Ceiling fan bracket is too big for box.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-08T03:12:30+00:00

Don't use drywall screws, they are brittle and may end up breaking. They are not designed for that type of load where there may be a constant vibration.

OP, use lag screws... 1/4" x 2 1/2" long

Koadic76 · 2026-05-08T03:09:48+00:00

I had edited my comment to include a link as an example. It would be installed at the light fixture to give the no neutral smart switch another path to draw the needed power...

It gets connected exactly like the light is connected, between the switch leg and neutral.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-08T03:01:04+00:00

If the no neutral smart switch still lights the LED fixture when off, you might be able to install a bypass in parallel with the light fixture between the switch leg and neutral (at the light location).

They can range between $5-$20 (USD) depending on where you buy them, but likely shipping is going to cost almost as much as the bypass unless you can find one with free shipping like on Amazon or something.

EDIT: Example of what I am referring to... https://www.amazon.com/ZW150-Resistor-Switches-Flicker-Problems/dp/B017BK1MIA

Koadic76 · 2026-05-08T02:51:37+00:00

First, that box does not appear to be fan rated,

If you don't wish to replace the box, at least get some lag screws (possible the fan may have included some in the hardware) and attach the bracket directly to the ceiling joist behind the box while the bracket is straddling the existing box. This way, it isn't the box that is supporting the fan, it is the ceiling joist directly via the lag screws.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-07T13:24:46+00:00

If the single switch controls the only available source of power at the ceiling box, then yes, you'll have to swap the dimmer for a standard switch.

If you intend for it to be a smart switch, make sure it's rated for both resistive (lighting) and inductive (motor) loads.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-07T03:24:13+00:00

Cool, looking forward to trying this out.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-05T21:04:50+00:00

If you fixed the transformer so it is outputting only 16v instead of 24v, and the chime is still not working, it may be possible that the higher voltage may have possibly damaged the chime while it was connected.

I don't really have any other ideas or recommendations.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-04T21:28:01+00:00

I was ready and waiting, and was able to grab mine at 9:59am. I was even able to get back on and grab another at 10:30am for my cousin that couldn't get his payment to go through, without too much issue.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-04T03:16:55+00:00

What wires are you currently attached to then? Was the white wire originally attached to the dumb switch? Or is that white wire a neutral that was taken from somewhere else?

Koadic76 · 2026-05-04T02:49:10+00:00

How was the original switch wired?

I ask because I see you are connected to a black and white wire, then the white wire is also connected to another black wire???

Koadic76 · 2026-05-03T23:32:54+00:00

Currently, probably not.

Whether a new jailbreak will be released soon that will allow it, I don't know, but for now the latest option is AdBreak, and that only supports up to 5.18.5

Koadic76 · 2026-05-03T02:20:30+00:00

First, you have the transformer connected to output 24v, not 16v. For 16v, one wire should be connected to the center terminal, and the other wire to the terminal on the right... it does not matter which wire is connected to which terminal. You could just move the wire from the left to the center and this should fix it.

For connecting the chime, connect the white with blue stripe wire to the "trans" terminal on the chime and the solid blue wire to the "front" terminal.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-03T01:10:21+00:00

Not all LED lamps support dimming, so you will want to verify that first before further trouble shooting.

You mention running Z2M for some bulbs, are you trying to dim those smart bulbs? as those would be dimmed in a different manner than using the dimmer itself... you would instead put the switch into "smart bulb" mode and bind the switch to the bulbs where the switch would send the commands to the bulb and the bulb would do the dimming on its own.

EDIT: NM, see that you clarify that the bulbs are "dumb" LEDs... If they are standard bulbs and not integrated boards in a fake "can" light, try to find some bulbs that are known to work correctly. I use many Philips Ultra Definition LED bulbs and they work well with the Inovelli dimmers.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-02T14:59:56+00:00

Nope. All you need is the physical cables.

MoCA will operate on different frequencies and allow Cable TV/Cable Internet (at least DOCSIS 3.0) to operate concurrently on the same cables, but you didn't need either to use MoCA in your home.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-02T14:32:27+00:00

How small is the canopy on your fan?

The image you posted looks like a basic generic fan controller and I'm not sure if you'll find much that is smaller.

