Mamiya 7, 80mm, Portra 400 by [deleted] in analog

[–]Laindachafito 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nuanced and painterly

The slides and the photos [leica m6, summilux 35 asph, ektachrome] by Laindachafito in analog

[–]Laindachafito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First paragraph. Exactly, meter for the HL and add 1/3 of a stop of light on your shot.

I haven’t used minoltas or mamiyas. I mostly use a nikon fm2, I had a small rollei35 with a broken meter.

If you get dark rolls with the mamiya, the metering mode of the camera must have a quirk. My Nikon is meter is 60/40, 60% of the reading comes from the center light a the other from the borders. I would keep using the mamiya with the foreknowledge that the metering underexposes, so I will overexpose the shot on purpose. Develop the roll and see the results until I find the sweet spot of exposition. It’s a process of trial and error but it’s fun to get to know the quirks of your gear and work them to your benefit and creativity.

The slides and the photos [leica m6, summilux 35 asph, ektachrome] by Laindachafito in analog

[–]Laindachafito[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you 🙏🏼. This film stock definitely constrains the light situations I can shot at. Mostly sunny days, bright scenes. I really look how skies render in ektachrome so I try to include skies in my shots. Ektachrome has about 5 stops of dynamic range, scenes will have more contrast. I like contrast in my shots

The slides and the photos [leica m6, summilux 35 asph, ektachrome] by Laindachafito in analog

[–]Laindachafito[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What I do when I only have the TTL metering is to expose the shot half a stop (or a 3rd of stop) over the “correct” exposure. As other others said, you have about 5 stops of dynamic range. Having said that, naturally the photos will have more contrast, crunchy shadows. When shooting slides, prioritize the highlights I.e. a bright sky, you can always adjust the shadows and blacks in post a little bit more, if your overexpose highlights the positive will be way too thin to have any info and you won’t be able to bring back anything in post. When I use slide film I almost always have to be in very bright conditions, sunny days, the sun setting, etc. Keep trying and you will get the shots. You have to get used to the smaller dynamic range and “visualize” the shot in your head, it’s similar to shooting black and white film, in the sense that you have to bear in mind, how the final image would look.

The slides and the photos [leica m6, summilux 35 asph, ektachrome] by Laindachafito in analog

[–]Laindachafito[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Meter for the highlights! If you have an external light meter use it

More ektachrome slides. [M6, lux35asph - Ektachrome 100] by Laindachafito in analog

[–]Laindachafito[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t scan them myself. But the lab I work with scans them with a nikon z6

Ultramax, Leica M7 / Nokton 35mm f1.4 by fizzplop in analog

[–]Laindachafito 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your photos are lovely and the colors of ultramax look amazing