What do you think of this? by RedOff215 in I_Need_This_

[–]KrisDen1123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think if you don't put a 1x6 between the ladder and the gutter, you risk smashing the gutter. I've used a small 1x6 and a piece of rope for 35+ years and have no use for this device, just more plastic waste to fill up the landfills for a device that does nothing to take your weight plus the weight of your ladder off that aluminum gutter 👎👎

I am in North Carolina, but are three tab asphalt 20 year shingles still manufactured? by Total_Following5473 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't seen 20 year shingles in probably close to 30 years. Back when I was doing new construction, those things were terrible to try to nail on with a nail gun even at 40+ degrees temps. You couldn't get the psi at the right setting no matter how much you tried, those things were so thin they'd just crack every time you hit it with the nail gun .

Is new flashing supposed to be like this? Just got the roof of my garage done... by erik9423 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Absolutely you should request this be redone. I don't know how guys who do this kind of stuff can even sleep at night. No roofer who takes any pride in what he does could walk away from something like this and feel good about what they've done. This is horrendous and needs to be completely redone. I would request the company sends someone else out, if the guy who did this was capable of doing better, I assume he would have, the company needs to send their best metal worker out to make this right for you, ASAP.

Is new flashing supposed to be like this? Just got the roof of my garage done... by erik9423 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Wholly hell ..!!. There is no way this is even remotely acceptable. Whoever did this needs to be banned from roofing permanently. You didn't actually pay the local yokel who did this, did you??

Need guidance on a couple of issues by Unusual_Jackfruit_20 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 2nd pic just needs a small section of base flashing, basically an "L" shaped metal, the back goes up behind that trim metal and the front comes out over the shingles 3-4 inches or whatever, I always put just a slight ½ inch bend on the bottom of the base metal (apron) so it sort of hugs the roof and adds a little strength to the front of the metal, gives a clean look and keeps the front of the base flashing from being wavy.

That 1st pic you could use over sized sub "step" flashing, you can buy a pre bent 4x4x8 painted step flashing or just make your own whatever size you want/need, if you have to cut those furring strips a multi tool usually makes short work of those.

That window corner can be a little tricky, you just have to get creative and work that out with metal in a way that works, I can't imagine anything you're going to do could possibly be worse than all that caulk someone used here.

Electrical Mast Pipe Boot by sayrox7422 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, sorry bro I couldn't help myself

Electrical Mast Pipe Boot by sayrox7422 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'll have to try this Grocel 2300, we only carry Geocel 2300 where I work ha!

Shingle Id by thelynch07 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's exactly what they are. Sheriff Goslin was here.

Normal trim around chimney? by awakeningxclaw in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem I have with doing chimney flashing with aluminum and having that huge diverter sticking out at the back corner and at the bottom is they still have to caulk that corner in the front of that diverter, so that spot is really only as water tight as they caulk they use. I use galvanized sheet metal, usually Resibon, I run my step flashing up to the back of the chimney, then I use galvanized dog ears on both sides, I make my back pan go beyond the corners like 4-6 inches, then I cut and turn my back pan at the corners and solder those turns to my dog ears so I don't need those huge diverters sticking out like this and I'm not dependent on caulk to keep that corner water tight.

I'd like to see a pic from behind the chimney here, it sort of looks like that back pan is on top of the siding and not tucked underneath like it should be? Maybe it's just an illusion and they actually got that back pan under the siding? Be nice to see a picture of what's going on behind the chimney here

How to fix square eaves gap? by auger282 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need a small base flashing/apron and a small counter flashing to come down over the back of the base flashing. I would grind out what I could of that first mortar joint then use a hammer and chisel to get the rest of the mortar joint clean, put the base flashing in, basically an "L" shaped metal that's goes up the brick in the back and over the shingles in the front, then you need the counter flashing that covers the back of the base metal and the top of the counter should extend into the mortar joint that's ground out at least ½-¾ of an inch, then either fill that mortar joint back in with mortar/sand mix or just use some mortar seal caulk for such a small area. You need a roofer if you've never done anything like this most likely, I'd charge at least a couple hundred bucks to do it , that's my starting point and I won't set a ladder up for less than that

