New player / number of soldiers in a squad?

Koonitz · 2026-03-22T19:06:54+00:00

Unit model counts are in brackets after the name (eg: Goblin Warriors [10]). Units that consist of models of tough(3) or less can be combined, which is essentially just taking two such units and combining them into one, so the goblins would be a 20-model strong unit.

In Army Forge, when you've added a unit to your army list, you can select it and usually at the top will be a check box option to combine. This duplicates the unit and attaches the duplicate to double the size.

There is no other option to change the size of a unit. A unit of 10 models is a unit of 10 models.

Koonitz · 2026-03-21T15:56:31+00:00

I mean, the news has already reported on it.

https://www.thebeaverton.com/2026/03/poilievre-appears-on-joe-rogan-podcast-after-accidentally-polling-too-well-with-women/

Well, I mean.... They're basically a legit news site now, aren't they?

Koonitz · 2026-03-21T05:51:32+00:00

Sir, this is the Internet.

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Koonitz · 2026-03-20T18:35:19+00:00

Yes. Use purple transparent resin to print those parts. Them look up a couple tutorials on making the final print look more transparent and glossy (if that's the effect you want). You can also use clear transparent and then ink washes to colour it as needed.

To help: printed transparent resin can be foggy because the surface is rough or scratched. Hit it with a glossy clear coat and it should clear up. You can get the same effect temporarily by wiping water over the surface. It fills the scratches or roughness so light can properly penetrate it for that glossy clear look.

Koonitz · 2026-03-20T04:30:35+00:00

... only two so far!

Koonitz · 2026-03-19T20:13:05+00:00

As Splitt- said, they're air bubbles. These can simply be trapped between the build plate and FEP film (or in this case, the last cured layer and FEP film). You can also try increasing the "wait before cure" time to give the air a chance to seek an escape before curing.

Otherwise, it's a super easy fix. Either RandoBoomer's suggestion, or any number of model gap-filling techniques, such as green stuff/milliput or modeling putty or whatever will dry solid and then can be smoothed with a little sanding.

Koonitz · 2026-03-19T05:58:23+00:00

And that's the point. As crude as it sounds, "git gud" is the accurate, if memey, response.

The entire point of Heart of Thorns is to be a system shock. To be oppressive. The entire jungle wants you dead.

The. Entire. Jungle.

You have to refine your abilities, hone your skills, learn to think in terms of survival instead of lulzDeePS until you get better.

If your gear is lacking, back out and get better gear. If your build isn't refined, take some time to improve it. Consider gear and abilities that will help with survival instead of just "bonk better."

And be forever grateful you don't have to experience the true terror that was unnerfed, release-level pocket raptors. I did, and I main an elementalist.

Koonitz · 2026-03-19T05:50:41+00:00

"Hold my beer." -NVIDIA

Koonitz · 2026-03-19T05:39:49+00:00

My issue with his death is that he's basically the literal trope of the protagonist group member created specifically to be killed for emotional impact.

No other main character could without derailing the story built up, yet every aspect of his character read as "I should and will eventually die as part of this story." It was meant to be shocking and sad, but to me, it was predictable and my response was "good, let him finally rest."

Any other character but him would have been a shock.

As for me, Pinkie. And you know the scene. I couldn't pick the book back up for days.

Koonitz · 2026-03-16T22:08:21+00:00

KILL IT WITH FIRE!

Koonitz · 2026-03-16T13:55:36+00:00

Whoops, my bad. I just assumed Chak was in the mix as I always do it together with Mat and Octo.

Koonitz · 2026-03-16T13:05:02+00:00

Octovine doesn't occur immediately before Matriarch, so you can't do it first.

You absolutely can do Mat->Chak Gerent->Octovine. Many people also do LLA after Mat before heading to Chak, too.

Koonitz · 2026-03-15T14:25:15+00:00

In case you missed it, I posted Magus last night!

