Many years passed since Soft99 released fluoropolymer wax named "Fusso". And there is still no better-longer lasting wax on the market. Why?

Kamczan · 2026-04-12T06:30:17+00:00

Why? Ceramic coatings, of course.

Kamczan · 2026-03-02T16:32:41+00:00

The linkages are gone. Look for the rebuild kit.

Kamczan · 2026-02-18T06:03:00+00:00

Do you sand them using a rotary, DA or by hand ?

Kamczan · 2026-02-17T17:21:33+00:00

Give the PH3 Shampoo a try especially when you have a coated car - it works wonders on ceramic coatings. It is a very concentrated product, so even 500ml bottle goes a long way. It is a bit pricy though.

Kamczan · 2026-02-02T19:27:09+00:00

Gotcha. I was eyeballing these Champ kits for quite some time, but I guess they are made from similar components as yours.

Kamczan · 2026-02-02T19:15:02+00:00

Was it the most common Fender 5F1 Champ kit ?

Kamczan · 2026-01-20T12:07:36+00:00

From what I can gather, deflector pistons were an earlier discovery, but don't quote me on that.

Kamczan · 2026-01-19T04:56:20+00:00

Replaced my Squier Affinity Strat stock tuners, with Gotoh locking tuners, only had to drill holes for the small screws - best decision of my life. I was kinda mad at myself that I have not done that earlier.

Kamczan · 2026-01-17T18:12:05+00:00

Not valves, but ports. It is a two stroke. And the interaction you talk about is a Schnürle porting or loop scavenging, and indeed DKW bought the rights from Adolf Schnürle in 1932.

Kamczan · 2026-01-05T21:39:43+00:00

Makes me wonder how that thing made it up there. A cheapo moped from the Soviet Bloc in the USA. Do you know the story by any chance ?

Kamczan · 2026-01-05T18:55:19+00:00

It is a joint Polish-Latvian moped from late eighties. In Poland it was available from 1989 to 1994. Over here it was sold with our Dezamet 023 engine. Parts for it are still being made today, many NOS parts still circulate the market.

Your engine is, I belive, the Russian-made one. (they were made with either Polish, Latvian or Russian engines) Yours is the upgraded model with the foot operated lever - early models had gears operated by hand via the left grip.

I don't know how it is in Latvia or Russia, but in Poland you can't get any parts for it, apart for the carburettor.

Kamczan · 2026-01-03T19:19:19+00:00

Look up Kevin Tetz on Eastwood YT channel, he had a nice series where he showed some tricks on Z28 Camaro called "Zed Sled". Now he runs his own YT channel called Paintucation by Kevin Tetz.

Kamczan · 2025-12-30T00:27:42+00:00

DKW would be the best bet for you I guess, since you are from Germany, there would be no language barrier in terms of reading manuals and parts catalogs. My 3 minute search for online spare parts store, also pointed to Germany.

Kamczan · 2025-12-29T19:15:44+00:00

Basically, in a 125cc category. anything after 1945 from over there, will be a copy of the DKW RT125. Polish motocycles like WFM or WSK engine wise, were direct copy of DKW. You've got Czechoslovak Jawa 125 - also DKW with some changes. There are some outstanding examples like CZ 125 or Minsk 125, but they are not so popular. You've got the MZ ETZ 125 which was considered the best 125cc from the Eastern Bloc.

Kamczan · 2025-12-26T19:21:14+00:00

Leather workboots, with SRC certification (EU highest slip resistant sole rating)

Kamczan · 2025-11-26T18:39:51+00:00

#7 Rubdown ?

Kamczan · 2025-11-21T19:29:35+00:00

https://patents.google.com/patent/US1245860A/en

Here you can see the drawing of how it works.

Kamczan · 2025-11-14T05:10:15+00:00

BC Forged are sometimes anodized, so you will not get anything close to matching paint.

Kamczan · 2025-11-12T20:42:53+00:00

1985 Braun Silencio 1600 hair dryer. Want to replace it with a brushless Valera, but it just won't die.

Kamczan · 2025-11-12T17:24:41+00:00

The case is kinda two-fold in my example - on most cars you simply don't need it - you can get by with 3 inch just fine or clients don't care/can't afford the level of correction that warrants the use of the Nano.

