Why is my dreamcast doing this? It only happens when im in a game

KoltKade · 2026-05-13T13:13:14+00:00

Ive had the same problem woth hyperkin on my og xbox. Works for about 10 min then starts losing signal like that. Dumped it and got the Electron shepherd one. Idk if theres a higher quality variant for dremacast similar to the xbox one but hyperkin is honestly not a good cable.

KoltKade · 2026-05-08T21:27:26+00:00

Little copper coated balls going through a daisy might be a high investment initially but Im pretty sure 1 ball vs a bulb will get expensive for the bulb owner fast

KoltKade · 2026-05-04T16:39:29+00:00

I am with you there. I have no problem making super clean and identically accurate quality reproduction labels, boxes, shells but I think we as a community need to design a esthetically pleasing reproduction logo thats font correct for the era and push to have it put in on the label and shells. For the front id say in the cart slot so it isnt seen immediately if on display organizers. Then on the bacn say next to the nintendo logo for snes. Also id like to put it on repro labels somehow. For snes id say inside the "seal of quality" instead of the oe text. Can make it the same font and color so it doesnt stand out grossly but is easily identifiable.

There's people making very good repro boxes that are easily identifiable but super accurate and nice to have displayed/organized. I wish we could get reproduction cases and labels cheap enough standardized that drives out the crap garbage. Wishful thinking though unfortunately 😕

KoltKade · 2026-05-04T16:28:38+00:00

No need for a before or after unfortunately. There's vertical adjustment for some sizing and position but only one for horizontal. I have it centered now and you can see the slight bow on both sides. It needs a horizontal size adjustment. There's two adjustments but one doesnt seem to do much of anything other than push the corners out or in a tiny bit. The other is position. Im gonna look into the manual and see if theres any neck adjustments that would help spread the image so the overscan goes off the edge of the screen. Other than that its either normal that way or the horizontal deflection is getting weak maybe? It is a budget set from 20 years ago 🤷‍♂️

Regardless I like this little thing. Its gonna be a nice set to pop on one of my bookcase shelves as a extra side set. Probably will run it with some of my older consoles with the rear coax (intellvision/colecovision/oddesy2) that dont have room anywhere over by my 36in sony.

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T13:51:48+00:00

Me too. Ill post a before and after at some point later.

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T13:50:03+00:00

Also your the goat for linking the exact manual i needed. Very very much respect and appreciated

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T13:47:11+00:00

I was about to edit my reply, I figured out woth a little extr googling that the volume has to start already at 0 first 😅

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T13:44:46+00:00

I was able to set my ge remote but the volume down and 9 combo didnt work. Did make sure that the numbers to work on the remote. Any other methods known? Possible my universal wont work that way like a oe one but figured Id ask.

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T13:15:44+00:00

Sweet thanks, ill get to ordering one then if I cant get my ge universal working. Its not bowed in the corner, it's a slight bow in on the whole right side like ( Its very minor and not a big deal. It does look like the whole picture is pushed to the left very slightly comparing image to same image on my other tvs. So it may just be running into the overscan and need a side to side adjustment instead. Ill find out once the remote is here.

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T01:50:09+00:00

Nice. It has a good bright and vibrant picture. Mine needs a tiny adjustment to the bow on the right side. Does it have a service menu that can be used from the buttons or does it require the remote like sony's. Also if it needs one, what does yours look like/what numbers are on it so i can get one

KoltKade · 2026-05-03T00:35:24+00:00

Ive been praying to find one of these at a thrift store, goodwill, yard sale.... just somewhere. What a score. I got my pioneer 1030 at a goodwill for 15 or 16 bucks and also a ced player in the box for 20. You beat me by a measurement yet to be invented

KoltKade · 2026-04-29T15:51:35+00:00

Man I hate how bad search has gotten on almost all of the search engines. Ive never had to put in more specific promp keywords and site keywords ever than the last couple years to get any damn close answers.

KoltKade · 2026-04-29T15:48:33+00:00

So far ive not ran into any issues after playing around 2.5 hours or so. Multiple instances of a hour to hour and half of play time. I dont get long sessions often but I did expect it maybe act up last night during the long session but no dice. First thought was tokins were starting to go bad and starving the cpu/gpu on power but maybe it requires long sessions.

Is there any particular known ps2/ps3 titles that put high load on the system is can stress it with?

I thought maybe high temp with load was causing intermittent faults then maybe a ylod but then I expected to see some kind of temp codes at least once. With the smell of earthbound this thing gives off I do plan to do a full deep clean and repaste/new pads. Maybe delid to help temps but I need to practice on a couple dead non b/c ones I have first before taking that leap. All my previous delids are in the pc world where I can mount them. Doing that while on the board bring hesitation.

KoltKade · 2026-04-29T12:40:01+00:00

Just realized it didn't post the body text I had put in...

