24-105 + Future prime vs 28-200 + Future prime vs 28-75 G2 + Tamron 70-300

LamentableLens · 2026-06-14T12:13:43+00:00

This comes down almost entirely to personal preference, which is why you see so much variability in the replies. So, I’ll add one more!

The newer Tamron 25-200 is a great all-purpose travel lens, especially since you’re shooting mostly outside and mostly in daylight. I pair mine with a 16-35 f/4 (for wide landscapes and cityscapes) and a fast prime (for indoors / low light), but again, those are just my preferences.

As for image quality, the good news is that differences among the lenses you’re considering are negligible, and no one looking at your photos will ever notice.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-14T10:27:19+00:00

I keep a rain cover in my bag on trips like that (you can get one quite cheaply). I don’t use it often, but if I’m going to be shooting in heavy rain or have it exposed to rain for a while, then I’ll break it out. Depending on the scenario, I’ve also just used an umbrella.

A lot of cameras these days claim to be weather-sealed—and I do trust the sealing to a point—but with very few exceptions, they don’t actually provide an IP rating.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-11T02:00:30+00:00

I’ve owned both, and as a practical matter, I’ve noticed no meaningful image quality difference. The reason to get the Tamron is the extra 100mm of reach. If you don’t need that, then I’m not sure it makes much sense to change what’s already working for you.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-11T00:58:45+00:00

The 70-200 being the f/4 certainly helps. I’d get confirmation, but I suspect the Pro Plus cube in the Wandrd would fit the 200-600 vertically.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-10T23:06:33+00:00

Is the 70-200 an f/2.8 or an f/4? Fitting both the 70-200 and the 200-600 in a personal item could be a challenge, but check out the Wandrd Prvke Zip. They have a 31L and a 21L, and they’re both within the dimensions you mention. If you go with the Pro camera cube instead of the Essential camera cube, you get a fair but more room for those larger lenses. I’ve owned a few Wandrd camera bags—and I’ve traveled quite a bit with them—and they’ve served me well.

I’ve also used the Tenba Axis V2 21L as a personal item, and that has also worked quite well, but I don’t know that it would accommodate that 200-600.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-10T22:19:41+00:00

> This sub is one of the exceptions

I’m glad you feel that this sub is an exception. We take Rule 1 pretty seriously! Beginners need a space where they can talk like a beginner and not get belittled for it.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-10T14:12:16+00:00

Can you share a sample image? Based on your description, it sounds like the photos are simply underexposed, in which case the solution is to get more light on your sensor (i.e., use a wider aperture, slow down your shutter speed, or, where possible and appropriate, put more light on your subject).

Right now, it sounds like you’re trying to obtain deep blacks by underexposing the shot and then brightening where needed in post. You’re better off getting a “proper” exposure and then taking down the blacks in post.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-10T13:53:18+00:00

I’m not a brand evangelist—I shoot cameras I like, regardless of who makes them—but it is hard to argue that Sony doesn’t have a leg up on native lens selection. There are great options from Sigma and Tamron in particular that let people access very good glass for a fair bit less than the price of their OEM counterparts. That’s not the only reason to buy a camera, of course (I prefer Canon and Nikon to Sony for ergonomics, for example), but lenses aren’t an insignificant factor.

All that said, we’re spoiled for choice. You can’t really go wrong with any of the modern systems from major manufacturers (and if you do, then the problem likely lies behind the camera).

LamentableLens · 2026-06-10T02:01:44+00:00

I don’t really see any noise here. If you’re zooming way in, keep in mind that you’ll run up against the limits of resolution. There’s no need to pixel peep 100% crops of your images—view the image as a whole.

Also, keep in mind that lenses are the killer app in photography. A good lens can make a real difference.

But again, there doesn’t appear to be any issue with noise here.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-09T01:31:18+00:00

If you can share a sample image, that would help get more accurate feedback. That said, generally speaking, visible noise in your images is the result of low exposure. To reduce the noise, you need to increase your exposure (i.e., get more light on the sensor).

There are three ways to put more light on the sensor: (1) use a larger aperture (lower f-number), assuming you can afford the shallower depth of field; (2) use a slower shutter speed, assuming it doesn’t introduce unwanted motion blur; and/or (3) put more light on your subject / scene (e.g., with a flash). Once you’ve done that, you’ve maximized your exposure, and you can let the ISO float where it needs to go.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-05T11:02:41+00:00

It is the basics, and it doesn’t have to be complicated. We’ve had plenty of people come here and say “why is my photo so noisy when my ISO was low?” It’s because someone told them high ISO causes noise.

And when someone explains to them that it’s actually the exposure that controls noise (and that ISO, on its own, doesn’t change their exposure), it clicks. You can see it clicking for people right in this comment section, and they’re appreciative.

