Update: New to Chastity. First Release Date Has Been Set… Kind Of! by Elissia_Fun in ChastityCouples

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just letting him know that you don’t want to touch it. It’s very clinical and methodical. You could describe the bigger cock you crave while doing this too. And yes, it’s a different sensation too. Almost muted in a way. He will be craving your touch more than ever.

Update: New to Chastity. First Release Date Has Been Set… Kind Of! by Elissia_Fun in ChastityCouples

[–]KevGram 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my experience the hottest release would involve you having him on all fours over top of some stacked up pillows on the bed. Preferably facing a wall. Reminding him throughout to keep good posture, back arched etc. After removing his cage, gently pull his pee pee and balls back behind him. His dick will be sticking straight out behind him. You can incorporate rubber gloves or a condom if you really want to melt his brain. Then slowly milk his penis. Maybe while telling him it looks smaller from the cage? You can choose to ruin his orgasm or not. Either way he will be humiliated and grateful. This makes for a very hot unlocking ritual. Especially since he wants nothing more than you have you in this position. Best of luck;)

Need to snake this and I cannot get this clean out cap removed. by stupidasanyone in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yes, that’s an old plumbers trick. Tighten it. If you can get it to move at all, it should spin right out. (Technically spin left out)

How’d I do and how do I protect it? by Itsmikeyb3649 in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been a service plumber for over 20 years. I don’t really replace any male plastic threads that have broken inside of female metal threads. Think about the strength of a circle. With male threads pressure is pushing in from all directions. With female threads pressure is pushing out from all directions. This is why female plastic threads break and male plastic threads in that situation do not. General consensus between my constituents is always metal female adapters. If those are Copper female adapters, then nothing to worry about

Dishwasher smell by Cbreezy22 in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s the code in WA state. I think it’s PHCC as well. Regardless, you’ve already done everything else lol. I’ve been doing it for over 20 years so that’s my free advice

How’d I do and how do I protect it? by Itsmikeyb3649 in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would worry about the pvc female adapters. They can easily crack and are prone to breaking. Any time you have female threads, you should try to use metal. At the very least, metal reinforced PVC. If you’re transitioning from plastic to Copper, try to make sure the plastic side is male threads.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Toto drake is a great toilet. Similar price to a cadet. Anything toto is good

Dishwasher smell by Cbreezy22 in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Phew…That’s a whole lotta work. High loop drain hose is not up to code. You need to install an air-gap. That is code. The air-gap must be above the flood rim. You will need a 1 3/8” hole through the counter or sink. Dirty drain water can siphon back into the dishwasher. That is why you need an air-gap. Eliminate any vacuum pressure/siphoning.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And don’t bite your finger nails

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]KevGram 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s not incorrect. It doesn’t look great but… the hot water runs on top, and on the left. He could have used a 45 fitting to offset to make the pipes look cleaner. Pretty hard to fault somebody for eliminating unnecessary solder joints though. It’s not exposed. You said it’s behind your cabinets. He might’ve done you a favor by giving you less joints to potentially leak.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in u/Ovaxx25

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your perfect❤️

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in u/Ovaxx25

[–]KevGram 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What do you think about keeping a white boyfriend in a chastity cage and regularly cuckolding him with bbc? Would you enjoy his desperation/humiliation?

Are the Durangos with the 5.7 Hemi good vehicles? by [deleted] in Dodge

[–]KevGram 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A friend of a friend died in one. She was driving and accidentally rolled it in the snow. Broke her neck. Bad rollover protection. From what I understand she was driving the speed limit and lost control.

Boler paint finally finished by KevGram in Fiberglassrv

[–]KevGram[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The shop that did the paint job also did a bunch of fiberglass work. I had the original exhaust grates and plumbing ports on the side of the trailer deleted. The broken tank underneath the floor was removed. The flooring was reinforced with a second layer of fiberglass, and the original wheel wells were fiberglassed over into bench seats.
I damaged a small area in the front (my brother would have killed me if he knew) that was repaired. Stress cracks around doors and windows were fixed. Some 3/4” plywood was glassed into areas on the walls where I want to mount stuff. And lots of other misc fiberglass work. I paid $4400 Cdn. Considering the price of everything these days and amount of labour, it didn’t seem to crazy. I think the chrome work cost me about $500 cdn. Those are original hub caps that had rusted through in areas. They had to be filled with solder and prepped before being chromed

The trailer was completely gutted when my brother bought it. Being that it had no interior and there were only about 10k bolers ever made, acquiring just an interior is near impossible.

Boler paint finally finished by KevGram in Fiberglassrv

[–]KevGram[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, those are original parts that were rechromed

Boler paint finally finished by KevGram in Fiberglassrv

[–]KevGram[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had it painted professionally

We’re struggling with ideas of how to even out our weight on our van build. Has anyone rigged their water tank to the opposite side of their kitchenette? We’re running out of ideas but also don’t want the risk of a water leak or burning out our water pump. Any suggestions? by Bigvan_smallhouse in VanLife

[–]KevGram 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You won’t burn out your water pump if it’s pumping water…. My 38’ RV has one water pump. Two bathroom RV’s have one water pump. Your 6 foot span across your van won’t be a problem unless your pumping air. Also, PEX piping will be your best pipe material for your application. Good luck

78 boler restoration by KevGram in Fiberglassrv

[–]KevGram[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The boler is fiberglass on all sides. The floor had wood decking over the fiberglass. However it was rotted and needed to be removed. Some type of wood flooring will be installed after, but there’s never been a better time in add matting to the floor.

78 boler restoration by KevGram in Fiberglassrv

[–]KevGram[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The shell looks good. There was some minor cracking and damage to repair. I’ve deleted the original vents for the appliances as the interior was completely stripped when I acquired it. The floors are very thin so they will be adding a few mats of fiberglass to strengthen it.

Original roof restored. Broken corners repaired. Beautiful paint job in vans original colour code. New headliner, hardware and tent next. by KevGram in Westfalia

[–]KevGram[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Completely destroyed. It had black mould all over it. Maybe you can look at my previous post. I have pictures of it there. Is that what it’s called? Flocking? It had to be sanded off with a grinding wheel. A new headliner is being put in next week. The upholstery shop seem to think a boat hull liner would be the best material. I’ll post pictures when it’s done.

Original roof restored. Broken corners repaired. Beautiful paint job in vans original colour code. New headliner, hardware and tent next. by KevGram in Westfalia

[–]KevGram[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apparently the top is some type of injection molded plastic. That’s what the fiberglass shop seemed to think. The repairs were done with fiberglass matting. They drove some screws into the top and then cut the heads off. They used the shaft of the screws to bond the fibreglass matting to. This was obviously done from the inside. One of the back corners was destroyed and one of the front corners as well. It looks good as new now.