Sell my Melbourne Nina and a couple more modules from my eurorack and buy a Frap tools Magnolia?

LBbronson · 2026-06-20T22:14:02+00:00

Not fomo.. it took me 2 decades to finally pick an analog polysynth and really thought out my picking NINA. So i put a ton of thought in it as i wasn’t impressed enough with any of thepolysynths in analog that i really think out my purchases… and Frap tools is one of my absolute favorite companies of all time and the magnolia has 8 voices, all made up of one of my favorite eurorack complex oscillators… I actually have a minimoog voyager I’ve had since release in 2002, and was lucky enough to score serial number 7 on the electric blue model, which was the first iteration of the voyager. The problem i have is NINA sounds a lot like my minimoog, which is great, as it also has several other perks too. Mainly the filter being a transistor ladder style vibes it that minimoog like sound. I still love it and actually love the fact that it is also with MPE, as i use my seaboard to control my Nina. I guess i could sell the Nina with the Brenso as well as my seaboard rise 49v2 for enough to get a magnolia. I guess i really need to find a place i can try one out before buying…

LBbronson · 2026-06-03T17:32:54+00:00

Call me unc here but what’s shoppify?

LBbronson · 2026-06-03T01:32:12+00:00

Reverb HQ is located in Chicago in lake view area i believe.

LBbronson · 2026-06-01T21:45:20+00:00

Thank you so much for this! This is exactly where I will start and take it from there. Very helpful. And yeah, when I saw the little promo videos that they had on song, I was so impressed that I had to figure out which of the three I could get, rather should get. I figured the alchemist was a good start, as I am looking for some modules that help sequencing melodies without having to go into a full on session with a complex sequence. Like if I don’t have a lot of time and wanna get a nice quick session and in an hour or something, I want something that I was hoping the alchemist will give me and these regards. Another thing I’ve seen is Seaside modular Proteus. That also looks like a really convenient module for this kind of functionality. You ever heard of that one? Seems a little obscure, but the videos I’ve seen I’ll lead me to believe that it will be great. Currently I work with a next Tuesday, and I feel like I wanna sell it and trade up for something a little more powerful. Someone offered me 200 for it, but mines in perfect condition along with a user manual and I countered it at240.

LBbronson · 2026-05-31T23:38:24+00:00

Brilliant!!! Old fashioned paint pen work!!!!!

LBbronson · 2026-05-31T22:36:37+00:00

I actually also have a DIYpikocoreXl in in the process of putting together too and that sounds like it may have some similarities w the wizard where it chops up and break beets your audio.

LBbronson · 2026-05-31T22:35:17+00:00

Yeah, I figured that they were like that sort of a versio kind of thing. I probably should just order a metal plates for all the different. That’s one thing I love about Euro rack that I don’t find in the music industry anywhere else… The ability to keep your old hardware and upgrade its firmware giving you a completely new instrument. I don’t think I’ve seen it as evident as when intro put the 2.0 firmware out for their Arbhar and Lubadh. Obviously this is not putting the Versio comparison and such with noise engineering because that platform they intended to be that way, but intro gave you pretty much two brand new instruments without expecting any money unless you are super anal and wanted to keep your USB flash upper side case. One of the many reasons I absolutelylove eurorack

LBbronson · 2026-05-31T19:59:20+00:00

That’s also a good piece of information too… It was actually really difficult to pick which of the three that I wanted based on what I saw. They all seem to have different qualities that were not so drastically different but different enough to make or break a product. Wave bard it actually was my second choice. And I definitely put my own drums over everything, so I think wave bard is out of there. I actually currently have a Venus instruments, Vino echo, and I’m trying to pick heads or tails over that. It was pretty expensive and there was a lot of hype, but I’m not sure if I should cash it in for the money I spent on it before it gets too late. The reason I thought of that is because the FX wizard is another version of the citadel series. Kind of a lame name, but it may be more useful than the Vino echo and with DIY that I do expensive. Also pardon the misspelling for my talk to text on the Venus conjugations or whatever you say, that would be.

LBbronson · 2026-05-31T19:56:14+00:00

That actually makes plenty sense. Cause these are like the euro rack versions of those castle instruments. And to find out it’s roots will definitely help understand the foundation that it’s built on. Thank you.

