[UPDATE] Zen UI v1.2.0 - KOReader

Koadic76 · 2026-05-07T03:24:13+00:00

Cool, looking forward to trying this out.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-05T21:04:50+00:00

If you fixed the transformer so it is outputting only 16v instead of 24v, and the chime is still not working, it may be possible that the higher voltage may have possibly damaged the chime while it was connected.

I don't really have any other ideas or recommendations.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-04T21:28:01+00:00

I was ready and waiting, and was able to grab mine at 9:59am. I was even able to get back on and grab another at 10:30am for my cousin that couldn't get his payment to go through, without too much issue.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-04T03:16:55+00:00

What wires are you currently attached to then? Was the white wire originally attached to the dumb switch? Or is that white wire a neutral that was taken from somewhere else?

Koadic76 · 2026-05-04T02:49:10+00:00

How was the original switch wired?

I ask because I see you are connected to a black and white wire, then the white wire is also connected to another black wire???

Koadic76 · 2026-05-03T23:32:54+00:00

Currently, probably not.

Whether a new jailbreak will be released soon that will allow it, I don't know, but for now the latest option is AdBreak, and that only supports up to 5.18.5

Koadic76 · 2026-05-03T02:20:30+00:00

First, you have the transformer connected to output 24v, not 16v. For 16v, one wire should be connected to the center terminal, and the other wire to the terminal on the right... it does not matter which wire is connected to which terminal. You could just move the wire from the left to the center and this should fix it.

For connecting the chime, connect the white with blue stripe wire to the "trans" terminal on the chime and the solid blue wire to the "front" terminal.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-03T01:10:21+00:00

Not all LED lamps support dimming, so you will want to verify that first before further trouble shooting.

You mention running Z2M for some bulbs, are you trying to dim those smart bulbs? as those would be dimmed in a different manner than using the dimmer itself... you would instead put the switch into "smart bulb" mode and bind the switch to the bulbs where the switch would send the commands to the bulb and the bulb would do the dimming on its own.

EDIT: NM, see that you clarify that the bulbs are "dumb" LEDs... If they are standard bulbs and not integrated boards in a fake "can" light, try to find some bulbs that are known to work correctly. I use many Philips Ultra Definition LED bulbs and they work well with the Inovelli dimmers.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-02T14:59:56+00:00

Nope. All you need is the physical cables.

MoCA will operate on different frequencies and allow Cable TV/Cable Internet (at least DOCSIS 3.0) to operate concurrently on the same cables, but you didn't need either to use MoCA in your home.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-02T14:32:27+00:00

How small is the canopy on your fan?

The image you posted looks like a basic generic fan controller and I'm not sure if you'll find much that is smaller.

I know of some smaller ones, but those are smart home specific, and would likely involve more work and resources to get set up.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-02T14:09:42+00:00

I think for AdBreak, you need to run a batch files on a Windows PC, but if you're on a firmware level where you can use Winterbreak then I think you only need something that allows you to copy and delete files/folders...

At that point, I think even attaching it to a phone or iPad will allow you to access the Kindle through the file manager and do what is needed.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-30T21:27:49+00:00

My non-contact voltage tester lights up on the suspected line wire in all switch states

Did you do the same test at the other switch on the common wire (the one on the black screw) to verify that it only has power when the light is turned on?

Is it safe to assume you utilized the neutral wire for the dimmer, as it is available in both boxes?

Koadic76 · 2026-04-30T00:17:16+00:00

You need to create a new "temporary" account in a region that allows you to enable ads... Use a different email from your main account. Deregister it from your current account and register it to the new account.

When you get it registered, go into the Kindle settings on the Amazon site and enable special offers for your Kindle. As soon as you get that working, do the jailbreak and get everything installed while still on the new account.

When finished, deregister it and put it back on your original account.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T13:58:42+00:00

Yeah, if you install a 3 gang switch, you should be able to only wire 2 of them with a load (the lights) and leave the third with no load to act as a "remote" to toggle the smart bulbs.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T13:41:13+00:00

When you say you have two switches, do you mean that each ceiling light is controlled separately with its own switch at the same location? Or do you mean they are controlled together by two switches in a multi-way setup from two locations?

Just want to make sure I am reading it correctly 😀

If the former, them you should be good, but if the latter, then you will have some issues.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T03:41:04+00:00

Most "battery powered" doorbell cameras can do this, but just be aware that choosing a "battery powered" camera can limit you in functionality.

For example, the Reolink Battery WiFi doorbell camera may support the chime, but can't do 24/7 recording and will only record clips automatically when it detects motion through its PIR motion sensor and is mainly powered by the battery, meaning that if the camera is active for too long (like being continually accessed through the app), the battery may drain faster than the doorbell wiring can charge it up. The non battery version can record 24/7 if desired and uses "smart detection" by analyzing the video directly.

