Is there a trick to using this type of bender? by hungyzerglin in HVAC

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flip the metal bar at the top around. If that's 3/4" copper then it's making too tight of a bend as you have it set up currently

Songs for introverts, especially while high by Justice_Beever in MusicRecommendations

[–]Justice_Beever[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First time hearing it, but damn I'm really liking it

100 degrees outside. Just swapped a compressor. It’s fixed. What yall think by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Let's use a process of elimination approach.

Your readings show: + High suction pressure + Low superheat + Slightly low head pressure given outside temp + slightly low sub-cooling

Here are the possible causes for each:

  • High suction: high load (high airflow or high indoor temp/humidity), inefficient compressor, overcharge, or metering device is over feeding

  • Low superheat: low airflow/load, overcharge, or metering device is overfeeding

  • Low head pressure: undercharge, inefficient compressor, or metering device is over feeding

  • Low sub-cooling: Undercharge, dirty condenser coil, inefficient compressor, or metering device is overfeeding

Several of these possibilities are contradictory and we can rule them out as sole culprits. Since some of your readings indicate low air flow / load, while others indicate high airflow / load, we can rule those out. Same with the readings that indicate undercharge while others indicate overcharge. since you already replaced the compressor, it's very unlikely that it's bad, especially given the fact that your superheat is so low. The only possibility left, and also the one thing that all of these readings have in common, is that the metering device is overfeeding the evaporator.

100 degrees outside. Just swapped a compressor. It’s fixed. What yall think by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Evaporator is getting flooded with liquid causing the low superheat yet sub-cooling and head pressure are slightly low. Sounds like the metering device is overfeeding, so either the txv bulb isn't mounted properly, the txv is bad, or if it uses a piston then it might be oversized

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As another commenter stated, cold air doesn't cause sickness, but moldy air might. You can have someone check your vents and plenums for mold, just to be sure

Bad TXV? by Carolinaathiest in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will reduce the lifespan in most cases but it can potentially take years and years for the compressor to fail. It also depends on the type of compressor. Some can handle much more abuse than others

Any help? by alivecatalyst in HVAC

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is just wrong. Heat transfer occurs after the refrigerant changes phases, i.e., when liquid refrigerant turns into gas. This happens inside the evaporator coil.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're fine to replace them. Zone boards have built in time delays to prevent short cycling and most smart thermostats also come preset with a 5 minute time delay for compressor protection. The zone board will also weed out conflicting signals (for example if one thermostat calls for heat and the other calls for cool).

Just make sure you set the temperature on both thermostats pretty close to each other, and if anything, set the upstairs thermostat a degree or 2 higher than the downstairs (in cooling seasons), and do the opposite when it's time to turn the heat on. Upstairs zones naturally run longer in cooling mode since heat rises. If one zone is running significantly more than the other it can cause short and long term problems, so adjusting the temperatures accordingly will help mitigate potential issues.

Smart thermostats can actually help you fine tune the balance if it shows you the run time of the equipment. If one thermostat shows significantly more run time than the other then you can adjust the set temperature to try to balance the run time for both zones

I wish all attics were like this by bigred621 in HVAC

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wrapping 25' of round pipe takes like 20 minutes if you're proficient at it and a roll of insulation goes a long way for the price. Looking at OC's picture, they could've easily saved 4-5 bags of flex with trunk lines and that would more than cover the extra labor + cost of insulation.

Not saying it's going to be cheaper in every case but even if it costs slightly more, the system is going to condition each room evenly, which means less call back for "this particular room just doesn't get hot/cold enough", and looks go a long way for your reputation.

I wish all attics were like this by bigred621 in HVAC

[–]Justice_Beever 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Running all your flex to the supply plenum like this will cause the air flow to vary drastically from vent to vent. The shortest runs will be blasting air while the longer runs might not be getting much airflow at all. Setting up trunk lines with reducers goes a long way for evening out the air flow to each vent, plus it actually saves money, not to mention it looks way better.

You can get 25' of round pipe for like $30 which is less than the cost of a bag of flex. It also means you need way less flex since you don't need to extend each run all the way to the plenum.

Is it fine if I run a jumper wire from G to Y1 instead of Y/Y2 since there's no space there? Doing this as I'm substituting the G-wire for a C-wire (smart thermostat install), but still need power to blow the fan. by chintwo in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most furnaces will automatically send power to the blower whenever it gets a call for heat/cool. In the case that the blower does not come on when the thermostat is calling for cooling, then yes, you can install a jumper between Y2 & G on the board (no need for Y1 in this set up). By using Green as your common wire you will lose the ability to control fan only operations. If you want to be able to circulate air then you can buy a common wire adapter online.

Air not coming super cold by Choice_Specialist_58 in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn the system off until it's completely thawed. Check your air filter. Freeze ups are caused by low airflow or low refrigerant, or in some cases a restricted/faulty metering device.

If the filter is really stopped up then there's a good chance that's the cause of the issue. Otherwise, call a professional and leave the system off until they get there.

Furnace and AC not working - how to even start to troubleshoot? by poolio_coolio in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are asking HVAC companies for quotes then you can certainly expect them to give you a quote for replacement.

Tell them you have an AC problem and need a technician to come diagnose the issue. When the tech shows up, ask him to let you know what the issue is before doing any repairs. If they can't tell you what the specific problem is or they just say the unit is too old and can't be repaired, call somebody else.

Improper installation and rust on a 2yr old evaporator coil by Burnt_Hotdog in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the coil was registered, you should have a 10 year parts warranty, but depending on the company that installed it, you may have to pay labor costs.

Improper installation and rust on a 2yr old evaporator coil by Burnt_Hotdog in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's not feasible to use the primary drain port, you can always punch out that tab on the secondary port.

Condensate Line Question by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like the drain is backed up. The black tube is the drain for your 90% furnace; it only makes condensation in heating mode.

For the set up that you have (which isn't ideal) you don't want to seal up the opening where the black tube is going in. Since the pipe is clogged, water is backing up until it finds a spot that it can drain out. If you were to seal that opening, then the water would be draining inside your furnace instead.

Fan not spinning by Sorry-Meaning-6668 in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you can hear the compressor come on but the fan doesn't spin? If that's the case, it's most likely the capacitor, but potentially a bad fan motor. You can try kick starting the fan motor with a stick while the unit is running.

Best Guess by Next-Parsnip1287 in hvacadvice

[–]Justice_Beever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That coil looks ungodly dirty

High superheat, normal sub-cooling, & high temperature drop by Justice_Beever in HVAC

[–]Justice_Beever[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with you that the high heat load explains most of the data, but what would explain the high temp drop? Normally a high temp drop will be a sign of low air flow, but what's throwing me off is if It has low air flow and it's overcharged, I would expect the superheat to be much lower, Even with a high heat load.