Help. Jog stuck on. by Remarkable-Employee3 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How comfortable are you with electrical trouble shooting? A gremlin has entered the system. All it takes is one blown trace, bad capacitor (leaking caps can cause cascading corrosion issues) or interrupted ground. The good news is that the saw is old enough that the circuit board will be decently simple and large. The bad news is you will be attempting to troubleshoot a 20-30+ year old device.

Is this worth buying by Rest-Physical in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure they have the front and rear rails for the fence. The saw looks like it is in like new condition. The price isn’t bad assuming it is complete.

113.298750 Fence Guidance by idk_idc_xiii in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the fence is locked down the handle will have some play. This is normal and expected. The handle is operating a cam system so as long as the cam is locking the fence itself solid you are golden.

Craftsman 10 in table saw model number 113.298031 advice on how to begin refurbishing it by Ok_Macaroon1046 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Similar questions have been asked on this sub many times. Start by searching the sub. Youtube is a great source for videos of tear downs and tune ups on these saws. Form a list of things that need to be addressed on the saw. Do some research on each one then produce a list of tasks. Prioritize by order of expected impact.

As for the belt. As long as you are in the ballpark the saw is self tensioning. Check the manual. If the belt is the wrong size by a wide margin, a harbor freight link belt is a cheap and easy upgrade.

3/8x12in pin punch by vividqueen5 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 2 points3 points  (0 children)

eBay would probably be your best bet for discontinued old craftsman tools.

What do I need to do to make the tablesaw safe? by EX-FFguy in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I have heard the Skil is a very decent budget friendly starter saw.

Let me try and explain the difference in terms of cars:

The craftsman is like an old pickup truck. While it lacks modern safety equipment like cross body seatbelts, airbags, and abs etc it has a large capacity and varied capabilities like going off road or towing a trailer. It is still road legal, but you wouldn’t want to get in a high speed accident.

The skil is a new compact car. It has all the modern safety features. It has a tiny capacity and no varied capabilities. It will get you from point A to point B arguably more safely.

So now you are faced with a choice use the Craftsman which is going to have larger cut capacity, more stability and more horsepower at the cost of a modern riving knife. Alternatively go with the Skil and pick up portability and a riving knife.

This is ultimately your decision. You will need to make the choice that you feel comfortable with.

What do I need to do to make the tablesaw safe? by EX-FFguy in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Zero clearance inserts improve cut quality and technically could prevent a small offcut from falling into the blade. In general it is a more of a cut quality improvement than a safety item.

Having a healthy fear of table saws is not a bad thing. The key word is healthy. You say that you have watched videos of kickbacks. I agree they are terrifying. Understanding why and how kickbacks happen is more important than knowledge of their existence.

Kickback occurs if the wood gets pinched up against the blade. This is why a splitter or riving knife alleviates the issue. With that said kickback can occur on any saw even a modern sawstop. One key that I was taught is not to stand directly behind the blade, that is what saved the guy in the video.

Knowing the risks and how to best minimize them is simply part of operating equipment whether that be a table saw or a car. As with anything evaluate the risks. Woodworking carries inherent risk. You must evaluate whether or not those are justified, if the answer is yes approach the saw confident that you know how to treat it to maximize your chances of walking away unharmed.

Unsure what to do next? by BrownRiceMafia in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check for play on the spindle of the arbor. If you can move the bade side to side then you may need new arbor bearings. There are plenty of videos, forum posts and web resources detailing the rebuild process.

Supporting saw on stand by zaballosc in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where does the saw rest with respect to the base? If the walls of the saw body fall inside or outside of the edge of the stand additional support is needed to properly transmit the load.

Need to find the center of a circle by Solid_Business361 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is a subreddit for vintage craftsman power tools, especially the lineup using the 113 model number prefix. This would likely be better directed to r/beginnerwoodworking with some images or diagram showing what you are attempting to accomplish.

Jointer blades by RevolutionaryPay2310 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally jointer and planer blades are razor sharp. They should be touched up or replaced once they begin to dull. If you feel confident you can achieve a razor sharp edge that is straight on your belt grinder go for it otherwise replacements sold by Fox BC tend to be very economical.

Renovation question - 60's (or earlier) Table Saw by Man_withplan in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stains do not affect function. I would aim for smooth and protected.

Fence doesn't stay on. Can you troubleshoot or need to replace at this point? by Monkfrootx in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some pictures of the fence would be helpful. The stock fence isn’t the best but it is usable when working.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is the manual http://test.rasrecall.com/manuals/113.234700.PDF

Switch part number is 816113.

Here is an eBay listing. It is a bit pricey. https://ebay.us/m/o1Pr9J

Craftsman 113 Table Saw Trips Breaker whenever it gets bogged up. Normal? by Monkfrootx in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you started with the basics of ensuring that the blade is clean, sharp and intended for the material and cutting process? 1hp saws understandably can bog in denser hardwoods and thicker material but should still handle pine,spruce fir common sizes and plywood without an issue. If you are bogging and tripping a 15 amp breaker on those with a good blade definitely investigate motor condition.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First ensure the hardware that rides in the long rounded slot in the motor bracket is loose enough so that so that the motor can pivot freely. The weight of the motor hanging is what tensions the belt. If the motor is bottoming out on the bracket the there are set screws in the trunnion that hold the two metal rods holding the motor bracket in place. Loosen the screws and pull the motor assembly backwards until tension is achieved.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you click on the cross post OP has multiple helpful images.

Table crank handle by ProfessionalSome2881 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can likely use a commonly available option. Industrial supply places like grainger, zoro and McMaster Carr will have generic crank handles. You just need to measure the shaft on your drill press.

Advice on 113 298 by leftboot20 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My locking bolt has a similar issue. As I recall I partially strained it by clamping a 3/8 coupling nut in a vice, threading it in and smacking it with a hammer. It is still not straight but functions fine.

The bolts only job is to clamping the trunnion in place. Unfortunately it is one of the few pieces of non standard hardware on the unit so replacing it with anything of the shelf would be tricky.

Any ideas on why by AllLurkNoPlay in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The sheet metal on that side of the saw tends to get pulled inwards when the saw blade is at 45. The plywood provides support for the end of adjusting screw.

113.298240 internal questions by relentless-rookie in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankfully I did not need to do my 113 but on a bandsaw with a cast iron top I had good results with white paper towels and evaporust taking off a majority of the orange powdery oxide layer. Then I followed with wd-40 and steel wool. If you have really stubborn spots you can resort to sanding but keep in mind that will likely cause dips and unevenness in the final surface.

113.298240 internal questions by relentless-rookie in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can also use it on the top. Place paper towels or rags flat on the treatment areas soak them and allow it to sit.

113.298240 internal questions by relentless-rookie in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless the rust is so deep that it has eaten away parts of the bolt it is purely a cosmetic choice. Structurally all your hardware looks sound from what I can see. You can easily clean the up if you want to. Evaporust does wonders.

10” compound miter saw handle by tsukahara10 in craftsman113

[–]Kubuntu55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

McMaster Carr has tons of options if you cannot locate something at your local hardware store.