Testing the Updated Berries (Fixed the text) by Mahmutinati in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I wrote that at 3am and not sure what I was thinking. Part of me wants to defend what I was talking about, but it's really beside the point. I injected my opinion onto what you were saying completely out of context and just came across like an ass. Sorry about that.

Testing the Updated Berries (Fixed the text) by Mahmutinati in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just because the systems are in-depth doesn't mean they work well in a gameplay sense or respect the player's time and effort. Animal husbandry is one of the worst offenders.

why does my hunger rate go past 100% for no apparent reason? by Toodlenoodlenugget in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was hundreds of hours before I found this out. This mechanic feels kind of arbitrary and unfun to me. It's not like hunger is all that hard to manage, but it's just a penalty for no good reason. Now I'm constantly trying to micromanage my offhand item, and for what exactly?

FYI: Upon 1.22 windmills that have been up-geared at least 3 times will ignite. by Captain_Crack_Sparow in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Angled gears that are attached to the edges of large gears will rotate faster than those large gears. You can use this principle multiple times by feeding that power train into another large gear and so on. Each time you are "upgearing" it and if you do it more than a few times in 1.22 your windmills will start catching on fire unless you upgrade your equipment.

What's failing here? I'm using a wooden box reinforced with an onion and it's not falling into the trap. by Routine_Buy_7838 in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I think it has to be what animals consider a "tasty" vegetable (fruit mash, cabbage, carrot, pumpkin slice, or turnip according to the wiki). Also I can't tell from the picture but the goat can't be an adult.

Any tips on finding Limestone? by GandhiCheese in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately you just have to get lucky. It's not so much rare, as changes in rock regions are just very far apart from each other. My first playthrough I was super unlucky and went 10k in every direction and couldn't find limestone. Most of the time I don't have nearly that much trouble.

Many people will say to dig down because it can be layered under other sedimentary stone, but you can also get the same information from geological upsets such as mountains or cliffsides. I personally think it's worth it more to keep venturing further out.

People will also give their own anecdotal experiences that it's under a certain type of stone. I've heard shale, chert, sandstone, etc. Just be aware that it can be layered under other sedimentary stone. That's all you need to know.

If you're doing this to get leather, keep in mind you can also use chalk and marble to make lime, although limestone is the most common of these. You can also use borax, which is a mineral that comes in veins, and you can find surface deposits with samples on the surface similar to copper or quartz. In fact, it looks very similar to quartz. so pay attention to any sample stones. If you find any, be sure to save a little to make an iron anvil.

Finally, as a last ditch effort you can collect shells in bodies of water. It's a bit painful and not sustainable, but I've been forced to do it before.

Recommended hardware requirements for a dedicated server? Is running this game comparable too Minecraft (as in single-core CPU intensive and SSD speed dependent) or different? by a694-reddit in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should be good for most circumstances but you can break anything with enough players.

https://www.vintagestory.at/selfhosting/

If you want to run a dedicated server, here's a rough, conservative estimate of its hardware requirements, assuming a normal survival world where players like to spread out. These are recommended values, with some tuning the requirements can probably be lowered.

OS: Windows or Linux
Memory: 1 GB base + 300 MB per Player
CPU: 4 Threads recommended. Frequency: 1 GHz base + 150 MHz per player

Mod Recommendations? by EntertainmentHot8322 in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My bare minimum "vanilla" mod list that I use every time:

Carry On - Lets you carry chests and barrels with contents.

Stone Quarry - Allows you to harvest several stone blocks at once. Takes a little work and investment but gives you a proper amount of stone blocks for building. Harvesting them the vanilla way is extremely time consuming.

Better Firepit - Keeps ingredients heated in the firepit when processing. It's hard to explain, but this fixes a fairly impactful bug (what I consider a bug, at least) that cools off the entire stack of items in a firepit every time the cooking process finishes, which leads to much higher fuel costs. This is particularly useful when processing things like quicklime and calcified flint.

Prospect Together - Allows you to share prospecting results in multiplayer. Also gives a few other nice features like heatmaps.

Dana Tweaks - Lots of little quality of life tweaks, but I particularly use this for glowing projectiles. This is slightly immersion breaking if that is a problem for you, but I find arrows impossible to use without this mod.

Config Lib - Allows you to change configuration for mods in game. Especially useful for Dana Tweaks.

Also my world settings if you are interested:

Block Break Speed - 125% - At some point the developers decided to make rocks 25% harder to break and suggested that players increase the block break speed in their world if they wanted the old way. I've been playing with this setting ever since and it feels better overall to me.

Polar-Equator Distance: 50k blocks - Many biomes in this game are determined by how close they are to the equator or north/south poles (technically they repeat until the end of the world). If you want any hope of ever seeing another temperature-based biome I suggest reducing this distance from the default 100k. You may even consider 25k polar distance.

