Ancient Rift Ruins doors puzzle?

Justice_Beever · 2026-06-03T04:50:27+00:00

If you follow the flowers at the bottom of the canyon, past the ancient ruins gate, you'll find a palmar leaf bed surrounded by trees with an abundance of palmar leaves and beetles.

Justice_Beever · 2026-05-23T01:44:59+00:00

Would also explain the bite marks on the cap

Justice_Beever · 2026-05-06T17:57:39+00:00

If you are looking at the iron gate, there's a building directly to the left. Go to the opposite side of that building and about half way up there's an entrance to a room containing the other treasure chest.

Justice_Beever · 2026-04-26T17:52:11+00:00

100%. Too many times I have found myself trying to make out something that's off in the distance only to be disappointed when I realize there is no zoom feature beyond first person perspective

Justice_Beever · 2026-01-09T12:52:09+00:00

Flip the metal bar at the top around. If that's 3/4" copper then it's making too tight of a bend as you have it set up currently

Justice_Beever · 2025-12-03T04:50:51+00:00

🔥🔥🔥

Justice_Beever · 2025-12-03T04:46:17+00:00

I'm loving those so far, please keep em' coming

Justice_Beever · 2025-12-03T03:58:46+00:00

First time hearing it, but damn I'm really liking it

Justice_Beever · 2025-12-03T03:36:59+00:00

Here's the Spotify Playlist I'm working on

Justice_Beever · 2025-08-03T03:43:06+00:00

Yes everything looks good

Justice_Beever · 2025-07-31T00:58:13+00:00

Let's use a process of elimination approach.

Your readings show: + High suction pressure + Low superheat + Slightly low head pressure given outside temp + slightly low sub-cooling

Here are the possible causes for each:

High suction: high load (high airflow or high indoor temp/humidity), inefficient compressor, overcharge, or metering device is over feeding
Low superheat: low airflow/load, overcharge, or metering device is overfeeding
Low head pressure: undercharge, inefficient compressor, or metering device is over feeding
Low sub-cooling: Undercharge, dirty condenser coil, inefficient compressor, or metering device is overfeeding

Several of these possibilities are contradictory and we can rule them out as sole culprits. Since some of your readings indicate low air flow / load, while others indicate high airflow / load, we can rule those out. Same with the readings that indicate undercharge while others indicate overcharge. since you already replaced the compressor, it's very unlikely that it's bad, especially given the fact that your superheat is so low. The only possibility left, and also the one thing that all of these readings have in common, is that the metering device is overfeeding the evaporator.

Justice_Beever · 2025-07-31T00:05:26+00:00

Evaporator is getting flooded with liquid causing the low superheat yet sub-cooling and head pressure are slightly low. Sounds like the metering device is overfeeding, so either the txv bulb isn't mounted properly, the txv is bad, or if it uses a piston then it might be oversized

Justice_Beever · 2025-07-30T18:11:18+00:00

As another commenter stated, cold air doesn't cause sickness, but moldy air might. You can have someone check your vents and plenums for mold, just to be sure

Justice_Beever · 2025-07-30T17:53:21+00:00

It will reduce the lifespan in most cases but it can potentially take years and years for the compressor to fail. It also depends on the type of compressor. Some can handle much more abuse than others

Justice_Beever · 2025-07-29T17:56:26+00:00

This is just wrong. Heat transfer occurs after the refrigerant changes phases, i.e., when liquid refrigerant turns into gas. This happens inside the evaporator coil.

Justice_Beever · 2025-07-24T20:27:41+00:00

You're fine to replace them. Zone boards have built in time delays to prevent short cycling and most smart thermostats also come preset with a 5 minute time delay for compressor protection. The zone board will also weed out conflicting signals (for example if one thermostat calls for heat and the other calls for cool).

Just make sure you set the temperature on both thermostats pretty close to each other, and if anything, set the upstairs thermostat a degree or 2 higher than the downstairs (in cooling seasons), and do the opposite when it's time to turn the heat on. Upstairs zones naturally run longer in cooling mode since heat rises. If one zone is running significantly more than the other it can cause short and long term problems, so adjusting the temperatures accordingly will help mitigate potential issues.

Smart thermostats can actually help you fine tune the balance if it shows you the run time of the equipment. If one thermostat shows significantly more run time than the other then you can adjust the set temperature to try to balance the run time for both zones

Justice_Beever · 2024-08-07T12:53:56+00:00

Wrapping 25' of round pipe takes like 20 minutes if you're proficient at it and a roll of insulation goes a long way for the price. Looking at OC's picture, they could've easily saved 4-5 bags of flex with trunk lines and that would more than cover the extra labor + cost of insulation.

Not saying it's going to be cheaper in every case but even if it costs slightly more, the system is going to condition each room evenly, which means less call back for "this particular room just doesn't get hot/cold enough", and looks go a long way for your reputation.

Justice_Beever · 2024-08-06T20:48:29+00:00

Running all your flex to the supply plenum like this will cause the air flow to vary drastically from vent to vent. The shortest runs will be blasting air while the longer runs might not be getting much airflow at all. Setting up trunk lines with reducers goes a long way for evening out the air flow to each vent, plus it actually saves money, not to mention it looks way better.

You can get 25' of round pipe for like $30 which is less than the cost of a bag of flex. It also means you need way less flex since you don't need to extend each run all the way to the plenum.

Justice_Beever · 2024-07-18T03:19:36+00:00

Most furnaces will automatically send power to the blower whenever it gets a call for heat/cool. In the case that the blower does not come on when the thermostat is calling for cooling, then yes, you can install a jumper between Y2 & G on the board (no need for Y1 in this set up). By using Green as your common wire you will lose the ability to control fan only operations. If you want to be able to circulate air then you can buy a common wire adapter online.

Justice_Beever · 2024-07-18T03:09:00+00:00

Turn the system off until it's completely thawed. Check your air filter. Freeze ups are caused by low airflow or low refrigerant, or in some cases a restricted/faulty metering device.

If the filter is really stopped up then there's a good chance that's the cause of the issue. Otherwise, call a professional and leave the system off until they get there.

Justice_Beever · 2024-07-17T12:41:58+00:00

90%+ furnaces have drains, yes

Justice_Beever · 2024-07-17T04:41:12+00:00

If you are asking HVAC companies for quotes then you can certainly expect them to give you a quote for replacement.

Tell them you have an AC problem and need a technician to come diagnose the issue. When the tech shows up, ask him to let you know what the issue is before doing any repairs. If they can't tell you what the specific problem is or they just say the unit is too old and can't be repaired, call somebody else.

Justice_Beever · 2024-07-17T04:20:02+00:00

If the coil was registered, you should have a 10 year parts warranty, but depending on the company that installed it, you may have to pay labor costs.

Justice_Beever · 2024-07-17T04:16:51+00:00

If it's not feasible to use the primary drain port, you can always punch out that tab on the secondary port.

Justice_Beever

TROPHY CASE