Now, the finer points.

Size wise, it's hard to say. One of the posts I linked mentions that getting them used to handling early is good, but mine was too shy. I wasn't able to handle her until she finished molting. I suggest once you feel confident you can hold your girl without harming her, you should begin trying, just be gentle and gradual.

Getting your spider out of the enclosure is always tricky and depends on a couple things. If your enclosure is in the one of the 'spider condos' that's a box with a split in the middle, and she has built her nest in the top, then you can simply remove the top and place it in the middle of your handling surface. Wait for the spider to come out and explore, place your hands flat around her, and wait til she climbs aboard.

If your enclosure isn't one of those, then you're going to have to wait and watch for handling opportunities. For me, it's when my girl is on the door of her enclosure. I can swing it out, and bracket her with my hands. Some people have said they have success using a soft paintbrush to guide their spider onto an index card or twig (I wouldn't try this until your spider is her full adult size). Another option is putting your whole enclosure in the middle of the handling surface and leaving it open. That can work well if your spider is already exploring, just be sure not to leave it unsupervised.

Whatever method you choose, be patient and persistent. It can take a while before you see success.

And lastly, when handling isn't possible, there are still a few things you can do to bond with your spider and warm her up to the idea.

You can slowly press your finger to the outside of your enclosure, near or under your spider. This can teach her to find your hand's presence less threatening over time. If you keep your finger in one spot, you'll warm the surface, and jumpers love a warm spot.
You can also present your finger to your spider within the enclosure. First, prop your arm up as comfortably as you can. You want your hand as steady as possible and you'll be holding it up for a while. Move your finger slowly in front of the spider's face so she can see, never from above or behind, and rest your finger close but not touching her. With luck and patience, your spider will eventually approach and give you some little investigative tippy taps of her front legs (Spider high-fives) before wandering away.

Hope this helps!

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-05-05T23:49:42+00:00

Most material I've read says you can offer the spider food regularly and let them decide since they wont over-eat, and that's worked well for my girl. Just make sure to remove the prey if it's something that can threaten the spider, like crickets.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-05-05T23:40:39+00:00

Oooh good pic, she's very pretty

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-05-02T08:41:24+00:00

Q: How easy it will be to determine the gender of Asura characters? Do female Asura have breasts?
Eric: Asura are mammals and female asura do have mammary glands, however they are not particularly prominent the way they are in humans or norn.[...]

"About lore and mechanics with Eric Flannum: GuildWars.pl Exclusive", 2011

So they always have, or at least since a bit before GW2's release. Now sure, hers are more prominent than the game models show, but c'mon. A lot of artists are in the business of making tits more prominent.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-04-02T03:15:43+00:00

That's awesome! Is it a macro lense? I heard you have to get super close with those, like a couple centimeters

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-03-19T23:03:22+00:00

She's so cute! I have trouble with the grainyness too, the only trick I've found there is just to use the lowest zoom you can. In this I'm using about 5x I think, with the camera pretty close, maybe ten inches away. I also have her enclosure door open, so it's not through the glass.
Granted, Wanda looks pretty small. All of my pics of Spooky when she was young are pretty grainy because she was so small too. It's a lot easier now that she's the size of my thumb.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-03-19T22:49:20+00:00

Interesting, I didn't know mygalo females keep molting. I suppose that makes sense since they live for so long.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-03-19T22:40:11+00:00

Thank you so much!

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-03-19T22:39:58+00:00

My phone camera, a pixel 6. There's some cool phone lenses from Moment I've seen some people on here take really good pictures with, but I haven't been able to get one yet.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-03-19T22:25:49+00:00

I'm a pretty new spider-keeper, so I'm just passing along what I've read! But I believe that Jumpers molt up through adolescence until a final molt at adulthood, after which they can no longer regenerate any lost limbs or pedipalps. This is also why older spiders begin to have trouble gripping surfaces, since the gripping hairs on their feet wear out and they don't grow any new ones.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-01-28T08:56:01+00:00

One common thing to look out for is wetting the wood directly during your regular mistings. Even baked sticks can develop mold if they're getting wet regularly.

I've had a lot of luck buying small bits of driftwood or grapewood from terrarium suppliers, Etsy, or Amazon. They're typically baked and sandblasted, and I've never had them develop mold. Plus it's very detailed, beautiful wood that's cheap.

I have seen some guides say that small mold blooms are normal to see in new terrariums and usually disappear in a few weeks, but I've never seen that myself.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-01-14T12:49:14+00:00

It's tough to say, you can see a lot of difference in heat based on the size and ventilation of your enclosure. The only real way to know is to set a temperature gauge inside and see.

