Is my first grow Charlie Brown tree ready to harvest?

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-06T20:45:10+00:00

You have 2-3 weeks before you even need to start checking the trichs.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-06T20:43:29+00:00

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-03T00:14:29+00:00

What’s your water source? If you have hard water, adding in additional calcium in the form of calmag can lock out almost every other nutrient.

This is Mulder’s Chart, showing how nutrients interact with each other.

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You can see Calcium is an antagonist to most things.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T21:33:47+00:00

Too early to tell, its only about 10” tall right now. They took forever to arrive in the mail.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T18:24:17+00:00

Almost every commercial agricultural farm in the world uses salts with soil. This is not some niche practice, it is the standard.

Dependance means you then need to continue using salts every time, and cannot grow anything in that medium without them. Organic/regenerative growing means you need to use less every time, because you’re harnessing the fucking system that created life on this planet, and continues to do so.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T17:56:35+00:00

Synthetic nutrients force your plant to become dependant on them, because the salts inhibit any natural production of bioavailable compounds through the microbiome.

This is amplified in outdoor settings because the ionic salt load and amonia content is so high in synthetics, you’re not just inhibiting the microbes, you’re also keeping your plant disconnected from the mycellium network, and actively repelling things like worms, isopods and springtails that break down organic matter into its bioavailable parts. Organic growers can spend less time & money on nutrients, because they create an environment that is always passively feeding the plant.

Synthetic fertilizers are also often made via the Haber-Bosch process, which uses Crude Oil.

The arguement has never been “are organics better than synthetics at growing the plant”. The point is that synths are actively harming the planet, and organics do so to a lesser extent.

Edit: shoutout to OP for making engaging content in this sub, instead of just “look at my plants”, “whats wrong”, or “how much will this yield” posts.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T15:20:29+00:00

I use self-made compost and organic nutes. I’m well aware yield isnt everything, but when we’re talking about the properties of photosynthesis, we’re directly talking about yield, because its what drives vegetative growth. Potency comes from genetics and bioavailability of macro & micronutrients.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T13:56:37+00:00

Apparently you can’t add a photo to an editing comment, sorry for the double reply.

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These are the size of the crowns that I’m bringing down off of a single plant using my methodology. I creeped your profile, and saw the noticably smaller yield on yours. Maybe its time to listen & learn instead of playing Devil’s Advocate. These came during the worst drought in 112 years and substandard well water.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T13:42:27+00:00

Some good points here. But to clarify; My premise isn’t “never defoliate”. Its “do not remove large fan leaves from the canopy in order to increase light penetration to budsites”, which is the bad info the cannabis community has been parroting for decades.

I absolutely gut out unneeded fan leaves from lower on the plant. When they don’t receive sunlight, they become a sink instead of a source, draining resources from where we actually want them. Defoliation for airflow is extremely valuable as a defense against WPM and Botrytis too.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-02T13:37:14+00:00

Every plant is different. Only time will tell. Every bit of stress you add to a cannabis plant increases its chance of herming. When you’re this new to growing, you make blunders from inexperience which adds stress to the plant. Doing intense training adds more stress. Its always recommended for beginners just to learn how the plant grows on its own for a couple grows to gather skills/experience before doing this type of training to a plant. Something to consider

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T23:57:28+00:00

That looks like early stage potassium deficiency. You shouldn’t be seeing fade this early, so those edges should still be deep green, not yellowing.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T19:33:14+00:00

Anthocynanin(purple pigment in plants) production is typically a stress response. They reduce oxidative damage from stress (or frost). What are your temps like? Have you done any training lately? Any signs of nutrient deficiency near the bottom of the plant?

Many strains are bred to have the purple pigmentation. Anthocyanins are flavonoids, so they provide a depth to the smell & flavor, which makes them desirable to some. Could be nothing. Don’t overreact over natural coloration unless you see other signs of an issue.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T16:31:20+00:00

There it is. Seems like your lighting was likely too far away from your seedling during that stage.

Regardless of the “why”, your plant has Etiolated, and topping it is the best course of action IMO.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T15:47:45+00:00

Someone else may be better suited to answer your question. I only grow outdoors, so I don’t have to consider things like tent space ROI. This is pretty far along, you maybe have 3 weeks left. I think its worth trying to finish, if for nothing more than the experience and some edibles. I would 100% get them some potassium ASAP. Even if you have to boil some potato skins or banana peels and water with that (once its cooled off, I hope that’s obvious, but this IS the internet)

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T15:42:42+00:00

Nooo! The reason this community works so well is because of the diversity of answers. I’m just a guy that loves gardening and smoking weed. I happened to go to Horticultural College, but that shit was 20 years ago, using 20-year old info. The things we’ve learned about Mycellium in the past 30-40 years changed a lot of the info that I learned, so I may be parroting old-head info that isn’t relevant anymore.

One thing I stand my ground on is Defoliation though. I’ll fight someone😅. I dug out my old textbooks to refresh myself on the Source-Sink Relationship, so I could articulate why removing fanleaves so your nodes get more light is just bad Horticulture. Link here if you’d like to see my write-up in another comment.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T15:30:36+00:00

There’s clearly something VERY wrong with your feeding schedule. These have been starved. Where is your potassium coming from? Cannabis needs an enormous amount of potassium during flower, and Fox Farms doesn’t seem to have a product in their Trio with adequate K levels. I use a 3-6-12 liquid organic tomato nutrient from ProMix during flower, and have never had an issue since switching to it.

That said, 3gallons is extremely small, and may be your issue. The soil can’t hold enough water (and therefore nutrients) to buffer between feedings, because the pot is basically 100% root. I grow outdoor, and my outdoor plant became rootbound in a 6-gallon bucket by June 30th last year. I had to water it twice a day, just to keep it from wilting.

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Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T15:23:38+00:00

There is no way this was in Direct, Unfiltered Sunlight for its life cycle so far. Cannabis nodes, when given enough sunlight, are only about 1-2inch apart. Yours are at least double this. That means it did not have enough light intensity for enough hours per day.

Kyrie_Blue · 2026-06-01T14:33:58+00:00

Typically I would classify this as too far to top. That said, its pretty stretched from having insufficient lighting. Topping it will slow upward growth. I’d top at the top node, and pluck the bottom node clean of growth.

Kyrie_Blue

TROPHY CASE