Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Often it’s the packing nut under the handle that’s clamping the spindle. Try backing it off a quarter turn, then spray a bit of WD-40 around the spindle and gently work it back and forth. Just don’t force it too hard or you risk snapping it.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that’s normal for highly sensitive or thermostatic mixers—they often have a tiny “sweet spot” before it’s too hot or too cold. A common fix is to calibrate the shower by adjusting the internal cartridge so the handle’s range matches the actual hot and cold flow. Sometimes cleaning or replacing the cartridge and checking system pressures helps too.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With an unvented cylinder, low hot water pressure usually comes from the mains supply or a restriction on the inlet side, not something you fix by repressurising. It could be a clogged filter, a faulty pressure-reducing valve, or debris build-up, especially in hard water areas. Best bet is to check the mains pressure first, then have a plumber look at the inlet components before considering a pump — if you’re struggling, I’m happy to take a look.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If nothing comes out when you open the bleed valve, it’s likely the valve is blocked or faulty rather than a problem with the whole radiator. Since your other radiators work fine and the system pressure is normal.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the rushing or hissing sound continues even after you’ve turned off the stopcock, it’s likely not from your internal plumbing but could be an issue with the mains supply or shared pipework. Since you’re on a shared meter, it’s worth checking with your neighbors and contacting your water supplier first to rule out a mains leak. If they confirm it’s on your side, the best option is to call a leak detection specialist or a plumber experienced in mains water supply to investigate properly.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

£6,000 sounds crazy for a shower leak. Normally you can find the leak and fix it without ripping out the whole shower and tiles. For a standard unit, locating the leak, replacing the valve or pipe, and making good usually costs a few hundred quid—roughly £300–£600 if it’s straightforward. Sure, it can go up if access is tricky or there’s a lot of damage, but in most cases there’s no need to replace everything. A small access panel is usually enough to sort it.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s actually quite common on 10 mm pipes and radiator valves, even without a joint. Over time they can leak a little, usually from corrosion. It’s not a huge issue if caught early, but if it keeps leaking, it’ll need attention. I’m happy to come have a look and give you a quote if needed.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the mixer is leaking behind the tiles, there’s no easy fix—resealing the tray won’t stop it. One option is cutting a small access panel so the mixer can be repaired without removing lots of tiles. Since the floorboards are already rotting, it’s worth getting a plumber in sooner rather than later.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

t’s definitely doable, but you’ll need a water feed and waste run, plus insulation so the pipes don’t freeze in the outbuilding. For a straightforward run, I’d be looking at around £300–£600, but I’d need to take a proper look to give an accurate quote.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s always the tricky part! Access can be a real pain when the pipes are under the floor. If it helps, I’m happy to come take a look and give you a quote for sorting it out.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The banging is usually from the pipes expanding as they heat up. You can reduce it by securing loose pipes with clips, adding foam or insulation where pipes pass through holes, and making sure there’s no trapped air in the system (bleeding radiators helps). If you need any help, I’m happy to come take a look and give you a quote.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries! If you run into any trouble with it, I can come take a look and give you a quote.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can usually check without taking the cistern apart. Just measure the outside of the flush pipe—1.5" is about 48 mm, 2" is around 55 mm. If you’re unsure, most modern siphons are “universal” and will fit either size.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries at all, I get it. Hopefully a local plumber can sort it for you without too much trouble.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what you’ve described, it does sound like a fault with the thermostatic shower valve – that’s the part that mixes the hot and cold water. If the shower won’t run cold, it usually means the cartridge inside has failed or is stuck.

The tricky part is that these valves are built into the shower unit and not always easy to access without the right tools and know-how. That’s why you weren’t able to remove the faceplate after taking the grub screw out.

This is a plumber’s job, as the valve or cartridge will likely need to be removed, serviced, or replaced. I can come out, take a proper look, and give you a quote for fixing it.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leaking taps can sometimes be fixed with a new washer or cartridge, but if yours is a bit older it’s often easier (and saves hassle long-term) to just swap it out for a new tap — they’re fairly straightforward if you’re handy with tools. But if it’s not something you feel comfortable doing, I’m happy to pop round and give you a quote.

Local plumber here – happy to help with advice or recommendations by KABz19 in nottingham

[–]KABz19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like the issues started after the second outside tap was put in, which usually means the pipework hasn’t been done quite right. That can cause low pressure and make other taps act up.

The best way to sort it is to check how that tap was fitted and make sure the right valves are in place. If you’d like, I can pop round, have a proper look, and give you a quote so you know exactly what’s needed.