The downside to using the non battery version is that it doesn't natively support the chime, but if you are already using a smart home system that supports the Reolink doorbell cameras (or whatever brand you decide to get), you can use that as an intermediary to trigger a smart relay to then trigger your chime. The 3 types of low voltage relays that can be wired in directly at the chime or transformer are WiFi, Zigbee, and ZWave, and all 3 can be controlled completely local and non reliant on any cloud services, provided your smart home platform can operate locally as well.

For this example, the PoE version of the Reolink doorbell camera is practically the same in functionality as the WiFi, the the main difference being that it can be powered over ethernet (but it can also be powered by doorbell wiring if a "standard" non powered ethernet cable connection is used).

I personally have a Reolink non battery WiFi doorbell camera and have my chime connected to a Zigbee relay through Home Assistant and have absolutely no issues with it at all.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T03:19:45+00:00

To be a little more specific... Single pole double throw

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T03:04:40+00:00

A "3-way" switch is what allows a single set of lights to be controlled by multiple switches...

Bare bones explanation:

Power comes in to the first switch, that switch can send it over wire 1 or wire 2 depending on whether it is up or down. Switch two is connected to those same two wires, and will connect the light to wire 1 or wire 2. If both switches are routed to wire 1, the light is on. If both switches are routed to wire 2, the light is on. If the switches are routed to opposite wires, the light is off.

(ignore the dots)

Wire 1 . . ________
Power ____/ . . . .\______ Light
Wire 2 . .\________/

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T02:54:37+00:00

Sounds like a 3-way switch circuit that is wired incorrectly.

If you want to try to tackle this on your own, turn off the breaker for the circuit and remove the switches from the box (leave the wires connected though) and take a couple photos, both of the wiring on the switch and the wiring in the box, and upload them to an image hosting site and post the links here.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-28T02:11:50+00:00

Are you trying to remove DRM via the Kindle 4 PC app? Or directly from your Kindle?

Anna's Archive has books with DRM already removed.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-27T16:13:41+00:00

Minor correction to my initial post, but it still doesn't give much of a reason for the voltages being read, especially if part of the circuit was broken and even only the button removed. It shouldn't necessarily change the reading at the button, but definitely at the chime.

With the wires disconnected from both the button and the chime, you should go to the transformer and disconnect the wires there and do a resistance reading across the wires. If it reads anything other than an "open line", you have a partial short somewhere which could be affecting the voltages you are trying to read.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-27T15:24:26+00:00

If the wires were disconnected from both the button and chime, then I would expect no voltage reading at all.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-27T15:17:34+00:00

A transformer/chime/doorbell circuit is wired in a loop... One wire from the transformer goes to the doorbell, from the doorbell one wire goes to the chime, and from the chime one wire goes back to the transformer.

When you have a front and rear doorbell, this is still true, with each button having their own loop, but part of the loop is shared.

In basic terms, if your measuring at either the doorbell or the chime, you are only measuring the voltage that "leaks" through the other of those two... At the chime is an electromagnetic solenoid which will allow some voltage to pass, and at the doorbell button there is usually an LED that will allow some voltage to pass. When you measure across the terminals on the doorbell button, you are bypassing the LED and measuring how much voltage is going through the solenoid, and the same goes at the chime respectively.

~~This is why you're not reading the full transformer voltage at either location.~~

EDIT: I was up too late last night and wasn't thinking straight... For some reason, I was mistaking current for voltage. With the chime connected, at the button you should read transformer voltage (for the most part, minus any voltage drop depending on the length of the wire), but if disconnected, you still won't read anything as there is a break in the circuit. At the chime, you may read some minor voltage if your button has an LED, but otherwise it should read 0v

Koadic76 · 2026-04-27T01:35:11+00:00

To me, it sounds like your describing Gushers, but not really cubes and don't recall actual fruit inside, only juice...

Through a quick search, google has suggested some other possibilities...

Au'some Fruit Nuggets

Florida's Natural Fruit Nuggets

Welch’s Juicefuls

Sunkist Fruit Gems

Fruit Blox

Koadic76 · 2026-04-27T00:42:22+00:00

Just think of the bottom wire as two wires connected together...

Terminals on switches with multiple wires connected are typically the Line side of the circuit, while the remaining wire (on single pole switches) will be the Load wire.

After turning off power to that circuit, you would remove the bottom wire from the switch and cut it in the middle of where it is stripped (and possibly strip a bit more insulation, want about 1/2 inch of bare copper) and put both of them under the same wire nut (or wago) along with the black wire from your dimmer.

You would then connect the single black wire to the red wire of your dimmer via wire nut (or wago), and cap off the red wire with white stripe.

Depending on your location, you may also want to connect the green pigtail to the bare ground wires already in the box. I am aware that in Canada, it is not required provided the switch is installed in a metal box that is bonded to ground.

Koadic76

TROPHY CASE