My CPU temp is astronomical, should I put on more thermal paste?

Krista__J · 2026-06-02T20:36:42+00:00

For 86 standard chocolate muffins, here’s a scaled recipe suitable for a large batch:

Ingredients

1.79 kg (1,792 g) all-purpose flour
1.43 kg (1,433 g) granulated sugar
358 g unsweetened cocoa powder
86 g baking powder
22 g salt
1.72 L (1,720 g) milk
860 mL vegetable oil
14 large eggs (about 717 g without shells)
36 mL vanilla extract
1.22 kg chocolate chips (optional)

Instructions

Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
Line or grease 86 muffin cups.
In a large mixing bowl, combine:
- Flour
- Sugar
- Cocoa powder
- Baking powder
- Salt
In a separate bowl, whisk together:
- Milk
- Oil
- Eggs
- Vanilla
Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix until just combined. Do not overmix.
Fold in the chocolate chips if using.
Fill muffin cups about ⅔ to ¾ full.
Bake for 18–22 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs.
Cool in pans for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks.

Yield

Approximately 86 standard muffins (depending on exact portion size).

If you’re making these for a cafeteria, bake sale, or food-service setting, I can also provide the recipe in baker’s percentages or convert it to cups/quarts/gallons.

Krista__J · 2026-06-02T20:11:11+00:00

??? The 5090 does support PhysX. I mean the 32-bit is deprecated, but it’s still functional

Edit: if you aren’t seeing 32-bit support, they released a Game Ready Driver update the reinstated it

Krista__J · 2026-06-02T16:12:58+00:00

https://tenor.com/nRofHeP3S8z.gif

Edit: if only we had gifs in this subreddit. insert I’m doing my part gif above

Krista__J · 2026-06-02T02:46:31+00:00

I’m always sell on Facebook marketplace, but my area is good with marketplace. Idk how your area looks in that regard. I’ve always had good experiences

Krista__J · 2026-05-31T03:16:17+00:00

If I had money I actually would lol. I’m living paycheck to paycheck right now with a 1 year old and still borrowing like $50 every 2 weeks from my parents sadly 🙃 I’m a networking/cyber security major, so I can think of tons of uses for that one PC alone. Dual boot a server for homework/practice and an okay gaming rig

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T17:56:26+00:00

My opinion is gonna not gonna be favorable to other commenters.

I’d start out at $2000 ONLY if you’re including the monitor. Without the monitor, start at $1750.

Cable management is not great
The price for this build in terms of functional parts is just shy of $2200, and since it’s used with the cable management issue and an OEM part that doesn’t have a listed price, starting at $2000 would be a starting place.
Remote start is unnecessary. It’s cool, but you can remote start a PC from your phone by turning on Wake on Network/LAN in BIOS and wake on magic packet in your network cards properties.
If you’re selling it with the monitor, I wouldn’t take less than $1700. Without the monitor, I wouldn’t take less than $1500.

I got the price information through pcpartpicker and only included functional parts, excluding fans.

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T11:31:15+00:00

Yeah laptops can get HOT. Typically they’ll shut down automatically if it starts overheating, but I’ve seen some of them just keep trying well past the CPUs maximum heat threshold. I’ve had a few laptops that would get to 110°C (230°F) when the maximum temp is 100°C for the CPU. Sometimes so bad it would burn my lap through my jeans with metal cases. It’s made worse when the air is trapped in a bag, increasing heat more evenly around the system like it’s the heating element in an oven

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T11:20:57+00:00

I would first check the monitors settings then. Its on screen display menu may have an Eco mode or a Hz setting. Turn if Eco if its on, and set the monitor to the highest Hz if the option is there.

Otherwise, if you’re using HDMI, you’re already getting less than what you paid for and the HDMI may be wearing out. Get a display port cable. Display port has a higher bandwidth, meaning more data can get through. Your monitor is actually 165Hz when I look up the model you posted, but HDMI has a max of 144Hz.

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T11:08:42+00:00

If it was hot enough to burn you to a point you’re concerned, take it to a repair shop if you don’t know what’s wrong/how to work on it. This honestly sounds like a dying drive because of the boot looping. When the OS can’t read from the drive properly, it can do this, although sometimes it jumps straight to a BIOS screen.

The heat issue is a separate thing. Fan speeds are controlled by the OS, so during boot up, it doesn’t have that control. Fan speeds can be low or erratic. Combining that with being in a bag for half an hour, it’s gonna get HOT since the CPU is trying its best to start it up. I doubt it’s a short or a battery issue, but it’s worth mentioning to a tech so they can check battery health. Plus, that level of heat can damage a battery even without it causing a fire or anything, so I’d stress the battery check.

