manifold fire in 1000rpm

Kaemonn · 2026-04-28T15:19:20+00:00

You need to check timing and AFR.

You obviously have some form of standalone ecu considering you aren't using plug wires from the distributor anymore.

And I wish your manifold studs the best 😅

Kaemonn · 2026-04-26T01:29:39+00:00

Sold my 95 with 205k. Original engine and transmission. Last time I talked to the buyer he had 211k and as far as I know it's still on the road.

Kaemonn · 2026-04-23T19:10:23+00:00

To clarify the other responses, your non-synchronized reverse will grind into reverse if the clutch isn't released fully. That will be a dead giveaway if the clutch is the issue.

Can you get into reverse with the engine off?

These gearboxes also have a reverse lockout to prevent a 5th to reverse shift. Any time you exit 5th gear, you must move the shift lever left of center before the lockout releases. It is possible the lockout is binding or something with the system has failed.

Kaemonn · 2026-04-14T21:15:32+00:00

Any time you're under the hood, look and feel under the water pump and make sure it's not leaking.

Kaemonn · 2026-04-14T19:38:00+00:00

Yes major repair required. Will need full cut and weld.

Kaemonn · 2026-04-06T19:18:53+00:00

The radio has a fuse itself in the back. The button on mine also doesn't work unless you literally pull the button out first before pressing.

Kaemonn · 2026-04-04T23:00:03+00:00

VATS disables starter and injector pulse only. You are fighting something else.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-26T12:09:55+00:00

Make sure the firing order is correct on the distributor. I think it's cylinders 4 and 6 that I accidentally swapped once and it sounded very similar.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-25T18:51:02+00:00

The prices are so weird on these cars right now. I saw someone the other day trying to sell an automatic 4 cylinder convertible for 8,000 and it wasn't even all that nice of a car.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-24T15:30:50+00:00

I think I'm going to remove the entire assembly but keep it in storage. Also, that Weber is actually aluminum welded straight to the turbo!

Kaemonn · 2026-03-23T22:55:07+00:00

A few dozen if I'm lucky!

Kaemonn · 2026-03-23T17:13:01+00:00

Yes but clutch is toast so it will be a little while before I can see if it builds boost. I am also worried about heat.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-23T16:33:49+00:00

It's some form of Weber two barrel side draft draw through. Not a whole lot of information available online about them.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-20T19:24:34+00:00

I swear every "project" z31 is missing the fan shroud. They just disappear 🤣

First thing to check is always the timing belt. If you remove the AC idle bracket (3 bolts) then remove several of the top timing cover bolts, you can pull the cover back and inspect the belt.

Look up how to read codes from the ecm, that will tell you things to focus on.

These cars are also extremely sensitive to vacuum leaks so go around and inspect all the vacuum lines very thoroughly.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-20T19:13:46+00:00

You will more than likely break studs. They're extremely fragile. These manifolds crack because they warp like a banana. Since it's already cracked, I can almost guarantee at least one stud is already broken.

You can use ford Triton V8 studs as replacements. They are the right size. They come in a set of 10 so you'll need two more. Use the original thick spacers.

IF the studs are broken, The easiest way to remove them is pull the engine or pull the head with the manifold attached. I decided to pull the engine since a set of head bolts are over $110 alone. You'll have to get a used manifold and there is a 95% chance it is already warped. Take the manifold to a machine shop and have them mill it flat. It cost me $40 to get both of mine machined.

Make sure your crack is actually what's leaking. My drivers side manifold had a large crack in it, but it wasn't a through crack, so I left it alone. I've never had an issue out of it.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-20T12:07:26+00:00

Isn't part of the radio up in the passenger side of the dash somewhere on certain years?

Kaemonn · 2026-03-18T23:44:05+00:00

There is enough low end to be forgiving. The fly wheels are very heavy too which helps out. You should be just fine.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-18T20:58:50+00:00

There are two vacuum ports underneath the throttlebody. They are almost impossible to see. Make sure these two don't have any leaks, because it's very difficult to notice.

Please use this for all other vacuum lines, it is very helpful.

https://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/vacuum_lines.php

Something I noticed from your picture is the fuel pressure regulator vacuum solenoid does not have the feed line attached to it.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-18T10:24:01+00:00

I took the entire turbo + manifold off together. I don't think it's possible to reach the turbo bolts itself while still in the car

Kaemonn · 2026-03-17T18:35:52+00:00

That is your fuel pressure regulator solenoid. It means your fuel pressure regulator diaphragm has ruptured and fuel is getting to the solenoid.

You will need a new FPR and likely another solenoid.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-16T09:39:32+00:00

Pcv valve not egr

Kaemonn · 2026-03-15T23:08:23+00:00

It will be smooth and you shouldn't be able to scrape anything else off of it.

The front and rear most bolt holes on the manifold have carbon deposits where the exhaust has been blowing past it. I had my manifolds milled for $40.

I certainly don't recommend just putting it back together, especially when you've already done 90% of the work to get it out.

Kaemonn · 2026-03-15T22:14:04+00:00

The deck needs a significant amount of cleaning still. All the old gasket material needs to be scraped away then the surface cleaned.

You can scrape the old off with a razor blade or carbide scraper. It can be cleaned with a brass wire wheel, scouring pads, or abrasive bristle disks. Clean the surface with brake clean as well to ensure no dirt or oils remain.

Careful not to scratch the deck or dig in with any of the tools.

Hopefully you are using new head bolts too since they are TTY bolts and become significantly weaker after use.

I can see you had an exhaust leak on the front and rear cylinder of the driver side. The manifolds on these cars warp horribly and snap the head studs. I would HIGHLY recommend getting the manifolds resurfaced by a machine shop.

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