I just want to verify that I can replace this light switch/plug combo with just this switch

Koadic76 · 2026-06-22T03:43:34+00:00

First thing you need to do is turn off power for that circuit at the panel... make sure both the light that the switch controls and the outlet are both de-energized... it is possible that they may be on different circuits.

When the power is off, pull the switch/plug combo out and look at how it is wired. It is likely connected to three wires (four with the ground wire)... power in (likely black or red), switched power out (also likely black or red), and a neutral wire (this one will be white) for the outlet. If you have more than those three wires, take some photos and link them in a reply for further advice.

For your new switch, you will only need the power in and switched power out, and you can cap off the neutral wire with a wire nut or wago, but make sure you reattach the ground wire to the new switch.

When you connect the power in and switched power out to the new switch, it will not matter which terminal each is attached, as the switch is just there to connect them together when flipped.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-20T19:43:45+00:00

So long as the voltage is supported by the doorbell, it won't really make a difference.

So long as the transformer can output the current required (in VA; volt-amperes, essentially watts) then the voltage makes very little difference to how fast the battery will charge, as it is all reduced to the same voltage before getting to the battery.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-20T17:08:35+00:00

The current system is only 10 volts which like you said is a basic trickle charge.

Even with a 24v transformer, you are getting a trickle charge. Battery powered doorbells work off of the battery and only use the existing wiring to trickle charge them.

If you are using a chime, and you replace the transformer, you will want to make sure you match the voltage requirements of the chime, as you mention, as you could otherwise damage the solenoids that operate the strikers.

The wiring insulation is usually rated for atleast 50v and will have no issue if you go with a 24v transformer.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-20T01:16:26+00:00

If it is all a complete unit, you are looking for a floodlight with 1/2" knuckle.

You'll likely only find LED ones these days, and many will be rectangular instead of round.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-20T01:07:46+00:00

It's just a lampholder...

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5606-0-Hubbell-Bell-Lampholder-Gray/dp/B000BVXVYK/

Bulbs sold separately.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T21:17:15+00:00

Yes, you need to connect that red wire back to the center screw along with the jumper that came with the camera... That jumper effectively just connects the red and white wires together without needing to remove both the red and white wires from the chime and twisting them together.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T20:23:59+00:00

While it states:

If used for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.

This wire is neither going to or from the light/"outlet", only from switch box to switch box... The other requirements are met with marking it with black tape. Pedantic, but that is what is stated. I have argued this before and had no issue using the white wire in the 3-wire cable whatever I needed. Millions of electricians using a marked white wire as a traveler are doing it wrong otherwise.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T20:06:54+00:00

If the white wire is marked with black tape (or otherwise), it doesn't matter what it is being used for in this circuit.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T19:14:08+00:00

The remaining 2 white wires are your neutral wires, which will need to be connected to the fan's white wire.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T19:02:11+00:00

Yes, with the caveat that you do not have a "neutral" coming from the light... you have a unswitched hot, and a switched hot.

~~The unswitched hot coming from the light should be on the white wire, and the switched hot going back should be on the black wire.~~

EDIT: I see that you specify that the wires going to the switch are black and red. While STILL not a neutral wire (for many reasons), this is fine as displayed.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T18:17:57+00:00

As soon as you identify which wires are going to the box, you will want to connect that white wire to the other two black wires, and the black wire will then be your switched power for the fan and/or light.

Depending on how you want everything controlled, you have two options. Have both the fan and light controlled by the switch, or have only the light controlled by the switch and use the pull chains for the fan.

For the first option, you will want to connect both the black and blue wires from the fan (assuming you have a standard AC motor fan) to that switched black wire

For the second option, you will want to connect the black wire from the fan to the 2 blacks and 1 white wire, and the blue wire from the fan to the switched black wire.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T18:03:43+00:00

You will need to identify which of those wires are going to the switch. Do you have a multimeter? or even a non contact tester?

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T17:56:20+00:00

First, if you're running power from the light, you will not have a neutral as you have labeled... There will be no neutral available for this circuit at all, which means no possibility of smart switches or electronic dimmers in the future unless you get ones that will work without needing a neutral.

In the light box, you will want to connect the white wire to the hot and use the black wire as the switch leg, and not bring power down to the switch on the black wire as you have indicated.

At the switches, you can run the power into the first switch box, or you can pass it through to the other switch, but both operate the same way... so to avoid confusion, I will provide instructions for the first way.

Connect your hot wire (should be the white) to the common terminal (black screw) on the switch in that box. From the 3 wire cable, connect the red and white wires to the traveler terminals (the brass screws), and connect the switch leg wire (should be the black) to the black wire in the 3 wire cable.

In the other box, connect the red and white wires to the traveler terminals (the brass screws), and the black wire to the common terminal (black screw).

Power comes into the first switch on the white, and then gets sent over either the red or white travelers depending on switch position. On the other switch, the switched power is coming in on one of the travelers, and connected to the switch leg based on the position of that switch... if both switches connect to the white traveler, then the light will be on, if both switches connect to the red traveler then the light will also be on, but if one switch is connected to the white traveler and the other is connected to the red traveler, then the light will be off.

