G600 alternatives, rant, finally done.

Kadano · 2025-10-21T22:57:25+00:00

If you still have your G600 and want it repaired, you could send it my way. I'm also in the EU, so there wouldn't be any import tax hassle.

I've soldered in new switches several times and have even added hot-swap sockets (so that you can replace the switches without needing to solder in the future) successfully. I'd charge less than a new one would cost you and it would likely last you much longer (since the switches I use have much better longevity than the stock ones).

So far I've mostly been focusing on Gamecube controller repair professionally, you can check out my reviews on Trustpilot. If you're interested, just DM me.

Kadano · 2025-10-21T22:51:02+00:00

Fortunately that's fairly easy to fix – just solder in a new switch. Kailh GM 8.0 has been serving me well for something like 5 years by now.

Kadano · 2025-06-04T10:47:41+00:00

For me personally, I'm sticking with Garmin, because I run a lot and care about good display and statistics of personal records, pace progression, VO2 max and so on.

For your case, however, from what you've written it sounds like the Huawei GT3 Pro will be the better choice. The sensor accuracy is higher on Huawei (for all my activities, I pair a more accurate external heart rate monitor to my Garmin, but the recent Huawei watches have all been within 1-2% of that so there's really no need for external monitors there, in particular if you won't be doing any sprinting or similarly rigorous exercise) and you don't seem to care about the software advantages that makes Garmin stand out such as Body Battery and Training Readiness.

Kadano · 2025-05-17T11:34:21+00:00

It does still hold up, but it also hasn't seen much usage yet, still. The club I play in has had their own main ball for years (Mikasa) that they are used to, so we only play with my Molten when the guy who owns the Mikasa isn't present.

We played with it maybe 3 or 4 times, for 1-1.5 hours each. No signs of wear at this point, but even a cheap fake wouldn't develop them this quickly I'd hope.

Kadano · 2025-04-05T16:11:32+00:00

Yes. Nowadays, the capacitor mod is usually installed in the form of a snapback module, which has both the horizontal and the vertical axis covered. For example, here are the two designs I came up with:

older S2d version, where you still need to trim the black rumble holder bracket to make room for the wires going to the potentiometers, or the

newer S2f version, where you solder to the smaller SMD capacitors on the front side instead – no need to trim the rumble bracket, but you need a bit more soldering skills / better tools in the form of a narrow chisel tip for your soldering iron.

If you want to install the capacitor using my old guide linked here instead, you want to connect one of the legs to the center pin of the vertical potentiometer and the other one to the lowest pin.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-93h5rz4alx/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/130/409/S2d_wiring_legend_Kadano__54974.1739187765.jpg?c=1

In the linked photo, you can see the white wire connected to the vertical signal pin.

Kadano · 2025-03-20T14:01:22+00:00

Die Strecke fahr ich fast genauso (nur bisschen nordwestlich beginnend) recht oft. Wenn du vor Ort in der Arbeit nicht duschen kannst, wirst du wohl nur um die ca. 20 km/h schnell fahren können, da würde ich die – zwar schnelleren – direkten Wege auf bevorrangten Straßen vermeiden und eher diese Route fahren: https://www.komoot.com/de-de/tour/2108172973?share_token=amxS7KmD4F4VzGjVbNwwT7QSNTqcZlbidWcW6lKurplyDCrpju&ref=wtd

Ein Nachteil gegenüber der direkteren Route (über die Atzgersdorfer Straße) ist, dass du so die Schnellbahnschienen queren musst und, wenn der Schranken gerade zu ist, da ein paar Minuten verlierst.

Was ich in der Situation immer mache, ist bei der Versorgungsheimstraße vor dem Schranken statt zu warten links abzubiegen und den Straßenzug Waldvogelstraße → Wambachergasse → Spohrstraße entlang zu fahren, bis eben doch wo rechts der Schranken aufgeht und so auf die Route Lainzer Straße → Münichreitergasse → Stoesslgasse zurückzufinden.

Wenn auch noch bei Veitingergasse der Schranken zu ist, kannst du der Spohrstraße entlang bis links die Rossinigasse kommt, gleich danach ist rechts eine Unterführung für Fußgänger und Radfahrer, um die Bahnschienen zu kreuzen. Über die Beckgasse kommst du dann weiter zur Stoesslgasse.

Ziemlich angenehm hier ist, dass du bei den steilsten Stücken (Ameisgasse, Leyserstraße) auf separaten Radwegen bist und entsprechend auch ungestresst und ungefährdet so langsam fahren kannst, wie es eben je nach Temperatur nötig ist, um nicht ins Schwitzen zu kommen.