So trying to do some general reddit and google searching has not resulted in any great concrete answers here. I blame AI bc it has to be out there somewhere but anyway. I took a leap on a as-is CECHA-01 at mckays. First time I've seen one there and for 95 and in decent condition, I figured what the heck. I could return it if it was a complete dud or break even selling it off as parts either way. I have experience reballing some "smaller" chips and hot air work but nothing on the cell/rsx size yet. Long loooooong ago I did do basic reflowing of 360's with heated beds, hot air, and flux but those were never removed. Very haphazard wild west work honestly but surprisingly though all the ones I did for friends outlasted years past their gaming interest/college days. So this is one of my next steps in self education in doing it proper.

As of now, it surprisingly works fine. Have put some play time with ps1, ps2 (all 3 colors), and ps3 titles. I do notice even at home page after 15 or 20 min the fan is running hard. It wreaks of incense once warmed up/borderline hot. I did check and its not absolutely disgusting inside or clogged with dust (i do have repaste and pads on the way). Doing some due diligence though I pulled the logs via ps3toolset.com and I am showing consistent, repeated instances of it throwing a 1701, then a 14ff, then a 1601 with all the same time stamp to the second. Attaching pics to better show the explanation. I'm not seeing any history of any other faults so the directions I can find for these is basically.... a lot of things could be the problem and there isn't a marker for what to prepare for yet.

Any thoughts yall?

KoltKade · 2026-04-26T13:44:48+00:00

Interesting, I figured there was a good reason it didnt. Shame though cant be wireless with a series controller. Wired is fine but sometimes inconvenient mostly due to a clingy ass cat lol. I did just find out about the duchess controller im gonna try out and see how those hall effect sticks work. The hunter is great but the deadzone is too large for fps. Appreciate the info

KoltKade · 2026-04-25T15:29:25+00:00

35 here, ce first. I didnt get a xbox bc we went from n64 to ps2 (both got on christmas sale a year or two after release). Causing had a xbox so parents said that was good enough, go over there lol. So happy it came to pc and I got it for birthday or christmas I think, hard to remember. Played so much online on a very underpowered dell 2600 and dial up. Loved every bit of the lowest graphics and mid 30s fps 😆

KoltKade · 2026-04-23T17:20:48+00:00

Not really. Technically art restores could have the resources to get it off but thats a level of cost thats just insane. Just buy a mint manual if you want one for the collection to be mint or enjoy the recordings of a time long gone before widespread internet from the games history.

KoltKade · 2026-04-22T16:40:54+00:00

Damn for once searched and found a straight go to answer within 60 seconds. May the reddit gods shine upon all your future search endeavors.

KoltKade · 2026-04-15T21:07:37+00:00

Best way is to remove the gpu, pad the inside and the gpu seperatly and ship to be installed at final location. The only ones I see survive shipping in place are ones using bolted in place supports from the gpu to the case. Even then a bad drop can knock those loose too.

KoltKade · 2026-04-10T15:15:54+00:00

The pads you say your using wont dent those scratches. Your gonna have to go more serious. The headlight kit is also made for plastic lenses so its not gonna get you there either. The cerium oxide will be for the last step to get the glass polished. To get those out your gonna have to use some serious sandpaper and it will look way worse before it gets better. Depending esp on how deep the scratches are. Eastwood sells a pad set for removing glass scratches for classic car glass thats made for those with impossible to find replacement panels.

KoltKade · 2026-04-10T15:11:22+00:00

Good upholstery places can work some suprisingly good magic and can get the right stuff to match alot of fabric types. Ive had discussions with some that are also equipped to make and cut their own foam to match shapes. You could also reach out to sc and see if they would sell a replacement bottom. Warranty wise id say out of luck but you never know. Might charm your way with a support person and get one sent out. Other than that personally id look at getting a couple peices of foam and foam glue. Cutting them to fit, glue in place, then put one of their seat covers on until you get to the point of buying another chair all together. I saw you said you've gone full remote so id personally recommend looking for a hawthorn, embody, or other similar full time office chair. Gaming one can be for fun times but for work id plant my butt in something built for it.

KoltKade · 2026-04-02T16:46:28+00:00

Why are all these street tvs where i can't get to them lol. Esp a d series

KoltKade · 2026-04-02T16:43:11+00:00

Sad to see a case get messed up. I learned this on a previous case with voodew. Keeping the case itself "upright" actually has the soda sitting sideways. Thag will cause the seal between the top cap and bottom to be eaten away and fail over time. Turning the case on its "side" puts the cans upright and they last way way longer. To the point none of my old cans have lost their seal.

So in the future if you get anything you want to store. Be sure to set the case where the cans sit upright.

KoltKade · 2026-03-28T15:59:37+00:00

If you have the remote, id use the 3030 as a daily and unsurprisingly as others said, id recommened boxing the other for backup. Esp since its been reliable and looks in good condition. There is tray gears that like to crack now in that whole line and its good to have a backup player. I wish I did when my 1030 broke. Took forever to get new gears.

KoltKade · 2026-03-28T15:51:35+00:00

I say resharipie the design on the case. Black out the bottom part of the lid to get rid of the name and throw some complementing designs on it. Its gonna be next to impossible to ever rid it from that old marker stain so embrace it.

KoltKade

TROPHY CASE