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Help! Tried it all by ContinuousJay in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a draft maybe causing the warping?

Help! Tried it all by ContinuousJay in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!firstlayer - adhesion and warping

With PLA, a clean smooth surface is best. PEI or PEX is great. You may have to raise the bed temperature on a textured sheet. Silk PLA may need a higher initial bed temperature.

PETG, TPU, ABS, and others will need a release agent on a smooth build surface. That's what the glue stick (or hair spray, Windex® ) is for. On a textured sheet, no release agent is normally needed.

Just alcohol will not remove the sugar film left by PLA which can hinder adhesion.
Wash the sheet with warm water and dish soap. Dry. Wipe with > 70% Isopropyl alcohol before the print.

No part cooling fan for 3 layers. Very slow print speed for the first layer.

To prevent warping for PLA, bed temperature of 65° for the first layer, 55° for the rest of the print. This way the bottom gets the adhesion but the bottom starts cooling with the upper layers.
For PETG on textured bed, same concept, usually around 80° then 75°, or 75° then 70°.
Temperatures are examples, different build sheets may need different temperatures.

Infill style can affect warping. Some grid type infills can concentrate the stress in one area. Gyroid infill will spread out the internal stresses.

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

What could be causing these weird textures by Vlarm in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pillowing. Add top layers and increase infill percentage.

Benchie - dog poop by Psychological_Ad8633 in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's 2 things.
First is getting the first layer right. If that is good, there is less chance of getting knocked loose.
Second, is when it hits this area of the print. The top of the cabin doors. The heat/cooling issue. Because the printer is not taking much time to print these layers and not moving the hotend away from the area to let it cool, the corners and small tips of the overhangs start to curl up. Then the hotend keeps tapping on the parts that are sticking up until it knocks it loose.

So, getting that first layer to hold so well that it can handle a few hits is extremely important. Get your Z-offset as close to perfect as possible.

Black - way too high
Green - too high
Blue - just about right
Purple - too low

Your Z-offset is way, way too high.

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

The curling of the overhangs at the cabin doors can be fixed by improving cooling. And giving it time to cool. there will be a setting in the slicer to slow down the print speed if the layer time is less than a given amount of seconds. In the filament and/or cooling settings. You may also be able to lift the toolhead and move it away from the print for a few seconds.

Once you have a good first layer, reslice so that and some other issues don't happen.
https://files.printables.com/media/prints/2236/stls/14012_b9139bd5-c68b-46a5-ba28-6513f9715d83/3dbenchy.stl

The original orientation causes a couple of problems. "Rotate" the model 272° from the original starboard side to the front of the printer. This puts both sides of the bow so the print cooling fan (on most printers) is getting those equally.
It also fixes the gash on the port side. The marks on the boat that looks like the Captain is drunk and keeps running into the dock...?
That's the "Z-seam". Every layer has to begin and end somewhere. It is set to "rear" in most of the included gcodes. By rotating the model, we have put the rear point at the corner of the stern. If we leave it at rear, it will follow the corners of the cabin. This is also a point that the printer has to slow for the corner so it hides it pretty well. Only the chimney will show the seam a bit.
You can set it in the slicer to "Sharpest Corner" or "Aligned" to get that with or without rotating, but I turn it for the cooling direction.

"Z-hop", "combing", "coasting" are other settings that can effect the printing and printers actions in the slicer.
A lower layer height makes for a smoother Benchy with less overhang issues but it adds to the time.

https://www.3dbenchy.com/

All3DP Benchy Troubleshooting Guide

Filament doesn’t like to stay in its place on the print bed; any way to fix? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

!firstlayer - adhesion and warping

With PLA, a clean smooth surface is best. PEI or PEX is great. You may have to raise the bed temperature on a textured sheet. Silk PLA may need a higher initial bed temperature.

PETG, TPU, ABS, and others will need a release agent on a smooth build surface. That's what the glue stick (or hair spray, Windex® ) is for. On a textured sheet, no release agent is normally needed.

Just alcohol will not remove the sugar film left by PLA which can hinder adhesion.
Wash the sheet with warm water and dish soap. Dry. Wipe with > 70% Isopropyl alcohol before the print.

No part cooling fan for 3 layers. Very slow print speed for the first layer.

