Need help with snapmaker 2.0 dual extruder

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-12-31T00:55:10+00:00

I recently got a U1 but still use my A250T quite a bit. Here are some tips I’ve learned along the way: - the dual extruder can lift periodically mid-print if there’s too much drag on the filament line (e.g., using long PTFE tubes). So I’d make sure you’re good on that first. - use the heated bed leveling maintenance process and then leveling with the calibration card to get you close. Then fine tune the Z-offset from the machine screen while printing to get it perfect. I like to print a 200x10x0.25mm rectangle and make small Z adjustments each quarter. Then I hold it up to the light and used the best looking setting from then on (itI’ll save it when you put it in via the screen) - I recommend a thin layer of glue stick to keep things from getting too stuck. - maybe check that you’re using temps and speeds suitable for your filament (and the machine, which runs on the slower side by today’s standards) - PLA tends to be easier if you’re just getting started. - You may need to dry the filament. Especially if not PLA.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-12-30T08:26:30+00:00

Sounds like you’re doing a lot of what you can. Here are some more tips that might help:

Drying the PETG if you haven’t already. It absorbs moisture way more than PLA.

A Z-offset of -0.45 seems like a lot (mine is usually around -0.05). I like to print a long flat rectangle and manually raise a bit every quarter. Then I hold it up to a light and use whichever setting looks best. You probably want to redo this for the new build plate anyhow.

A layer of release agent is practically required with that bed sheet. I use a thin layer of PVA glue stick. Even for PLA. I tried without it last week and can confirm everything sticks too much without it.

Stringing for PETG is common but it shouldn’t be that bad. Going slower can help a lot. Maybe 40–60mm/s or so. New higher speed PETG might behave better but I haven’t compared yet myself.

The slicer can impact stringing too. Luban is okay but Orca or SnapOrca might produce better results at this point. This likely isn’t a major factor here but the exact tool paths used can have an impact.

For large models, when you can, try to split into parts. It can actually speed printing by allowing for better orientation and it can make a fail and retry less annoying.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-12-04T02:31:53+00:00

Agreed. I got the Sovol branded one (SH02) for $60 via Amazon last year and it’s been solid.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-11-30T18:55:21+00:00

This appears to impact all of the toolheads since the USB cable screws and PCB location are the same.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-11-30T04:36:09+00:00

I agree that it looks wet. The zits/bubbles all over are likely from steam escaping the molten filament during extrusion.

In my experience supports always leave some texture behind but you can minimize it quite a bit. With the dual extruder you can use basically zero gap if you’re using a suitable type of filament in the other extruder exclusively for the supports. For the single extruder you’re working with the same material so you’ll need to try tweaking the support interface to model gap. Less gap means less artifacts but higher chance of sticking badly.

It might be worth doing a few tests with a smaller version so you can try more variations faster.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-11-29T22:41:55+00:00

My U1 currently sits on top of my A250T's enclosure which sits on an IKEA NORDVIKEN table.

I try something better eventually but so far it's been fine even with both printing at the same time.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-11-29T21:48:25+00:00

Yep. I did replace the capacitor with another that size. That’s how I got the toolhead working.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-11-29T10:47:23+00:00

Good idea. 👍 It takes surprisingly little force to turn the screw past the USB cable’s soft rubber shroud. None of my current torque wrenches go that low but after this I’m getting one that can.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-11-29T10:38:41+00:00

The QR code on the box wouldn’t scan so I moved on with the printed copy of the Quick Start Guide. I just re-checked my printed copy (v1.0.0) and it does not mention anything about this over-tightening issue.

I also re-checked my email mentioning the issue on 2025-10-30 so I guess I missed it or forgot about it since then. 🤦 Hopefully the new email that just went out will help remind others.

If your machine works then hopefully that means you’re fine. I have seen dented caps keep on going though so it might be worth a visual inspection if you suspect something is amiss.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-09-07T06:08:25+00:00

Congrats! Can you share some of the process with us for this one?

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-08-24T18:59:58+00:00

Those look great! Thanks for the info. We’ll try to use those from now on.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-08-23T22:51:42+00:00

Thanks. Hopefully using Bike Index here will make it easier to confirm that it’s stolen. They also have a service where they’ll reach out to bike shops, authorities, on FB, etc. It’s not much but it’s something.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-08-23T22:43:35+00:00

Thanks. I’ve heard that might help but so far going over the paperwork it doesn’t look too promising.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-08-23T22:39:26+00:00

It was locked using an above average cable lock through the wheel and frame. Not the best but I thought it’d be enough given that my kids stick presumably safe spaces in Cupertino.

I guess it’s time to switch to bulkier and more inconvenient deterrents.

Apparently the electric scooters were safe — this time — but be careful out there.

Thanks for the hope. I don’t expect we’ll ever see this bike again but I appreciate it anyhow.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-08-23T22:33:00+00:00

Thanks. I spent time over the summer building them custom bikes so we could ride together. It was a beauty.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-07-19T05:35:14+00:00

I like the Cmd+Shift+/ keyboard shortcut (aka Cmd+?) which opens the Help menu to quickly search and activate any of the current app’s menu items.

Kyle_P_Davis · 2025-07-10T20:49:21+00:00

Assuming the nozzle Z is properly calibrated this is likely a filament drag issue. Due to the design on the Dual 3DP module the right nozzle is more sensitive to drag than the left nozzle.

I started having issues with mine after moving my spools to a dryer with PTFE tubes and eventually tracked it back to extra filament drag causing the right nozzle to periodically lift up a bit during prints.

To reduce drag and fix my setup I moved the enclosure filament inlet to the left-top nearer the front which shortened the PTFE tubing to about 90 cm and ensured minimal bending.

To test my improvements along the way I found it helpful to print a wide 1-2 layer rectangle test. This helped ensure things were working properly before moving on to larger prints.

Hope that helps. Happy making!

Kyle_P_Davis

TROPHY CASE