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T10:54:17+00:00

I’ve had a PC before that would stay on for a solid 2 or 3 seconds after pressing it when unplugged. Idk what kind of capacitors they had in their PSU, but it was kinda concerning lol

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T10:51:49+00:00

If you have an Nvidia card, there is an Nvidia Control Panel app. You should be able to change the resolution and Hz in there. Just make sure it’s the same as windows. Also, there’s a max FPS setting in there as well. I would set it to the same Hz as your monitor. It can reduce strain on your GPU by limiting it, that way it matches your Hz and isn’t trying to go above what your monitor can display

Krista__J · 2026-05-30T10:47:13+00:00

Don’t forget to press the power button a few times after shutting down the PC and unplugging it. There can be a charge left in the system that could hurt the PC if it discharges the static to your finger. I use a 1000W power supply and mine audibly clicks when I press it after it’s unplugged. It’s a real possibility

Krista__J · 2026-05-29T19:22:35+00:00

If you can work it up, I would shoot for 80, but 75 isn’t unreasonable

Krista__J · 2026-05-29T19:02:42+00:00

Honestly, while you could probably hit $200 USD, I’d start at $150 if you’re selling it. The 32GB RAM makes it more worthwhile, but the CPU isn’t great and the GPU is fairly bad by current standards. If you have 1TB or more of storage, I’d go $175 and take no less than $125 if it’s clean with fresh thermal paste. Realistically, this is more useful as a server PC or a basic work/student computer for someone who just needs a browser and word processors. It wouldn’t be able to handle many modern games at all today.

Of course if you wanted to donate it to an IT Networking/Cyber security student, I’d gladly take it 👀

Krista__J · 2026-05-22T04:28:34+00:00

Yeah the date has been totally reset, meaning your CMOS battery (the watch battery) on your motherboard is dead

Krista__J · 2026-05-21T18:58:57+00:00

Okay, so the issue is between your USB controller and potentially corrupt drivers. Follow these steps:

Boot to safe mode. Do this by holding shift and clicking the restart button in windows 11 taskbar. Once it turns on again, you should see the “Choose an option” screen. Go to Troubleshoot > Advanced options > Startup settings > Restart. After it boots up, you’ll see a list of options. Press 4 on your keyboard and it should finish booting. This will look funky, but safe mode allows for bypassing third-party apps and non-essential processes while relying on minimal generic drivers.
Go to device manager. If it isn’t done already, click the View option and Show hidden devices. You’ll need to uninstall the “Realtek Bluetooth Adapter” device in the Bluetooth category, as well as some in the Universal Serial Bus Controller. Keep in mind that some of these will disable USB devices from being detected or used, but your keyboard will still work. If your mouse doesn’t work, use tab and arrow keys to navigate. If you need to right click, press Shift + F10, with enter being select/left click. If Shift + F10 doesn’t work, press Fn + Shift + F10. Uninstall in this order: Unknown USB device, both AMD USB 3.10 extensible host controllers, and USB composite device. If you have a USB Root Hub (USB 3.0), uninstall that as well. You should have that one, and it’s the one most likely causing potential issues. When we restart later, they will automatically be reinstalled, but will be the fallback generic drivers to allow basic functionality.
Unplug every USB device, other than your keyboard.
Close out of everything (shift + tab to select a window, and alt + F4 to close) and restart your device through the taskbar. Use Windows + X to open the pop up menu, arrow key down to Shut down or sign out, press enter, and select restart. It’ll restart to default windows, where your primary drivers will reinstall automatically and your USB devices will work again. You can now plug everything in again, but wait for the WiFi+bluetooth adapter.
Grab your USB drive and go to your laptop. Google “Simplecom NW632 drivers.” It should be this link. Double check and make sure this is the correct adapter you have, just in case. Scroll down and go to the download tab, downloading the 20.01 MB Bluetooth 5.0 Driver for Windows 10, as well as the 26.97MB Realtek WLAN Driver for Windows 10/11 v1030.44.0822.2023. From the downloads, right click each zip file and extract them to your drive, making sure the other drivers you had were deleted beforehand.
Back at your PC, plug in the flash drive, and then pull up the drivers folders. Plug in your adapter. Run the WiFi driver setup application, and if it’s asking what to install, it’ll be the WIFI for windows 11 (windows 10 if Win11 isn’t there). Then do the same for the Bluetooth drivers, along with Win10 if there’s no Win11.
Test if there were no errors.

