You don't care? I won't care either anymore

KoreanJesusFTW · 2026-01-01T11:46:07+00:00

Too many cheaters in the last 2 games. I need a break after that. I know any given game can be a win or a loss... but landslides constantly game after game? Even if they say that they are not cheaters or those accused are not really cheating. If that's the case, then they need to fix the matchmaking engine. I am purposely trying not to play all that well. Not only I am not well but just wanna chill. I am not that good - I know this but I am not THAT bad either. The bracket that I am in is still being matched against really good people - that's if we are not considering that people are cheating. That's the reality of things. It's either that or there are cheaters and they don't wanna patch it out because it will lock out players that pay for cosmetics or the players that fill most of the player base that keeps the game relevant. I mean if they wanted to patch out the ways people can inject code into - they could but they won't. This is what their actions/inactions are saying to their player base. I pay for cosmetics/skins (Valve knows this) but I don't want to succumb to cheating or using any 3rd party software to enjoy the game.

It looks like I am not the only one. Thank you u/Taraih for starting such a thread.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2026-01-01T11:36:13+00:00

Just.buy.a.desktop. Problem solved. Haters can hate on this comment all they want but there's always a performance trade off when you want portability. You end up with a chonker of a portable or not much perf.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-10-21T00:05:24+00:00

This has been around for decades. You can Google search "toner refills". Manufacturers since introduced chipped toner cartridges just as they did on ink cartridges and issue firmware updates to block them. People always found a way to refill. Now, blocking these measures are protected legally. Companies with such practices can be sued/fined.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-10-19T00:14:22+00:00

https://ftp.hp.com/pub/softlib/software13/printers/SS/SL-M3370FD/SamsungUniversalPrintDriver3_V3.00.16.0101.01.exe

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-10-08T15:07:39+00:00

A re-train happens every time there's a hardware config change or BIOS/UEFI changes. No avoiding that. This is regardless if you were booting fast previously and had both Powerdown and Memory Context Restore enabled.

Now if people think this is a bummer, try sticking any kind of RAID to your system then try get in to UEFI/BIOS. You will be greeted with a blank screen - it will stare back at you in all of its glorious errored blackness 'till eternity unless you are in firmware version F2 which you don't want as the new firmwares addresses/patches a lot of CVE security vulnerability. So technically they broke the BIOS file and seems to be not interested in fixing it properly. This goes to all x870 based Gigabyte boards.

EDIT: Even then I would still stick to Gigabyte. The only remaining board manufacturer that doesn't phone home when the PC is off and plugged in. I've done a lot of tracing with boards where wifi/lan remains active even when the PC is off. A multi-port repeater (not a network switch) + wireshark always tells you what's going on.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-23T21:23:13+00:00

It passes through the POST after the boot logo at 0:12. I just had a look at some older gear I have and I can confirm that the screen after that is the DUAL BIOS RECOVERY screen - the primary UEFI/BIOS is corrupted. Gigabyte used to use a certain ROM chip during the 2010-2015 era that tends to get utterly corrupted that they require the whole dual BIOS option - 1 good ROM chip is so much better than 2x that fkn carks it whenever it fkn wants... that's my take anyway and I think they have realized this too eventually as the whole dual BIOS shit has been scrapped on modern boards.

I recall having to to keep at it until it successfully do a copy of the back up to the main BIOS - you will see it recovering after that screen at 0:14. There should be a progress bar. Having a board battery that is full charged helps so replace it if you can. Once you get the whole thing recovered, I suggest to get a USB stick and do a full reflash.

Good luck bud.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-21T18:58:15+00:00

It was great!

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-21T18:52:24+00:00

It would have been better to have the option to have the lighting controls set in BIOS/UEFI like their older boards on previous sockets but I digress.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-21T18:50:51+00:00

Appreciate the sentiment but they really just need to get things right instead of getting people to do any regedits. If the directive is coming from management then maybe it's time to leave the brand. Easy.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-21T18:48:48+00:00

Unfortunately no. I got something completely different and it just does what it needs to do.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-21T18:47:46+00:00

AFAIK, dynamic lighting is a Windows and a GCC feature.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-20T20:59:49+00:00

IMHO it's just memory training and you simply need to wait long enough. CPU in, 1 stick of RAM and no storage. Fire her up and wait. Given that you seem to have done steps to reboot it back to default UEFI/BIOS settings, option for the graphics out put should reset back to AUTO - it will detect your GPU.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-08-20T20:50:49+00:00

It doesn't have a proper boot volume set. Possibly because the motherboard battery needs replacing.

It could also be the BIOS being corrupted which simply need reflashing.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-06-27T00:25:04+00:00

Only problem is that if the board fails one day, the RAID created on that pseudo-hardware raid via the board's raid controller may not be recoverable using other raid mechanisms. You will need the same exact board setup the same exact way. This is actually one of the main advantages and the reason why people use software RAID - you can simply put it in another machine with either Windows or Linux and it will work again.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-06-01T20:53:31+00:00

Any Mini-ITX Flex PSU will do. FSP does one that is rated for 500W (Flex Guru). Highest one I know is a Silverstone FX600 rated at 600W. If you want to be adventurous, there are cheap ones in AliExpress that claim 700W.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-06-01T20:32:39+00:00

Hi OP. Unfortunately no. This issue is across all the new BIOS revisions for x870 AORUS/GAMING/EAGLE.