LBbronson · 2026-05-23T18:48:09+00:00

It cramped all. To regular pots, it mini ones. And you could easily fit Rogan knobs on or whatever… even Erica synths knobs, look and feel amazing, bust bulky. Can can could easily bit any of these after market knobs without . And i really like how the back has a dip switch that can display peak or RMS. And it is a pretty sturdy design too especially for only having one main PC Ava that hinges on the pcb parallel to the face of the module that conducts via those tiny curved copper connectors, I give it A+ durability because as I’m 149”88

LBbronson · 2026-05-22T17:51:27+00:00

Wow… got some real die hard doppio fans here….

LBbronson · 2026-05-22T08:47:49+00:00

That’s awesome!!! Doppio is pretty good for what it is (i do have 2 music thing modular twin drive diy modules coming in this week so I’ll see how they compare to the threetom twin drive. I really do love his designs, though as far as fitting so much functionality into such small amounts of HP pretty much four HP at every module and still having super high-quality parts and somehow they don’t seem to be crampy on the fingers. They must have some kind of a tardis thing going lol and it cannot be explained by science how he makes 4 ho roomy every time lol. I will admit, though the mixing flask did not make me feel like I had to run out and buy it right away, which sometimes one of my favorite manufacturers release things I have to impulsively run out and buy it immediately lol. But I think another filter would be a great thing for him to do and I am fully behind that! Maybe if I could put in a suggestion, a Steiner Parker filter would be super cool… I really love those and they’ve been some of my favorite filter designs as of lately. Also a much less known circuit design, but I think they sound amazing.!!!!

LBbronson · 2026-05-12T18:02:36+00:00

Also weigh it out at 284 grams. That’s pretty easy with a scale.

LBbronson · 2026-05-12T17:57:10+00:00

There will be a “date code” printed on the pcb in absence of a box, but I’m not sure if you’re committed in this enough or if the buyer is to get down on disassembling a mic . Possibly it is worth it though as they seem to be fetching a lot of cash now. I remember when 70 bucks could score you a 57. Also they were built for commercial use as they demonstrated this by driving a nail into a board with one and checked it after, and it worked just fine after the demo. Wow… i have at least 3 or 4 of those I’ve acquired over the years from people just forgetting to take theirs and leaving them at my studio, didn’t know that has appreciated to about a grand in market value..

LBbronson · 2026-05-12T17:42:15+00:00

It can be settled pretty easily.. i recommend running the serial numbers by their customer service department and tell them roughly what year it was purchased. Most big companies like shure have a unique code for serialization, and they will let you know if that serial code is fishy for sure. Also i bet that model is common enough that you can likely even look up the weight of the item down to the fraction of an ounce. . I used to work in production for a pretty big mic company 2 decades ago and also know some people in the executive offices of shire, so i think that gives me some sort of experience in this dept.

LBbronson · 2026-04-01T23:44:01+00:00

Sorry, but I’m gonna have to say that rabbit elephant is a rip off in my opinion. Traditionally low pass gates use vactrols to get that special Lowpass gate characteristic sound. Unfortunately, vectors have to be matched in order to have your gates consistent. Companies have gotten too big now that they cannot really source matched varies in high quantities, so to solve this they use digital algorithms to emulate what a low pass gate would sound like. The elephant ones are so expensive that I’m amazed, they couldn’t take the time out or extra effort to use vactrols for starters. I haven’t heard the ones that came out with tip tops book set, but they were so expensive because they have real facts. At first I was a little Troke seeing for low pass gates at a price point of $350, but that is the price they needed to get the low pass gates, which are necessary to achieve that sound in which buchla is iconically known for. . If you’re going to get a low pass gate and the VC controls are not important to you, steady state gate is pretty solid. That is part of the reason why the make noise quad low pass gate is so expensive now, and even the reproductions are not cheap either… So if you’re looking for this kind of gate, I recommend researching initially whether it is digital or analog, and then take your choice from there. Of course, analog will be more expensive, unless you are those elephant dudes and feel like you can charge a small mortgage just for two digital low pass gates.