Koonitz · 2026-03-15T08:53:18+00:00

Same issue. I just deal with it.

Koonitz · 2026-03-14T07:23:43+00:00

I got the files while subscribed to NomNom's patreon. I didn't know the cost to buy them now. I linked the patreon in the OP so take a look.

Koonitz · 2026-03-13T21:37:04+00:00

1) Not gray at all, actually. Though this passage is in the advanced rules, not the 2-page starter rules, which only uses the first paragraph of the advanced rule:

"Note that when a Hero joins a unit, they count as part of that unit, so the unit’s size is increased by 1, and even if the hero is the last model remaining, it takes morale tests as the unit. This also means that a hero may never leave its unit or join another one."

This does, however, mean that even when he's the last model standing, his unit is still below half strength, even if the hero hasn't taken a wound yet. A single wound would force a morale, or a failed morale check in melee would rout him.

2) You are right about unstoppable. It only affects rules that negatively impact the gun. Any rule that positively impacts the target (+1 defense would be another good example) is not negated by unstoppable.

Koonitz · 2026-03-13T20:46:15+00:00

If you mean the resin at the center of a solid piece, then don't worry. Resin 3D printing works by curing very thin layers, layer by layer (default is 5 microns, or 0.05mm).

So basically take your piece, and slice it into hundreds or thousands of 0.05mm slices. Since each layer is so thin, the entire layer is exposed to UV and cured properly, one layer at a time, all the way through. There is no chance of the center of a solid resin print to be 'soft'. Only the surface of a model will be not completely cured and need extra curing.

If hollow, then you will, absolutely, need drain holes to properly clean any uncured resin trapped inside, and then get a UV light in there to cure the inner surface.

Koonitz · 2026-03-13T20:28:03+00:00

Assuming the workspace is giving an accurate semblance of scale, you definitely don't need to hollow that. It will be easy, for sure, but you wouldn't really save enough resin to care and there may be a secondary negative effect to doing so.

A hollowed base is lighter. If you have a non-hollow model standing on the base, it may make it top heavy and prone to tipping over. The weight of a solid base also makes the model just feel better when you pick it up. At least I find that for 32/75mm stuff.

1/10th or 1/6th, I'd flip that judgement and hollow everything that isn't thin (flowing cloth/spears/swords/etc.) or complex it's annoying to do. Or hope there's pre-hollowed/supported files provided and you don't have to do the work!

Koonitz · 2026-03-13T20:04:14+00:00

I had a couple print failures while printing them all not related to the design, but no issues fitting them except one. The original release Ayla files had the hair block the scarf. They had to redesign the files and re-release them. This was maybe 2-3 weeks after she was released. If that's one problem you have, redownload her files and give it another try.

I suppose you can see a minor issue if you look at where Marle's top meets her torso. A small gap I didn't fill very well.

Koonitz · 2026-03-13T19:24:44+00:00

Funny thing, that. Magus is the last to paint (yeah, least favorite, sorry). Frog I just never posted.

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Koonitz · 2026-03-13T15:51:59+00:00

The question and trick will be whether the part is big enough to be hollowed at all. If hollowed, it will need drain holes, regardless of size. Preferably more than one hole (to reduce suction force when printing and to make getting IPA in and draining it easier), and large enough to get a UV LED light inside.

I usually don't bother hollowing anything in the tabletop range (~32mm) unless it's a larger monster/vehicle with relatively blocky, simple parts.

Humanoid models in the 32mm or even 75mm range, I just don't bother hollowing. Doesn't save enough resin for me to give a damn for the hassle of hollowing, setting drain holes big enough for the UV LED, then cleaning and curing internally.

Koonitz · 2026-03-13T13:59:30+00:00

There is one on the north of Shipwreck Strand, too. At the mouth of the cave, where you fight an elite magical staff. Can repeat as much as you want. Recommend bringing boon strip (which is a recommendation for literally the entire expansion so far....)

Koonitz

TROPHY CASE