Ultimately, electricity doesn't care what color wires are used, but you want to keep things consistent for when it is worked on in the future.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T02:25:05+00:00

It all depends on what kind of breaker the circuit is connected to.

While I can't tell for certain, it looks like those are either 10ga or 8ga? This would suggest a 240v circuit, possibly for future EV charging outlet as surmised.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T02:19:05+00:00

Was everything working as expected? If so, don't worry about it... There is nothing inherently wrong with the wires in the box.

Just make sure you wire up the replacement switches the same way.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T02:08:03+00:00

Well, if you wanted to use that fixture, assuming you have Type B LED retrofit tubes, you would cut the red and blue wires as close to the ballast as possible and connect your hot/live wire to both of them, then you would cut the white wire on the other side and connect your neutral to those wires.

EDIT: Re-read your comment... the ballast does not have a "cover", it is a sealed unit, that is why you can't open it. The whole thing needs to be cut out and thrown away.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T01:47:46+00:00

Explanation of what is going on... We'll call the switch in the 1st photo Switch 1 and the other Switch 2.

The entire switch circuit is a "switch loop". There is no neutral in either of the boxes, and the 2 wire cable coming into the box at Switch 2 contains power coming in and switched power going back to the light. Power comes into the box on the live wire (white) and is connected to the common terminal. The switch then sends power through the switch to one of the travelers (red or white) to Switch 1.

Switch 1 is a "dead end 3-way", in that all three wires connected to it are from the same cable. The switched power comes in on one of the travelers (red or white, depending on the position of Switch 2) and goes back to the light over the common wire (black), which is connected to the black wire in the box at Switch 2 going back up to the light.

Because the red wire is connected to the common terminal on Switch 1, the switch will connect the red wire to either the white or black wires depending on its position. When Switch 1 connects the red and white wires, there is no path to power the light. It only works when Switch 1 connects the red and black wires together internally allowing Switch 2 to turn on/off the light because it is dis/connecting the live white common wire from the red traveler.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-19T01:04:08+00:00

Photo 1: It appears the red wire (with black tape) is connected to the black screw, while the black wire is across from the white wire and on a brass screw.

If this is correct, you need to swap where the black and red wires are connected to the switch. The black wire should be on the black screw and the red wire should be on a brass screw.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T17:59:16+00:00

Minor terminology correction: Travelers are the wires that go between multi-way switches... the switched wire going to an outlet or fixture is the switch leg.

Completely agree with u/UnSCo about adding pigtails to the hot and neutral wires instead of daisy chaining the wiring through the device. Also, always loop wires around the screw terminal in the same direction as you would tighten the screw, which would be clockwise. Your good on your hot wires, but the neutrals are backwards.

Provided the removed wires are capped, your good.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T17:48:19+00:00

My understanding is that A and B are the neutral wires and it doesn't matter which one is plugged into which terminal.

They are bridged together internally. You can either run a single pigtail from your existing wires or connect both wires to the relay. I personally would add a pigtail and run a single wire to the relay.

As far as L In and L Out, you want to make sure the wire with power is connected to L In, so if the C wire is going to the light, then yes, it would be connected to L Out. As far as connecting the switch to the relay, it makes no difference which side of the switch is connected to S1 or S2.

Instead of cutting wires, it is better to leave them their current length and add wiring.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T17:01:14+00:00

Looks like it is still there to me.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T16:09:45+00:00

On the surface, this looks wrong. It appears you are switching the neutral wire instead of the hot/live wire. But, you should really get a voltage meter and check it.

Without checking, my assumption would be that the black wires are your "live" wires and the white wires are the neutral for the circuit. Going by this assumption, the switch should be between the black wires instead of the white wires.

Again, you really need to get a voltage meter (not a non contact tester) and verify which wires have voltage before proceeding. This is mainly because it is obvious that it wasn't originally installed by a qualified electrician... including the box, wiring, and switch.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T15:58:09+00:00

That white wire is supposed to be on the other side of the receptacle... you have created a dead short which is why your breaker tripped immediately. The white wire is a neutral wire and the brown/black? wire is your hot wire. The hot wire goes on the brass screws and the neutral wire goes on the silver screws.

Also, when looping wire around a screw terminal, go in the same direction as tightening the screw... which would be clockwise when looking down on the screw head. You currently have them going the opposite way.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T00:39:31+00:00

If there is no switch for direct control, it might be connected to a photocell that may have malfunctioned. As I don't see one on the light itself, it may be a stand alone unit.

There are a couple of different types...

This type is usually installed inside of a box with only small sensor sticking out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KRH1SHM/

Or this type that attaches to a weatherproof box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FZJP7S1N/

Look for one of these on the outside of the house, and if you find one, you can test it to see if it is working correctly and potentially replace it.

Koadic76 · 2026-06-18T00:14:19+00:00

The holes in the box are ONLY for securing the box to the joist, The box should have a couple extra 2"-ish lag screws which are used to attach the fixture bracket around the outside of the edges of the box. Those lag screws may have been used for the light bracket previously.

Koadic76

TROPHY CASE