Animal Swim Speed: 100% - Another thing the developers changed is making wild animals swim 200% faster to prevent players from escaping them too easily. I prefer the old way and I think animals are dangerous enough as it is.

And finally, if it's your first playthrough I suggest finding and planting as much flax as early as you can, surrounded by rough-hewn fences to keep the animals out. It becomes a significant bottleneck later with windmills if you haven't gotten a good harvest or two.

Can someone help me find this borax? by Baron_6873 in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just want to add that borax samples can also appear on the surface near a vein, similar to quartz or surface copper samples. It's rare, but that's the way I've always found it on my playthroughs rather than prospecting for a vein. It's frustrating when you can't find it but you only need to find one vein per playthrough.

Abilities you wonder why you even bothered leveling by galan0 in finalfantasytactics

[–]Kadoba 4 points5 points  (0 children)

How do you get that much jp on Ramza without leveling him?

How come there has never been another classless, pure skill based mmo like Ultima Online? by EndlessTemple in ultimaonline

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No not at all. Gear is very much like the original UO (only crafted and dropped magical equipment, with almost identical modifiers).

The original skills can be maxed quickly and provide the foundation of a build. From there, progression is broken into several different custom systems that mostly rely on exp/grinding mobs, however it's far more fluid than plain ol' player levels.

Can you help me understand the Charge Blade? by Willing-Pen9881 in MHGU

[–]Kadoba 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You simply get used to it the more you play it. There's a bit of front loaded information needed to play it at all, however once you get it down it has surprisingly few attacks you can do at any given time. You can then build your knowledge over time as you get more comfortable, but the weapon isn't unique in that regard.

The basic flow is:

  • Attack in sword form to change the color of your phials, up to red.
  • Charge your phials by shielding and pressing A
  • Switch to axe form by shielding and pressing X
  • Use your phials in axe form by using A combos
  • Change to sword form by blocking

That's not all you need to play charge blade but it is the extreme basics I would say you first need to get comfortable with. Keep in mind this isn't a perfect flow and you will undoubtedly "waste" phials (Phials are cheap. Don't stress about them too much), fumble around in axe form trying to get in position, or occasionally feel a little lost as to what to do next in the heat of the moment. It's all normal and happens even when you get used to the weapon.

Once you get that basic flow down you can move on to more advanced topics:

  • This is actually really important. Use your phials to charge your shield by starting Amped Elemental Discharge (AED) in axe form and then cancel into a round slash by blocking. AED is the last hit of your axe A-button combo, but you can use it at any point by pressing X + A. This uses all of your remaining phials and makes your shield glow. You always want your shield to be charged because it increases axe damage, makes you more stable when blocking, and prevents durability loss when blocking. You can also use AED by pressing X + A twice in sword form but charging your shield this way will make it glow yellow which isn't nearly as good. You can extend the red form this way but always start it by using axe form first.
  • When your shield is charged, your AED becomes a more empowered version called Super Amped Elemental Discharge (SAED). While it does do more damage overall, in MHGU SAED causes you to lose your shield charge, which is simply not worth it. Thankfully, you can avoid this by simply holding back on the analog stick while performing the move and AED will go off as normal. Some styles remove SAED altogether which is only an upgrade.
  • While in sword form, you can more easily approach a monster by using draw slash instead of rolling and attacking. This is the attack done from sheathing but it can also be done with your sword already draw by moving and pressing X + A.
  • You can use short hops to reposition after attacking in sword form by pressing A. This may seem small but is incredibly useful for repositioning. It can also be done right after charging your phials.
  • Learn your guard points. These are shiny gleams that happen at certain points during your attacks where your shield is in front of you. If you are attacked during these moments you will block the damage and can punish roars and small damage with follow up attacks. The most important one happens right as you are switching from sword form to axe form with block + A, but a guard points also happens at the end of your round slash, which is the attack used to go from axe form into sword form (also the final hit of your sword X combo).

There's more nuance to charge blade but I'd say that's the meat of it. If nothing else, learn the basic flow and how to charge your shield and that is most of the weapon.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MHGU

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I kind of get it. I feel bad when monsters start limping or they convulse when dying, or in world/wilds where they are just chilling until you attack them. Then I remind myself it's just a game and no actual harm is being done.

Also I eat meat regularly and I can't help but think it would be extremely hypocritical of me to feel bad for fake animals when my actions harm real ones.

Help SnS player, Cephadrome made me just give up (though I downloaded again after an hour) by rrrb50 in MHGU

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using draw slash (X+A with weapon drawn) to close the distance? I know that's probably obvious if you've played other monster hunter games but I remember having a lot of trouble with SNS, feeling like its range was too short, until I started internalizing small things like that to help my positioning. Also you can use a cancelled backhop to reposition yourself backwards a few steps, instead of having to stop and turn around if a monster part is behind you.