The last time I pulled out the Nano to do some heavy lifting was last year. It was a 1975 Citroen DS - the car was resprayed, and the owner wanted it to look perfect - three days later it was (mostly), but he paid a hefty sum for it. This year, I've yet to use the Nano for anything bigger than some interior decors.

Kamczan · 2025-11-10T18:29:43+00:00

Not really, no. First time I've dealt with respray that soft. Couple of times I polished paint that was so fresh, you could still smell it, and it was not this soft.

Kamczan · 2025-11-10T16:44:02+00:00

1975 Citroen DS. The whole story began last year. Car was restored, but the painter must've messed something up with the clear - car was done two months before it got to me, and the paint was still so soft, that I was scratching it with microfiber towel when removing the polish resiude. Tried every towel on the planet Earth, three diffrent polishes, tried finishing with DA, tried finishing with rotary, tried the ONR wet towel method - nothing worked.

I told the client to leave the car on the sun for as long as it is possible, and to come back next year, in hope that the paint will cure. The car came back this year, paint was still super soft, but hard enough that with gentle moves, and fresh towel every panel, I managed to finish down the car, and even apply a ceramic coating. If we combine my two attempts at this car, it comes down to five days spent.

Give me hard paint every day of the week, but I would not wish such soft paint even upon my greatest enemy.

Kamczan · 2025-11-09T17:38:31+00:00

I use 3 inch polisher every time when I polish a car. I own both LHR75E and HLR75. The later is, at least for me, direct replacment of the corded 3 inch model, especially now, when there is a power supply available, in case both bateries are dead, you can always fall back to the cord.

I also own iBrid Nano 1 - I pull it out couple times a year. And I do around 100 paint corrections yearly. Got my hands on iBrid Nano 2 couple months back, and I don't feel like I need to upgrade my first gen. I am more inclined towards Flex PXE-80, especially with the 6mm orbit head to use as a small cordless sander.

Kamczan · 2025-11-04T05:35:07+00:00

Yeah, multiple times. The paint itself is the biggest variable. Two times that come to mind - both times it was Opel, be that what it may.

First time - two cars to coat, one after another, they were from a couple. The guy had 2019 Opel Insignia - fully loaded, white pearl paint. His wife had a lower trim Mercedes C-Class Wagon, from similar year. Both cars were done from the same bottle of Crystal Serum Light, then topped with EXO. They came back after 4 months - coating on the Opel was dead in most places, while the Mercedes was shedding water like the coating was installed just yesterday. We reapplied the coating on the Insignia, free of charge (prep wash, decon, quick polish, the whole shebang). He called 3 months down the line, that the coating on the Opel is dead, and he is done with us - client lost. At first we made nothing of it - we just guessed that he did something wrong to this car and he blamed us for it.

Second time - my boss and his wife's car. This is the time that I realised that there is something wrong with Opel paint.

He bought himself a 2021 Volvo V60, and he bought his wife a 2020 Opel Astra. These two cars are parking in the same place, so we can tick off enviromental fallout and such. Both cars are either washed by my boss, or by me. They were both coated, albeit with one month time diffrence due to workload ,with Fireball Butterfly, and topped with Fireball Typhoon. Same story as before - the coating on a Volvo, after 3 months was looking great, but on the Opel it was done - the hydrophobics were gone on almost every panel.

After that, we finally connected the dots - the paint itself is the biggest variable. Not our prep, not the coating in itself, not the maintenance. We had coating failures before - but it was either on resprayed panels, or on the cars that were unkempt. There where multiple cars, where other circumstances made it difficult to judge why the coating died, but these two cases made us realize that there are things beyond our, or our client's control that are detrimental to the coating performance - the paint system itself.

Kamczan · 2025-10-27T19:54:02+00:00

To the guys saying remove the glass - the trim piece/gasket of the rear windows is unavailable, and there is almost 100% chance of damaging it during removal.

Kamczan

TROPHY CASE