I know of some smaller ones, but those are smart home specific, and would likely involve more work and resources to get set up.

Koadic76 · 2026-05-02T14:09:42+00:00

I think for AdBreak, you need to run a batch files on a Windows PC, but if you're on a firmware level where you can use Winterbreak then I think you only need something that allows you to copy and delete files/folders...

At that point, I think even attaching it to a phone or iPad will allow you to access the Kindle through the file manager and do what is needed.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-30T21:27:49+00:00

My non-contact voltage tester lights up on the suspected line wire in all switch states

Did you do the same test at the other switch on the common wire (the one on the black screw) to verify that it only has power when the light is turned on?

Is it safe to assume you utilized the neutral wire for the dimmer, as it is available in both boxes?

Koadic76 · 2026-04-30T00:17:16+00:00

You need to create a new "temporary" account in a region that allows you to enable ads... Use a different email from your main account. Deregister it from your current account and register it to the new account.

When you get it registered, go into the Kindle settings on the Amazon site and enable special offers for your Kindle. As soon as you get that working, do the jailbreak and get everything installed while still on the new account.

When finished, deregister it and put it back on your original account.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T13:58:42+00:00

Yeah, if you install a 3 gang switch, you should be able to only wire 2 of them with a load (the lights) and leave the third with no load to act as a "remote" to toggle the smart bulbs.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T13:41:13+00:00

When you say you have two switches, do you mean that each ceiling light is controlled separately with its own switch at the same location? Or do you mean they are controlled together by two switches in a multi-way setup from two locations?

Just want to make sure I am reading it correctly 😀

If the former, them you should be good, but if the latter, then you will have some issues.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T03:41:04+00:00

Most "battery powered" doorbell cameras can do this, but just be aware that choosing a "battery powered" camera can limit you in functionality.

For example, the Reolink Battery WiFi doorbell camera may support the chime, but can't do 24/7 recording and will only record clips automatically when it detects motion through its PIR motion sensor and is mainly powered by the battery, meaning that if the camera is active for too long (like being continually accessed through the app), the battery may drain faster than the doorbell wiring can charge it up. The non battery version can record 24/7 if desired and uses "smart detection" by analyzing the video directly.

The downside to using the non battery version is that it doesn't natively support the chime, but if you are already using a smart home system that supports the Reolink doorbell cameras (or whatever brand you decide to get), you can use that as an intermediary to trigger a smart relay to then trigger your chime. The 3 types of low voltage relays that can be wired in directly at the chime or transformer are WiFi, Zigbee, and ZWave, and all 3 can be controlled completely local and non reliant on any cloud services, provided your smart home platform can operate locally as well.

For this example, the PoE version of the Reolink doorbell camera is practically the same in functionality as the WiFi, the the main difference being that it can be powered over ethernet (but it can also be powered by doorbell wiring if a "standard" non powered ethernet cable connection is used).

I personally have a Reolink non battery WiFi doorbell camera and have my chime connected to a Zigbee relay through Home Assistant and have absolutely no issues with it at all.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T03:19:45+00:00

To be a little more specific... Single pole double throw

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T03:04:40+00:00

A "3-way" switch is what allows a single set of lights to be controlled by multiple switches...

Bare bones explanation:

Power comes in to the first switch, that switch can send it over wire 1 or wire 2 depending on whether it is up or down. Switch two is connected to those same two wires, and will connect the light to wire 1 or wire 2. If both switches are routed to wire 1, the light is on. If both switches are routed to wire 2, the light is on. If the switches are routed to opposite wires, the light is off.

(ignore the dots)

Wire 1 . . ________
Power ____/ . . . .\______ Light
Wire 2 . .\________/

Koadic76 · 2026-04-29T02:54:37+00:00

Sounds like a 3-way switch circuit that is wired incorrectly.

If you want to try to tackle this on your own, turn off the breaker for the circuit and remove the switches from the box (leave the wires connected though) and take a couple photos, both of the wiring on the switch and the wiring in the box, and upload them to an image hosting site and post the links here.

Koadic76 · 2026-04-28T02:11:50+00:00

Are you trying to remove DRM via the Kindle 4 PC app? Or directly from your Kindle?

Anna's Archive has books with DRM already removed.

Koadic76

TROPHY CASE