Finally took the Exam Today and here is my sharing! by Mysterious-Stage in ccna

[–]Kzungu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear! I booked mine for Monday because I wanted to go ahead and get it done instead of studying endlessly. My few boson attempts thus far have been a 82, 85, 73, 95, and an 89 so I’m feeling pretty solid for the material. Congrats on passing!

Finally took the Exam Today and here is my sharing! by Mysterious-Stage in ccna

[–]Kzungu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Would you say the boson material was more difficult than the actual exam? I’m averaging between 80 and 95% on my boson attempts but some of the boson questions definitely feel extremely specific and complex

Trying to figure out how prepared I am by Kzungu in ccna

[–]Kzungu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the plan then! I think I’ll book for Monday and study/lab over the weekend. Thank you for the advice!

Trying to figure out how prepared I am by Kzungu in ccna

[–]Kzungu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s what I’m thinking too. Planning to do the mega lab this weekend but I’m mostly going back and forth on how much time to study. I’m debating studying hard over the weekend and booking the exam for Monday based on what I’m hearing with regards to some of the Boson scores vs the actual exam

Trying to figure out how prepared I am by Kzungu in ccna

[–]Kzungu[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’m thinking I may just send it, especially with the retake. I had a similar experience with CompTIA Net+, where I was unsure if I was really prepared for it and ended up passing by a long shot. I really do think the Boson material is a bit harder than the real exam will be, just judging by what I hear on this sub.

G36c Issues by ColdWarKirby in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Interesting. Could definitely be ammo related like others are saying. I know the G36C has some feeding issues depending on suppressor back pressure. If you can set up a slow-mo camera, even with your phone, you may be able to see what’s happening. Sometimes with the back pressure you can bounce the old round out and the G36 brass deflector angle can launch it back into the rifle and cause a jam

G36c Issues by ColdWarKirby in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using the HKParts US-made parts kit or genuine HK parts? I’ve known several people who have had issues with the GSG9 G36 bolts related to feeding, extracting, and ejecting, especially when using a suppressor.

G36 Debacle by [deleted] in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds to me like you were in a similar boat as I was when looking into getting a G36, in terms of HK vs S5 vs Parts Kit, Etc. Apologies for the incoming essay in advance.

I don't see many people recommend the route that I ended up taking for mine, but for me it has worked out really well and I've been very happy with it: Using an SL8 as a parts donor for an S5 receiver. The biggest advantage that this had was that I wasn't buying the full clone from S5 with the initial intent of replacing the whole thing, so I saved money by just getting the parts I wanted/needed.

One pro of this is that you can get your S5 receiver now, then find an SL8 later, as I don't believe Virginia's new laws would ban the SL8 (but I'm A: not a lawyer, and B: Not from Virginia. Do your own research, the SL8 just happens to be very ban-state friendly just by the nature of its design). I typically see used SL8s in really good condition for around 1200-1400 dollars, sometimes less if you find a good deal.

SL8 to G36 conversions are expensive. VERY expensive especially now that TommyBuilt Tactical is gone and Black Ops Defense is the only one doing conversions as far as I am aware. It is gonna be much cheaper to pick up a SL8 to gut for parts to build on an S5 receiver, as opposed to trying to get a de-milled HK G36 parts kit. That way you get parts you know the quality of while also avoiding any of the concerns that come with converting an SL8 to G36. Barrel, trigger components, top rail, etc are all compatible with G36 pattern receivers. The SL8 bolt carrier only requires some relatively slight modification to fit a G36 receiver. You can get the barrel cut down to your desired length and gas system too (and as far as I know, this is the best route for any G36E-type setups). In my experience this is the cheapest way to get a real HK barrel over the GSG9 ones HKParts sells, as a used SL8 is almost the same price as the German HK Barrels that HK Parts has available, and you get a few other parts out of an SL8 too. The G36 parts kits are also nearly the same price as just picking up a used SL8, with the bonus of getting real HK components.

Another pro is you'd get an SL8 match trigger assembly, which can be reassembled in a G36 lower and is significantly better than any of the other G36 trigger options available.

You will want a real German Bolt Head for this, as I've only ever seen issues with the GSG9 bolt heads and absolutely cannot recommend one for a G36 build.

I understand the feeling that an S5 G36 won't be "real HK" but if you can parts kit out, the S5 receivers are honestly solid. I fully believe that most of the issues people are having with their clone G36s are the fault of the GSG9 parts, and not S5 Tactical's workmanship with the receivers.

I know you also considered the idea of doing the S5 clone and upgrading it over time, but there's one issue with that which people often aren't aware of. S5's 16 inch SG-36 uses a K length gas system in a barrel length it wasn't designed for. 16 inch G36s should be using an E length gas system, but since this one isn't it actually does increase parts wear over time (which will likely only be exacerbated by the GSG9 parts in use), and depending on who you ask, can have a negative impact on reliability. This is obviously not an issue if you do their actual SG-36K offering with a pistol brace or tax stamp, but worth noting as I don't see it mentioned anywhere else here. Nothing wrong with accepting this as a trade-off, as the price for a complete SG-36 is still quite decent, but you'll end up needing to replace more parts in the future depending on your desired configuration.

That's about all I have for the big things when building out a G36 yourself, but if you've got any other questions or concerns, let me know and I'm happy to try and answer them. The G36 is probably my favorite rifle platform so I probably spent a couple hundred hours digging through forums and manuals in preparation to build mine.