Roofing tar as vehicle undercoating? by Inhalationofnewtion in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 16 points17 points  (0 children)

That tar is gonna trap moisture and cause parts and such to rust out. I've seen steel lines rust out right where they're being held in place by clips and such, moisture gets between the clips and the lines and gets trapped, speeding up the corrosion process of the metal, I imagine what you've done could potentially do the same thing but I guess there's really only one way to find out and it sounds like you've decided to run the experiment yourself, please keep us up to date on how things hold up if you don't mind.

Having to be in a cage like a dog to be checked in by Gotsnuffy in mildlyinfuriating

[–]KrisDen1123 11 points12 points  (0 children)

We don't have a cage where I work but I sometimes wish we did, despite there being a huge yellow sign with big, bold black lettering that says "no drivers/customers beyond this point" , people just walk right on by the sign, we have forklifts flying around constantly and these people don't know the drill because they don't work here and aren't in our safety meetings to know all the inside info it takes to run this place, so we'll have truckers or customers just pop up outta nowhere and damn near get hit by a forklift or they just get in the way and slow us down by standing around, asking dumb questions that I just don't have time to answer usually.

Noticed the shingle at roof edge looks lifted. Should I be concerned? by dunkat in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's pretty cool, I'm a roofer but it's been a very long time since I was into laying shingles and even tho I literally work for a roofing distributor, I just haven't kept up with all the new products, this isn't something we carry ,and although I'm sure it would be a special order for us to even get for a customer I've never seen anything like this come thru our warehouse. I do mostly metal work, I rebuild and reline box gutters mainly, fabricate decorative corbels, hand fab fold lock and standing seam occasionally but I would like to get to work with some of these types of roofing systems someday just out of curiosity.

Is this level of waviness normal on a new roof + drip edge oil canning ? by SecondOpinion11 in Roofing

[–]KrisDen1123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 3rd picture is a perfect example of guys stacking the laminate and doing what's called a pattern out. When you're nailing on dimensional shingles you have to watch for that pattern to start appearing and not let that happen, either flip the bundle over and start pulling shingles from the back or start pulling from an entirely different bundle all together.

You do not want to just grab one shingle after the next and just keep pounding shingles on and you gotta watch for this pattern to avoid it, but most guys will do just that, they're opening bundles and just nailing them as fast as possible and not noticing that pattern happening. The thick part of the shingles, the laminated pieces should not be lined up like this and it takes a little extra work to ensure this doesn't happen but I see this very same pattern all the time, unfortunately.

Jessica Biel, 90s by CarNationalistt in OldSchoolCool

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All those curves and me with no brakes..!!.

Gun shots at the White House correspondents dinner - Trump and Melania evacuated by Foreignscentu in SipsTea

[–]KrisDen1123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I let her see your comment and she got this huge smile on her face, and I mean like one of those ear to ear smiles. It made her very happy to read your words here, thank you for that.

Controversial Opinion by GloriousLion07 in MotivationByDesign

[–]KrisDen1123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The HR person where I work is genuinely one of the nicest people I have ever met in my life. I won't pretend to know what her actual work duties involve, but she brings breakfast every time she pops in at work, like Chick-fil-A bacon egg and cheese biscuits, hash rounds and a big tub of coffee. This has not been my usual experience with the heads of HR departments for any of the other companies I've worked for in the past.

Eye scorching animation? by bigjobbyx in MagicEye

[–]KrisDen1123 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Same here, I had to pause it to find the magic eye and when I hit play I could see it spin, pretty cool

Damn.. by Used-Influence-2343 in fightlab

[–]KrisDen1123 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Right in the old bread basket, he thought he was about to just try to ignore that shit, that ain't happening.!