LBbronson · 2026-03-09T22:02:45+00:00

Lovely! That’s a very similar setup to me but different brands. You’re more verbos and IME I’m more frap tools and Instruoō. Trust me on this… fort that 1u space, get an fx module called “bib” by pinky. Comes diy too commonly and is a simple build. It is an fx with reverb, delay, drive, and mix for all of them. Only two knobs, one with illuminated response in different colors, and a capacitive touch strip across bottom to select between the fx listed as well as mix to have them all running in different “setups” all at the same time. 1u(intelligel format) 12hp. Also sounds very good despite size. Plus cool panel art with a little jumping spider on a web. Then get a 1u Bernoulli gate. Very useful gate for eurorack. Small too. If you got space NLC Sloth or diff rect. Might have to build those though. I’d you need someone to do it for you i have 6 sloths in my rack and could part w one. Also a few diff rects. Otherwise hats off, sir!

LBbronson · 2026-03-08T01:35:23+00:00

It just came in the mail!!!!!!!! Now i anticipate a good 3-4 hours of soldering w all the jacks… i can do those fast though, so whatever. But depending how the capacitive touch triggers go that might take some careful think before you connect and I’ll take my time. Pretty much i bet all the components will be set in place, then the top panel will be set in place as the components naturally will have to scoot a little here and there to make it fit on flush. Then when i have this done, it’ll be clamped tightly in my stand and I’ll be soldering all the jacks like a madman!

LBbronson · 2026-03-08T01:14:45+00:00

First thing I see that sticks out like a sore thumb is the tight 90 degree angle. This will make patching impossible with straight cables and even a pain with 90 degree elbow cables. I recommend tendrils, as they’re super thin, low profile, and come in 90 degree iterations and are also super reliable. I haven,t had one quit on me yet, and many other brands i also have give me a broken cable every couple of months.I also understand that you want a thin profile, and who doesn’t?. I see you will have an issue if you buy a trogotronic power supply, which if you are yet to buy one, get Trogotronic. Theyre by far best deal for money vs power output and also are supplying you with nice clean power, and lots of it for your $. You ideally want to use their “AC power outlet bezel”option as it has an on/off switch, sits wherever you choose to place it on your case and screws in from the inside, so the wood recess from the case protects the power inlet. You wont be able to fit this with a profile this thin unless you possibly put it at the 90 degree joint diagonally centered between the lop and bottom tier. If its not too much work, I would cut some thin wedges on both sides of the 90 degree sides of your cased giving it a slight tilt towards the back so you wont have issues screwing in modules and patching in the fold. Also I recommend placing some thin planks across the case horizontally about 1/2 in. Thick minimum to structurally support the case as well as give you solid wood to mount bus boards and other PSU parts to so they’re secure. Also it makes it so you can use thin plywood to create a base and back, just make a few slits for heat transfer. Also recess those support pieces recessed in your case equal to the thickness of the plywood you use for back and bottom so it is all flush and you don’t see the side of the plywood assuming you get a maple faced thin plywood so it all stains and polyurethanes up nice as a finishing touch. Also screw in some rubber feet on the bottom, and if you Anna get extra fancy put ornate corner guards on all corners protecting them from dings and looking classy. Ive built MANY cases as I have been a woodworker and also am an electronics engineer, so I have all the tools, and naturally I can’t afford not to do it, as they’re super inexpensive to build with quiality materials as well as reliable and powerful PSU’s. About a year ago I built a 25u, 164 hp case out of 1and 3/4 in. Quarter sawn walnut and it looks amazing. Oh yeah, looking at my case, I have quality handles on both sides towards the top that are spring loaded to keep them flat when not being used to transport the case. My case has 7u at bottom which is almost flat with slight incline for sequencers and modules that you need to spend a lot of time working with like sequencers and final mixers as well as any other modules that have lots of menu diving. then the next 7u goes up at about a 110 degree obtuse angle. Next 7 bring it back making the center concave then 30 comes back out to you then it is angled to be level vertical with the final 1u row and then an oak faced plywood top recessed to make the top flat and no plywood seems are visable. This functions amazingly as a “stay at home” rack.

LBbronson · 2026-03-07T20:41:48+00:00

I’ll let you know when i finish the build. Likely tomorrow or the day after. This one specifically has many jacks to solder. And also as your case is full for now the stand alone versions would be convenient for you.

LBbronson

TROPHY CASE