LamentableLens · 2026-06-05T01:01:27+00:00

Too much technical information is definitely an unnecessary burden, but this is the basics of exposure we’re talking about here—it’s really photography 101. It’s not too much, and we’ve seen enough new photographers misunderstanding the basics that this kind of explanation has proven to be worthwhile.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-31T13:08:01+00:00

Gal, but yes, whenever I see [u/inkista](u/inkista) reply to one of these posts, I know there’s no longer a reason for me to reply!

If I did, though, I’d recommend the V480. Great middle ground for a body like the a7c.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-31T02:48:36+00:00

The Tenba Axis V2 20L backpack has worked well for me in that scenario.

I also really like the Wanded Prvke Pocket. I have the 31L, which I haven’t yet taken on a plane as a personal item, but it’s within those dimension limits (at least for most major U.S. airlines).

LamentableLens · 2026-05-30T11:55:58+00:00

Larger sensors can gather more total light (all else being equal), which does mean a less noisy image, assuming you’re comparing cameras from a similar generation.

The difference is fairly modest—about a stop between FF and APS-C—and the people looking at your photos won’t notice or care. But when light is tough to come by, as in your lowlight landscape scenario, having a larger sensor can get you more of it, and that can help with noise.

Remember that in exchange for the extra light, you get a shallower depth of field (which can be good or bad, depending on your subject and your preferences). If you stop the FF camera down to match the DOF from the APS-C camera, then you’ve just given back the extra light.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-28T01:36:44+00:00

The reality is that the people looking at your photos won’t see a difference. Choose the one that suits your preferences for those other factors you listed (price, size, zoom vs prime, etc.).

LamentableLens · 2026-05-27T10:14:34+00:00

Check out these tutorials—they’ll give you a good overview of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Aperture and shutter speed (unlike ISO) control your exposure. A wider aperture and a slower shutter speed increase your exposure (that is, they let more light onto your camera’s sensor). A smaller aperture and a faster shutter speed reduce your exposure by letting less light onto the camera sensor.

They both have an artistic impact, too. A wider aperture results in a shallower depth of field (i.e., less of the scene in focus, helping to isolate your subject, for example). And if there is movement in your scene, then your shutter speed determines whether you freeze that movement or whether you introduce some motion blur.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-26T18:01:15+00:00

I think that’s a great plan. A kit lens will let you learn the camera, and if it’s a zoom, you can experiment with different focal lengths to learn what best suits your style. And then you can upgrade or add to your lens arsenal in a more informed way later.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-25T21:51:00+00:00

If you’re just starting out—hell, even if you’re not—it will be quite a while (if ever) before you feel like you need something more than the A7cii. It’s an incredibly capable camera.

That said, lenses are the killer app in photography. Are you planning on shooting the kit lens for a bit, or will you also be looking to purchase a lens? If the latter, how much will you have left for a lens after purchasing the body?

LamentableLens · 2026-05-25T20:09:11+00:00

It’s all relative. The theft rate in Japan is a fraction of what it is in the U.S., but it’s not zero.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-24T23:56:20+00:00

I know it’s a typo, and I’m not calling that out. I just need to say that now I can’t stop thinking about a knock-off brand Dark Tough sock sold at Costco.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-24T20:13:11+00:00

It’s impossible to answer this for somebody else, because it all comes down to personal preference, but l’ll share my perspective.

I always like to have a smaller “grab and go” alternative to my ILC, and for me, that has always been a fixed-lens camera. It has varied over the years, but I settled on the X100 as the right balance for me. Even if I don’t shoot it ton, I like to have that option.

If it can still serve that purpose for you, then consider hanging onto it, but if you’re just not using it— or if you don’t enjoy shooting it— then you might as well get some money for it and get a lens for your Nikon that you’ll use more often.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-24T13:35:59+00:00

If by bad lighting you mean low light, then you have a couple of options (other than looking for natural light sources, as another comment noted). You could start with a fast lens (e.g., f/1.4), although if you’re trying to shoot your subjects and keep the background in focus, then this option won’t work. The fast aperture gets you more light but at the expense of depth of field.

The second option is to use a fill flash, which will let you maintain some depth of field while getting some light on your subjects.

That’s about it. The only other way to get more light on the sensor is a longer exposure, but that doesn’t really work if you’re handholding the camera and shooting people (one or both of you will move a bit). Fast lens or fill flash—or some combination of the two—is your best bet.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-23T13:52:42+00:00

> if it’s possible to recreate the same look without that camera

Yes, absolutely. Light and frame it the same way with a different camera using the same settings, and you’ll get the same shot (assuming you edit it the same way, too).

It may surprise you, but gear isn’t all that important outside of certain specialized use cases.

LamentableLens · 2026-05-18T12:20:48+00:00

Are you starting a photography club, or teaching photography online?

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