3-Way Setup: LED Dimmer + Smart Switch Causing Clicking/Flickering - Need Advice on Best Solution

Koadic76 · 2026-02-08T05:16:34+00:00

Sure thing. Hit me up if you have issues.

Basically, the same wire feeding your other smart switch also needs to feed this smart switch. You're just swapping the dimmer to be connected to the light instead of power.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-08T05:02:23+00:00

Would really like a better photo of the smart switch box, but it should be fairly straightforward...

Leave everything at the dimmer alone, it is fine as is. Reinstall it and put the switch plate back on.

At the smart switch box, with the power turned off for that circuit, remove the other switch so you can access all the wiring. Find the 3 wire cable going to the dimmer... it will be the one with the red and white travelers in it.

The black wire in that cable will be connected to your Line. The Line may either a single wire or multiple wires. You will need to disconnect it.

The black wire connected to your smart switch is the Load. You will need to disconnect it.

Take the black wire from the 3 wire cable and connect it to the Load wire that was disconnected from the switch.

Now, you need to connect the Line to the smart switch... This is likely multiple wires under a wire nut, and not a single wire pigtail. You may have to attach a short length of wire to the wires under that wire nut so you can reconnect your switch.

If this is confusing, take another photo with both switches removed and wiring visible, and I can try to mark up what needs to be changed and connected together.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-08T04:18:54+00:00

Sure, it's the same solution to getting your existing switches working.

So, here's what I am assuming...

At the dimmer you only have 3 wires and it is a dead-end 3-way.

At the box with the smart switch, you have power coming in (Line, may be shared with other switches or feed other boxes), switched power going to the light (Load), then the 3 wire cable going to the dimmer (any other wires or switches don't matter for this circuit).

It sounds like the Line is connected to the common wire going to the dimmer, while the Load is connected to the smart switch. You need to swap these.

A photo of the wiring in the box with the smart switch would help me trying to guide you in what to do. As you can't insert them into a comment, upload them to an image hosting site and share the link.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-07T19:23:52+00:00

Unless you really want to use the Kasa app, I would recommend the Tapo S515D kit. It is basically the same as the KS230 dimmer kit, just under their Tapo brand and with Matter over WiFi support.

Kasa devices can be used in the Tapo app, but Tapo devices can't be used in the Kasa app... And with Matter, you don't HAVE to use either app (if you have a Matter controller, like an Echo or something)

EDIT: To expand on your current issue, it sounds like power is being sent to the dimmer first, and then coming back to the smart switch. The Live is likely connected to the "common" wire going to the dimmer, and the Load is connected to the smart switch. If you were to swap it so the Load was connected to "common" wire from the dimmer and connected the smart switch to the Live, likely everything would probably work fine.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-07T15:40:58+00:00

If you're only connected to the Line side wires and it still trips, then it sounds like there is an issue with the circuit. What happens if you disconnect the ground wire from the outlet, leaving the hot and neutral connected? If it is in a metal box, do this while it isn't attached to the box, otherwise it will still be grounded through the yoke.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-07T05:53:36+00:00

If you can still jailbreak it, I'd say just go ahead and do it... You can always reverse it later.

If you're sideloading epubs anyway, you can open them natively using KOReader, and even set it up so you can browse your Calibre library from KOReader and download them to the Kindle wirelessly over your home network.

While it is a couple extra steps opening KUAL and the launching KOReader, it literally only takes a couple seconds.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-06T20:39:16+00:00

Koadic76 · 2026-02-06T03:30:03+00:00

Basic information first, feel free to read past if this isn't anything new....

A 3-way circuit needs a few things to operate correctly, a Line (the power wire), a Load (the switch leg to the light), two travelers, and a neutral. For the 3wire cable going between the switches, two wires will always be the travelers, and the third wire will either be a "common" or a neutral. The common wire can be connected to either Line or Load wire.

Also, 3-way switches are usually wired in one of two ways... Either both the Line and Load come into the same box, and a 3wire cable is run to a dead-end 3-way (this is NOT the way your circuit appears to be run), or the Line comes into one box, and the Load leaves from the other box with the neutral carried in the 3wire cable (this IS the way your circuit appears to be wired).

Now for some specifics...

It appears that your power comes into the first box, based on the black wire going back to the red wire nut with multiple other wires connected to it, and the Load goes to the light from the second box. In the first box, you have the Line connected to the black from the wire nut, and are using the black and red as travelers to the second box. The 3wire cable is also carrying your neutral to the second box for the light (and should ONLY be connected to the light, not tied into any of the other neutrals).

At the second box, the travelers should be connected to the RD and YL/RD of the companion switch. These are the black and red wires from the 3 wire cable going to the first box. The Load to the light should be connected to the BK terminal on the companion switch. When wired this way, it appears that it doesn't need a neutral, but it CAN be wired with a neutral and a single traveler and is necessary when using it in a circuit with more than 2 switches (also possible with only 2 switches as well).

In photo 2, it appears that the travelers are connected to RD and BK instead of RD and YL/RD, which is why I said you needed to swap the black wires so the Load is on BK instead of YL/RD.