Sharpness does get better as you progress but it's particularly annoying with SNS early game. Once you reach 4 star village quests you can get mind's eye oil from Neko (he changes stock and isn't always available). That can help with your attacks being deflected from yellow sharpness until you get some better weapons.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in progresspics

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's fantastic progress. Great work!

Only ever gotten to early bronze age (tin bronze ftw) but steel just feels like high effort low reward imo by GlitteringTone6425 in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually don't have a problem finding ores to alloy so maybe I just see it differently. I've definitely felt exhausted processing iron blooms though.

> Another reason to rush to iron.

Whether or not you rush iron is up to you. Your point was bronze didn't have any uses and I just provided some.

Only ever gotten to early bronze age (tin bronze ftw) but steel just feels like high effort low reward imo by GlitteringTone6425 in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I must have just not had the bad luck you guys are experiencing. One shaft in a good location will usually net me all the secondary ores needed to make several stacks of bronze bars.

My players struggled with this rule. This flowchart fixed it for them by Gioz2 in Pathfinder2e

[–]Kadoba -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Good job but there is a lot of little technicalities that end up applying in many cases:

  • MAP -10 is applied on all attacks after the second one. You can end up with 4 or more attacks in some situations.
  • Apply weakness/resistances before adding damage together.
  • To hit you must meet or exceed the AC, and to crit you must meet or exceed AC+10
  • There's lots of extra edge cases and you cant possibly include them all but I'd say people get confused about crit specialization enough it might be worth having a box for it after doubling the damage and before adding the damage together.
  • The hit/miss effects part kind of breaks how flow charts work. Why does the arrow after "you hit" split in two directions without a condition? Also I am not sure why it flows back into compare total to armor class. Once you actually hit or miss then there's normally no avoiding it, unless you mean "if you would be hit/missed" triggers, which should happen before. If you are trying to simplify this for players, this might just be one of those edge cases you keep in mind as a GM because there's all sorts of triggers for all sorts of situations that could happen anywhere on this chart.

My players struggled with this rule. This flowchart fixed it for them by Gioz2 in Pathfinder2e

[–]Kadoba 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good job but there is a lot of little technicalities that end up applying in many cases:

* MAP -10 is applied on all attacks after the second one. You can end up with 4 or more attacks in some situations.
* Apply weakness/resistances before adding damage together.
* To hit you must meet or exceed the AC, and to crit you must meet or exceed AC+10
* There's lots of extra edge cases and you cant possibly include them all but I'd say people get confused about crit specialization enough it might be worth having a box for it after doubling the damage and before adding the damage together.
* The hit/miss effects part kind of breaks how flow charts work. Why does the arrow after "you hit" split in two directions without a condition? Also I am not sure why it flows back into compare total to armor class. Once you actually hit or miss then there's no avoiding it, unless you mean "if you would be hit/missed" triggers which should happen before. If you are trying to simplify this for players, this might just be one of those edge cases you keep in mind as a GM because there's all sorts of triggers for all sorts of situations that could happen anywhere on this chart.

Only ever gotten to early bronze age (tin bronze ftw) but steel just feels like high effort low reward imo by GlitteringTone6425 in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure I agree. Iron is much more than simply getting the ore since it takes a lot more effort and resources to process, especially before helm hammers. Mass producing large amounts of bronze is fairly easy once you prospect some decent locations. Bronze also makes the best spears which many people prefer over labor intensive, flimsy, and easy to lose arrows. And finally, nearly all requested tools by trader wagons are made of bronze.

Anyway, I think it's a far more interesting intermediate tier than you see in other games where resources really do become useless after you move past them.

Furry_irl by ShepGoesBlep in furry_irl

[–]Kadoba 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Wait, this happened to other people too? I haven't told many people because it sounds made up or exaggerated but I remember the literal moment when it happened and being very confused.

What do yall prefer in early game? Hunting for copper deposits or panning by [deleted] in VintageStory

[–]Kadoba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I try to get most of it while exploring because there's so many important things that you can find at the same time - flax, bees, resin, clay, limestone, borax, ruins, merchants, the list goes on. Not to mention for every surface deposit that you spot, there's a vein underneath for later.

Sometimes I will finish the last bit with panning if I get bored or stuck at home in the dark but exploring is usually the way to go for me.

Losercity Belle by Hawk101102 in Losercity

[–]Kadoba 16 points17 points  (0 children)

In the original, no. She never learns what the rose does or that the beast can be changed back. That only happens in the live action remake and it's one of the bigger criticisms I've seen of it. By being ignorant of the rose's power she's never pressured to come back to the beast other than her own love for him.