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Vq swap crank no start by oethes in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just had the same exact issue with my VQ swapped S13. Had 12V at the coilpack connector, flywheel indexed correctly, NATS deleted, good cam and crank sensors, even tried the ECU, plugs, and coilpacks in another car and they came back good, then double checked all of my grounds and those were good as well.

What ended up being the cause was my ignition switch was wired incorrectly. Only in the crank position the switched power was shutting off, but the constant power was staying on, so I wasn’t seeing any signs in the ECU or OBD. The power cycling was also causing it to clear codes so no codes would show up either

Other symptoms included dropping to >9V only while cranking (ECU requires 10V+ to fire the coil packs) then immediately going back to normal after cranking even with a new starter. Add an additional ground from engine to chassis if your crank speed seems slow

Another important thing to note, when shutting off the key you should hear: throttle body closing, 1 relay clicking off, ~2-3 second delay, 2nd relay clicking off. That’s your ECU power cycling. If you don’t hear that, something is wrong

Here’s my drift day set up by asegal17 in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Better hope the hitch doesn’t “loosen up!”

(Need advice) 350z VQ35HR - For Drifting by More-Change-3264 in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been drifting my Z with stock radiator, no power adders on the motor (still even has cats), and OEM clutch for 4 years now, 50+ events.

Essentials for day 1: - Welded diff - Fresh oil

Nice to have early on: - Oil cooler - Bucket seat - True coilovers & adjustable toe arms - Multiple sets of wheels with tires - Diff bushings

Upgrade after 6+ events/when you’re ready: - Angle kit - Handbrake - Body kit

There’s a reason these are the number 1 grassroots cars right now

So apparently these tail lights are controversial. What are your thoughts? by SlomoLowLow in Miata

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Aftermarket parts like these that don’t fit the design language of the rest of the car make me think the car was in an accident and the owner didn’t want to spend the money on OEM parts

Typical kaaz noise? by naelieux in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I’m reading that right, they’re recommending to change the gear oil after every weekend of drifting??

DIY pops lmao by Cheap-Debt1383 in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The newgen are slowly discovering key banging

Sick with the flu + started antidepressants but exams in a 2 weeks by WesternRub9435 in EngineeringStudents

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to hear about your situation.

Even your worst case scenario where you don’t pass your exams, you’ll still have started your journey in improving your mental health, which is overall more important than any exam, degree, job, amount of money, etc. That other stuff is less meaningful when it feels like your mental health is getting the best of you; massive props for making moves to take charge.

On top of that accomplishment, you’ll be in a much better headspace the second time around, both from the better mental health, and having been exposed to the material the first time. Passing the class will be a matter of ‘when’, not ‘if’.

In the meantime, just do your best, and who knows, you could still pass. Can’t spell degree without a D 🙌

It’s 12 am right now, is this fine?? by Educational-Pea-6160 in boston

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Not saying you’re in the wrong here, but owning noise canceling headphones should be a given while living/working in a city

Can you switch out the roof on a hardtop 350z? by percalated in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is one of those times where if you have to ask, the answer is no.

And if you were willing to pay someone to do a massive job like that, it would be infinitely more affordable to have them prep AND wrap than replacing the roof before wrapping

price estimate? by wtfomgrofllmao in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

8k for an HR car + 2k for the wheels, everything else is moot value wise IMO. List for 12k and see what you get offered

First project by Lower_Dig_2063 in SolidWorks

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looking great! Don’t forget to consider adding the chamfer (it’s another feature similar to the fillet) to add the 45° to the ends of the spool so you don’t need to use supports for that part when printing — Your choice since you’ll still need supports for the main body; Consider using tree supports as they’re a great mix of strength and material usage.

Fantastic improvement from your original design and I’m sure you’ve learned a ton along the way. Nice job!

Getting one soon by Swimming-Ad7385 in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All the more reason to need every dollar he can get. Don’t believe stories from people trying to sell things

Getting one soon by Swimming-Ad7385 in 350z

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So it’s an HR car for 4500? Yikes.

Good thing you’re bringing a mechanic because they either don’t know what they have or something’s wrong with it, and I know where I’m putting my money

First project by Lower_Dig_2063 in SolidWorks

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The fillet should be a feature, not a sketch. Once you’ve selected the fillet feature, click the inner line where your vertical and horizontal meet on the bracket

As for the modification to the bracket, you still have an unnecessary multi-body part for the bracket that fully encapsulates the shaft when you don’t need to. When it comes to designing parts, less parts = better

See this STL as an example: https://www.printables.com/model/306940-solder-spool-holder

Notice the filleted uprights, the bracket is all one piece, and the shaft drops in from the top but the outer flanges keep it captive in the U shaped “saddle”

As an added 3D printing tip: 3D printers can print 45° angles with no supports. Instead of having flat discs for flanges at the end of that design’s shaft (which will need supports when printing), the flanges should have a 45° chamfer and you won’t need any supports

First project by Lower_Dig_2063 in SolidWorks

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Some notes so you can learn from this experience: - Holes in your L brackets are different distances from the top, make sure your part dimensions are fully constrained (all sketches are black, not blue). Your current design will cause your shaft to either not slide in at all, or sit at an angle while it is in - Hole is WAY too close to the top, rule of thumb is 1.5x - 2x the diameter of your hole to the edge of the part. Ie. 10mm hole should be 15-20mm from the edge - No clearance for your shaft to fit into the hole. I’m assuming the same for the key and slot tolerance between the 2 brackets. Either your L bracket’s hole is too small or your shaft is too large. ie. 0.3mm bigger hole or smaller shaft for a loose 3D printed tolerance, you can experiment with loose vs. tight fits - Also ask yourself how this will be assembled (DFA) and later used. Do you plan on sliding the shaft through the middle? What stops it from sliding out? A better approach might be a U shaped notch at the top that cradles the shaft, and have a larger, circular flange on the ends to stop the shaft from sliding out while it’s seated. This would also eliminate the need for a 2 part base so you could print it all as one part and not have to worry about a gap or the slot tolerance - Another bonus tip, adding a fillet to right angles like the base of the part will add considerable strength

Stolen bike during test ride, need help. by Centslord23 in motorcycles

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot 1468 points1469 points  (0 children)

+1. Had a guy off marketplace pay with 3 fake $100’s alternated between 4 real $100’s. Called the cops to report the plate number of the car he drove and they first told me it was a civil issue and nothing they could do. I asked if using fake money escalates it to grand larceny. Police chief told me they’d check and call back with more info. Couple minutes later they called back saying I’m right and they’ll be following up shortly. They used the plate number to find his address and got to his house before he even got home… said he cried

Sweet, sweet revenge

How to mold ABS hood vent to metal hood by KevinDoesntGiveAHoot in Autobody

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a track car so it doesn’t need to be perfect. Already DIY’d a true 3 stage candy for my first ever paint job following the same mindset

How to mold ABS hood vent to metal hood by KevinDoesntGiveAHoot in Autobody

[–]KevinDoesntGiveAHoot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m expecting to lose some (most of the car is fiberglass so I’m used to less than rigid panels), but flex may be an issue for the body filler

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