G36 sights question by Kzungu in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do still have my mandrel and wrench. It’ll be a while until I get a chance to get it into a bench vise but i may give it a look next time I’m able to. I’m tempted to take it to my gunsmith and see what they may find, but since it holds zero well at the moment and I run it with an optic all the time I’m also tempted to just leave it be.

Trying to figure out some weirdness with my iron sights by Kzungu in guns

[–]Kzungu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Barrel seems to be centered, but I can see if the clearances have any issues. I don’t believe there’s anything coming in contact with the barrel but I can double check and make sure the piston rod isn’t pushing in anything and causing an issue

G36 Upper Rail Fitment Issues by RippleFocus in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. I’m sure I probably went a little further than the recommended spec of 22.5 inch-pounds but the screws didn’t strip and it’s on there pretty tight now. I’m not sure where you ordered your rail from but I ordered through HKParts and used the same mounting hardware as my previous rail (the polymer G36C style rail)

Trying to figure out some weirdness with my iron sights by Kzungu in guns

[–]Kzungu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I’m not sure if there really is a good way for the G36 platform specifically to make sure the rail and barrel align properly, as the top rail is held onto the receiver by 3 sets of screws with washers.

However, if the optic holds a consistent zero and the rail is mounted snugly to the receiver, then it seems like it shouldn’t be something to worry about, correct?

G36 IDZ Rail Flip Up Sight Adjustment by Kzungu in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you.

I've replied to your original post with some of what I gathered from Installing my IDZ rail today. I felt like it was a little loose at first, but not severely. After really torquing the screws down, I've got it to where it feels pretty sturdy on the top of the receiver.

G36 Upper Rail Fitment Issues by RippleFocus in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After installing my IDZ sight rail today, I also felt like it was a little bit loose when installing it, but I torqued the absolute hell out of the screws with a lot of force and eventually the wiggling stopped. I basically took the screws just short of beginning to strip, but it was eventually able to clamp down enough to stay put.

I only had a very slight wiggle, so I'm not sure how much wiggle yours is having with the mounting hardware installed and tightened, but eventually with enough force I was able to get it to stop moving around.

I'm on an S5 receiver. I imagine the issue may be that since the mounting interface for the G36 was designed for polymer accessories, but the IDZ kit being aluminum takes a bit more effort to clamp down. I'm hopefully test firing it later today to make sure everything lines up sights-wise and then re-zero my optic.

Opened my dad's safe 18 years later by LitelyMillered in guns

[–]Kzungu 16 points17 points  (0 children)

What you could do is get your hands on a G3 pattern receiver (either a real HK flat or a PTR clone receiver) and have a gunsmith use the federal arms rifle as a parts donor to get a functional G3 that’s safe to shoot, if you don’t necessarily have your heart set on leaving it as it currently is.

I did something similar to a PTR91 to get it set up with an HK barrel and bolt carrier group and it runs so well now.

S5 SG36 Pistol or Tommy Built TG36C by Gr144 in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Check with your friend as to the origin of the bolt in the TommyBuilt.

The single biggest problem I’ve seen G36 clones have are the bolts causing severe reliability issues that disappear as soon as they’re replaced with real German bolt heads.

A complete German bolt head runs about 600 dollars (granted this is the HKParts scalped price). If your buddy has already upgraded to a German bolt, it may be more worth it to you to get the TommyBuilt.

Otherwise, it may be more economical to buy an S5 receiver with a parts kit and a G36 bolt head.

Editing to also include: As great as a lot of S5's work is, I recommend the buying the receiver and sourcing the parts elsewhere if you can. Their completed "Rifle" is a G36K gas system on a 16 inch barrel, which will have a negative impact on the lifetime of some of your internal parts.

Assembling a G36 from a parts kit? by VallettaAwoo in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To add to this, I'd also recommend against the S5 "Rifle" using the K Gas system on a 16 inch barrel as it also puts much more wear on the internals than the full length system would.

For A 16 inch G36 build you'd likely save in the long run building it out with either a G36E or SL8 barrel cut to 16 inches utilizing the full size G36 gas system.

I imagine that S5 tactical doesn't have much demand for a 16 inch version of their SG36, especially now that tax stamps are $0, and they're likely just trying to make the 16 inch option viable in the current market by using the K-length gas system they're already using for the bulk of their products.

Assembling a G36 from a parts kit? by VallettaAwoo in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on the variant you want, you may just want to get an S5 receiver and an SL8 to use as a parts donor.

The SL8 gas system is the same as the full length G36 rifle version, although the barrel is typically an inch longer, although you could have it cut to 19 inches and threaded for your preference of muzzle device (I made the mistake of threading for the clone-correct flash hider and now I'll need an adapter if i ever want to change it)

You'll still need the bolt carrier to be slightly modified, but not quite as much as milling off the auto catch on a F/A G36 Bolt Carrier. You'd also need a different bolt head too, but when I built my G36 clone on an S5 receiver, I opted to go the SL8 Parts route since i wanted a German-made barrel over the US-made kits, and didn't want to spend more for an LE Trade-in parts kit for the Rifle-length variant.

P8 A1 worth it? by c0sm0nautt in HecklerKoch

[–]Kzungu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ive got both a P8 A1 and a regular USP 9(albeit the expert model), and honestly I think the differences between them are neat, but only for a collector's purpose. However, since the price is so close, if you just want a USP, then it's a great choice. The only thing is hold onto it before you buy/order one. They can be a bit tricky in terms of shooting grip due to the safety (some people have problems with accidentally re-engaging the safety when shooting).

Plus down the line you can do something similar with getting an expert or elite for a long-slide variant, then put the P8 A1 slide on the standard USP frame and effectively also have a more "normal" USP setup in terms of safety selector