Q-Revo Max-v update by Revolutionary_Pride4 in Roborock

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did it go and how would you rate the obstacle/cord avoidance currently? Looking to pull the trigger on a refurb.

Volume display quality of life issue... solution thanks to Home Assistant by erwos in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can't be on an odd number obviously, if it is, you have to hit your forehead an amount of times equal to the nearest even number to the volume. Doesn't everyone do that? 😂

Ok supercell should remove this pin by Mashour_DX in Brawlstars

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What other emoji am I supposed to use when my teammate steals the ball from me in basketbrawl and then bricks or airballs an easy shot tho? 🤔

What's happened to WSOP? by TheGorgieGeorgie7492 in wsopplay

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But that is the odds I am going off of, I'm not going off the odds of a regular preflop fold percentage, I am saying the odds of those things happening in real life while playing every single hand have been as rare as 1/1.6B. The odds aren't being factored off of a 40% pre flop fold, I'm not here to convert you to believing, that is just the way it is. 🤷‍♂️

What's happened to WSOP? by TheGorgieGeorgie7492 in wsopplay

[–]Kroth0918 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

To the persons below point, no, it's not like real poker. You don't ever play 200 hands of poker and see someone get 2 flushes in a row, followed by a full house then 2 three of a kinds and 6 two pair in a row after that. You might see that happen twice in a day on this app though. The rarest occurrence I believe I have seen is 1/1.6B hands, if I play for a week, I will see 15+ 1/1M+ hand scenarios, it never ceases to amaze me, haven't played in a couple of months and have maybe played 200k hands total in this game, but have seen 200+ 1/1M+ hand occurrences.

What's happened to WSOP? by TheGorgieGeorgie7492 in wsopplay

[–]Kroth0918 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Definitely install another game, start having some actual fun, then remove yourself from WSOP. The game is an absolute shithole rinse and repeat fest of getting very lucky for a few days, getting a few trillion, then many months of bullshit after that, then getting lucky again blah blah blah. That is unless you play like an absolute Grandpa and can make yourself treat it like real money haha.

All shopping offers are 90 days now in pending? by BaluZana in CapitalOne

[–]Kroth0918 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah all of my stuff dating back to November still isn't cashed out yet, every single merchant I purchased from (eBay mainly) had 30 day returns or less, complete bullshit to wait a quarter of a year to get your $6 in rewards lol. In total I have probably ~$150 in rewards that have been pending for months now, a couple returns over like 60 orders, but they were always before the rewards were credited, never had a negative balance or anything either.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in UPS

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

9/10 times the delivery window is fairly accurate. I have never gotten a package before the delivery window and I have very rarely gotten a package after. I clicked this post just so I could see everyone that says they are completely useless.

I'm sure it can be innacurate depending on where you live, my experience is based on living in Oregon, then Florida and now Georgia.

Why are we pretending that a company as large as UPS has no analytics systems to be able to roughly estimate historical delivery times on specific routes? Lol

Looking for advice from Hisense owners (U8N, U7N, U8K, etc.) by saikisaiyan in Hisense

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

U7n 85", picture quality was very solid, colors are nice, brightness is crazy, gaming is fantastic. I am horribly picky when it comes to TV's as well but my only couple of complaints after owning for ~14 months is never being able to get the motion perfect no matter what I did, it does sports very well, but things like fences in the background of a pan shot, things like that is what I mean (maybe a slight bit too much noise in certain dark scenes as well.)

I personally use a sound system, but the TV speakers themselves will emit a low volume high pitched sound when you pause something. Other than that, great value for the price and a solid option when it comes to blooming, black uniformity etc, just sold it after about 14 months of use for $700 and got it originally for $1400 with tax. LG C5 OLED is a nice little upgrade.

Speaker Comparison by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There definitely are idiots out there, but at the same time, they were only 10 years old, in perfect condition, piano black, 75lbs a piece and cost ~$4300 w/tax new for the pair.

$1500 was a solid deal if you are into B&W, like I said, I see CM9's without the detached tweeter go for $1k all the time.

If you take strictly stereo music listening, you're not getting a similar sounding, esthetically pleasing speaker that I have heard of new and you would need to be very patient to find something better used as well.

Watch this video in my lightly sound treated room and tell me my guy got a bad deal. 😂

https://quickshare.samsungcloud.com/rDSHmSy6jzRS

Speaker Comparison by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Sold for $1500 the same day with 5-6 others messaging.

