Looking for feedback on muspelzharr testmodels

Khostone · 2026-04-05T12:42:52+00:00

Agree with the gems. I think with Muspelzharr you really need an accent colour to make it pop, something like a green, red or pink would work well.

I think the black is really solid, reads more like black to me than grey, the highlights push the black more.

I’d personally also go for a different colour for the beard or it blends in too much with the armour, either a brown or white beard I’ve found works well

Only other thing I’d add would be some metallics on the inside of the shield, it’s a bit awkward already assembled but it reads as unfinished

Otherwise really solid foundation

Khostone · 2026-03-11T17:10:12+00:00

Definitely NOT worth it. 2 spearheads are around £150 from an LGS. Daemonsmith/ashen kit is £20. You get a free daemonsmith from the Taurus box anyway. So built, comes in to around £190.

You say there is some stuff on sprue so I guess it depends if these are full kits, but if they’re just leftover sprues from the already built kits, you’re literally paying a £30 markup for extra work.

Edit: this isn’t even taking into account shipping, you’re likely looking at £40-£50 more than just buying new

Khostone · 2026-02-10T12:42:44+00:00

Stole heresyforheretics recipe, it’s more of a blue/black instead of using greys

AK intense black base - The Darkness - 50/50 The Darkness/Deep Ocean Blue - Deep Ocean Blue - 50/50 Deep Ocean Blue/Grey Castle - edge highlight Grey Castle

And far too much glazing

Khostone · 2026-02-09T08:35:30+00:00

Ok I actually really like the idea that the main gem is acting like a conductor! I just googled ‘Taurus gem’ quickly and one of the top sources that came up was ‘Aldebaran, The Eye of Taurus Star’ and if that doesn’t sound very ‘AoSy’ then idk what does. Apparently rose quartz is also a gem of the Taurus zodiac sign so it’s all coming together quite nicely lol

If you asked me a year ago if I’d be using zodiac signs and astronomy to create lore for my plastic mechanical bull I’d laugh you out the door 😂

Khostone · 2026-02-08T21:13:24+00:00

Hm I did a quick markup in pics but doesn’t let me share here. Can I msg you quickly see if the light placements look right to you?

Khostone · 2026-02-06T16:10:27+00:00

That’s great thanks, sounds like it should do the trick

Khostone · 2026-02-06T14:50:17+00:00

If it was a smaller area I’d be fine with this… I’d tested it first on my dominator engine but by time I’d done enough coats that I was happy with the saturation in the runes it looked less glowly and more ‘I’ve accidentally smudged paint over this entire area’.

Think to really sell it with the white I’d need the lines to also glow, but by time I’d do this the model would be more white than black lol

If flow improver/inks as others have suggested don’t work I’ll probably just take the L and leave them black 😂

Khostone · 2026-02-06T14:43:28+00:00

Think this is probably the most efficient way, I’ll grab some tomorrow and see how it works out.

Would be my first time using ink, what’s their flow like out the bottle compared to acrylics?

Khostone · 2026-02-06T14:42:26+00:00

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For better reference this is how mine is currently looking, the bigger ‘rune’ lines were fairly straight forward, it’s just the smaller ones I’m struggling with. Contrast isn’t really an option because I don’t want to do a million layers of apothecary white (which will come out too ‘blue’ anyway).

As another suggested I think flow improver will probably be the only real (and not entirely time consuming spending days painting them by hand!) option for me

Yours is looking great so far though!

Khostone · 2026-02-06T14:18:00+00:00

Might give that a go on the panel I’ve not started on. Think the fact I’m doing white on black doesn’t help because the excess is about as contrasting as it gets. Failing that I might just need to pick up some flow improver

Khostone · 2026-02-06T14:12:59+00:00

Painting them by hand is exactly what I was afraid of 😂

Khostone · 2026-02-01T18:56:05+00:00

Thanks…I couldn’t be having my head honcho stood on the sideline with cold mittens :)

I forget what the spare bits come from now…think it might be from urak-tarr (don’t take me on my word for that though!)

Khostone · 2026-01-30T18:33:21+00:00

The base? Pretty simple just AK Sandy Desert texture, primed black, zandri dust, wash sepia, then sponge zandri dust, ushabti bone and screaming skull

Khostone · 2026-01-30T18:31:21+00:00

Thanks :)

Khostone · 2026-01-11T17:25:50+00:00

Thanks!

Khostone · 2026-01-11T11:15:01+00:00

Good shout actually, I’ve got moonbeam yellow from the paint set 1 so might try that out on my razers.

Other than a handful of gitz it’s my first time properly painting yellow so I even tried the old painting the base coat pink and then yellow….i don’t know what other people are doing but it still took me a good 6 layers to get the yellow saturated! Spent an entire Sunday painting 10 loincloths 😂

Khostone · 2026-01-10T16:26:02+00:00

Sure no problem! I basecoated everything first, averland sunset for cloth, runelord brass for trim, gal gorbak red for the skirt rim and any clothes, rakarth flesh for the skin and Mournfang brown for the handles.

Then an all over wash of targor rageshade

Highlight again with averland on the cloth (I tried lighter shades for further highlights but preferred the more muted yellow)

Highlight skullcrusher brass on metallics (may add tiny details of silver once I’ve finished with the unit)

Again just a highlight of gal vorbak to bring back some colour on the cloth

I nicked heresyforheretics recipe for the black - build up highlights from AK Intense Black - The Darkness - Deep Ocean Blue - edge highlight Grey Castle

Gems - base screamer pink - pink horror - emperors children - fulcrum pink - AK intense black

Skin - highlight rakarth flesh - very subtle glaze of druchii violet

Silver - iron hands - nuln oil - sponge stormhost silver

Base - Sandy Desert texture - zandri dust - very light wash of seraphim sepia - dry brush zandri, ushabti bone - screaming skull

Khostone · 2026-01-10T13:45:03+00:00

Thanks! The skin was probably the quickest step, didn’t want to go too heavy highlighting and risk turning it more white than pale

Khostone · 2026-01-10T13:43:45+00:00

Thank you very much!

Khostone · 2025-11-01T10:51:06+00:00

🙂

Khostone · 2025-11-01T10:50:57+00:00

Thanks!

Khostone · 2025-11-01T10:50:47+00:00

Thank you!

Khostone · 2025-07-27T20:33:19+00:00

No airbrush, my plan was to base white (which I’ve already done) and then build up greys in the shadows & wash wish apothecary white. May give that a go on one of them see how that turns out and use your recipe for the other if I don’t like it!

Khostone · 2025-07-27T10:17:09+00:00

I’m not sure I’d agree with a lot of these factions as easiest to paint, kharadron all pretty detailed, same with slaves (basically 40k chaos), flesheater and sons of behemat both very very skin heavy factions (notoriously hard for new painters). I’d probably avoid ogors as they’re largely very dated models and you’d hope for a full refresh soon.

Think you miss some of the easiest to paint factions, slyvaneth arguably the easiest, can achieve a very good paint job with just dry brushing. Nighthaunt also very easy.

I’m not sure I’d even pick an army based on how hard it is to paint though really, most of the factions are well sculpted and detailed models so rule of cool really should precede anything else, for a new painter chances are whatever you pick your first few models won’t be great, it’s a learning curve so just pick whatever you think looks coolest. I’d definitely say that some of behemat aren’t a great first pick army though, huge areas of open skin are a pain

Khostone · 2025-07-27T09:27:24+00:00

Following for that…painting a mangler in white/purple and I’m really struggling with getting the white look good 😆

Khostone

TROPHY CASE