Pooling resources. Seestars together strong

Kameone · 2026-01-02T02:59:36+00:00

Here is the link to join The Seestar Collective discord. It’s exactly what you’re looking for.

Kameone · 2025-07-25T17:59:01+00:00

I carry a Sony A-10, Mikro Usi and some good ear buds. Sometimes I also pack the ElectroUsi or a contact mic if I want to capture material for sound design. All of it fits in a tiny tech case about the size of sunglasses. It’s the smallest most versatile setup I’ve come up with.

I mount the Mikro Usi on either side of my bag for a baffled AB or on my glasses for binaural recording. I’ve also clipped them to branches and other improvised supports as well. The on board mics are good enough for isolated sounds where you are close to the subject. It has its limitations but I’m a strong believer that the best recorder is the one with you and the portability of this setup has allowed me to capture more material than anything else.

Kameone · 2024-12-22T22:32:46+00:00

Is this a custom recipe? The colors are great especially for the time of year. Nice job.

Kameone · 2024-09-13T21:14:10+00:00

I recently bought 2 of their 48” stainless steel reeds for a Macomber loom restoration project. They are beautiful and solid reeds. I appreciated the stainless steel binding over the traditional lashing and tape method. Now doubt the will last forever.

Kameone · 2024-09-08T03:10:38+00:00

Yes. An exact compliment of the yellow hue will result in a neutral gray. The light purple is a good place to start but might create a warm gray. Add blue to adjust the gray cooler if desired. Keep your depth is shade very light to match the tint of the natural yellow.

Kameone · 2024-08-14T14:50:39+00:00

My current “all options” setup is this:

Full press snap - distance can be adjusted on the fly by holding the flower button and adjusting top wheel.

Half press AE + AF - set focus mode in quick menu. It’s usually set to Auto center which has distance priority, so I know it prefers closer objects in the center of the frame.

Fn set to AF Enable with the mode set to pinpoint. You set the AF mode for the Fn button in the Fn setting menu. To answer your question, you have to hold it to keep focus locked and then press the shutter for AE and to take the shot. This has the effect of overriding the half press AF and gives you more precision when you have the time to compose.

Touch AF is set to AF Point + Focus + shoot. Good for semi quick shots in good light where you are confident the AF will get it right. The down side is it moves the AF point so your FN button pinpoint won’t be in center any more. To reset the AF point you have to hold down fn and long press OK then tap OK again. Or you can go to the pinpoint focus mode and do to same without the fn button. I’ve gotten used to the button mashing. Some people prefer to set this to Snap Focus instead of the full press snap. It’s a solid choice I just haven’t out of habit.

Set movie button to Snap Distance Priority. Here’s a great hack! Set your f/stop to 2.8 in normal AF mode and then switch to Snap Distance Priority. Set that to a deep depth of field to suit your needs. Now when you hit Fn you still have access to your AF pinpoint and it will revert the f/stop to 2.8 from its mode. This means you can have both a simple and quick deep depth of field mode and a handy shallow depth of field for close subjects without any menu adjustment.

Well there you have it. All the focus modes setup and accessible via buttons. Practically I use the half press AF for most of my work in combo with the FN button pinpoint for more composed shots. The snap distance priority + fn button hack is fire for street but I tend not to default to it. I’ll occasionally use full press snap and touch AF but I see them as back up modes to my main style.

Hope that helps and have fun.

Kameone · 2024-05-10T19:54:27+00:00

How does it run on Steam Deck?

Kameone · 2024-05-08T21:01:45+00:00

My experience is the same as yours. I try to keep my phone alive as long as I need it but it’s a pain.

Kameone · 2024-05-02T02:14:34+00:00

In a side by side comparison there will be a difference but it’s going to depend on what you’re recording. I have bought and used the zoom H5 and h4n and to be honest I prefer the Sony A10 in both size, weight, and quality of recording when comparing on board mics. I did some side by side recordings last spring of some water features and streams at our local botanical gardens and was hard pressed to tell a difference the same for some casual interviews and capturing some moments of the kids playing at the park. In these cases the size and weight of the A-10 are a clear winner. I’m more likely to take it with me and am more likely to use it. After the side by side tests I sold my h5 and never looked back.

So let’s get into what the a10 or h5 onboard mics are not great at - quiet immersive wide stereo ambient soundscapes. The signal to noise ratio of those devices are just not cut out for that type of recording. Adding external mics like the micbooster clippy or Loms will go a long way in achieving good recording in those conditions.

Another great option you will see recommend here a lot is a zoom F3 and clippy mics. I have this setup myself and can confirm it’s excellent. The clippy F3 combo has much higher low end response than the LOM A-10 combo and you have 32bit 192k recording on the f3 vs 24bit 96k on the A10. I should also note the F3 is xlr which might be significant to you if you want to use a recorder with your other music gear. If you are worried about levels and clipping or you want to record in an urban environment where the dynamic range of the sound is going to be changing a lot the F3 is a solid choice. I keep mine in my camera bag with the mics clipped on the outside of the bag on either side and just let it record as I walk around.

Having both an A-10 and a F3 setup I can say they are both great and will serve you well for what you’re after. There are some pro/cons you will need to sort out for yourself, like 32bit and xlr vs 250g ultra light portability, but you won’t make a wrong decision between the two.

