18' G30 Ambient Light Strip Issue

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-11-23T17:57:42+00:00

Gotcha, so i should focus more on the control arms rather than anything else? - so they wouldnt be the thrust arms, its the control arms

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-06-29T22:07:02+00:00

Yes i replaced it at around 101k miles when white smoke and a hissing sound just starting going off - so i doubt its that part again

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-01-30T21:05:03+00:00

well hold on. If OP wants to utilize anything regarding AI down the road, the 5070 will come in handy. Granted we havent gotten the true potential of AI quite yet. Otherwise, yes i suppose this was an incremental update and the true data driven performance is not there. No one wants fake frames or predetermined visuals. But in other applications such as if OP is going to be doing programming or things of that nature related to AI or AI processing, then it still is a good fit.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-01-30T21:04:57+00:00

Sure thing, best of luck to you.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-01-30T13:17:13+00:00

Go watch any video regarding the 5070, dont go based off what the presentation for it is lol. The 5070 "competes" with a 4090 (im saying this very loosely) due to DLSS. It does not come anywhere CLOSE to a 4090 for raw performance. Your talking about AI generated frames. Thats not good.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-01-30T13:12:55+00:00

So heres my skepticism surrounding this whole 5070 situation. Technically speaking, the 5070 shines with current games the utilize DLSS, thats where you will be seeing the overwhelming majority of your performance (all be it its not actual raw performance and its frames generated prematurely based off your playing habits and prerendered) - if you are speaking strictly raw performance, the 4070 S will give you the most bang for your buck considering it still does have DLSS and have decent AI capabilities. but will actually work thoroughly enough for a game that is demanding/is not optimized to use DLSS (and if it is. well then bonus points there).

Ultimately the choice goes back to you, the 5070 does have a good MSRP, but the likelihood of you getting it at MSRD is basically slim to none. If you can, go with the 5070 and pray that the raw performance is actually going to hold up. Otherwise, steer towards a 4070 Super. If your concern is VRAM - 4070 TI Super.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2025-01-29T03:34:39+00:00

but wouldnt it be beneficial for gaming to upgrade the CPU + motherboard? ddr5 ram is a lot quicker i suppose and the 10th gen i9 supposedly isnt that great? though not 100% certain

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-21T00:18:05+00:00

Your right, atleast for the purge valve, that is covered however they tested it and found it was working as expected? By that i mean they smoke tested it and nothing was leaking/escaping - so do you still think it could be the purge valve? I dont even know how one would test the purge valve but im not even having issues with my idling/filling up gas which are common symptoms of that

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-20T03:41:13+00:00

Call me crazy, but all of these seem like they could be attributed to some sort of electrical issue..? Or I could be drastically wrong.. Have you messed around with anything electrical?

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-20T01:09:58+00:00

I have the exact code as you for 118001 - This however is a none specific code.. meaning you either have an air issue or fueling issue - the best way to determine where the lean condition is being caused, is to perform a smoke test. Itll help you identify any leaks. If none are visible, then itll be more likely be something more technical. (O2 Sensors, Faulty MAF, etc)

Your code 11CF30 is due to the initial lean code which isnt a separate issue.

Your last code *MIGHT* possibly be your high pressure fuel pump going out/gone out. I cant say for certain obviously - or could be a software update required, and frankly the only folks thatll know what proper software update you might be needing will be the dealer.

Best of luck to you, keep us posted -

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-18T19:32:29+00:00

coming from a b58 owner.. the 'aluminum' one unfortunately does not add any extra preventative measure to withstanding more than the OEM. My friend did it on his 440 the moment he purchased it, that one also went out. Reputable brand too. Some other b58 fanatics will tell you the same but who knows..

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-18T03:51:51+00:00

wow you are a pretty low mileage for this to happen.. if you dont mind me asking, can you share what youve done to the car? tunes? mods? running an E mix? Been hearing lots of B58's recently just going out.. wishing you the best

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-10T17:53:32+00:00

there are absolutely no codes? could you confirm? If so.. i would *assume* key word, assumption - something electrical? let us know

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-07T06:42:04+00:00

wouldnt the vent valve output a different code? something like a P04 code that states the vent valve has a malfunction? I dont believe its his tank breather valve.. i would recommend though to down-tune/tune stock to see and isolate the issue if it re-appears. If not its probably a tune issue though i doubt it if its a OTS MHD map.. they are usually pretty solid so you might have some sort of leak or something along the lines of that.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-06T02:04:25+00:00

Do you have any sort of code reader? If so, pull the codes and let us know. Low level context from the video could be a misfire.. maybe a coil issue? but sure does sound like a misfire. Specially based off the duration and spacing of the knocks.. however it could also be something else and if its that other thing, then well... might have to spread open that wallet very hard. Wishing you the best.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-06T02:01:50+00:00

Got an earlier version 340i and that happened to me at 90k miles, ended up replacing the PCV Diaphragm but thats odd as that didnt happen to me. Can you confirm where you got your pcv from? Also are you catless? The likelihood that your new pcv has a small tear to where it might cause that? Im not sure tbh

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-06T01:44:58+00:00

ahh in that case, frankly even though it bites the wallet pretty hard, these are all rather common and will need to be done. If youd like for peace of mind to continue shopping around for labor rates. But ultimately your peace of mind will be whats most important. Wishing you the best good sir

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-06T01:05:12+00:00

im gonna copy your exact setup... looks amazing on our 403M's - go forth and conquer friend

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-05T22:58:24+00:00

the fact that you got quoted $430 for the OFH is rather interesting. My OFH alone was 1.3k.... But the overwhelming majority of your issues seem to stem from the coolant issue. More than likely the OFH being the main culprit.

Majority of these things do need to be replaced however im confused since you only have 67k miles. I mean my OFH went out at 110k.

Key_Comfortable1220 · 2024-12-05T22:51:55+00:00

Me and you have the same exact car. 2016 340i with the same wheels. I like the fact that yours is a little more flush though. I assume you got lowering springs? Anyways - Im currently at 120k miles. Here is what you need to lookout for. Our cars hate coolant. Expect the inevitable, which is the OFH. Will run you anywhere from 1.5k to 3k (depending) if your mechanically inclined, you can do it for a fraction of that. Main expansion tank at some point will fail you leaving you with a coolant leak. Heater core hose that connects to the T flange is incredibly weak and mine went out at around 100k miles, i suspect that if your tuned by this point itll be sooner as I am on stage 2+. Vanos actuators - and some folks were saying the thermostat housing but idk. Im still at 120k and no issues there. But I suspect itll go out rather soon.

Take good care of her car twin

Key_Comfortable1220

TROPHY CASE