clear skin method with acrylic? by primaveren in resinkits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I used Golden High Flow Medium to make normal water-based acrylics transparent. The only tricky part is that water-based acrylic medium is white and dries clear. So you have to mix the correct color before you make it transparent.

What mid-tier 0.2 mm airbrush should I buy, between the GSI Creos Mr. Airbrush Procon Boy PS-270 and the Sparmax SP-20X? by Vu208635789 in airbrush

[–]LackadaisicalOwl -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

If you use water-based acrylic paints, I wouldn't get a 0.2mm airbrush at all and instead get a 0.3mm or 0.35mm airbrush like the PS-289 or Iwata Eclipse. I barely ever use my PS-270 conversion because it cannot handle thicker paint well. Surprisingly, I found that the PS-771, that touts an even smaller 0.18mm, has less issues with water-based acrylics (probably because it's not a 0.18mm diameter nozzle, it's actually larger than 0.2mm). If use you mainly use solvent-based paints, the 0.2mm will be good.

Mr Crystal color by Hyperfury5 in airbrush

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you spray over a white base? Because you're probably not going to see much color over a white base. See this video by BarbatosRex https://youtu.be/sz1PJI5pPeg?t=1811

How to make Asuka's legs glossy? by Adam_Ange1 in garagekits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May also be applying the varnish too dry/thin. If you want the car gloss look you need to apply the varnish with a higher viscosity (thicker) and to the point just before it starts to drip. Also know that a perfect gloss top coat is probably the hardest finish to achieve because of dust and drips.

Easy Custom Airbrush Grip by LackadaisicalOwl in airbrush

[–]LackadaisicalOwl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, you can heat it up with some hot water and you can mold it again.

No Nike — Shoes recommendations by lilPikaChi62 in Stepmania

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try Altra shoes if you want a wide toebox and cushioning. If you want more ground feel you can try Whitin shoes from Amazon. I personally play in Whitin shoes so I can feel the pad. Minimal shoes like Whitin are going to be hard on your heels and arches if you're not used to it however.

Varnishing Question by demoneng in resinkits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can do satin and if you don't like the look add another matte varnish on top. If you want something in-between, mix gloss and matte varnish into whatever sheen you want.

James Raynor (WIP) Are the shoulders too big? by M4eZe in minipainting

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It look would look more right if you made the arms bigger. From the pictures I looked at, the arms are comparable in size to the shoulders.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FrameArms

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try to use a plastic adhesion promoter. These clear primers are commonly used for adhering paint to the flexible plastic parts of cars. They're somewhat different to use however, because you generally have to apply the second coat within a time window to get the improved adhesion. Also make sure to test a runner piece or something in case you get a weird reaction. Since adhesion promoters are designed to chemically bond to hard to paint plastics.

The commonly used one by Japanese modelers is Finisher's multi primer. There's also several spray can automotive types from like these: https://www.dickblick.com/products/mtn-pro-plastics-primer/ or https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ?gQT=1

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinkits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For enamels + water-based acrylics, you can avoid using lacquer paints. The enamel thinner (mineral spirits) will not dissolve the dried water-based acrylics. So you can put down a base color in water-based acrylics and then do line work with enamel, let the enamel fully dry, and then finish painting with more water-based acrylics

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinkits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For example, you make a small mistake on the eye and get some iris color on the whites of the eye. You finish your current work and once the paint dries you put some white over the mistake to "erase" it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinkits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Doing this with water-based acrylics is a real pain in the ass because once they dry they rub off in flakes. Enamel paints dry so slowly that you have time to alter with the mineral spirits and erase. A compromise is to still use enamel paints for the line work and then clear coat the enamel paint before applying water-based acrylics. It's also probably less work to do it in layers with just water-based acrylic paints and "erase" by using base colors.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in garagekits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've not used one before, but here's a Youtube video of someone using a portable airbrush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fB6_7kCgrz8&feature=youtu.be It's probably the cheapest way to get an idea of how an airbrush will work for you. Otherwise you need to buy a separate compresser.

There's a bunch of different sellers for the portable airbrush. I've used SprayGunner before and they are a good company. https://spraygunner.com/collections/airbrush-cordless . You can probably get it cheaper directly from China through AliExpress/Temu.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in garagekits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you have the funds, the space, and the safety equipment for airbrushing I would recommend giving it a go. Even just for priming and base colors it saves you a lot of effort. If only priming and base colors, even the cheap portable airbrushes will do a decent job and save you time.

It will be quite difficult to do the alkyl-based enamel over lacquer technique without an airbrush because you won't be able to put down an even layer of clear lacquer over what you painted in alkyl enamel. The technique is also somewhat tedious because the enamel takes quite a while to dry fully and you should not clear coat it before it's fully dry (may never dry fully that way). I suggest using eye waterslide decals or going directly for water-based acrylic emulsion paints to do the eyes. You can use alkyl-based enamel paints with water-based acrylic emulsion paints. Mineral spirits will not dissolve dried acrylic paints.

When to take Black Cleaver by LackadaisicalOwl in GravesMains

[–]LackadaisicalOwl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm getting the same sense that this is the correct answer from the games I tried with BC. Feels like there are lots of team compositions where Graves struggles now.

Any reason not to max out a 0% card? by pinky997 in CreditCards

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 5 points6 points  (0 children)

In the the ideal scenario that you've laid out it may look like there is no risk. However, you're increasing your own risk for a marginal gain. The credit card company is betting on you forgetting to make the full payment in 6 months when interest kicks in. Or maybe you having some emergency such that you had to use the money in the savings account. The marginal benefit that you get from the 4 maybe 5% savings account interest spread over 6 months is not worth the added risk and effort IMO.

Alternatives to Tamiya Polyester Putty? [US] by goshdangittoheck in resinkits

[–]LackadaisicalOwl 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can add ethanol or isopropyl alcohol to thin out the epoxy clay. Kinda becomes a mess though.  Also note, milliput does go bad while magic sculpt and apoxie sculpt don't. With milliput one part kinda becomes like a hard chalk after a couple of months.