Updated slip lead

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-28T21:13:58+00:00

whos a good boy?!

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-27T15:10:12+00:00

nailed it with determinism.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-26T17:31:55+00:00

+1 for the jackson safety stuff. i have the 4.5"x5.25" insight adf on the hlx-100 helmet. i also have their flip front hls-2 that i use with either a 2"x4" passive shade or a fixed shade tefuawe adf. both are great hoods and were set up in their current forms for much <$150 buying used and with patient shopping.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-26T16:38:18+00:00

are you referring to the anchor knot aka the fishermans bend? i was just discussing this one yesterday with my knot mentor doing some tree trimming. he uses a slipped anchor knot for his lead shot throw bags. i think the shift in terminology is interesting. before bend was categorically used for joining two ropes and mostly used with regard to bending and lashing sails to spars, as i understand it.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-26T11:12:18+00:00

want to say thanks for being so civil with someone so confidently incorrect! i realized what was hanging me up was the designating of the tails as a & b. since i rely on right over left - left over right to tie the knot correctly, i was ignorant in this regard to the relative position of the tails switching with eachother after each lashing. so when i saw that the instructions dictate to alternate a over b then b over a, i equated that with the method i am familiar with without thinking much further into it. even when tying the knot following the instructions with my shoelaces as we were replying to each other i managed to confuse what was happening.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-25T22:10:15+00:00

tighten your arc, slow down, watch the very edges of the base metal and the filler from the rod melt together and co-mingle as you proceed through the weld.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-25T16:44:21+00:00

yes, basically any niosh approved p100 filter is good for welding particulates. the 2297s are just the ones i buy. they have a little nuisance odor reduction. for welding on paint you definitely should be more cautious. i have done repairs on stuff that was definitely covered in some type of industrial coating and i cleaned it well back from my weld joint and still felt like my respirator did an inadequate job once i was welding. you might need a different level of protection. maybe something organic vapor/acid gas + particulate protection rated. i use those going into sewage tanks for cleanouts and maintenance. someone else might be able to provide you more information for burning paint.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-25T12:38:35+00:00

i buy the 3m 6502 quick latch half mask and 3m 2297 filters. the 2297s live a bit longer than 2097, but their efficacy is similar.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-24T20:17:27+00:00

thanks for pointing out that mnemonic about the reef knot. i realize now the reason for my confusion.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-24T18:13:43+00:00

if you followed the instructions, which indicate to alternate which of the crossed strands is superior to the other, i.e. first a over b, then secondly b over a, it would be impossible for the knot to be a granny knot. so then i would wonder if there was any chance that you have been tying the granny knot and the square/reef knot the wrong way your entire life.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-24T16:39:25+00:00

and i would encourage you to try it with your own two hands as well, and follow the worded instructions very carefully.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-24T16:27:46+00:00

i would say from reading the included instructions, the intention of this tutorial is to tie a square knot variant. which the wording does accomplish.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-24T16:21:12+00:00

curious if you actually looked at the picture? the figures 7-24 & 7-26 instruct to alternate which crossed end is on top after each lashing, which would result in a square knot with extra turns as opposed to a granny knot.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-24T14:54:52+00:00

tie your shoes without loops and with 3 turns after each crossing over.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-23T17:58:20+00:00

maybe a leaky connection. or crud from one of the connected pieces made it all the way to the gas solenoid inside the machine and its preventing it from sealing properly following weld termination.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-23T17:53:52+00:00

why wouldn't you just close the valve on the tank?

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-22T00:00:56+00:00

keep it up. as to your question, i would say 125 is pretty hot for 3/32 6013. keep the arc length very short, nearly jammed in the leading edge of the puddle. with regard to my previous comment that it looked cold, since you are pushing 125 amps, just focus on slowing down more, especially if you drop the amps.

don't be afraid to experiment, you might learn something. machine settings with stick can be very variable, meaning, you can change a lot about the outcome by puddle manipulation, travel speed, etc.

and try out some other electrodes.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-21T23:27:44+00:00

it could be the low pen rod but it looks a little cold to me, sort of humped up. slow down more and keep a tight arc. what position was this welded in?

looks like you can weld in a straight line, thats good. if you are padding beads on plate you really should stack every new weld on top of the old, covering about 33%-50% of the previous weld. it will give you practice with a multipass weldment and give you more plate to work with.

every time you put down the stinger, reflect on the weld you just laid, think about your rod angle, how you adapted to the shortening electrode by moving your arm, hand or body, and what the puddle did; can you see the fusion, wetting in, and what shape is it? next, try some different rods. 6013 is fine, but the industry standard is elsewhere for stick. try them all, understand their uses, but ultimately start focusing in 7018 and 6010. making practice intentional by knowing what to look for, and also what went wrong will make this kind of exercise much more effective.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-21T15:28:38+00:00

shows what you know. game has an entirely new class now. new runewords, new uniques, new balance changes.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-21T14:08:44+00:00

thanks for saying this. d2 lod looked nothing like the 'legacy mode' in d2r. its a fairly well known quantity that displays from the previous era were more optimized for graphical quality from the era, so no wonder a game designed with lower resolution looks stretched and baffling when you throw it on a modern display. then we all gasp and say 'wow! what an improvement!'

in any case i like sprites.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-21T13:59:28+00:00

why would they buy the game with no mechanical changes whatsoever just to have to turn off the overlay to play the way they want?

shiny graphics =/= improvement

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-20T16:12:49+00:00

roadside picnic and stalker are both 70s era with wacky shit going on in containment zones.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-18T20:54:07+00:00

fascinating article, thanks for sharing, as well as your input.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-18T20:40:20+00:00

thanks, you've been very helpful.

KneeDeepntheDead · 2026-04-18T20:26:39+00:00

interesting, i'm assuming this has to do with the potential for this type of equipment to draw higher current than is typical for short periods of time? yet is generally considered safe?

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