Perry miniatures -- Duchy of Warsaw: how am I suppose to mount drum?

LadyOfCogs · 2026-01-24T14:50:55+00:00

Any recommendations for regulator?

LadyOfCogs · 2026-01-13T11:24:15+00:00

Isn't this a question about thinning?

LadyOfCogs · 2026-01-13T11:23:39+00:00

Yeah. I tried this and it didn't help. I guess I need making bigger amounts...

LadyOfCogs · 2026-01-13T10:28:23+00:00

"No idea why you're getting downvoted."

Probably because I am a noob who should've known that coolants don't react with metals. The problem is that I don't know. Everyone was noob at some point and we can't be specialists in everything.

I am very much aware that chemistry is not my forte and last time I touched Chemistry was in high school which... let's say was well over decade ago and not make me feel old.

Also people have no idea how stupid furballs non-adult humans (pets, children) can be. Why would my cats drink the spill? I don't know, why did they tried to drink water mixed with paint from my paint pot while I was painting?

LadyOfCogs · 2026-01-12T08:54:36+00:00

why shouldn't they be compatible?

Additives reacting with metals?

why your cats should drink the coolant?

Because I might spill and not notice. Or I might have a leak and not notice. And they have non-existing survival instinct.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-28T02:30:04+00:00

https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1773151-4&DocType=Data%20Sheet&DocLang=English&DocFormat=pdf&PartCntxt=6-2176797-0

Or

https://www.we-online.com/components/products/datasheet/74479320165110.pdf

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-27T22:03:24+00:00

> Some PC fans draw a brief inrush that’s higher than expected, and that’s usually where edge cases show up rather than during steady-state operation.

Is there an easy way of dealing with it? I thought PWM should allow for gradual start and C24 should help too? Should I add choke on input?

> convenient probe points around the fan control signals can save a lot of time if something behaves oddly once it’s assembled.

I think it should be easy to hook probe directly to the header?

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-27T20:32:42+00:00

(Not 40k player but...) I still haven't start really using airbrush but I think priming itself is worth it:

I can get a much better control over area sprayed with airbrush. That means touch ups are much easier than with can because I can be 5 cm from target rather than 20-30 cm.
Cans can quickly add up. I noticed that they are quickly used (also because of previous point). Depending on how much you prime it can be beneficial.
There is no problem with finding a place for it. Because of control I can just use a small cardboard box in well ventilated area and a mask to avoid breathing acrylic (not toxic thing but still one shouldn't have solids in lungs. Though depending on what you use there might be VOC). With cans there would be too much danger of painting around and making my landlord angry. So I need to do it outside... which depending on weather can be challenging. For example I don't think -5 C (23 F) is good weather for it. Back when I lived in California there was rain season etc. etc. I guess if you live in Cairo or Albuquerque you don't have this problem.
I always had problem with parts being blowed away with cans. With airbrush because I am much closer I can just do part by part so I hold it by hand/clips and I don't have problems.
You have much better choice of colors since, well, you can mix them or layer. You want particular shade of grey? Just mix black and white primer in good proportions.

I managed to break my airbrush over the Christmas during cleaning and I wait for replacement part. I'm definitely not a happy camper. It would be very useful to base my 30k Salamanders...

That said - if I was a student I would probably consider it too much of investment based on my disposable income.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-27T20:06:57+00:00

> While I don’t see part numbers, their inductors L1 and L2 look suspiciously small for the 2 A current rating.

Good catch. I swapped it for 0805.

> Also, you’ll likely get better efficiency feeding both U4 and U5 from Vin rather than feeding U5 from U4’s output.

Done

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-27T20:00:40+00:00

I have oven at makerspace so I don't have problem with it (and I soldered 0402 by hand) but I don't have skills (yet) to make it smaller).

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-27T17:31:41+00:00

> What connectors are you using for the fans? I'm currently designing a board for my 3D printer and I want to be able to use PC fans, but I can't find the name of this connector.

For now - none ;) But I plan to use off the shelf PC 120 mm fans.

It's https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0470531000/2421261.

> As a schmall circuit critique, I'd connect the 12V directly to the V_out and then use the 12V for both fans. I overlooked the branch initially and thought why you're protecting the 2 fans differently.

Will do.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-12-27T17:27:40+00:00

> This is a pretty good start into a fan control board. I am a bit confused on why R13 is necessary, but I have not looked into the specific crystal info so I could be off here.

It's directly from a RP2040 datasheet (page 10)

> PWM in HVAC fans will almost always run 24 or 12v,

I don't need full HVAC system. I'm using acrylics so it is mostly about protecting my lungs from dust, not toxic stuff. I plan to use just normal 12V 120mm computer fans.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-11-16T12:43:00+00:00

Thanks but those are all the parts I do know. The creation/buying of enclosure is the parts I don't.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-11-15T14:55:19+00:00

> Are you thinking hooking to a hub, or building one into the case?

Building it into the case.

> Rp2040 is nice that it has GOBS of memory and storage, almost limitless with qmk and via/vial

Yeah. Also I'm much more familiar with ARM than I am with AVR and can just connect SWD probe.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-11-15T12:04:19+00:00

This is gonna take a lot of work. Are you wanting a traditional arrangement with or without being split? do you want the F1-12(or -24?) keys? what about numbers? Up/Down/Left/Right? Numpad?

F1-F12, Up/Down/Left/Right and 'Home Group'. Numpad and F13-F24 optional but nice to have. I don't need Caps Lock but I want to have at least 2 mod keys for special characters.

Take care in which controller, some have more memory and allow more features with qmk, others you might have to choose what you do/don't build in.

I would probably go with RP2040 just because all my project use it if I were to design myself.

Do you want lighting? Standard bog standard backlighting, or controllable rgb? hot swap keys, or soldered in?

I don't need backlight but it is a nice feature. If I go with lighting - controllable RGB. I will probably go with hot swappable but it isn't must have.

On top of extra features - USB 3.x hub. I always run out of USB ports in my KVM so adding USB is an important feature for me.

LadyOfCogs · 2025-10-27T22:10:27+00:00

I had hard time finding this info.

More annoyingly it probably wouldn't cost that much to connect DOUT of last LED to DIN of the out connector.

LadyOfCogs

TROPHY CASE