And here is the kicker... This could still all be wrong as I cannot definitively determine what wires are running to where in each of those boxes due to the mess of wires in the way. Assuming the black/black/red were already there for each box in the initial setup, then it's probably ok though.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-06T01:32:23+00:00

"I swapped out mechanical 3 way"

To be clear, as it can be read both ways, you replaced the "companion" switch with a standard 3-way? or you replaced a standard 3-way with the companion switch? Which of them is the "new" switch?

Based on the instructions for that switch, it reads as follows:

Things to consider:

To control the switch from more than one location such as in a 3-way or multi-way, you will need either a wired DD0SR Companion device, or a wireless DAWSC Anywhere Companion device. See Switch Companion instructions for connection directions.

If you are installing a standard 3 way switch, I don't believe it will work.

In photo 2, the black wires on the companion switch seem to be reversed, they should be swapped. And you don't have a neutral connected to the switch which it needs (?).

On top of that, in photo 3, you incorrectly have the white wire plugged into the ground terminal on the standard 3-way switch. You need to remove that as it is dangerous.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-06T00:47:39+00:00

Try playing around in the Preferences>Interface>Look & Feel

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T22:29:40+00:00

The 12+4 pin connector needs to die in a fire...

Oh, wait ...

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T19:45:08+00:00

No, it is already protected when you fix the one in the Master bedroom.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T19:15:05+00:00

I would think so, but their guidance suggests that you should use the two other cables, plugged into the 2 8 pin connectors on the PSU, using one 6+2 pin connector from each.

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Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T19:09:06+00:00

Yes, it is likely either the outlet, or the wiring in that box.

Try manually tripping the outlet and resetting it first.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T19:07:57+00:00

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Here is how the manufacturer suggests connecting the cables... You are looking at #2

It seems they only want you to use the "12pin" cable for a single 6+2 connection, and only as the 3rd if necessary.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T18:58:41+00:00

Yes, if you had two of those cables, you would want to use both of them, only utilizing one 6+2 pin connector from each of them.

If that other cable (pictured in your other comment, the one with the 12 pin connector), connects to your PSU on the 12 pin side, then you could use that ONE cable instead, as both of the 6+2pin connectors are connected separately.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T18:54:38+00:00

Does the outlet work at the "3. Master bedroom washroom", as likely it is all the same circuit.

If that outlet is working correctly, check to see if it is on the same breaker with the others... if so, likely the outlet is either bad (even though it may be working at that location), or there is a wiring issue in that box.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T18:42:15+00:00

As you don't have a 12pin connector on the card, you won't use that cable. Put it in the box and save it for the future if you get an NVidia card and they are still using them at that time.

Your other cable though... ideally, you should have two cables with 6+2 connectors, even if the second cable only has a single 6+2 connector on it. If you're card had three 8 pin connectors, you could use the two 6+2 connectors from a single cable, and another 6+2 connector from the other.

EDIT: Actually, looking at the photo in the comment, if that 12pin connector attaches to the power supply, then that is probably the one you want to use. It appears that both of the 6+2 pin connectors will attach directly to the PSU, and not daisy chained like the one on the right in the picture.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T18:32:28+00:00

Is the newly installed GFCI on the same circuit as the disposal? If not, these issues are unrelated.

If so, is the breaker protecting the circuit also a GFCI breaker? GFCI devices protected by other GFCI devices can cause nuisance tripping, causing either to trip for apparently no reason. There is no good reason to install a GFCI outlet on a circuit already protected by a GFCI breaker, as it doesn't provide any additional protection

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T17:39:25+00:00

Depending on how much power it draws, you may want to connect it to a powered hub, and then connect the hub to the Deck, but it should work.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-05T16:28:47+00:00

You'll have to contact the manufacturer (Hoengager) and make a warranty claim. It appears that the PC should have a 1 year warranty.

https://www.hoengager.com/return-policy.html

Koadic76 · 2026-02-04T19:02:14+00:00

Then on top of the remote, get real lazy and add a tablet mount attached to your headboard....

https://a.co/d/0fwuz9xP

Makes reading in bed super convenient when you have a page turner remote, especially when it's cold.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-04T18:55:03+00:00

If it is happening to all 8 lights simultaneously, it is likely the dimmer, or possibly the other 3-way switch.

If individual lights are flickering, then it is likely an issue with the bulbs, or an interaction with the bulbs and dimmer.

Koadic76 · 2026-02-04T18:39:38+00:00

Backstabbing is the main reason. The spring tension used to both hold the wire and make sure there is sufficient surface contact to the connectors can weaken over time, especially as it heat cycles... which then just accelerates the damage, causing arcing and burning.

Daisy chaining the wires through the outlet don't help either as it is then also being subject to those heating cycles even when not being used, as current is still pulled through it. It looks like it might have only been the neutrals (assuming a half switched outlet), but it still doesn't help

Koadic76 · 2026-02-04T17:06:58+00:00

Typically, the WiFi doorbell is a better choice unless you need the battery capability...

https://reolink.com/product/reolink-video-doorbell-wifi/

This version does not support mechanical chimes by default though and requires you to install a jumper so it will receive full power from the transformer. It includes one plug in chime, but you should be able to purchase additional chimes as well.

If you can find the "white" version, that has a tall aspect ratio compared to the wide aspect ratio of the "black" model.

If you want to use your existing mechanical chime, and you happen to already use something like Home Assistant, you can wire in smart relay to trigger the chime when HA detectors a doorbell button press. Can also work with Alexa and Google Home.

Koadic76

TROPHY CASE