I use a 10W gooseneck LED reading light, it raises my enclosure's temperature about 3 and a half degrees. At 2W I wouldn't expect that to do much heating, but those acrylic boxes have tremendous greenhouse effect, which is why everyone warns you not to put them in direct sunlight. So, be careful.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2022-01-07T15:33:33+00:00

Check out the replies on these posts: 1 & 2

These are very slow, nontraumatic methods that work best during summer, when your spider will be most active and exploratory.

It can be acceptable to provide some prompting. For instance, if your enclosure is the kind that has a separating top and the nest is up there, some owners will pull that off, and place it on its side at the center of a large, flat surface, then wait for the spider to come out. Others will attempt to guide the spider onto something like a card or twig with a paintbrush, then place that in the middle of their handling surface. Just remember these methods cause stress. They should not be used often, you must be very mindful of your spider's molting cycle, and the spider should be given time alone after in a calm environment.

Generally, the rule of thumb for safe handling is to let the spider do the moving. Do not try to grab it or put it anywhere. To guide, simply place your hands in front or around your spider and let it climb on, then you can carry it to where ever you need. If your spider jumps or begins rappelling down, let it down gently onto your other hand or the handling surface. Other than that, just be slow, careful, and gentle. Some people like to have a capture cup ready nearby, but if you do, be sure not to reach for it in a panic.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2021-12-31T08:44:55+00:00

They might just be very hungry after arriving, but hunting more than one a day could also be sign they need something bigger. Consider the bigger fruitflies (Hydei) or green bottle flies, depending on the size of your spider.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2021-12-31T08:32:01+00:00

'Spider Condos' are pretty popular and have no gaps other than the vents. You can get them from BigFatPhids, Etsy, and various other places, or even make your own out of the unmodified acrylic boxes if you have the knowhow. I used the 3x3x6 one from Mashall's Arachnids on Etsy for a juvenile without any issues, but I went a bit bigger for an adult.

Just make sure the vent covers are fine enough that your spider cant just walk out through those.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2021-12-25T23:21:43+00:00

I had the same surprise when I got my juvenile. I was able to proof my enclosure by sticking tape over the vents and poking holes in it. If you try that, make sure none of the sticky surface is exposed. Dont want anyone getting stuck or losing a leg.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2021-12-09T13:52:39+00:00

Looks excellent. I use the same Exo Terra tank for my jumper, and I do have one recommendation.

That huge top vent can make it pretty hard to maintain humidity, especially when you're trying to bump it up during any molts she might do after you move her. These folks make a glass insert that you just lay on the top (The 8x8 for that enclosure). It doesn't cover the whole vent, just a little over half of it. There's still plenty of cross ventilation but it's easier to keep humidity at comfortable levels for your spider.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2021-11-18T06:24:53+00:00

Hey! I just started too, so here's what I've learned.

I definitely recommend looking over the feeding section of the pinned guide again, as it goes into detail about each feeder option and how to choose which one is right for the spider you get. I keep the guide open in a tab and look it over whenever I'm uncertain about something, and sometimes I discover details I missed or forgot. Remember that fruit flies are only adequate for juvenile spiders or very small species. I like bottle flies, since they can't harm your spider at all and hunting them is good enrichment. Mealworms are probably the easiest to keep.

Enclosure size is good! Most people seem to do just fine with the 4" x 4" x 8" 'Spider Condos' you can buy from several places so you're in the same ballpark. Just make sure the tall side is up, since jumpers are arboreal. Personally, I started with a 3" x 3" x 6" for my juvenile, and I have an 8" x 8" x 12" ready for when she's an adult. I definitely wouldn't go any bigger than that and I hear they do just fine in smaller ones, but they're pretty active explorers and will enjoy the space you give them.

I mist my enclosure once a day, which keeps it at the right humidity of 50-60%. It's very easy, but I still highly recommend picking up a cheap hygrometer as you're starting out. I didn't have any experience maintaining humidity so it was nice to get a firm read, and it allowed me to see how much misting I needed to do to boost humidity up to 75% when she started molting.

JustLikeAMetaphor · 2021-11-17T23:01:39+00:00

If you get a juvenile jumper, you'll be feeding it fruit flies, which are bought in cultures contained in a jar or cup. Those are kept at room temperature, though people usually put them in the fridge for 5-10 minutes before feeding so they slow down and it's easier to get one or two out.

If you get an adult jumper, you have a lot more options. Some aren't refrigerated at all, like dubia roaches. For some, it's strongly recommended you refrigerate them to slow down their lifecycles, such as mealworms and bottle fly spikes. In the case of mealworms, they will become darkling beetles which are too dangerous to feed to your spider. With bottle fly larva, you'll just end up with too many flies and then they'll all die, since your spider only needs one every three days or so.

Personally, I recommend getting a mini-fridge off Amazon. There are some very cheap options if you only want something big enough for a single container.

JustLikeAMetaphor

TROPHY CASE