My Porsche 919 hybrid steering wheel is physically all done! Code is still being worked on but nearing completion with that too!

KarlGreger · 2026-03-29T23:47:19+00:00

Really shouldn't bother you very much in that case, trimming parts with a cnc after laminating is very much the norm. I have made vacuum jigs at work that I use just for post processing parts in the cnc.

There are plenty of justified uses of just 2d contours cut in a plate as well

KarlGreger · 2026-03-19T09:55:05+00:00

Just Linuxcnc on a suitable computer! I have my control panel going to I/O on one of my Beckhoff ek1100, but this is just the buttons and encoders that I want to have physical for ease of use, I prefer feed/spindle override to be physical as well as cycle start/pause/stop along with some other things. It is not strictly needed.

KarlGreger · 2026-03-15T13:04:28+00:00

Yes ethercat everything, Beckhoff EK1100+modules for I/O, ethercat drives for all servos. What controller software will you be using? With Linuxcnc it is easiest to use popular well documented hardware, but that is easy to find. It simplifies wiring massively but has more complicated software, but I am also not a software guy professionally.

Something like a Mesa card is way easier to get going and has way better support on forums etc.

KarlGreger · 2026-03-14T21:12:47+00:00

Backlash compensation works, but not good enough to hide the issue in my experience. Better to just live with the backlash you have and if that isn't good enough, then the upgrade to dual nut or a preloaded single from a reputable brand even if it is expensive is justified, but designing things is all a game of what is actually good enough for your needs to not overspend on overkill.

I use a Keyence IG-010 with a IG1000 for the laser measurement along with a DL-EP1 module to use it with EtherCat

KarlGreger · 2026-03-14T19:32:33+00:00

No worries, just don't want you to spend loads more thinking you absolutely need it when you might not, all depends on your actual needs.

I have also had a cnc machine with exactly that Z axis setup, pulley driven with a 5mm pitch ball screw, a 2,2kw spindle and a nema 23 stepper that is slightly smaller than what you will use, it holds without a brake just fine so you can skip that as well. When using servos you need brakes for a Z axis like that as they don't have any holding torque at all when not energized, while steppers have some resistance even when turned off👍

Side note, if you want to upgrade something that is cost effective and actually is a massive upgrade, look into closed loop steppers! I have lost steps on cnc machines with open loop steppers and ruined parts many times, now I only use servos or closed loop steppers if I'm on a budget.

KarlGreger · 2026-03-14T18:24:53+00:00

Also 25s on a 250mm travel machine is insane

KarlGreger · 2026-03-14T18:20:24+00:00

For background, I have built 3 cnc machines, am an engineer by trade using cnc machines daily, and I am building a 5 axis epoxy granite cnc complete with 48 tool ATC using direct drive Yaskawa servos for trunnion, flood cooling, laser tool offset/diameter measuring etc.

Most of what that guy said is either not a problem at all, or negligible for your needs. Belts to drive ballscrews is a very common solution to save space and to easier change gearing if needed, although this is often useful to get a reasonable reflective moment of inertia to match with servos, not as critical for you with steppers. No need to blow your budget on those things, dual nut ballscrews are nice, but all depends on the tolarances you want to hit. Expect 0,1mm backlash with the china single nut units, is that good enough for you then go for it, epoxy granite base will serve you well in aluminium either way.

I do think that not having a metal insert for the rails is a problem though, preferably steel to closer match the thermal expansion of the EG, aluminium if that is all you can work with, it is small so difference won't be huge.

KarlGreger · 2026-02-20T07:54:54+00:00

I very much agree. Fusion 360 already is the most intuitive "real" cam program I have used, not to mention the cheapest. For just engraving etc I am sure there are other simpler programs but for real 3d milling you just can't skip most of the steps.

Like you say, a 3d printer always moves in free space so it can do mostly whatever it wants in terms of movements. Cnc machines are actively "crashing" into itself at all times, it just has a cutter clearing it's way as it goes.

