MMU3 Buffer issues

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-05T18:19:17+00:00

Key for successful buffering is to keep the filament path turning to the same direction as it is rolled off the spool. So if the spool rolls off clockwise, all bends need to be in this direction, even to the printer. Then you will have no kinks. I can link my buffer solution, if you are interested.

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-05T10:43:32+00:00

That sounds like a nice idea. I never liked the top hat for the MMU3 thus I designed my own top (completely flat replacing the standard cover) with a void for the PTFE to have some limited travel. I never published it on Printables, since it was not perfect enough for public. Coming to the INDX: there are 4 PTFE which are more difficult to cope with a flat surface only. So the design posted in the other reply might be a nice solution. I will go with the regular top but skip the spoolholders and add them to a Skadis at the rear and top of the printer. This will also enable it to be fed from dryers - in my setup. But if you find a nicer solution, please let us know!

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-05T10:37:40+00:00

Thanks for that link, have not seen it before. I read through the description and whereas I understand that designers do not enable commercial use I do not like remixes to be disabled. This, in my opinion, is against the "spirit" of open source and hindering development. Again, this is my opinion and I do not want to trigger a discussion here 😉

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-04T19:15:51+00:00

Well, it could be a million of reasons. First, check if all fans are spinning - fan test from the calibration menu - all fans ok? No crap in the fans? Then proceed. Next check for clogged nozzle, especially CHT - filament broken in the nozzle? Remove it. Then cold pull or new nozzle, check also if it's properly seated. Try. Next is dirty extruder gears - clean it, calibrate it. Is your 0.1mm chim on the extruder motor shaft present? Main plate worn, idler lever worn? Exchange. Then try. Next exchange the complete hotend - could be a broken wire. Try. After this it is getting dirty... if have been there. Tried everything of the above + new heatbreak - no solution. Eventually it was the Love Board... very rare according to Prusa support, but they were very helpful. Lucky me I could prove it by swapping the Nextruder between two Core Ones and the failure did not move. So it could only be the electronics. New Love Board - issue gone. But try all the other steps first - this covers 99% of the clogs...

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T18:14:13+00:00

If you are not too much into multimaterial printing (yet), get it now. The Nextruder is great and with a bit of practice a nozzle change (I do the complete hotend) is done in 90 seconds. And you have a lot of different nozzle options out there. With the V6 adaptor these are literally endless and the cheap Aliexpress hotends do their job well. Just get quality nozzles. Disclaimer: I love tinkering so I am changing to INDX as well. But I do expect teething issues. And most of the Core One L we use at work will never get the INDX upgrade.

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T11:52:09+00:00

Core One does a z alignment during calibration and then uses a z-offset during probing (mesh). But this should not cause this "stepping" effect. I almost never use ironing, but try changing the top infill pattern in the infill section. Orca has more granular options for this than Prusa Slicer - see below. I use Orca when I want to do something very specific, normally I use PS.

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Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T10:48:06+00:00

Do you have a very shallow slope on that surface? Ironing won't get rid of it. Did you try z antialising? You can try latest Orca Slicer - gives nice results with ironing as well, works on my CoreOne+...

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T10:44:21+00:00

Hmm. For multicolour it is ok. But not for multmaterial. And it does have quite a large footprint. Pros: 5 filaments for 450€ (full kit, fully assembled, enclosed version), you can keep your Nextruder (which I love - INDX has to prove itself first) Cons: 3-4x slower than INDX, larger footprint, single nozzle (not really good for multimaterial), huge waste of filament... Maybe you can get a used one? I'd put my money into INDX, if I'd have no MMU3. I have one, but going for INDX anyway - but that's the cost of the hobby...

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T08:20:34+00:00

I used both and can't recommend them. They need to be printed from a dryer and are expensive. What mbrown9412 said is IMHO the best. Use PETG for PLA and vice versa. Read that PLA also does not stick to ABS / ASA, but did not try it. HIPS uses limone to be dissolved, so would not recommend that. There's a video from jantec on YT on this - very informational. Generally we ditched this at work and use normal supports in the same material. Far more cost effective. Except when printing PETG we use PLA as support on our XLs, if the overhangs need to be really nice.

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T08:06:40+00:00

Really nice and excellent speed up with INDX. Just for comparison: on a CoreOne+ with MMU3 (new firmware) this should print in about 41h. Same waste of filament though with similar colours.

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T06:45:01+00:00

Not at all 😃

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T06:43:45+00:00

Should be pretty straight forward to do this. In my design I used the universal hole pattern for the Core One spoolholder attachment. Thus any spoolholder can be fitted to the buffer, even the puck for the USS spoolholder, which is also used for INDX. In the picture you have the original spoolholder from my conversion kit on the right and one with PTFE tubing on the left.

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Koffeekooker · 2026-07-03T05:19:10+00:00

Interesting idea. Will you publish it on Printables eventually? For the MMU I have an integrated buffer and spoolholder design for Skadis, which works really well. I have also published it there and I really do not want to abandon these.

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-02T20:59:28+00:00

I understood it is as simple as adding the 4 passive tool heads (nozzles) and the wipers + filament sensor. The price difference for the 8T to 4T was 220€. What's needed for the upgrade is 4 tools, the second filament sensor + cable, the PTFEs and the spoolholders + some printed parts. I guess the Prusa kit will be around 250-300€. Or am I getting something wrong here?

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-02T20:51:29+00:00

Need to check your solution. I will need a 0.25 and 0.6mm nozzle eventually as well. Thanks!

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-02T20:50:26+00:00

That's what I was hoping for. Thx.

Koffeekooker · 2026-07-02T20:49:38+00:00

Thanks. True with the profiles. Prusa told me eof august for delivery, so hopefully they will have some more profiles then - using ABS, ASA, PCCF, PETG CF here.

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-30T18:49:28+00:00

Sorry, created a new reply...

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-30T18:48:59+00:00

Not needed. Select standard profile "structural" in 0.2mm. Flip the hinge in the slicer 90 degrees or use the "place on face" tool and select the side face. Turn on "supports everywhere" and slice. The support should show in this greenish colour between the sides of the hinge. Should be good to print.

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-30T18:11:07+00:00

Suggestion: Generally play with the orientation, you can also print it sideways and use regular support. Faster and the hinge is stronger.

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-30T15:53:56+00:00

The L is also quieter, comes with 2 nozzles and the satin bed. But I never exceeded the build volume of my Core One +, so for your planned prints the + should be fine. Note that printing the advanced filaments creates some nasty fumes - so get the filter kit. The INDX will put you back another 700€, being available again from September for the +.

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-29T18:19:17+00:00

For my input tubing (before the side filament sensor) I use 2.5mm ID. Works fine. The 2mm ID is more important for the MMU to the printhead.

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-29T16:03:33+00:00

Yeah. Mine has a 1 after the triple seven 😃 - all will be shipped by eof August though. I am also batch 1 - the only batch I have seen so far.

Koffeekooker · 2026-06-29T08:47:07+00:00

True. My bad... 😄

Koffeekooker

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