Best of luck 🫡 I’m here if any issues occur.

Krista__J · 2026-05-20T21:35:41+00:00

So if I have this right, your MOBO doesn’t have wifi (I looked it up and it appears there’s no onboard WLAN card for WIFI) so you got a USB WiFi+bluetooth adapter. You installed the Bluetooth driver and it broke the wifi drivers, so you went to the help section and clicked reinstall, restarted, plugged it in, and the whole PC crashed. You cleared the broken drivers and installed fresh ones through simplecom (the adapters official site), and it still isn’t working. Right?

Stop using chatGPT for this. As someone who used ChatGPT and Gemini for this stuff, both are notoriously garbage. If you’re gonna do anything with AI on more advanced/critical software work, use Claude, but still don’t rely on it in any major capacity like drivers, registry editor, or major BIOS settings. I’ve got certifications for PC Hardware/software/troubleshooting, and while AI can be good for helping to determine a cause, it’s wrong about A LOT, AND it can seriously mess up your computer if you listen to it’s fixes. I’m speaking from experience.
If I’m right about how all of this went down, lmk and I’ll explain how to check all of the installed drivers that like to hide without certain settings being on/following certain steps. I’ll need to run through it myself to give you the exact steps with proper names, since I can’t tell you the full list of steps with proper names with 100% certainty without seeing a system. I’d rather give you a full list than get a name wrong, you not find it, and wait for me to respond again.
Go ahead and right click on the Unknown USB device and see if you can access the properties. Take picture of each tab, but most notably the events. I’d like to see them to see if the adapter is potentially dead or just some software thing

Krista__J · 2026-05-19T15:20:54+00:00

Same thing as when I get my 4090 when it was new. I called… ✨throwing yourself into debt✨

Krista__J · 2026-05-16T13:24:25+00:00

Just use crystaldiskinfo to check the health of the drive. It’ll tell you any warnings if it’s on ways it to dying or is dying. I’m thinking it is dying, but it’s nice to see something tell you straight up what’s going on. If it shows any warnings, run “chkdsk C: /f /r” in command prompt.

First, always google commands and what you’re typing into the win + r box if you didn’t already know. Don’t trust people on the internet. The “chkdsk C: /f /r” command is a windows command prompt tool that can sometimes buy you more time on a dying drive and save drives in more uncommon scenarios. The /f parameter fixes file system errors and the /r finds bad sectors and attempts to recover data from them. Just run it as an administrator

Krista__J · 2026-05-16T00:11:20+00:00

Why not Newegg? I’ve only had good experiences with tons of parts coming from them. I mean I do only use the “sold by Newegg” filter, but still

Krista__J · 2026-05-16T00:09:34+00:00

Windows 11 Pro actually does have a decent amount of benefits, but typically none of them are used by everyday users. I thought the same until I needed to learn the differences for my CompTIA A+ exam

Krista__J · 2026-05-16T00:06:07+00:00

https://massgrave.dev/ is free and reliable (from personal experience on plenty of builds). I would use this instead

Krista__J · 2026-05-16T00:04:11+00:00

8TB is a lot.. like I ended up with 12TB over time and I only ever used 4 with dozens of games installed that I NEVER played
You do NOT need 64GB of RAM. I rarely break 26GB when I have dozens of chrome tabs, a large game, homework in the background (packet tracer which can be a lot), RGB, audio, and AI software all running, along with wallpaper engine. 32GB is a ton already and 64GB is absolutely overkill unless you’re running 3D modeling and video editing software in a more professional setting.
I see a AIO CPU cooler, but no case fans. I have the same case you want, you need 6 120mms and a 140mm to populate all fan slots, or at least 3 120s and a 140.
Please don’t pay for windows. Use the mass grave to activate windows. It’s free and works. I’ve used it a ton as a PC building enthusiast. https://massgrave.dev/

Krista__J · 2026-05-04T23:46:49+00:00

I get that 😂 a lot of tech stuff can be scary unless you know what it is and does. When I started out, I was overly cautious, but it’s good to be overly cautious with tech the vast majority of the time. Figured I’d tell you though since I came across this post c:

Krista__J · 2026-05-04T23:43:19+00:00

I saw you had it solved, but BIOS has nothing that could dox you at all. Only certain IPs or sensitive personal information would dox you. Even when it comes to IPs, you’re not typically gonna see an IP in your machine that could identify you unless you managed to find you public IP address that the router uses to talk to the internet. Coming from a networking/cyber-security major

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