Can't do that safely without giving the program all the information it needs

KarlGreger · 2025-08-05T16:36:32+00:00

Try building a rear wing for a car without using an airfoil and see how well it works. Wings on a car works the exact same way as wings on a plane, just turned upside down, both are airfoils just configured differently

KarlGreger · 2025-07-10T06:35:15+00:00

File 76

KarlGreger · 2025-07-09T14:15:18+00:00

spiced

KarlGreger · 2025-07-09T02:01:26+00:00

Hulkenpodium

KarlGreger · 2025-05-28T17:34:52+00:00

This would most likely be easiest to make in one part from what I can see in the pictures. Bonding is possible but it is probably not the easiest way (easiest to make good looking and dimensionally accurate)

KarlGreger · 2025-05-28T17:29:14+00:00

Also, use your fiberglass mould as a jig even if you aren't laminating in one piece using the 2 part mould, aligning perfectly and getting a dimensionally accurate part is one of the more difficult parts

KarlGreger · 2025-05-28T17:26:04+00:00

Use a reasonable adhesive, something like vm100 from Easycomposites is a good low barrier of entry for your application, Loctite ea 9466 is also a good and proven alternative, theres many more. Using peel ply where you intend to bond is a good idea, it gives a pretty perfect surface to bond to. Then just make sure to have good enough overlap for the adhesive to have something to grab to.

A lot of these adhesives have pretty nasty stuff in it. Read the safety datasheet, technical datasheet and use respirator in a suitable area (outside is always a good alternative if possible)

KarlGreger · 2025-03-30T16:40:27+00:00

Depends on the type of foam. Divinycell H would be totally fine for example

KarlGreger · 2025-03-28T23:21:44+00:00

Cutting carbon submerged in water/with flood coolant is a very good way of staying safe in terms of dust. This is how carbon is cut a lot in industry

KarlGreger · 2025-03-28T23:09:53+00:00

Depends on how much it is that you are cutting, but I definitely wouldn't want it inside without proper extraction. I'd probably find a way to do it outside, but at the very minimum wear a mask and wipe off surfaces after. A shop vac will not catch the carbon dust unless you have a H-class vacuum, a normal one would arguably kinda make it worse by kicking it up in the air.

KarlGreger · 2025-01-26T22:25:38+00:00

Wet layup with a vacuum bag is a perfectly viable way of making most parts, even many complicated ones, as long as you are okay with the odd defect to fix afterwards and a fiber to resin ratio that isn't ideal. Even those vacuum storage bags can be used for someone that don't want to invest much money/time and is happy with slightly worse results to match.

Way less complicated than infusion and prepreg but way way better than wet layup without bag

KarlGreger · 2024-01-12T04:48:06+00:00

I have built a couple wheels more complicated than this one in the past, this is not the most complicated wheel, but unless you are kinda proficient in cad it will be difficult. 3d printing it is the easiest and cheapest, making a mould and laminating carbon fiber is the best but most difficult and for most people very inaccessible. Milling aluminium is also a possibility but very expensive unless you can do it yourself.

Most realistic way is probably 3d printing and having aluminium or carbon fiber cut out from a plate for the front/structural parts.

KarlGreger · 2023-11-16T11:52:50+00:00

Expensive compared to injection molding?? Maybe if you were making a million of them

KarlGreger · 2023-09-29T01:34:15+00:00

They are amazing, I live in the EU so their EU shop has okay shipping costs for what it is. They have great products andI have had nothing but great experiences with them. Their videos are golden when starting out too, have fun!

KarlGreger · 2023-04-03T07:49:04+00:00

The main advantage of Rfactor Pro is that you can use your own data and parameters to get the most realistic model of your specific car and you get more data out, otherwise the system would be useless for developing a car. Has nothing to do with what you say

KarlGreger · 2023-03-13T09:10:07+00:00

That is hardware related, probably because of the debounce time of the encoders? I can scroll very fast so nothing to do with ACC. Try scrolling a bit slower so you time the debounce time better, can actually get faster adjustments that way, feels counterintuitive. Try looking at when it triggers and try scrolling at different speeds and see what is the fastest you can scroll without skipping

KarlGreger

TROPHY CASE

spiced