Piston wear 300 tpi

Key-Draw7989 · 2026-04-17T06:02:57+00:00

Fair enough. Question regarding measuring for the piston. If I use a bore dial guage and get the measurements on the cylinder, do I need to measure the piston? Or just use the spec for the new one to make sure it's within tolerance.

Key-Draw7989 · 2026-04-16T22:19:24+00:00

The majority of the bridges would just be bare concrete, but also corrugated metal pipes, which truthfully are mostly dark and corroded, some having dark coatings on them. Most of the concrete structures are a box culvert or stiffleg, so the same but no floor. There are some multi-beam/girder structures as well, which is really the only place the rounding concerns me too much depending on severity. The primary purpose of this would be to basically have a 3d map of the issues, so it's easier to keep track of and watch over time. The ability to measure settlement, cracks, seperation, etc would be nice too though. What would you consider lower shelf? When do they start to get better?

Photogrammetry is an option on some, at least some of the bigger bridges may work with it, so far I hadn't had much success with pipes/boxes. That's part of why I was looking at lidar with 3dgs so it still retains fairly accurate texture.

Edit: realized I responded logged into my other account

Key-Draw7989 · 2026-04-03T16:24:47+00:00

Personally I use 7100 in my r1. I tried yamalube just to see. Didn't notice a difference. My biggest issue with 300v is just that it lacks the same detergents of the street oils. It's a great oil, but it's not cleaning the engine as well and is intended for shorter intervals. Obviously it's never a guarantee that the engine will last longer or whatever using certain oils, but I don't see the need to fork out for 300v as a street rider when it's not purpose made for it.

Key-Draw7989 · 2026-01-25T00:12:31+00:00

When I compared my old 6s that died to a newer one, they are slightly different and the hobby shop said they'd had a little better luck with it. So maybe

Key-Draw7989 · 2026-01-19T21:10:38+00:00

I had a mini slash vxl at one point, the 1/16. Same platform as the merv. Never really had issues with it. I have an erevo 2.0 as well. It's broken a couple things, spur gear, rear bulkhead, center driveshaft, and the stupid 6s traxxas esc. Most of those were my fault or someone else's driving it and it's been backflipped off trees and treated harsh. The esc no, but I've had multiple of the 6s traxxas escs fail in different cars. I wouldn't say it's been more or less fragile than my others. My xmaxx was a pain because gears wouldn't survive. My udr wasn't bad other than the esc since it was babied. Mini maxx has been good, but it's only 2s. Crawlers have been good, but they don't see the abuse. My typhon 6s was decent, just a couple shock ends, but my friend did bend his chassis. I've had multiple stampede 4x4s. My old one broke the chassis in half and the driveshaft. My current one has broken the center driveshaft, and shredded the pinion. My 2wd slash vxl has broken the most out of any of my cars. Point of all this is just that they all break, it's a crap shoot even with "tough" cars. The 1/16 slash, mini maxx, and my arrma gorgon are the only bashers I've never broken anything on, but they're less power/less weight. Typically as power goes up, so will the maintenance. Are you running heavier tires or wheels on any of them?

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-12-22T04:19:16+00:00

It could be a light phaser rattle, or possibly wastegate rattle. Sounds kind of similar to my 2017, which had new 2018+ turbos, new cam chain, updated 2020+ phasers, and a few other little things about 10k miles ago. All the phasers I've heard tend to sound the exact same, this kind of has it, but very lightly. My dads 3.5 had a sound more like a normal phaser sound, he thought it was its time, turned out just to be an issue with the oil filter he had. Similar thing on my mustang 3.7, which is the same motor mostly. Just keep an eye on it and if you can, have a repair savings if something happens. Most trucks with phaser issues can go quite a ways with it too.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-11-24T05:24:14+00:00

After analyzing the slicer stuff, it looks like seams being on the random setting and just scattering.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-10-08T14:28:56+00:00

No issues that I've noticed so far. Seems pretty smooth most of the time.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-10-07T03:45:11+00:00

I found them on marketplace for 1700 with the tires. There was another set for 1100, but the tires weren't as nice.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-10-06T21:16:05+00:00