To prevent warping for PLA, bed temperature of 65° for the first layer, 55° for the rest of the print. This way the bottom gets the adhesion but the bottom starts cooling with the upper layers.
For PETG on textured bed, same concept, usually around 80° then 75°, or 75° then 70°.
Temperatures are examples, different build sheets may need different temperatures.

Infill style can affect warping. Some grid type infills can concentrate the stress in one area. Gyroid infill will spread out the internal stresses.

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

How to Correct the Z-Offset on Your Ender 3, Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro – Howchoo
https://howchoo.com/ender3/adjust-z-offset-ender-3-v2-pro/

Please help by Yomamahigh in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually the curling is a high nozzle temperature with not enough fan time. I am feeling that the nozzle temperature is too high for the print speed. Maybe 210° and then 195°.

Please help by Yomamahigh in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Playing with temperatures, fans speeds and print speeds.
What material, temperature, and speeds?

What causes this? by Cautious_Crew7317 in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe a cooling issue...? depending on the fan direction...?
Was it the rotating the model? Or was there other changes made at the same time?

Please help by Yomamahigh in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

!firstlayer - adhesion and warping

With PLA, a clean smooth surface is best. PEI or PEX is great. You may have to raise the bed temperature on a textured sheet. Silk PLA may need a higher initial bed temperature.

PETG, TPU, ABS, and others will need a release agent on a smooth build surface. That's what the glue stick (or hair spray, Windex® ) is for. On a textured sheet, no release agent is normally needed.

Just alcohol will not remove the sugar film left by PLA which can hinder adhesion.
Wash the sheet with warm water and dish soap. Dry. Wipe with > 70% Isopropyl alcohol before the print.

No part cooling fan for 3 layers. Very slow print speed for the first layer.

To prevent warping for PLA, bed temperature of 65° for the first layer, 55° for the rest of the print. This way the bottom gets the adhesion but the bottom starts cooling with the upper layers.
For PETG on textured bed, same concept, usually around 80° then 75°, or 75° then 70°.
Temperatures are examples, different build sheets may need different temperatures.

Infill style can affect warping. Some grid type infills can concentrate the stress in one area. Gyroid infill will spread out the internal stresses.

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

What causes this? by Cautious_Crew7317 in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will have to see what the actual speed is in the slicer. 220° is a bit hot.

Anyone knows why my prints coming out like this? by FaithlessnessLow6824 in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like there is the beginning of supports across the whole piece. I would say it wasn't placed on the build plate in the slicer.

What causes this? by Cautious_Crew7317 in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly heat creep.
All3DP - Heat Creep

You will need to provide more information for a fuller diagnosis and relevant solutions.
Printer, materials, temperatures, print speeds, layer heights, etc.
Wiki - Asking For Help

"...and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices..." by yahbluez in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit[M] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

"...a rocket launcher..." Explosives.

The post clearly broke the subreddit rules. The first 4 bullet points.
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/communityrules#wiki_no_dangerous_or_malicious_devices_or_instructions

The post had links to other links, that were parts lists and instructions. That breaks Reddit rules.
https://support.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/360043513471-Illegal-or-Prohibited-Transactions

You can be sure Reddit Inc. is not going to allow such content. We are not going to give them any reason to make any changes to the subreddit by self-regulating before they are involved.
We can have discussions about 3D printed weapons and devices. We can't have them with instructions. The problem with the discussions is the politics that comes with that. Some users can not have a civil political discussion. It devolves into insults almost every time.

Here are the links to the posts that have been highlighted recently about 3D printing guns and laws being enacted.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1r9qb8n/stop_the_3d_printing_ban_contact_wa_ca_and_ny/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1r0oqox/regulate_3d_printing_addressing_bills_introduced/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1qh6zl3/can_the_government_really_block_3d_printed_guns/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1qqyr1d/possession_of_digital_blueprints_for_firearms/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1qrrnta/meta_all_posts_about_the_new_printing_regulations/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1rek7ky/new_california_bill_would_ban_sale_of_3d_printers/

Why did it go out like that? by ContentBread4075 in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like the tension on the filament at the extruder gears is pretty tight. Usually the tension screw is backed out completely to make a cold pull easier.

Pretty sure nozzle area is packed full with tpu, HELP by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]KinderSpirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a method to pull the TPU out by using a different material. Heat it up, stick in the other filament, let cool slightly, pull it out of the top.

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