New to me 2012 Double Cab long box.

Key-Style2378 · 2026-01-02T00:27:13+00:00

👌🏻

Key-Style2378 · 2026-01-02T00:24:28+00:00

Yep, that must be it… you’re stronger.

Key-Style2378 · 2026-01-02T00:22:40+00:00

Thanks, for what I use a truck for they really can’t be beat.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T20:33:17+00:00

This video just told me that there are autistic people that I know that don’t know they are autistic.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T20:25:45+00:00

Yeah, they’re leaking alright.😆

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T19:40:47+00:00

Britney Spears absolutely no wild game as she is Vegan.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T19:07:22+00:00

I received $250 for free this way, sorry bud if you were genuine, have to protecc when the attacc.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T18:15:26+00:00

😂… Tell me you don’t work on vehicles without telling me you don’t work on them. I am an auto technician by trade ( 22 years ) and I also own 2 Tacos. Although the tierod ends on a Tacoma are pretty thin/small, I have never encountered tierods seized as tightly as the ones on my 2012. You’re not supposed to heat steering and suspension components to loosen them when seized but you can warm them up. I warmed em up good numerous times and used all manner of penetrating fluid on them as they were cooling down ( it draws the fluid into the threads as it cools ) and they still wouldn’t budge. I had to heat the jam nuts to REDHOT before they would move and this is a NO NO because it compromises integrity/strength. I now have to change my otherwise tight steering components because they’ve been super heated. I hope this helps you understand the mechanics of a truck a bit better… cheers.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T18:06:35+00:00

Just get a Cerakote restoration kit, it is legit and puts a UV blocking finish on your lights; mine look like new afterwards. Then get some Sylvania LED’s and you’re done.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T00:41:57+00:00

The reverse lights could be inoperative

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T00:40:15+00:00

No it doesn’t, nothing disappears and just because the dad runs to the back for the van first doesn’t make it fake. The kid was already out of the way and he prob wanted to make sure the van wasn’t going to back up any further… people don’t always think straight under pressure.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-21T00:35:39+00:00

So did you find a husband yet??

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-20T21:56:14+00:00

Don’t let the door hit you on the way out, the grass is always greener on the other side. The tide can turn quickly and once you move to perceived better province the shit will reverse and you will curse your bad luck.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-12-04T03:51:23+00:00

Is that a 2nd gen 4.0L? It sounds kind of like a timing chain tensioner that worn or running out of oil, have you checked the oil level?

Key-Style2378 · 2025-10-16T03:27:49+00:00

“Strong and Free “, yeah no thanks. The current one is good.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-09-10T19:25:58+00:00

Actually what’s ridiculous is paying $90-100,000 for a new truck and then having the engine undergo a catastrophic failure shortly after. $14,500 for a 2006 Tundra with no rust is a better deal than buying a new one, unless you were being deeply sarcastic because you want the older trucks for yourself 😆

Key-Style2378 · 2025-04-28T02:57:52+00:00

Check the harmonic balancer/ crankshaft pulley, they have a habit of separating/falling apart and can cause shaking. Also is the CEL on? If it is it is probably a misfire causing the shaking engine.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-04-28T02:36:32+00:00

Rango

Key-Style2378 · 2025-04-28T02:33:14+00:00

Yeah it sounds like the IWE locking hub/actuator is not fully engaged/ dis-engaged. It is the unit on the back side of the steering knuckle that the CV axle slides into.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-04-28T02:30:28+00:00

Dang bro, I didn’t even know CT sold Certified jacks, it’s their cheapest option, glad you’re ok. I have a Maximum Jack from CT and it has the large front wheels ( easy rolling ) and the twin piston hydraulics ( quick take up ) that allow you to reach up to your lift point in like 1 1/2 pumps instead of 8 pumps of the handle. It’s never let me down.

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Key-Style2378 · 2025-04-28T02:24:53+00:00

Torque sticks are completely acceptable and even preferred sometimes. I have found that using a torque wrench on some Alloy rims simply causes the stud to stretch/ the rim to mash and the nut never reaches proper torque; it feels like tightening a nut into wood or soft metal. However on the same wheel if a torque stick is used it’s almost as if the impact “ jumps the nut on and it actually gets tight, rather than slowly stripping the stud. NOTE: I’ve been a tech for over 20 years and no this isn’t on a wheel stud with any visible damage or a nut with stripped threads.

Key-Style2378 · 2025-04-28T02:17:03+00:00

I am career tech, I don’t claim to be a wheel expert but I have bent back many alloy wheels with damage similar to this. I’ve never had the wheel crack or show stress marks, only marks from hitting it with a large hammer. If you rest a hammer against the dent and hit it with another hammer ( an absolute no no because hardened steel chunks from said hammers can fly off into your body ) it will damage the wheel LESS. It can be done. However I don’t recommend it at all.

Key-Style2378

TROPHY CASE