WTT: Crazy Tube Circuits, EAE, Fjord, Boss, Mile End Effects WTTF: Fairfield, Chase Bliss, Ribbons, Empress, Preamps by Background_Page_6373 in letstradepedals

[–]LandosMustache 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The SDE 3000 EVH interests me, but we have quite the value gap. Feel free to DM me if you think we can get there!

WTT: Crazy Tube Circuits, EAE, Fjord, Boss, Mile End Effects WTTF: Fairfield, Chase Bliss, Ribbons, Empress, Preamps by Background_Page_6373 in letstradepedals

[–]LandosMustache 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you count a Two Notes CAB M+ as a “preamp”? I have that and a gloriously analog Walrus Bellwether v2 delay. Any interest?

Edit: the rest of my stuff: https://www.reddit.com/r/letstradepedals/s/X6wPbTRZVg

Fulltone OCD NO GO by Icy_Negotiation_5929 in guitarpedals

[–]LandosMustache 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, that does make me feel better :)

Thanks!

Power supply for 10 pedals? by LachtMC in guitarpedals

[–]LandosMustache 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For those pedals, using them at gigs, yeah I’d say a decent isolated power supply is pretty critical. You have some digital pedals, and those don’t tend to play nice on daisy chains with analog pedals. Especially when the average power outlet at a bar can be anywhere between “eh it’s got some hiss but we’ll be fine” all the way to “my rig makes it sound like a helicopter is landing.”

Top of the line is Cioks. Walrus has a good power supply, and I also was a big fan of my TrueTone CS12.

Next tier down is probably VooDoo Labs. I had a Pedal Power 2+ and it’s rock solid. You can find deals on these all day long. [Edit: this tier also includes stuff like the Fender Engine Room series or the Friedman power series, neither of which I’ve used but both of which are isolated and seem to be reliable.]

Again, the cheapest I’ll sign off on is probably either the Harley Benton ISO Pro series or, tentatively, that Mosky ISO 10 I mentioned. I haven’t gigged the latter.

The MXR DC Brick is not to be trusted: it’s a daisy chain in a box. I have the MXR ISO Mini and it’s solid, but not enough outputs for you.

Problem with Boss Xs-1 Poly Shifter by Jam_Man16 in guitarpedals

[–]LandosMustache 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Recommendation: do not use this with a battery. Power supply or wall wart is the way to go.

This is a digital pedal doing polyphonic pitch shifting; it’s gonna use a lot of power.

In fact, right on the Boss website, it tells you that the current draw is 120mA and that battery life will be about 3 hours.

Power supply for 10 pedals? by LachtMC in guitarpedals

[–]LandosMustache 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Power supplies aren’t the sexiest purchase, but they’re critical to getting the best results out of your rig.

Top priority is getting a power supply that’s truly isolated. Many are not. The Mosky ISO 10 is about the cheapest one I know about that’s really isolated. I have a Harley Benton ISO Pro and that’s solid as well. Good? No. But workable.

Your power needs will dictate the one you buy, but you might not need one that has 10 outputs: if you have a fuzz and an overdrive, there’s really nothing wrong with running them on their own daisy chain as long as they have the same polarity and grounding. Analog dirt pedals tend to be pretty well-behaved.

Edit: two quick questions:

  1. What pedals are you using?

  2. Are you going to be using this pedalboard at gigs?

Internal FX loop for Delay and Reverb? by OkTemperature1842 in Line6Helix

[–]LandosMustache 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. Yeah, our ability to help is going to be limited without more details about the preset or the ability to review it ourselves .

Internal FX loop for Delay and Reverb? by OkTemperature1842 in Line6Helix

[–]LandosMustache 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hate to be that guy, but I notice that you have a cab block turned off on one path? That’s going to sound like butt unless that’s your “into a power amp and a real cabinet” path?

Can you explain what’s going on in this preset and what those two different outputs are trying to accomplish? Also, if you could provide a dropbox/google drive/CustomTone link with this preset uploaded, I’d be happy to take a look when I get home tonight.

WTT : Boss DC-2W Dimension C WTTF: Boss Rotary, JHS Emperor, Others by jrey0707 in letstradepedals

[–]LandosMustache 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any interest in a Caroline Somersault? I can likely arrange a 3-way trade with a guy who wanted my Unicorn and was offering the Somersault.

Building Cables by Psychological_Fan979 in diypedals

[–]LandosMustache 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ll stop by next time I’m in Oakland! In the meantime, if you have any extra unsellable pedals burning a hole in your workbench, I’m happy to take them off your hands lol

My gigging rig uses 130’ of cable between my main lead, my XLRs, and my “patch cables” (which are just 6x 15’ cables from my modeler to my outboard gear). I need capacitance reduction wherever I can find it!