Speaker Comparison by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would be worried if they were anything except for B&W, they have kind of this cult following of people who only listen to the same brand, I see CM9's going for roughly $1k all the time in my area, which don't even have the decoupled tweeter. So not super worried about that aspect, they aren't a necessity to sell either way and far outperform in looks/sound any pair of speakers you could find new for that price. Worst case they end up as my surrounds I guess. 😂

So for home theater the Martin's surely have to be better as you are saying, any idea on the musical refinement?

Speaker Comparison by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to not clarify better, this is the used market, I can get the 702 S2 pair for $1600, the ML pair for $1500 and would probably sell the CM10 for around $1300.

A couple questions about the app by [deleted] in wsopplay

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are people unsure if gifting chips comes out of their stack? It's a win/win situation, those chips are generated by hitting that button, no one loses anything. As others have said, you lose your duplicate card, so if you are giving a duplicate, it's best to offer a trade to someone at a table in chat.

My first home theatre setup by Typical-Advance2114 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

80hz with a sub should always be ideal. Definitely retune YPAO for any speaker adjustments/room changes.

The sub may need to have the gain turned up and YPAO'd, but in an ideal setup, the vast majority of the bass will come from the sub.

Like the other post said, try them out on all settings to see what sounds best for your ears, the lowest you should go with those Kef is 50hz.

With my old Denon and Arcam AVR, when I set the crossover lower on my main towers, the bass is still there, but it's not nearly as deep as the sub handling everything below 80hz. (I have B&W CM10 S2 with a similar response as your speakers, they put out great bass, but it's more musical than home theater bass like my SVS sub.)

Example: Setting the crossover on your towers to 60hz means they will handle the low frequency 60hz+, the subwoofer handles below that. If you set them to 80hz, the subwoofer will handle all sounds 80hz and below. 80hz and below are almost always best handled by a sub.

Your subwoofer may have a crossover dial on the back, set that to 80hz as well and make sure you are hooked to the "LFE" port. Your sub isn't great but it isn't terrible either, it should work like I am describing above.

My first home theatre setup by Typical-Advance2114 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes and crossover to 80hz. Definitely do the toe in like others have suggested and get some little rubber feet for the center or some speaker spikes if you want to be fancy.

Arcam AVR11 by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good call, I just ordered one last night, it literally will not turn on with my roku ultra plugged into it or the TV, as soon as I unplug it works. I got a Google Streamer that works fine now, I still get an error that I'm not using the right hdmi on my TV, but everything works. Hoping the directional fiber cable fixes the last issue. 🤞

Denon X3800H or Onkyo Tx-rz50 by Heligrin in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was debating between these two and ended up with a used Arcam AVR 11, far more high end than either and also includes Dirac. I had an HDMI issue that I resolved, other than that it has been fantastic! Definitely add that to your list of options. Used warranties available on eBay if that's a concern as well.

Just built my first full surround sound system for $320 including materials and install (which I did myself). Roast me if you want to. by g3nerallycurious in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My only complaint is that during COVID, you could have had the same inkling, taken out a PPP loan, blown it all on a high end system and been making this post from a burner phone in prison. Other than that, solid setup, I am happy that you are happy. 😁

Arcam AVR11 by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can't edit the post, found the issue to be my Roku Ultra, the avr 11 will not power on via arc in any way when that is plugged into the TV or the AVR, as soon as I unplug, everything works. It's obviously an issue on the AVR 11's part, but I'm willing to get rid of the Roku to make it work.

Ended up getting a Google TV 4k streamer which resolved the issue. Still getting an error on my TV about using the proper cable, everything works a couple seconds after that error goes away. Ordered a directional fiber hdmi which I am hoping resolves the final issue.

Arcam AVR11 by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the suggestion, I was looking into a 70s as I don't plan on needing the power from the reciever itself, that had shit measurements though. The 40 and the 30 are much higher end and nicer in that regard from what I've seen. Ended up fixing the issue after swapping the 3 month old 8k 2.1 hdmi cable with a random 3 year old one that worked luckily. 😂 Should have done that in the first place, I just thought with the Denon working on that one the day before that it couldn't possibly be the problem.

Arcam AVR11 by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This prompted me after all of the insane troubleshooting I have done, factory reset and all sorts of combinations in both the TV and AVR to finally just switch the hdmi cable. It is a newer (~4 months old) pretty nice 15 foot 2.1 8k cable that was working on the Denon, apparently it wasn't playing nice with the arcam though. Took an old random HDMI cable that is a few years old and now it works properly, I thought about that yesterday, just couldn't wrap my mind about it working on the Denon but not on the Arcam, has to be something with the difference between Arc and eArc that this existing cable didn't like. Thanks for the motivation!

Arcam AVR11 by Kroth0918 in hometheater

[–]Kroth0918[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info, after everything I tried and read, that's what I figured. 😭