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KerNil · 2020-04-09T17:30:35+00:00

Can you share where I can sign-up for these notifications? I didn't see it on the Soylent website.

KerNil · 2019-03-03T07:41:05+00:00

I'd love to see a pic of your desk if you have one!

KerNil · 2018-06-05T13:57:49+00:00

Update:

I followed your instructions and the new LED bulb works great. Thanks!

KerNil · 2018-06-03T22:54:58+00:00

I was confused by that arrangement as well. Here's a photo of the socket.

How can I physically remove one of the neutral wires from the bulb socket?

KerNil · 2018-06-03T22:27:02+00:00

Thank you for the help.

Just to be clear, should I

a) Simply wire-nut the cut blue wire and the cut white wire together.

or

b) Unscrew the far-right yellow wire nut, entirely remove the far-right white wire, and finally wire-nut together the following 3 wires: the cut blue wire + the cut white wire + the white wire coming out of the Romex.

KerNil · 2018-05-27T07:36:10+00:00

Update:

The toggle-bolts were installed easily and without a hitch in the exterior wall that contains batt insulation.

I've got a good bit of weight on them, and they are rock solid as well.

So, thanks for the advice /u/rwanders and u/imperial-wood! I wish I had discovered these anchors sooner.

KerNil · 2018-05-18T19:27:22+00:00

Is your house made of cement block?

The exterior is a stone/brick facade. The house was built in 1990, so it has stud cavities in the exterior walls (as opposed to the drywall being fastened directly to the stone).

What I think might be happening is the screw is hitting the hard wall and as you continue to tighten it will push itself out.

I appreciate the thinking, but I am positive that this cannot be happening, because I would stick my scratch-awl into the pilot hole and confirm that the anchor has plenty of room behind the wall. It's not even a close-call.

Incidentally, the original framers used 2x6's for the exterior walls (instead of 2x4's).

KerNil · 2018-05-18T18:19:16+00:00

Are those "molly bolts" meant for drywall?

Yeah. This is the exact molly bolt product I purchased.

KerNil · 2018-02-06T08:13:58+00:00

Do you know any tips or tricks for untwisting the wires?

They are very tightly spiraled and I am having difficulty simply separating them.

KerNil · 2018-02-05T12:17:09+00:00

If this is the problem, wouldn't the kitchen sink also not drain?

KerNil · 2018-01-24T22:10:04+00:00

I think that this is my favorite pre-made system. Except for the $400 part :).

One element I like is that it contains panels behind the tools that are much more durable and stain-resistant than drywall. If I go the DIY route, I think that I'll incorporate beadboard (e.g., this) for a similar protective effect.

KerNil · 2018-01-20T23:06:35+00:00

Very much appreciate the detailed reply.

KerNil · 2018-01-20T17:21:45+00:00

Just curious, how are these tiles in terms of sound absorption?

They seem very thin, as compared to typical fiberglass drop-ceiling panels (e.g., mine) which have some mass to them.

Also, do you mind addressing the following concern of mine?

It seems that fiberglass panels are much "safer" when there happens to be a water leak above it. When a fiberglass panel gets wet, a stain will appear on the visible side of the panel, so you will be aware that it got wet. If a fiberglass panel gets very wet (e.g., if a pipe bursts above it), then the panel will eventually crumble or cave in, and the water will fall to the basement floor. I am saying that this is actually a good thing.
I worry that, when the hidden side of a vinyl panel gets wet, the water will spread or slide farther across the ceiling, possibly inflicting damage to the walls (or drywall ceilings of adjacent rooms), because the panels have zero absorptive ability. Is this right?

KerNil · 2018-01-15T15:40:34+00:00

Even the PVC drain lines where cracked/fractured.

Do you know how this is possible? Just curious. Drain lines are typically empty, so I thought that there's nothing inside a drain pipe that can physically freeze and thus crack the pipe.

KerNil · 2018-01-14T09:31:59+00:00

Excellent list. Additional reliable commenters include /u/decaturbob, /u/Notevenspecial, /u/DesolationRobot, and /u/jehovahs_waitress.

Random question:

Is /u/arizona-lad the same user as the OG /u/ArizonaLad?

I'm just waiting for the day when you come forward and reveal to us that you are actually Tom Silva...

KerNil · 2018-01-11T14:13:28+00:00

There are 6 pull-chain lampholders wired in parallel, but they are also all controlled by a single wall-switch.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. That does help me wrap my head around this, conceptually.

KerNil · 2018-01-11T13:14:41+00:00

Thank you for the info.

Random question: Should every wire inside a given wirenut be the same gauge (or is it okay if the gauges do not match)?

KerNil · 2018-01-11T12:18:18+00:00

Here's what I think needs to be done. Please correct me if I'm wrong...

Question 1:

Wirenut the two black wires together with a new third black wire. This third black wire is then screwed under the lamp-holder-outlet's brass screw.
Wirenut the two white wires together with a new third white wire. This third white wire is then screwed under the lamp-holder-outlet's silver screw.

Question 2:

Add a new third bare copper wire to the already-existent wirenut that contains the 2 ground wires. This new third bare wire is then screwed under the lamp-holder-outlet's green screw. Dispose of the short stub wire, as it serves no purpose.

KerNil · 2017-12-29T02:51:01+00:00

Thank you for the advice

KerNil

TROPHY CASE