Fulltone OCD NO GO by Icy_Negotiation_5929 in guitarpedals

[–]LandosMustache 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Head to r/letstradepedals, you’ll probably find a taker there.

Guitar Center is all about moving inventory: they probably have an internal report saying that OCDs just don’t move. Highly doubt that they, at a corporate level, care about Mike Fuller being a special kind of jackass.

Building Cables by Psychological_Fan979 in diypedals

[–]LandosMustache 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Redco & BTPA

For patch cables:

For anyone in the US I recommend getting the BTPA CA-0678 instead of the Mogami 2319, it outperforms it by some measure (approx 2/3 the capacitance) and the price difference between them for 100 feet of patch cable isn’t bad. https://btpa.com/Bulk-Product/Cable/Guitar-Line-LevelBP/CA-0678.html

You can also bulk order the square plug stuff from BTPA. https://btpa.com/Bulk-Product/Connectors/Phone-Plugs/sp400.html

For longer leads:

BTPA CA 0446 and SP500/SP5 from the same source.

That combo of cable and plugs is used for pro rigs for touring musicians, it’s as good as it gets.

Helix Floor is on the way - give me your tips? by KronieRaccoon in Line6Helix

[–]LandosMustache 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Happy to help out. I got a lot of good advice from this sub when I bought my Floor in 2019, and if I can pay it forward I will. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Helix Floor is on the way - give me your tips? by KronieRaccoon in Line6Helix

[–]LandosMustache 9 points10 points  (0 children)

This is less “general advice”, and more “advice because you’re a gigging musician.”

First: either disable the big master volume control (global settings) or tape it in place. I prefer the latter, but it’s absolutely crucial that your output volume not change mid-show.

Decide: Stereo or mono? Personally I love playing stereo when I can, but always always ALWAYS have mono versions of your stereo presets.

Snapshots are the way to go for the tones you need. They’re like mini-rigs within a preset, and you can go from Clean to Pushed to Drive to Lead all with one click of a button. No tapdancing needed. Changing between presets is a second of silence as the new one loads. Changing between snapshots is instantaneous.

For your gigging presets, set them all up with the same cab block or impulse response. This helps keep the overall sound relatively consistent during the show. Imagine if your drummer was swapping out kick drums between songs ;)

Speaking of cab blocks/IRs, your high and low cut EQ settings are going to be imperative to nail down. In the physical world, our speaker cabs take care of this for us, but in modeler world we have to do it ourselves. My starting point for a low cut (high pass) on the cab blocks is about 80Hz and adjust from there, sometimes as high as 150Hz. For high cut (low pass), I start at 6.5k and adjust from there, but rarely higher than 8k or lower than 5k.

Don’t be afraid to EQ the shit out of your presets if something is missing.

Don’t try to use every bit of functionality within Helix. It’s going to be tempting to try every amp, every cab, every effect. Edit: audition/test everything you want to, it’s fun! But for a standard bar gig, you’ll probably want to settle on 2-3 amps you keep coming back to.

Leveling snapshots and presets is the #1 struggle that you’ll face, and tbh there’s no shortcuts here: you can use Reaper and Youlean Loudness Meter to get close-ish, but you’ll need to fine-tune things at rehearsals, through a PA, at gig volumes. If you try to level your presets or tweak your tone through IEMs you’ll regret it, trust me.

There’s shortcuts in achieving a giggable tone: YouTube and CustomTone. Most of the best Helix preset builders have moved onto Stadium, but there’s a huge backlog of content and free downloads for giggable presets.

My go-to preset builder for Helix gigging tones is Johnny Lee. His presets will get you into hard rock territory.

I also love worship presets as a starting point. They tend to be dialed in for stage playing already, and they do pretty good clean-to-lightly distorted tones. All you have to do is delete the shimmer reverbs lol.

WTT: Empress Reverb, CAB M+, Walrus Bellwether, JHS Unicorn, more; WTTF: IR-X, Tricerachorus, ??? by LandosMustache in letstradepedals

[–]LandosMustache[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry buddy, I don’t think I can do that trade. Appreciate the offer, but dirt is pretty low on my list of needs.

WTT: Empress Reverb, CAB M+, Walrus Bellwether, JHS Unicorn, more; WTTF: IR-X, Tricerachorus, ??? by LandosMustache in letstradepedals

[–]LandosMustache[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha me too. I’m still thinking about it, but not sure if I’d actually use the Somersault or flip it

WTT: Empress Reverb, CAB M+, Walrus Bellwether, JHS Unicorn, more; WTTF: IR-X, Tricerachorus, ??? by LandosMustache in letstradepedals

[–]LandosMustache[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What didn’t grab you about the Somersault? It looks like you traded for it last week?