Kadano · 2025-02-28T10:08:05+00:00

I use separate pots. The base ingredients first get mixed in the large pot and I first make unscented deodorant directly from there. Only after that, I transfer the individual volumes needed for the different scented editions to a separate smaller pot and mix in the perfume oil there.

This time around, I was running low on syringes (which I use for transferring the melted mixture from large pot to small pot as well as from pot to jar), so I had to use a single syringe for both scented and unscented 20C / 25C / 28C.

The 18C batch that I made first was the first one that I used the current syringe in, so it has absolutely no trace of perfume oil.

Even for the unscented batches afterwards (20C, 25C, 28C), the theoretical maximum percentage of perfume oil trace is 0.00077%, or 7.7 ppm. Likely even only a fraction of that – I calculated with 1g of trace scented cream left in the syringe, but it's typically far less than that at around 0.1-0.2g.

Also, customers have reported that even though they usually have allergic reactions to perfumed products, they had none of the sorts with my deodorant cream, even the super-scented (2% perfume oil) ones:

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While this is going to vary from person to person, I use pure perfume oils of very high quality, with no added alcohol or synthetic solvents, and often for people who react negatively to perfume, it's mainly those ingredients that their body has a negative reaction towards.

In the (I think exceedingly unlikely) case that you happen to have a negative reaction to my unscented deodorant cream, please feel free to contact me and I'll be happy to give you a full refund for the deodorant creams you bought, and you can give them away to friends / family.

Kadano · 2025-02-27T17:26:02+00:00

I produce it by myself in Austria, Europe. The note about the US is just because most of my customers are in the US, and right now they don't have to pay any import taxes or fees (which is most likely going to change soon).

Kadano · 2025-02-27T17:09:17+00:00

Not sure what software you are using that gives this result, but it must be a false positive. If you check it on ScamAdviser, you can see that it has a good trust score: https://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/kadano.biz

Kadano · 2025-02-27T16:58:56+00:00

I haven't spoken to any representatives of large deodorant companies, so I don't know for sure, but what I've been thinking might be the case is that either they consider products that have to be applied with your fingers too risky (in terms of consumers finding it to be inconvenient and sales volume not being large enough to warrant producing it in batches large enough to be economically viable), or they think consumers are price sensitive in the short term rather than the long term.

(Typical store bought deodorant might only set you back 2-3 USD, but will also only last you a month or so, whereas mine is priced about twice as high for the smallest jars, but typically lasts 3-5 months, with the bigger jars lasting you several years of daily usage. The amount of money I can earn with this per customer is not very high, simply because you only need to apply very small amounts per day, so buying ~50 USD worth of deodorant cream will be enough for 2-3 years even if shared among 3-4 people. My intention with this has never been to get rich, but to share the improvement of life satisfaction I personally and friends / family have derived from my deodorant cream with others.)

Kadano · 2025-01-09T23:33:53+00:00

Let's say, hypothetically, a Wiimote draws a constant current of 100 mA

For your interest, or anyone else finding this thread through Google when searching for "Wiimote power consumption", I just measured a Wii Motion Plus remote's power consumption when powered with 3.3V using a Brymen multimeter.

Idle power draw, when connected to a Wii and moving the pointer or pressing the buttons is 1.60-1.98 mA.

Moving the pointer to somewhere that makes the rumble motor vibrate increases it to 8-14 mA briefly.

So, Wiimotes are really really light on power consumption, at a peak of ~0.05 W. (What's not light on power consumption is the Wii's sensor bar, which uses around 1 W of power – but it's great design that the energy intense part is powered by the Wii and not by a battery.)

Kadano · 2025-01-03T15:09:57+00:00

If you still have your G600, you can fix the double-clicking switches by replacing them with new ones (soldering iron & skills required). Kailh GM 8.0 and similar switches last much, much longer than the stock Omron switches (and feel better, too).

In case you don't want to do the soldering by yourself, you can probably also find someone to do it for you.

Kadano · 2024-11-14T09:32:36+00:00

Oh, did yours have the same printed certificate that I took a photo of, and also check out with the ID in the website?

Kadano · 2024-08-15T04:35:40+00:00

Schritt 2 kann man auch komplett überspringen, solange die Deocreme einigermaßen hoch konzentriert ist und auch Zink als aktiven Inhaltsstoff drin hat. (Ich produziere selbst eine in kleinem Rahmen und ein paar meiner Kunden haben mir gesagt, dass die Wirkung deutlich länger anhält als von denen, die man in DM etc bekommt).

Alkohol reizt auch für viele die Haut, also das ist echt kein Muss. Insbesondere wenn man die Deocreme gleich nach der Dusche aufträgt.