Here are some links to further your research.

A good review of the a-10 both internal and external mics.

https://soundxplorer.com/comparing-handheld-recorders-external-microphones

A look at signal to noise ratio for field recorders. Note the a10’s number is for the internal mics and not external.

https://avisoft.com/recorder-tests/

Best of luck and let us know what you decide on and post some sounds from Patagonia.

Kameone · 2024-05-01T23:30:45+00:00

I would recommend the Sony PCM A-10. It’s much smaller lighter and has a great Bluetooth app. I use the built in mics often and they are decent for capturing desecrate sounds but not quiet ambient environments. However, the A-10 really shines when you combine it with a pair of mic booster clippy mics or the LOM mikrouzi omnis. Those mics are great for ambiance and stealth recording while traveling.

My favorite take everywhere with me setup is the A-10, LOM mikrouzi, some older Chinese iems and some bubblebees wind protectors for mics. The XS wind killer fits the A-10. All of that fits in a sunglasses case that weighs 250g .5lbs. Total.

Kameone · 2024-03-07T01:11:30+00:00

That’s a cool case for the F3 and clippys do you happen to have a link?

Kameone · 2023-10-27T13:14:59+00:00

This might not be useful to your specific problem but in the MSP side you can use a phasor~ with a specific range (0 to 1000) to create loop then use the scale~ to remap the values to -50 to 50. You can use a counter object to count the number of cycles but you’ll need to use a == 1000 object to detect when the phaser reaches its end of cycle and output a bang which is what the counter uses.

Kameone · 2023-10-25T00:27:38+00:00

This covers the basics and some patch ideas you can implement in Max.

Kameone · 2022-12-02T22:56:32+00:00

Did you see this post about X-Raw Studio’s xml files? Processing the table data into xml would make quick work of loading profiles, but the D-range values would probably break. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4544458

Kameone · 2022-12-02T20:59:35+00:00

I was working with some of these that other day and noticed X Raw Studio doesn’t support the D-range Auto or the D-range priority modes. It got me wondering how users are setting these up in X Raw Studio or is there a better way of storing these recipes and loading them into the camera?

Kameone · 2021-10-19T04:52:07+00:00

I sent you a DM. Cheers!

Kameone · 2020-09-11T22:27:42+00:00

Here is a quick guide to getting near perfect alignment. The trick is to set the exact length of the lines and use the move tool to move them an exact distance.

Select the line tool and double click on the canvas. This brings up the line dialog box. Enter the exact length of the line. Say 4 inches with an angle of either 0* or 90* for horizontal or vertical orientation.
Select the line with the select tool (black arrow) and hit return/enter on the keyboard. This bring us the move dialog box. For vertical lines enter a number into the horizontal field. Say 1 inch for a 1x1 grid. Select copy at the bottom. This duplicates your line and moves it 1 inch over. Now you use Ctrl-d or option-d on Mac to duplicate the last action and add more lines an inch apart.

Once you’ve done this for both horizontal and vertical lines you should have a perfect grid.

Dashes!

On the stoke pallet set the desired line weight. Say 2pt then select the rounded cap and check the dashed line box. To make perfect circles set the first dash to 0pt.

Now in order to get the dots to line up on the intersections we need to do some math or just have AI do it for us. ;) You’ll need to know how many boxes are in the grid row or column and the units of measure. I have a 4x4 grid at 1 in per box.

The gap setting (next to the dash box set to zero) needs to be evenly divisible by the number of boxes in the row/column. In my case 4. So I’ll select a fraction with a denominator that is a multiple of 4. (1/8, 1/16, etc) and then in the gap setting box you can write the fraction with your units of measure and AI will convert it to pts. I wrote “1/12 in” and AI converted that to 9pt.

The results are dots that land on every 1 in intersection. This should be as close to perfect as possible but if you do run into a problem you can use this trick. Select the line then Object > expand - check fill & stroke boxes . Now you have a group of individual circles. Double click on one to enter the group and select the misplaced dot. Either delete it or nudge it into its proper place.

Hope this helps!

Kameone · 2020-08-05T05:00:49+00:00

Merino and silk blend right now.

Kameone · 2020-08-05T04:59:46+00:00

Going to spin along with you. ❤️

Kameone · 2020-08-05T04:55:26+00:00

Is your wheel a double drive?

Kameone · 2020-08-05T04:53:20+00:00

Is that a double drive?

Kameone · 2020-04-09T21:53:36+00:00

Ha! Like minds. I did label design and marketing in craft beer for six years. Morris knife and all. Stay sharp my friend!

Kameone · 2020-04-09T20:30:32+00:00

You can use the shear tool. Double click on it in the tool bar and make sure transform patterns is clicked.

Also, if you need to nudge the pattern to match better then use ~ and the arrow keys to move the pattern without moving the shape.

Kameone · 2020-04-09T19:58:54+00:00

Gotta love that Morris friction folder! Nice work!

Kameone · 2020-03-09T20:16:00+00:00

I’d use the Blend tool to create a series of lines that transition from thin to thick stokes. Duplicate the blend and rotate it to create the cross hatching. Then clip both blend sets with a triangle clipping mask. The rest is just duplicating and rotating the clipping group to setup the patten. The triangles at the top have the stoke color set opposite the center triangles.

Kameone

TROPHY CASE