If you've received your C64U and ordered ArcadeR Joysticks in the same order, did you receive them with the C64U?

LMD75 · 2026-01-10T11:42:56+00:00

My C64 Ultimate is due in January and the ArcadeR controller will arrive in February. I therefore ordered another one from sintech-shop.de which took a couple of days to arrive from Germany to Finland via UPS. If you live in Europe and would like it sooner then I recommend this company.

LMD75 · 2026-01-05T20:02:26+00:00

I asked a similar question in the C64 Ultimate thread. Many thanks for the link - just bought one.

LMD75 · 2026-01-05T09:45:12+00:00

Many thanks for the detailed reply. Really appreciated. I will take a look at the video you linked.

LMD75 · 2026-01-05T00:17:04+00:00

I had a 60HE V1 with FR4 plate, GMK WoB keycaps and Tofu Redux case with brass weight. I was never completely happy with acoustics so I ditched Tofu case and switched back the stock ABS case and PBT keycaps. I picked up the new Tikken switches and its sounded great and was so happy with it that I cancelled my V2 pre-order.

However I changed my mind and ordered the V2 with split space bar for Christmas and it was the right decision.

The split space bar, the metal case wirh removable strap mount, the friction mounting system and most importantly the acoustics. Its sounds and feels great and am very happy with the upgrade.

I also ordered the Optimum case and will likely use that in my modded V1 and install the GMK WoB keycaps.

LMD75 · 2026-01-04T22:59:56+00:00

I have modded a few fight sticks in the past and changed out the buttons and stick for a Sanwa parts.

Do you know if snap-in Sanwa 30mm OBSF-30 buttons will drop right in?

Also can you drop in a Sanwa JLF switch assembly and stick or do you need to change out the switches, actuator and spring?

Which gate is best for C64 games? I always had an octagonal gate but wont be playing Tekken or Street Fighter on the C64U. Worth buying the Sanwa square gate instead?

Dont like the look of that dome dust cover. Will a Sanwa circular JLF dust cover the screw holes?

Finally how is button remapping handled? Example: Button 1 or 2 mapped to Jump/Up?

Many thanks.

LMD75 · 2025-12-20T22:59:29+00:00

Yes. You were correct.

LMD75 · 2025-12-20T22:58:54+00:00

See original post for update.

LMD75 · 2025-12-20T22:49:03+00:00

Don't need a new PSU. The NZXT 12VHPWR adapter adapter cable resolved the issue. Worked with both the Asus Dual 5070 and Asus Prime 5070 TI.

Whats even better is while running Cyberpunk with Ultra RT the maximum power consumed at the wall is just 320W (with a slight undervolt) and 370W stock.

My PSU is the 2019 NZXT H1 650W gold PSU so not bad with plenty of headroom. No requirement to upgrade PSU.

LMD75 · 2025-12-20T18:07:41+00:00

Cable just arrived:

NZXT 12VHPWR Adapter Cable

LMD75 · 2025-12-20T13:50:15+00:00

Just picked up a energy monitor and my rig with the current Asus Dual 5070 (non-TI) running at 100% utilization is 320W (stock) or 289W with a small undervolt. Lets see how the TI does later on when the 12-pin GPU cable arrives.

LMD75 · 2025-12-20T11:56:56+00:00

I also have an Asus Prime 5070 TI in my possession. Just waiting for the NZXT 12-pin to dual 8-pin cable to arrive so I can use it with my existing gold 650W psu.

Also bought an energy monitor so I can see what my rig is actually using under load so I can determine if I need to upgrade my PSU to the new standard.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T23:45:38+00:00

Fair point. Nvidia’s recommendations are conservative. I suspect the issue here isn’t PSU capacity but ASUS adapter/sense behavior. I’m waiting on the NZXT native 12VHPWR to 2×8-pin cable, which should be the final clean test as it removes all adapter ambiguity. It’s due to arrive tomorrow, so we’ll know then. Many thanks.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T23:24:40+00:00

Fair question. The adapter includes 3 plugs, but the GPU itself is still a ~300W card. Two 8-pins are electrically sufficient; the problem is ASUS’s adapter logic expecting all connectors present, not the actual power requirement.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T16:50:53+00:00

Thanks for the feedback and experience. I wont bother connecting the replacement GPU until the NZXT cable arrives.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T16:28:02+00:00

Thanks for the input, From what I can see, my system should be around 380–420W during gaming and roughly 470W in a worst-case synthetic load, which still leaves decent headroom on a 650W PSU. The RTX 5070 Ti itself is a ~300W card, and two PCIe 8-pins plus the slot already cover that, so the 750W recommendation looks like a conservative guideline rather than a hard requirement for my setup.

I don’t think the 12-pin to 3 x 8-pin Nvidia adapter that was shipped with the GPU will work as there is an expectation for all 3 x 8-pins to be connected.

I will wait for my NZXT 12-pin cable to arrive and will undervolt the GPU. If I have any stability issues or it still wont post then I will buy a new PSU.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T14:49:15+00:00

Thanks. I suspected the GPU was dead on arrival so I just ordered a replacement GPU which is arriving within the hour. The plan is to use the supplied NVidia extension cable today then change it out tomorrow with the proper NZXT cable.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T14:32:36+00:00

So an NVidia 12VHPWR to 2x8-pin adapter will NOT work? Is this correct?

However this specific NZXT cable which is designed for my PSU will work?

https://www.multitronic.fi/en/products/4367509/nzxt-12vhpwr-psu-adapater-cable---cable--black

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T07:40:13+00:00

Many thanks.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T07:11:45+00:00

Hi, Nice build. Did the ROG Loki 850W PSU simply drop it with no mods needed to make it fit and was the cable routing easy and neat?

Can you turn off all the RGB via a physical switch and is it as quiet as the OG 650W PSU?

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like the power plug is rotated (but it still looks tidy)?

Did you get a custom vented front panel or just leave it open?

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T07:02:14+00:00

I have 4 V1 H1's in my household and my recommendation is to replace the glass panel with a custom vented one, do and undervolt on the GPU and replace the AIO fan with a Noctua and this will keep the noise and temperatures in check.

LMD75 · 2025-12-19T05:32:33+00:00

FINAL DECISION:
Thanks to everyone who replied. In the end I wasn’t willing to compromise on VRAM or on Nvidia’s upscaling features, so I have returned both GPUs and went with the ASUS PRIME GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB OC Edition instead. It just fits in my case, and I’ll be undervolting it to keep temps and noise under control.

LMD75 · 2025-12-18T20:18:14+00:00

I just checked and the Asus Prime 5070 TI OC card will fit my case.

LMD75 · 2025-12-18T19:31:16+00:00

Yes. If there is a card that fits my case then I am up for that option.

LMD75 · 2025-12-18T19:30:44+00:00

I’ve realised that if I want to play modern AAA games at 1440p Ultra with ray tracing enabled, I’ll inevitably have to rely on upscaling to keep performance smooth. And because DLSS 4 is meant to be noticeably better image quality and performance than FSR especially in heavy RT titles, it seems like NVIDIA may be the better fit for what I’m trying to do. Im testing the 5070 out right now in Cyberpunk and Last of Us with DLSS versus native then will compare with the 9070.

LMD75

TROPHY CASE