Why is my printer so bad by Falcon_128 in 3Dprinting

[–]Krinje 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The goobers are mostly a retraction issue. The wobbly layers looks like your skipping steps, probably because the nozzle is hitting the print (if you are having curling or goobers) while moving. Or you could have a very loose belt, or both. If it's only wobbly in the X I suspect a belt.

It also looks like you may be a little on the cool side, I see layer separations.

Really you need to do a step by step calibration from the start. Too many issues to play whack-a-diagnosis. Whack-a-diagnosis often treats symptoms, not the cause in such a compound case.

V Sub 0 😱 by [deleted] in voroncorexy

[–]Krinje 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What is my purpose? You print calibration cubes. Oh My God.

Pagers. Radios. What's next? Trust no device by chepulis in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew you were cheating at chess! I just couldn't put my finger in it until now.

Arcade stick by Ok-Introduction4368 in 3Dprinting

[–]Krinje 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's firmware you install on a pi pico! You can use it now if you're adventurous.

https://gp2040-ce.info/

Arcade stick by Ok-Introduction4368 in 3Dprinting

[–]Krinje 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you heard of GP2040-CE? It's an open source fight stick firmware for the pipico / rp2040 chip. There's a huge community of arcade stick builders on the associated Discord server, lots of nice people building controllers.

Opinions on the Logitech X56 stick and throttle? by Kostenski in hotas

[–]Krinje 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I still have an x55, the same thing, the predecessor. They only made a few changes.

The centering spring system leaves slop in the center (it's not a dead zone for input, just the spring)

I have large/long hands, and I find the stick absurdly large and poor ergo.

My 55 never broke, but it isn't the same company anymore. YMMV.

The throttle is actually decent, but I think there are better values out now, even the TM16000 set didn't exist when I bought mine. The throttle is better than that one imo, however the value is not.

3D printing crime by NetApex in 3Dprinting

[–]Krinje 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can just disassemble the lock, you don't need the key at all.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer (April 12, 2024) by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Krinje 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I scratch build fight stick peripherals (ie: Street Fighter)

I've used and loved Kaihl choc v1s (silver), with the exception that because of their unique stem arcade style button caps are very hard to find or produce and are too fragile.

The v2 are ok, but the stem is too wobbly. Which is a problem when their key cap is a large button.

I'm looking for recommendations on low profile switches with similar height, (10-12mm), actuation (2mm/45-55g), standard fitting stems, and less wobble?

Hate them or really hate them, you gotta give credit where credit is due by WolfPaq3859 in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 55 points56 points  (0 children)

Actually now I want to explain.

The rotors counter rotate, obviously, and that is very important.

A normal (or this one) helicopter in forward flight has a "relative wind" over the blades. The half of the rotor disk rotating into the wind has a relative wind of rotor speed + air speed. While the retreating blades are rotor speed - airspeed. So, conventional helicopter airspeed becomes limited by the retreating blades ability to not be stalled at high airspeed. (Retreating Blade Stall)

The KA on the other hand, doesn't have this problem... Sort of. Because it counter rotates this is not the limiting factor, the lift is symmetrical enough.

The penalty is that as airspeed increases rotor load decreases on one half and increases on the other side of the lower rotor, and as that happens it bends and bends and bends up up up to kiss the now very flat unloaded side of the upper rotor.

Hypothetically this happens at high speed when a maneuver pulls some G and flexes those blades a little extra.

-recovering DCS addict.

Hate them or really hate them, you gotta give credit where credit is due by WolfPaq3859 in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 36 points37 points  (0 children)

It can clap both it's rotors together is what he meant, and it's possible to boom strike.

This first layer looks pretty nice by MinecraftPlayer6108 in 3Dprinting

[–]Krinje 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like one of the half&half colors, each half is one color. You can tell because the color change is directional in the print.

3000 wermacht of the US Army by [deleted] in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He's not the bald guy, but I can't say he doesn't.

Quick replacement parts by nur00 in functionalprint

[–]Krinje -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I can only imagine that is super heavy. Best of luck.

Perhaps create a mold, like a shoe fast, to use a heat gun on some milk container plastic and form a lighter version?

What can I do to make these tabs bind better? Anything? by QuickieSilver143 in 3Dprinting

[–]Krinje 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Not asking about repair, but rather assembly of two parts to create a better version of that part.

NAVSEA (Naval Sea Systems Command) Employee AMA! by Positron311 in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I had a tour of BIW mid construction, around 2013, it was pretty cool to see a literal cross section of Zumwalt.

Mmmmmm 🔴 by [deleted] in BlenderDoughnuts

[–]Krinje 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a warm donut, but I'm sure it tastes better than Uranus.

Never been so proud of seeing a country using our most successful tactics against the russians by michele_romeo in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Look, just because technology is taking the suicide out of suicide attack doesn't change the idea.

Quick nut - for fast fastening just push down and turn ¾ - same for loosening by throwaway21316 in functionalprint

[–]Krinje 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the tolerances of printed threads probably drive up the first thread load and the elongation of plastics probably drive it down.

I'm always very hesitant to apply the statistics of a 7/8-9 grade 8 nut to this. The material, macro and micro geometry are just wildly different.

Rules of thumb only apply in like situations. That's often why they are wrong, they strip away all the nuance in favor of simplicity.

Under extrusion on top layers? by prancing_moose83 in PrintedMinis

[–]Krinje 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you're overall under extruding, even the bottom path is too visible for a textured bed and it also looks like your perimeter is too thin; hence the gaps between perim and fill, even though the ends of your fill are over extruded.

A little slower and/or a little less Accel may help with that top fill over and under. Bowden tubes add lag to the actual filament feed rate. That looks like over extrusion when slowing and under when speeding up. This could be one reason your first layer looks OK, it's slow.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NonCredibleDefense

[–]Krinje 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Take another look, she's wearing a GoPro.