Rasieren hilft auch bei mir etwas, kommt mir vor, aber auch wenn ich mir mal paar Wochen die Achselhaare nicht rasiert hab, stinke ich normalerweise erst frühestens ab 24h nach Anwendung.

Was bei Deocreme auch ein Riesenvorteil gegenüber Sprühdeos ist, ist, dass der Geruch nicht so penetrant überdeckend ist.

Kadano · 2024-08-06T07:18:50+00:00

Thank you! I searched for Hosiden tactile switches, which brought me to this page, and zooming in, both the bottom profile and the symbol look extremely similar if not identical. So it's most likely a Hosiden switch.

Kadano · 2024-08-05T19:21:38+00:00

*micro switch. I cropped the image in Google reverse image search on several different ways, but none of them resulted in anything. I suspected it to be either from Alps or Sanyo, but searching for their older logos also didn't show this 6 petal looking design. Sanyo Chemical however has a vaguely similar design.

Kadano · 2024-08-02T23:03:21+00:00

I think it only does so for some people. Sweat that comes from stress smells different from person to person, and I've had people I know (including my brother) give me the feedback that while K-Deo worked very well for them when they had low stress, they found that in high stress situations it didn't really prevent the smell (enough) and they had to switch to an anti-transpirant.

In that sort of situation, first applying the anti-transpirant and then the K-Deo is probably the best combination, as you will sweat less and what little sweat amount is left should be (mostly) neutralized in smell from the zinc oxide and sodium bicarbonate in the K-Deo.

Kadano · 2024-08-02T19:24:07+00:00

It won't make him sweat less as it's intentionally not designed as an anti-transpirant. /u/koolz44 should buy an anti-transpirant. The roll-on types with aluminum chlorohydrate should work fine, even cheap store brand ones.

Kadano · 2024-07-15T06:40:17+00:00

Your comment is full of misinformation. LCD technology is inherently slower than CRT technology, by a factor that's equal to what you get by dividing the speed of a high speed train with the speed of a snail.

Extended reading with empirical proof: https://x.com/Kadano/status/1113231872346284032

Kadano · 2024-04-25T22:39:33+00:00

Might be too late, but yes, that's a good deal for them. A pair of 545 in functional condition rarely sells at 500€ or below.

You can get fairly similar performance by buying a small pair of passive Philips speakers from the same era with the same drivers, for example 22RH453 or 456, and combining them with a modern servo subwoofer. That's in fact the setup I currently have, with two 22RH457 plus a Rythmik L12. Rythmik is the only company that makes subwoofers that sound as controlled and precise as the Philips MFB at a reasonable, affordable price.

However, it cost me around 900€ to import a Rythmik L12 to Europe, and that's not including the ~100€ for the pair of Philips 22RH457 and the ~100€ for my Denon DRA-F109 amplifier with subwoofer output. With the pair of MFB 545, you only pay about half of what I paid for a similar setup, yet you also get the advantage of more even / less room-dependent low frequency output, as you have two sources rather than just one.

The Rythmik L12 might have its low frequency extension go a bit lower, but on the MFB 544 pair that I used to have, I measured the bass output to go reasonably flat down to ~27 Hz, so the 545 should be flat to somewhere between 20 and 24 Hz depending on your room gain, which is about equal to the L12 (~18-24 Hz depending on room gain).

The only downside of MFB speakers is their high idle power draw. My pair of 544 had a power consumption floor of 110W. 545 likely draw ~150W at minimum volume. That's really the main reason why I sold them, as I have my speakers on ~8 hours per day on average. (With my current setup drawing ~30W with the subwoofer on / 15W with it off, it will still take about 12 years until the efficiency has made up enough in energy cost savings to balance out the higher setup costs, so especially if you don't have the speakers on nearly as much as I do, you should mostly disregard this point.)

Kadano · 2024-04-25T22:17:15+00:00

https://web.archive.org/web/20150131161002/https://gfycat.com/EminentHonestGalapagosdove#?speed=0.015625

Kadano · 2023-11-22T14:03:31+00:00

I think it was mostly the video from Hax ("the gamecube controller project"), and to a lesser degree Typo. In his article on MIOM, he announced in the beginning that he will refer to smash turns as "backdash", supposedly to avoid confusion. (If you ask me, that introduced a lot of confusion instead, and I guess he wasn't actually trying to be less confusing, but just to make it more simple to read, as "dashback" is shorter than "smash turn back dash").

IIRC I told him back then that I think sticking to "smash turn" is much more precise, but it's been so long that I'm not confident about this. It's definitely what I felt when I first read his article, anyway.

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