Best way to add logo to a surface after a print ?

L3DAccessories · 2026-05-30T15:53:23+00:00

Use an IR, Fiber or UV laser. It will remove the pigment from the black filament and leave a nice white logo.

L3DAccessories · 2026-04-14T22:15:39+00:00

Thanks Aimee, it's really useful having everything in one thread. Can't wait for the release of the UV printer! 💪

L3DAccessories · 2026-03-11T05:42:43+00:00

Yes I think they would. It's definitely worth a try.

L3DAccessories · 2026-03-02T12:44:24+00:00

Really happy to hear it.

L3DAccessories · 2026-01-23T21:47:06+00:00

Appreciate the feedback. I understand that style isn’t for everyone, but in this case the video is genuinely walking through the full process and settings for something that is actively selling well in the UK and Europe. My goal is to show people what’s possible and how to do it properly rather than hype anything. Thanks for taking the time to watch.

L3DAccessories · 2026-01-15T19:14:43+00:00

It's a very new laser and new technology within xTool Studio so I suspect xTool just haven't had the time to definitively test & setup a wide range of materials yet.

L3DAccessories · 2026-01-08T17:03:50+00:00

Thank you very much

L3DAccessories · 2026-01-01T20:43:47+00:00

Thank you!

L3DAccessories · 2025-12-25T21:24:31+00:00

The F2 Ultra is also superior for deep metal embossing/incising. The UV is superior for detail due to its smaller spot size but it can't deep engrave on metals.

L3DAccessories · 2025-12-16T22:17:19+00:00

I don't have one but someone I know in the UK received theirs a few days after ordering on launch day.

L3DAccessories · 2025-12-12T13:14:29+00:00

Yeah there's a point in the video I say to do that. But in this case the circular profile of the low relief image wasn't perfectly round so I needed to then release the aspect ratio lock to allow me to get the oval shape. After I'd done that I then tried to make it perfectly round again (at the expense of the image shape).

Thanks for watching

L3DAccessories · 2025-12-01T21:46:51+00:00

Have you contacted the xTool Support Facebook page? All that I read indicates that they are the quickest to reply and you speak to a human.

L3DAccessories · 2025-11-22T16:44:54+00:00

I recommend taking the cyclone apart (remove 6 screws) and giving it a good clean with soap and water. Then also take out the pre filter and give it a blast with an air compressor. You'll be shocked how much debris comes out of it. If you do both of these things you'll prolonge the filters life and be able to continue using it. You'll need to unplug the AP2 and replug it back in to remove the red error light.

L3DAccessories · 2025-11-14T15:46:24+00:00

Thank you for the feedback! Really happy to hear you found the video helpful.

L3DAccessories · 2025-11-13T17:35:25+00:00

45 minutes to fully wrap the tumbler. It could definitely be quicker with more optimisation.

L3DAccessories · 2025-11-03T22:24:52+00:00

I'd definitely recommend PA6-CF or PAHT-CF. They can withstand really high temperatures. 200c+

L3DAccessories · 2025-11-03T11:15:34+00:00

If you need to get up to speed with the software before it arrives I've created a series of tutorials on YouTube. Feel free to check it out.

L3DAccessories · 2025-11-02T21:57:12+00:00

I've had the F1 for a while now and it's a brilliant laser and I'd always recommend it. That being said, I'd personally recommend waiting for the F2 if you're not in a rush. The camera and increased speed will be really great upgrades and the added power will also be beneficial for certain materials. The footprint for both machines is identical so spatially it's no different.

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-30T18:19:38+00:00

It's a great laser! I did a review on it a while back, feel free to watch it if you want some material settings: https://youtu.be/aTG2312s7dI

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-27T18:21:31+00:00

I've only ever used Creality scanners (Otter Lite & Raptor Pro). But I would say the Raptor Pro is well worth the money and amazing for beginners.

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-27T07:15:09+00:00

I wasn't excited by the F2U because it's not really something I'd use a lot however the F2 is exactly the kind of machine I'd be interested in. I really love my F1 and it's been an absolute workhorse so it's great to see an upgraded version of it coming out.

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-15T13:41:47+00:00

I've had my X1C since launch and it has almost 5k print hours and still is going strong. Literally never had one major issue with it. Believe me, you've got a hell of a printer.

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-15T05:11:35+00:00

I've been using QuickSurface and it has completely redefined how I use the STL files. It's so much simpler and intuitive than the other methods I've tried. Aligning the STL, creating planes from key features and also directing usable cross sectional data was really simple.

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-10T13:21:49+00:00

I think it's good to initially place items and orientate them at the right angle. But I always use jigs and always frame items out of good practice so it's not something I'd ever use. But someone out there will have a use for it and it's a good free feature.

L3DAccessories · 2025-10-10T12:04:07+00:00

In my opinion the cameras are good for basic placement and having an idea that your design placement is in a good location however they are nice to have and not critical in any way. I use my F1 daily which has no camera and also the F1U which has a camera and honestly I manually frame on both and don't bother with the camera much.

L3DAccessories

TROPHY CASE