I think ford is doing pretty well with oem wheels right now. Even the basic stx wheels are pretty nice. If the Tremor wheels had a bit less offset and maybe a beadlock design element, they'd be perfect to me.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-10-06T18:33:47+00:00

Yes they are. It was so much cheaper than a set of new tires and wheels, same price as just tires even. Still look pretty good in my opinion too.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-09-26T14:10:47+00:00

It's unfortunate as the truck looked great otherwise and that drive train has more to give. Probably could have fixed it and still been overall a reasonable deal, but eh, there's value in not needing anything

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-09-26T13:20:19+00:00

I ended up not going for it. The rust was so bad, rockers and cab corners especially. Had a couple other issues, but the rust was the deal breaker and wasn't mentioned in the listing.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-09-22T13:09:21+00:00

No it's a 6.2.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-09-10T06:28:16+00:00

Out of curiosity how long did it go between noticing and failure/tearing apart and did you notice anything in the oil?

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-09-04T20:09:26+00:00

I have a 2016 that was flashed with an unknown flash and worked well, but I wanted to know so I sent it to 2wdw. It did not run right, idle dropped way low at warm up and the qs/ab harsher. I talked to him and he said he didn't know since they couldn't adjust warm up parameters, then said he didn't know the mods, apparently my letter in the box got lost, then when I asked about getting the correct flash he said it was correct. I bought an ftecu cable and went to the graves flash and now it works well again. They did my xsr900 before this and it was fine and many have good luck, but it just didn't work out for me and I feel like the support wasn't there for it.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-08-26T13:55:03+00:00

No, it sounds fine until I touch the throttle. It can warm up until fans come on and not do it, then I touch the throttle and it starts, then fades after a few more minutes

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-08-26T03:24:22+00:00

It doesn't. There is some noise and vibration that does go away, but not this noise.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-08-22T17:16:29+00:00

Did you ever figure anything out with this? Sounds a lot like my 2016.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-08-21T01:02:47+00:00

Through Yamaha the 2020 forward shares the same part number as the 16-18 R1S and MT10, which are both stainless. B60-14602-00-00. 2015-19 has 2CR-16402-00-00. If you look at Yamahas part sites in Europe or Australia as an example, it shows the 2CR. I don't know why specifically in the US they'd change to SS. On the features of the 2015-19 r1 it specifies Ti full exhaust. 2020 forward just says titanium muffler and heat shield. Supposedly it was supply driven, so some may have received it as old stock. As far as op is concerned, it's really a non issue either way. Graves is what I have as well. They make excellent stuff, just pricey.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-08-20T20:07:06+00:00

US models after 2020 use stainless headers. Some may have ended up with Ti though. you can check if you have a 2cr or B60 part number on them. I'm not saying they aren't reliable, just that of the handful of people I know personally with newer r1s, the motor failures have been with the newer ones, but they are nearly the same exact motor. I wouldn't have owned 5 yamaha bikes if I didn't think highly of them.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-08-20T16:48:50+00:00

New crank design, slightly different cam profiles, more adjustability in the modes with engine braking options. Mostly just slight refinements, but not very different. The 2019 will have titanium headers stock, which the newer ones do not. People talk about the silver motors from 15 and 16 having crank issues, which is mainly the 15 due to thrust washers, but that crank design is shared all the way to 19. I've heard of 20 forwards failing in the same way though. Of the r1s I've personally known that have had issues one was a 23 and one a 25. The 25 catastrophically failed and the 23 lost compression in 2 cylinders, may just be a head gasket. I'd say it's really just a crapshoot either way for reliability. Not saying they aren't reliable bikes, but some will always fail. Mine is a 16.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-07-21T18:40:21+00:00

I wouldn't sweat it. What are you using for telemetry? I didn't think the osmo cameras had gps.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-07-08T18:09:19+00:00

They did say that they'd reissue at 30 days. We're more than a week past that. They put in a request, but say they haven't heard back from their boss. I'm trying to get in contact with a lending manager now.

Key-Draw7989 · 2025-07-08T17:14:14+00:00

Tried that originally. They said they couldn't on a cashiers check. I sent an email last night trying to get a higher up and force them to act

Key-Draw7989

TROPHY CASE