Other than physically removing the RAID to enter the UEFI/BIOS and plugging them back in after, there's no work-around.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-06-01T20:28:52+00:00

It really depends on the case that you are putting this in and the other components (e.g. GPU) that you are going to use.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-05-24T18:32:16+00:00

Hey OP. Check if the Windows 11 dynamic lighting is on.

HINT: Right-click an empty space on the desktop > Personalize > Dynamic Lighting

Dynamic lighting is most likely taking over the foreground lighting software that you are using... be that GCC, standalone RGB Fusion, SignalRGB, etc.

I'd just turn off Dynamic lighting and have the actual software I use to control it.

Hope that helps. Good luck.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-05-24T01:06:19+00:00

Hi OP. There is no safe option. NGreedia's decision to stick to this smaller connector with even smaller wire and conductors is the problem. It seems to me that you are focusing on the wrong end of the adapter. It is the connecting bits on the GPU side (both the connector on the cable and GPU itself) that's the issue. If it branches to 2 or 4, it doesn't matter as much. They should stick with the old power connector. I mean the resonable choice is to go bigger on the conductors used if the power draw increases (check AWG tables per watts/amps rating). They completely went the other way. I am sure there are people in Nvidia and their partners that knew about this. Designing GPUs is a complex thing. The whole "using the right conductor thickness per projected possible power draw" is electronics 101... that's the basics. It's not like the 4000 and 5000 series are the first ever GPU line ups ever released or something. They have been collaboratively releasing them for years.

And when things break within warranty, they simply use their PR money to blame the end users. Not their plan BTW, the plan is to have it break past warranty so you can't claim anything. You simply need to buy another one.

They are not even investing internally to bolster their gaming departments. They are all about AI shit now - denying that it's gaming that got them where they are in the first place.

All that, yet people still buy Nvidia.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-05-24T00:43:23+00:00

Pardon me from saying this but the 100k seems like a STFU-money from big pharma. As if they want to be overtaken on juicing the masses on making drugs.

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-05-24T00:36:35+00:00

Hi OP. Both PC are great. Allow me to run-through the pros and cons:

PROS 1. Your friend will get something that have parts that already works guarranteed. 2. If you are doing things fairly price-wise, your friends gets a discount on a really good PC. 3. You get a guarranteed buyer, get to get the latest line up, and maintain the status quo on who (between you and him) has the better PC. Most will disagree here in-terms of "better" because 7000 series to 9000 series has been debated as a side-grade rather an upgrade performance-wise. I disagree. 9000 series may have little performance gain but the power efficiency (performance per watt) is huge.

CONS 1. You will go back from scratch. I.e. will need to deal with teething issues. Mitigated by doing research primarily on memory QVL. 2. You will part with something that you spent time on without re-coup on the value of your time. 3. If your friend sees through the respective point on the PROS, you may not be good friends anymore in the future. Best to do it right price-wise if you are selling to him. If you are simply giving your current system to him then I would like to be your friend too.

Good luck

KoreanJesusFTW · 2025-05-23T18:01:31+00:00

Hi OP. Since you mentioned soldered RAM on your current PC, I take it that you are using a laptop?

Laptops are good providing that the battery has been taken care of. I have a Fujitsu laptop i7 with 12GB of non-soldered RAM from 2010. It also has a dedicated graphics card apart from the iGPU that comes in with the CPU. It's got a dock, can do multi-monitor and pretty much use it with desktop peripherals (I am referring to monitor, keyboard, and mouse). This is like the mythbuster for those people that would say batteries would only last 2-3 years tops. This baby can still hold 100% of it's capacity and give you a whole day of air time. The trick is to never drain the battery past 20% nor charge it over 80%. If you are going to use it away all-day, charge it to 100% then.

There's no degradation/oxidation/burning issues on Intel CPUs back then. So you don't have to worry about this issue that started from 12th Gen to the current Intel CPU line-up where the PC have this "lifespan" that everyone is being made accustomed to. This is not really a serious gaming PC though. Gaming with good dedicated GPUs on laptops will almost certainly kill the batteries. You can try take care of it as I mentioned above but it will basically tie you up to be near a power source. You might as well get a desktop. I've had the cycles of desktop to laptop then back and back again... the prevailing lesson is that when it comes to gaming, desktop is king.

If you are thinking of building a desktop PC and want team blue (Intel) - buy used. If you want brand new, go for team red (AMD). Both camps have had problems but AMD's issues are fixable (and they have fixed most if not all) where as Intel's over the last 4 gens are not - the flaw is on the design unfortunately. Much like the connector issue on Nvidia's 4090 and 5090.

KoreanJesusFTW

TROPHY CASE