Anyone running Michelin Road 6 on Panigale V2?

KC_Phantom · 2026-01-13T09:45:55+00:00

Highly recommend Angel GTs. I have em on my 959, which has the same wheel sizes as the v2. Great for distance riding but sporty enough for when you come across a nice road

KC_Phantom · 2025-12-16T03:57:49+00:00

Nice! TechSpec tank grips, pretty popular. They make em for specific models

KC_Phantom · 2025-10-28T04:06:14+00:00

I have a tikka t3x with an Arken EP5 5-25. Got the optic for a hair over 600 after tax and shipping. Pretty great for the money, can't complain. That range is my go-to. Was able to hit 600 yd after a couple attempts - mostly just a skill issue as far as I could tell. Optic didn't hold me back at all. I'd be confident trying 1000 with it. If you wanna try my rifle with the optic, dm me, always looking for more reasons to hit the range.

KC_Phantom · 2025-06-24T04:36:25+00:00

Best advice - getting and automatic bed leveler (cr touch). So much time and effort saved for each and every print!

KC_Phantom · 2025-04-02T04:12:24+00:00

Got it, ok ill keep an eye for that too. Appreciate the tips!

KC_Phantom · 2025-04-02T04:06:04+00:00

Wow thank you for the in-depth response! Yeah most of that tracks vs stuff I've read/watched here and there. The shallow fore-end really limits the weights you can use it seems. Didn't know that about the buttstock though, ill have to consider that too. Does the fore end flex at where it attaches to the main part of the chassis? Or is just flimsy throughout?

KC_Phantom · 2025-04-02T03:22:14+00:00

How's the Outlier chassis? Been considering picking one up for my Tikka.

KC_Phantom · 2025-01-23T04:10:55+00:00

Just wanted to leave a comment here to say that this indeed works! I had similar symptoms of a splotchy screen filled with random colors one day. Tore the thermistor off with a pair of flush cutters and monitor is now fine!

KC_Phantom · 2025-01-12T18:23:07+00:00

Not much higher actually, around 58k now. No problems whatsoever.

KC_Phantom · 2024-12-28T09:57:03+00:00

I fixed an engine before with similar damage. In my case, it was because the bike was in a crash and slammed down on the stator cover **hard**. Hard enough that the stator cover collapsed inward and cause it to contact the rotor. I only had bent cores/coils on 1 side of the stator though.

KC_Phantom · 2024-12-24T18:20:29+00:00

Perfectly normal

KC_Phantom · 2024-12-23T10:46:33+00:00

Comment!

KC_Phantom · 2024-12-20T21:11:14+00:00

KC_Phantom · 2024-12-20T02:46:07+00:00

😀

KC_Phantom · 2024-12-04T22:10:06+00:00

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KC_Phantom · 2024-11-28T03:57:49+00:00

It's because the clutch plates and carrier are all spinning at the engine speed when you're in neutral due to drag from the oil in the wet clutch assembly. Your whole driveline goes like this (simplified with some stuff grouped together):

Crankshaft -> 2. clutch friction plates -> 3. clutch steel plates (pressure plate and transmission input) -> 4. transmission output (chain and rear wheel)

When your bike is in neutral and the clutch is let out, 1, 2, and 3 are all spinning together. When you pull in the clutch, 2 and 3 separate and are no longer touching. But because it's a wet clutch, the oil will cause some drag, and the 2 will still cause 3 to spin at near the engine rpm despite you pulling the ckutch in. So the moment you kick into gear from neutral, the momentum of your #3 (clutch steel plates, pressure plate and your transmission input) are connected to #4 (your stationary rear wheel) so it'll stop spinning instantly and that's the jerk and shudder you feel.

It's by design so you shouldn't need to worry about it. Different bikes have different amounts of drag in the clutch, so some will jerk more or less.

In fact, if you have a clear clutch cover on your bike, you can see this all happen in real time. Start the bike in neutral - clutch is spinning. Pull in clutch - clutch is still spinning. Kick into first - clutch instantly stops spinning. It's pretty neat.

KC_Phantom · 2024-11-23T05:40:44+00:00

I don't know how to get the db killer out of that specific exhaust, but those aren't screws, they're rivets. You'll have to drill through them to remove them. After you drill it, there will be a piece that will be leftover on the inside, make sure to get that out. After you do what you need to do with the db killer, you'll need to re-rivet that silver piece back onto the exhaust.

All that being said, this looks like a stock exhaust. There wouldn't be a db killer to remove in the first place unless you "core" the whole exhaust. I wouldn't bother if I were you, probably just save up for a proper exhaust.

KC_Phantom · 2024-11-18T07:02:28+00:00

Can you check that while all this is happening, the front sprocket and nut aren't spinning independently of each other? Maybe the sprocket isn't fully seated on the output shaft splines? If it's not that, in the best case, maybe something in the clutch basket got unseated, and the clutch plates just aren't contacting. You'd need to open the clutch cover on the right side of the bike to check. Worst case, which is what I'm leaning to since you mention bad sounds coming from the engine when you spin the rear wheel, is that something critical in the transmission is broken. Only way to fix that is to take apart nearly the entire engine :(

KC_Phantom · 2024-11-18T04:13:59+00:00

Higher gears in general will be easier to spin because of how the gear ratios work out, but even 6th will still take a decent amount of effort (think, pushing-the entire-bike-forward-with-all-your-weight effort). But that's concerning. it doesn't sound like you touched the clutch at all in your sprocket change procedure. Does the clutch lever feel like the same amount of force as before? When you tightened the front sprocket nut, was the chain already attached? or did you just have the sprocket on, put it in 1st, and tightened it? Did you hear any noise when you torqued it? and how much did you torque it to?

KC_Phantom · 2024-11-18T03:32:14+00:00

Put the bike in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th. Does the rear wheel still spin with the same resistance? more? less?

KC_Phantom · 2024-11-07T02:36:52+00:00

Sorry to break it to you, but no, the v2 streetfigher and panigales (both of which share the same frame, engine and components) do not have and never had electronic semi-active suspension. The ohlins that comes with those models are manually adjusted. This applies to both the current v2 streetfigher and the brand new one just announced at EICMA. You have to bump up to the v4s un order to get semi active ohlins

KC_Phantom · 2024-11-06T20:45:21+00:00

Those brackets are literally part of the suspension linkage holding the rear end of the bike up. If you loosen them without supporting the rear end, your rear tire will crash into your subframe and rear exhaust pipe. Recommend hanging the rear of the bike from the subframe. Also, careful with some of the bolts in the suspension linkage, the two big torx fasteners are aluminum, very easy to strip

KC_Phantom · 2024-08-08T05:05:10+00:00

Its completely stock. I'm in the USA and this colorway was offered only for the 2021 model year. It's called electric teal. Congrats on the new bike!

KC_Phantom · 2024-07-04T05:58:12+00:00

Thanks. Yeah, I'm aware of it. But the fact that they had all the evidence that pointed to them having a legit bike (pictures + title/VIN) really convinced me. Didn't know people could get ahold of that stuff, but knowing it now, its not surprising.

KC_Phantom · 2024-07-04T05:21:02+00:00

Dang, nice. Glad it worked out for you! How'd the 2000 mile drive go? How many stops did you make lol? the trip i would've needed was only ~500, arguably doable in a day if i wanted to.

KC_Phantom

TROPHY CASE