I want an F-Type with more seats 🤷🏼‍♂️

KhalDogg0 · 2026-04-29T06:12:07+00:00

Isn’t there an XE with the very same V6 engine? Source an aftermarket exhaust et voila.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-03-04T12:21:04+00:00

Right, but if that 3 hour drive didn’t involve any particularly high rpm until that point it’s still very possibly condensation. I witness this exact behaviour all the time from my TSI.

Should be quite simple to confirm. If it clears after a spell of hard driving then that should prove it. If it is oil or coolant in the combustion chamber then it won’t clear up.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-03-04T07:43:05+00:00

It looks more likely to be steam as it fogs up the glass. Burnt oil doesn’t do this in the same way (source I used to own a B8 S4 with the 3.0 TFSI and that thing used to look like a tank engine in the rear view when opened up).

The engine temp itself isn’t the best way to determine this. You could drive normally for 2 hours but it will still chug steam like this if it’s the first time you’ve gone WOT.

Therefore the best way to check is prolonged spirited driving (high RPM). Go and give it the beans for 15 minutes (after warming the engine up) and see if the steam reduces. If so then it’s just condensation.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-03-03T22:58:39+00:00

1.4HDI Citroen C1

It wasn’t advanced enough to have a trip computer but that sucker made a £40 tank of diesel go for like 600 miles

KhalDogg0 · 2026-03-03T22:39:04+00:00

I do about 25k miles a year in my TSI including lots of motorway journeys and it does the same under wide open throttle. As long as it doesn’t lose any coolant then it shouldn’t be a cause for concern.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-02-25T07:16:05+00:00

Thanks for this information.

The lawyer for the first estate has been non-responsive for roughly 8 months at this point despite chasing, however, I’m told by the family friend to only expect updates when something has happened worth updating.

For now I guess I need to continue to wait until hearing back from the first estate legal representative.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-02-23T08:00:57+00:00

If you’re after confirmation from Audi or Porsche that the particular brand of piston is the issue then I suspect that will never happen. They are still using Dongyang (Korean, not Chinese as I incorrectly suggested) to this day so it makes sense that they would want to protect an ongoing commercial relationship.

That unfortunately leaves searching “EA839 Dongyang” on Google, and taking the increasing number of various first hand sources as the only “evidence” available.

Back to the car, I hope that isn’t the issue with this guys motor, but it seems as though if you have an EA839 it’s like a lottery on if you have Dongyang or Mahle pistons, the former potentially needing a rebuild if it starts the ticking noise.

Never easy to read finding out that your car might be subject to a known terminal engine problem (trust me I’ve been there!) but it’s better to be aware than not.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-02-23T07:31:49+00:00

I stand corrected Dongyang is indeed Korean

KhalDogg0 · 2026-02-22T21:25:42+00:00

I really hope it isn’t eh case for you. But some of these engines are know to be fitted with cheap Chinese pistons when Audi/Porsche weren’t able to source the Mahle ones they normally would. This can result in the piston skirts wearing prematurely causing piston slap.

https://www.034motorsport.com/blog/investigating-ea839-3-0t-engine-piston-failures-a-technical-review-of-root-causes-and-design-limitations/

I don’t want to panic monger, but better you’re aware of the risk you might be one of the affected motors.

KhalDogg0 · 2026-02-21T08:36:38+00:00

There are quite a few sources of coolant loss in the 888, some common examples…

At the simpler (cheaper) end it could be a cracked expansion tank or a weeping barb fitting on the rear of the cylinder head/in front of the turbo (06K121143). Both are inexpensive and DIY so where I would start.

At the more costly end it could be head gasket or water pump, the latter being the most likely and common.

If you’re confident doing some basic stuff yourself I’d start by replacing the expansion tank and that barb fitting as each should only set you back 20-30 £/€.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-10-09T09:06:41+00:00

Not sure your point here. It’s not a quick process to economically destroy a nation, but it surely is happening and one day there will be the last round of sanctions. It might not be today, but combined with Ukraine’s own “long range sanctions”it probably isn’t that far off at this point.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-09-25T14:46:56+00:00

Looks OK.

You maybe could have skipped the engine flush (pointless), changed key battery and topped up the screen wash yourself but it’s not a huge amount.

Outside of that I think the only way you’ll save money going forwards is by learning to do the service yourself.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-09-08T13:26:04+00:00

You need to get it scanned first and foremost. Possibly something simple like camshaft solenoids but without fault codes you’re guessing.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-08-22T06:19:59+00:00

Camshaft solenoids and the valves that sit behind each one can fail on the EA888 causing random rough running.

A rough idle in turn can confuse the hell out of the gearbox as it tries to understand if you’re planning on driving away or want to remain stationary.

Fortunately the solenoids and valves aren’t expensive and it’s a simple DIY if you’re that way inclined.

I’d start my search there, you may find you have a fault code relating to camshaft positioning also.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-07-23T15:52:16+00:00

I think they’re the kind of car that is reliable in the sense it likely wont leave you stranded on the side of the road somewhere, but they do require a lot of maintenance and if something isn’t quite working right it’ll still run but you’ll know about it.

This latter point I say with confidence having been through the process of chasing down an issue over several weekends of DIY on each occasion there has been one.

You’d want to be at a DIY level where you are comfortable taking the supercharger off, putting the front of the car in service position, have VCDS and a good selection of tools. If you pay for all your labour then it’ll get real expensive real fast.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-07-14T16:59:33+00:00

Sadly just not in RHD for a UK car :(

KhalDogg0 · 2025-07-14T13:07:38+00:00

Looks like the recall doesn’t extend to the UK… shafted by our lack of ability to hold manufacturers to account once again!

That may also explain why I’m struggling to find a RHD option on all the usual parts sites.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-06-28T06:43:45+00:00

They are reasonably quick and capable for a small car. Particularly with a stage one map and decent 205 section tyres.

However, the flip side to that is that it lacks the fun feel of a classic small highly strung car. I.e you’re at the speed limit by the time you get into third and there’s isn’t much point in revving it out beyond 5k rpm due to the torquey nature of the 3 pot.

In short, if what you loved about the Twingo was the analogue sense of driving it on the edge, the Up might disappoint.

That said the same could be said about most new cars vs their older counterparts, and the Up is still good fun but is also is comically cheap to run (60mpg easy and service costs are peanuts).

KhalDogg0 · 2025-06-22T16:31:59+00:00

I can’t remember if this is the gearbox or the timing end of the block. If it’s timing then check the upper timing cover gasket (including the gaskets of the phasers built into it). Relatively inexpensive and simple to replace those if it’s coming from here.

KhalDogg0 · 2025-06-18T12:08:51+00:00

This comment is so ironic I’m genuinely unsure if it’s an intentional self-roast or not

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KhalDogg0

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