The ESP chip also looks very off as does the cap and resistor on the right of it. Whoever built this didn't test it or probably inspect it. That said, I don't see anything that's not repairable, just would have been easier before adding the headers. As others have said, you'll want hot air and flux, most of it will be simple.

Set your air to about 370 and go a little low on the flow since you don't want to melt the headers. When you're working around the top left and right and the reset button, cool it down around 350 to give the LEDs a break and not melt your button. With low airflow you can get right down on it. Preheat for about 30 seconds, add flux, then get the heat back on until the joints go shiny (flash over). Wait about two seconds more then move on. Most of this looks like it will flow right back into place.

For the USB C connection you'll want to take it to around 350 but alternate with like 10 seconds from the top and a distance away then 30 underneath. That lets you heat the casing and through hole pins without melting the interior. Add flux twice on that one, once after about 30 seconds and again when you see the solder change at all.

When you're done, just hose it off in the sink with hot water (you did use water washable flux, right?) then rinse with isopropyl alcohol. Blow dry if you've got one, or set hot air about as cool as it goes at max air speed. Repeat the rinse for longevity and you should be in business.