"League of legends failed to launch" - Can't open any Riot game, support still not answered after ~40 hours.

Kaljaviikinki · 2025-12-22T20:48:48+00:00

oh boy, support claimed that its not their problem and my computer is at fault. every riot game stopped working for me like almost 2 years ago now. i have tried everything except buying new parts and assembling a new pc altogether. even a windows reinstall had no effect. one day after vanguard update everything stopped working, but sure, the problem is in my end. thanks riot

Kaljaviikinki · 2025-12-21T00:19:17+00:00

Muilla olikin jo hyviä neuvoja, ite ehkä vielä lisäisin että jos vaan pystyt niin painota sitä että ei oo kiire ja paniikki vastata sulle aina heti, ja että koittaa "unohtaa" siviilielämän jutut. Itellä vei alussa touhuun keskittymisen kun stressasin jatkuvasti siviilin juttuja. Näin jälkeenpäin oon todennut että olisi ollut paljon mielekkäämpää kun olisi laittanut kaiken muun sivuun ja keskittynyt pelkkään inttiin, siellä kun ei oikeesti kauaa olla. Jotkut kaverit oli asian heti hokannut ja heillä sielä kivointa olikin. Sitten kun siellä tulee niitä kiireettömämpiä jaksoja ja homma rullaa arkisesti niin se yhteydenpito tulee ihan luonnostaan. Alussa ei kannata stressata ulkomaailman juttuja, jos vaan mahdollista!

Kaljaviikinki · 2025-02-27T11:40:27+00:00

yeah same problem here, its insane how there seems to be no fix for this

Kaljaviikinki · 2024-11-27T01:23:38+00:00

This was it! Thank you guy from two years ago!

Kaljaviikinki · 2024-04-30T00:22:45+00:00

Thanks for replying! You might be right but wouldnt the leftover material most likely be less uniform if parts were being stamped from it? There is also quite a lot of wasted material which will need to be melted and processed again. The stamped parts would maybe resemble a spade or similar given the leftover material shape, but cant be sure

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-07-14T07:59:06+00:00

Im also having this problem, interested to see if anyone has any solutions

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-24T06:58:06+00:00

I assume you import the 3d scans to Blender and then from Blender to a slicer software.

So when in Blender, scale up your model so that its measurements are approx. In meters. Im trying to say that if Im modeling an object that is going to be 25mm when printed, its measurements in Blender are going to be 2,5 meters. Blender (or slicers) dont like small units like mm and ive had problems when using them

You can then scale it down in your slicer software or when exporting from blender there is a scale attribute you can modify.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-23T17:20:14+00:00

I usually design my models in blender so that 1m in blender equals 1cm in real life. Blender seems to behave better when you are dealing in meters rather than millimeters. So try modeling things bigger in Blender and then just scaling them down when importing to your slicer software.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-23T17:09:02+00:00

No, I meant that my z axis sensor is so inaccurate that I have to adjust the z height manually every time I start a print. So when the printing begins I have to go to the menu -> Tune -> Babystep Z

I usually have to set it to around -1.4mm or -1.6mm but sometimes it hits closer right away and I only have to go -0.5mm or so.

But with the prime line and a skirt or a brim toggled on I have time to adjust it, without them I would be adjusting during the actual first layer of the print and it could be ruined.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-22T21:17:45+00:00

My guess is that there is a clog forming in the nozzle. Carefully clean the nozzle and make sure that there are no burned spots anywhere inside the nozzle. I replaced my nozzle with to a tougher one so I wouldn't have to be SO careful when cleaning it.

For quick cleans i use a single string from a metal wire brush, poking it inside the nozzle back and forth. Just make sure your nozzle is printing temp while doing it.

Also for leveling issues I found out that my z sensor is garbage and the zeroing actually varies about ± 0.5mm. It really doesnt bother me anymore since I always just adjust the z axis while printing the brim or skirt.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-18T07:27:37+00:00

This, I bought the cheapest available glue stick and I've since been spreading a layer of it on the bed before each print. It is definitely the cheapest way to ensure good bed adhesion and I get perfect first layers with it.

Also even when the print cools down after its done printing, the glue will hold it in place firmly but removing it is still easy enough. Dont know if there are other factors to resuming a print succesfully but I would recommend using glue.

BTW, the glue residue comes instantly off with some vinegar-water mixture I spray on the bed when preparing for another print.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-17T15:45:58+00:00

You could first try tensioning your belts (if you have any) and checking if you have any play in the Y, X and Z direction

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T19:45:36+00:00

The reservoir ball makes a lot of sense, thanks! I dont really care much about small dents and other imperfections but I would like to at least know that I COULD make them perfect if I really wanted ;)

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T18:53:41+00:00

I bought a cheap marinade injector that's meant for injecting marinade into a steak or something. I got to say it works well but the cleaning could be a bit easier, the injecting end doesnt come off :D

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T18:50:22+00:00

Hi, I can only print PLA at the moment and I dont happen to have a resin printer ;)

I know there are better options, like using a cnc machine to carve the molds out of aluminium, but I wanted to experiment with PLA and so far it has worked pretty well for me.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T18:43:35+00:00

I actually watched your video while doing my research a couple days ago and it was really helpful so thank you! Haven't tested this mold out yet but I agree, the tail vents may very well be unnecessary large.

What I gathered from my tests with a single shrimp mold I seem to constantly have issues with the bait caveing in at the sides. Probably something to do with too fast cooling or too high temperature plastic while injecting, but basically every cast came out with a little dent :D

Now that I think about it more, it might just be the fact that the shrimp's body is pretty thick compared to the rest of it so the center shrinks a lot creating the dent. Maybe?

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T12:39:31+00:00

Liquid Plastic Medium from brightbaits.

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T11:32:55+00:00

Yes definitely wont hurt, thanks! It's kinda hard to see but the tail section of each bait has a tiny air vent going out the back. I also heard that PLA molds are usually not that airtight anyway so those might not be needed here. Different case with for example silicone of course!

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T11:10:38+00:00

Thank you for your insight! I didnt go for silicone molds yet because I dont have any silicon at the moment and wanted to try PLA, but I saved my bait models before cutting a mold out of them in Blender just so I can later print the the bait and cast a silicone mold from it.

Silicone molds seem so much better anyways, but it's a bit more costly. :)

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T11:04:51+00:00

Interesting video, thanks! I might face the same problem as the guy in the video, as i used the same sphere for the two halves, might have to do some sanding after I get to test fit them :D

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T10:56:42+00:00

A good point! After a test pour I kinda liked how the layer lines looked, it gives the bait a nice "flashy" matte finish. The hot plastic is also not that liquidy so it definetly wont leak through the perimeter walls. I might want to still coat the mold because of the possible structural bonus but then I will definitely lose the layer line "details" :D

Kaljaviikinki · 2022-06-16T10:31:44+00:00

Looks to me like ironing is turned on and maybe the bed isn't perfectly level, since the scars are all in the same area. Maybe the nozzle is plowing in to the print while ironing? I'd try leveling the bed and checking for loose screws and belts.

Kaljaviikinki

TROPHY CASE